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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall and first bulge as for Popeye Doyle, then finish on the right of the steepest section of the upper bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Yann Genoux 17/Mar/2007.

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Portland

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User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Dusty crumbly till 2/3 then some cool moves (on glue reinforced holds) probably not 2stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dusty crumbly till 2/3 then some cool moves (on glue reinforced holds) probably not 2stars
Wayne.Gaudin 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Incremental progress today but linkng the crux moves is way off. Simon crushed it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incremental progress today but linkng the crux moves is way off. Simon crushed it!

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coralized

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Cheyne Cliff)

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