Rockfax Description
A fine climb - one of the best on the east coast - that climbs the orange sheet of flowstone which is usually chalked up. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18.7.94 18/Jul/1994

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland.

gem_stone12 28/Oct/17 Lead dog
Wood for Trees 22/Oct/17 Lead dog

Fell on flash at top of groove, few more moves to go after that I would've probably fallen off. Brilliant route, looking forward to the next go.

with Russel , Dougie , Flo Barton
alexspurling 23/Sep/17 Lead dog

Worked the route bolt to bolt but obviously a very nice line. Will need to be a bit stronger to link the moves. Still a bit unsure of the section at half height which requires a big reach to a half-pad crimp rail.

with Aziz
rockafunked 23/Sep/17 TR dnf

Way beyond me (for the moment!)

Qisheng Xie 06/Aug/17 Lead RP

Crimp fest with a tough finish.

Aaron.Clifford 06/Aug/17 Lead RP

dropped last move 3 times then didn't drop it on the 4th, really intuitive flowy route which stays at a similar difficulty from the ground to the chains with little rest, rare!

GrahamGiles 06/Aug/17 Lead dog

Had 4 burns on this but just couldn't link the Crux with the lower half. Pretty much my anti-style being crimpy and sustained. I'm sure it'll go next time though.

Hidden 15/Jul/17 Lead RP
samparsons 09/Jun/17 Lead RP

Finally got it after dropping it past the last bolt 3 times. Started working 2 Jun 2017

Linc 09/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Kay
Linc 02/Apr/17 Lead dog
with Kay
Linc 18/Mar/17 Lead dog

Wet holds again

with Kay
Carnie Lisa 11/Mar/17 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
Linc 11/Mar/17 Lead dog
Hugobristol 22/Jan/17 Lead dog

Got onto the final headwall three times. Never quite managed the job

with Eleanor
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hugobristol 15/Dec/16 Lead dog

Lower section had one or two greasy holds but was otherwise in good nick. Found some much more logical beta! unfortunately the rain cut short our session... new highpoint though.

Hugobristol 11/Dec/16 Lead dog

Didnt think too much of the line/cliff, but the climbing was very nice. A bit too sustained to do this session with some tricky clips. Definitely warrants a return trip- or two!

with Eleanor
Linc 18/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Kay
Hidden 28/Aug/16 TR dog
Sophie Nunn 21/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Brian
brian watson 21/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Dogged to 5th bolt. Top roped twice after, got somewhere near having all the moves done, last move out of groove to left needs refining. F##k my fingers are sore!!

afrosam 18/Aug/16 Lead RP

1st RP. Nice route

anthony henry 13/Aug/16 Lead RP

Best not done in the sun. Great route. Up there with Zinc oxide

with Ali
Hidden 05/Aug/16 Lead dog
anthony henry 01/May/16 Lead dog
with Chris
Garrouli 01/May/16 Lead RP
with Mark
La Mont 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Will
BenL 12/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Andy Lamont, Angus Webb
La Mont 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Ben Lloyd
Ed Babs 10/Mar/16 Lead RP

Quite a few days over 6 years. Such a good route, and a very satisfying tick - I really had to throw one on for the top of the crag.

with Mike Hawkins
AlexD 18/Feb/16 2nd dog
with Ed
LJC 08/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Tried to onsight and then one red point attempt before it got too greasy to climb.

with Phill, George
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Love this route. Defiantly one of my favourites. Nice to do it again. 1st go today.

with Steph
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Oct/14 TR dog
jackgriffiths 17/Aug/14 Lead β

Amazing route. Watched a bunch of other people on it while working illusions. Super psyked to get the flash. I'd say the grade is correct.

EmilyElouise 17/Aug/14 2nd dog
with geoff
ASchwirtz 17/May/14 Lead dog

Very greasy, come back on a cold day!

with Russ
thomb 11/May/14 Lead dog
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 11/May/14 Lead dog

Lead to about two thirds height, but couldn't link together through upper crux sequence. Good, but a little greasy.

Hidden 09/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Mar/14 2nd dog
Daniel 22/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Last climb of the day, but got all moves done. Chuffed.

with Matt Tomlinson
Ed Booth 27/Dec/13 Lead dog

put clips in, and then had a go after but was too cold. go to above the flake again but fell by the next clip. should be fine on a warmer day.

Adam Booth 27/Dec/13 TR dog

Didn't feel too bad except for the sea grease, the high winds, and the nearly sub zero temps! Will try again if I ever get back there.

DDDD 11/Jul/13 Lead dog

Tricky last two clips - had a few RP goes, close - no biscuit.

with Sham
rustyfishhook 10/Jul/13 TR dnf

couldn't complete first move surprise! But was fun to see what its all about. Cheers guys.

minstrel nips,sean 09/Jul/13 TR dnf

Very very hard posun

quiffhanger 26/May/13 Lead RP

Really great sustained climbing. 2nd go. Gutted to drop the on-sight on the final few moves.

with Kate
Hidden 26/May/13 TR dog
givemetea 18/May/13 TR dog

hmmm ... a bit better than last time. I managed to link through the first 3 bolts and consistently do the long move onto the final head wall. Fingers were trashed by the third go!

with Hazel
Kevster 11/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Apr/13 TR dog
Hidden 27/Apr/13 TR dog
3 Names 20/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd red point

with Nick
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
givemetea 18/Apr/13 TR dog
with Vince, Hazel
Hidden 18/Apr/13 TR dog
3 Names 18/Apr/13 TR dog
Ramon Marin 05/Feb/13 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 02/Feb/13 TR dog
brices 02/Feb/13 Lead dog
with Tomar
Hidden 27/Jan/13 TR dog
Jobbo 07/Jan/13 Lead dog
with Alex, Matt Carwardine
Hidden 21/Dec/12 TR dog
Linc 30/Oct/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 30/Oct/12 2nd dog

Ran out of skin - it's sharp!

with Sam Ferguson, Si
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 30/Oct/12 Lead RP

Second go. First go fell at the lower offs nailed it second time. Quality!

Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Sep/12 TR RP
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead RP
Alex More 08/Jul/12 TR dog
with Ed babs
Marti999 22/May/12 Lead dog
with Paul Hayes
Marti999 15/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Rob
Dandan82 19/Feb/12 Lead RP

Cracking route, somehow managed to tick it in 3 goes, a quality stamina test that is getting a bit polished now.

Tom Heslam 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
pezzerrr 12/Jan/12 Lead RP
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Dec/11 Lead dog
Tophe 20/Nov/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Rob Gates, Tom Hobley, Sam Tucker
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 17/Sep/11 2nd dog
Jonathan Emett 14/Sep/11 TR dnf

got frustrated, too hard.

with toby
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead dog
La benya ?/May/11 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 07/Nov/10 Lead RP

great route got to the last hard move on the os then pulled back up the rope and did that move second go

jujuheath 30/Oct/10 Lead rpt

5th go

Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
givemetea 03/Oct/09 TR dog

could do all the moves but could only put two or three together max

Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead dog
steve taylor 27/Jun/09 TR dog
Ed Booth 04/Jun/09 Lead dog

Got to the flake below the roof on the flash and fell off throwing for the first hard move. Dogged to top. Tried a redpoint but fell off trying to get the flake. ooops.

Hidden 31/May/09 Lead rpt
eddieclimb 15/Mar/09 Lead RP

3rd rp

with Rebecca Edwards
feilx 25/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Bob
gazhbo ??/2009 Lead RP
feilx 20/Dec/08 Lead dog
with Heather
dan gibson 16/Oct/08 Lead RP
with richard white
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead RP
trev_f 01/Sep/08 TR dog
sam_cox ?/Sep/08 Lead

Second go!

Richard Horn 27/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead RP
La Mont ??/2008 -
Martin Krasnansky 26/Nov/07 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Jan/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
keefe 16/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 19/Aug/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
_m.cox_ ?/Apr/05 Lead RP
with Chris Davis
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
John Southworth ?/Aug/03 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/98 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set