Rockfax Description
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper section. Pull through a bulge and up the wall with difficulty to a flowstone shelf and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 11/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

guy127917 14/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Jen
Bones [:B 14/Oct/17 TR dog
guy127917 08/Oct/17 Lead dog

One go bolt to bolt and a couple of RP attempts, think I have the beta together now.

with Jen
Bones [:B 08/Oct/17 TR dnf
ArrMcC 06/Aug/17 Lead RP

Came off onsight after the bulge. Easy 1st RP. Very similar to Wolfgang in that it has a terrible crumbly dirty start followed by good quality climbing!

Vince 05/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Pawel
PawelP 05/Aug/17 TR dnf
with Vince
chris_woodsy 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
JPGR 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Aaron.Clifford 16/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Forgot I did this years ago, was like another onsight with flashes of memory coming back to me! Really nice second half with a sandy beach to get through on the first few bolts.

gary9t9 16/Jul/17 Lead
George Killaspy 09/Jul/17 Lead

A (relative) breeze until the overlap, when commitment above the bolt is rewarded

with Dylan
dylan.b 09/Jul/17 2nd
with George
Thinker01 06/May/17 Lead RP

Much better when not trying to use Ralph's beta

artmal 02/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Christa
TomatoPro 24/Mar/17 Lead dog

Steady with hardest move at the top. Really pleased to reach the top on lead. will get fit and finish this!

with Cindy
tommccluskey 09/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Elliot, Pippa Froggatt, Christophe
Pippa 09/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Tom Mc
brian watson 04/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead RP
Alex N-R 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Feels friable, before the rain came in.

with Charlie, will black
Ed.Laver 24/Sep/16 Lead β

Not really worthy of both stars imo. Horrible first half but good and techy after that.

bede.west 24/Sep/16 Lead β

Flashed! (soft?) Broken a hold low down but didn't fall off... felt like a flash because it was. Watched Ed on it first.

Trisha Murphy 14/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Kate
Vince 29/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Chris Nathan / Guy Matmon
JackMac 09/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Onsight attempt, fell at the same place as everyone else!

with Nikki_C
robajob 30/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Kt
RebekkaB 30/Jul/16 TR dnf
with Vince
Ricky Rocks 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/Jul/16 2nd RP
with Phil
afterthesend 02/Jun/16 Lead RP

3Rd pop

with Sam P
samparsons 02/Jun/16 Lead β

Great moves out over the top but the bottom is filthy!

afrosam 19/May/16 Lead RP

retro onsight of sorts (in the rain)

with freya
Linc 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Kay
Albachoss 08/May/16 Lead RP

Amazing moves through the crux and up the headwall

with Ben
nimajneb 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Ranaz 06/May/16 Lead RP
Flavio 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 28/Apr/16 Lead O/S

A hold broke on me low down on easy ground and I came off. Still felt like on sight to me as I pulled straight back on and climbed through the hard part

with Flavio, Ben Philips, Ellie
littleluke 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
rachelvlc 16/Apr/16 Lead
Matt77 09/Apr/16 Lead β

Threw everything at this and it paid off. All the rests come in just the right places.

with Chris Riddett, Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead RP
littleluke 12/Mar/16 Lead RP
rachelvlc 12/Mar/16 Lead dnf
Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/15 TR dog

All going well until the overhang, need a better sequence- remember the gaston into the first big hold above the roof next time...

ThomasB ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Russell Blackaller 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

Fell off going over the roof. Close!

with Climb
Matti Puckridge 30/Aug/15 Lead RP

A little crumbly at the start but climbs much better than it looks.

lewiz 30/Aug/15 Lead β

Had good beta. Soft.

Edward Kwong 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Bottom section very loose. Steady first half to rest point. Crux over the roof requires hands in the correct sequence, nearly blew the on-sight because of this. Holds are very chalked up and much better than expected though, move through confidently. First on-sight 7a+ :D

Aaron.Clifford 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Renna Clifford
BenL 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 10/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
rjf106 ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
Nick Clement 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
Kris suriyo 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really great route

with Gary
Javis 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
TomJ 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 22/Mar/15 Lead RP

1st RP - A good trade route with positive holds most of the way. Low in the grade.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
pezzerrr 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
Julie Carroll 13/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
dan gibson 19/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mandy clement
xiangoh ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt

1st rp

TomJ 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
with TomS
valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
afrosam 25/May/14 Lead dog
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 03/May/14 Lead RP
with Vic Hau
philhaigh 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd RP
philhaigh 15/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mel Dodge
Jay81 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Tomar
Tomar 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Would have been able to flash this if I didn't decide to sketch out at the roof

Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
Tommyads ??/2014 -


sarpedon 07/Dec/13 Lead dog
RFWilkie 21/Sep/13 Lead RP

First Portland 7a+, 2 sessions. Seems fairly soft. Bottom is very friable but good top moves.

Ian Bell 21/Sep/13 TR dog

On someone elses rope. Tough finish through the roof, rest OK ish.

philhaigh 08/Aug/13 2nd RP
tiffanykate12 14/Jun/13 TR dog

Hardest climb I've attempted - worked the moves, just need more fitness to stop and read the route.

maybe_si 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
Jonesy_A 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Chevis
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead β
ASchwirtz 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Russ
EmilyElouise 27/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 30/Jul/12 Lead RP

Fantastic route. 1st RP

with Mike
philhaigh 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
matthewjames 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Great climb. Screwed up the last move of the crux on the first rp. Will be back to do it again!

marcb 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Thought I was doing 'Very Sleepy River', got 75% and was pretty convinced this wasn't 6b, then I fell. Then I tried the top part and was almost certain it wasn't 6b. Lowered to the floor and had a nice shock to find it was 7a+. Went back up and dogged to the top. I think it could go now I got the top sequence figured.

with Sarah Barr, Matt Marshall
richsmithinbristol 23/Jun/12 Lead RP
Evie 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead O/S
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead RP
Dandan82 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
SMc 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead RP
simonr 14/Aug/11 Lead β
jfreeman 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 06/Aug/11 Lead RP

Clean first time after trying it last year, roof felt much easier this time!

with will
wi11 05/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Hold broke

with Nat
La benya 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence
tom106 31/May/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Magnus
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Carlos, Nat
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Bit crumbly low down but nice moves to finish. Rp1.

Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very dusty but easy bottom bit, full rest and then an absolutely wicked bit of climbing through and above the roof! If not for the start it would be 3* no doubt

Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
feilx 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead RP
Jane Weir 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead dog
Jus 19/Sep/09 Lead β
Pete Scott 17/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
schof 02/Aug/09 Lead RP

second go

with joel perry
trev_f 13/Jul/09 Lead β
with Jon
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan Gibson
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 17/Jun/08 Lead β
with Andy Long
eddieclimb ??/2008 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Rebecca Edwards
Martin Krasnansky 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
keefe 17/Sep/06 Lead
with Tansy
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead β
lx ?/Feb/04 Lead


with ros
John Southworth 02/Jun/01 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
13 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set