20m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb - one of the best on the east coast - that climbs the orange sheet of flowstone which is usually chalked up. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jul/1994

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland, Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour.

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UserDateNotes
The Jazz Butcher 9 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Do not agree with you stp. This is a fantastic line with good rock, moves, position, setting etc.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do not agree with you stp. This is a fantastic line with good rock, moves, position, setting etc.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tobydunford 6 Oct Lead RP 3rd go, magical.
with Tomar
3rd go, magical.
with Tomar
mr_cf 5 Oct Lead dnf
rado ?Oct Lead dog
Hidden 28 Sep Lead dog
Hidden 28 Sep Lead dog
Han French 14 Sep 2nd dnf really cool route, managed to cleanly make my way up to the huge gaston, only to come down with some head issues. I think this is something I'd like to come back to when my confidence is improved
really cool route, managed to cleanly make my way up to the huge gaston, only to come down with some head issues. I think this is something I'd like to come back to when my confidence is improved
Gus 14 Sep Lead
with Vicky hurley
with Vicky hurley
Duncan Campbell 14 Sep Lead RP 2nd go. Stupidly didn’t warm up as there wasn’t anything obvious to do (though the 6a yo the left would have been better than nothing!) fell off in the groove on my onsight go. Fortunately went down ok next go. Think with better tactics I’d have stood a good chance of onsighting this. Brilliant sustained climbing up crimpy flowstone with a crux at the top! Very very good.
2nd go. Stupidly didn’t warm up as there wasn’t anything obvious to do (though the 6a yo the left would have been better than nothing!) fell off in the groove on my onsight go. Fortunately went down ok next go. Think with better tactics I’d have stood a good chance of onsighting this. Brilliant sustained climbing up crimpy flowstone with a crux at the top! Very very good.
Rockmonkey1977 14 Sep Lead RP Either the forth or fifth session on this beaut and finally it goes! I went with the left exit but I’m reliably informed it also goes with a right exit... It was my fourth and final go today (not including hanging the qd’s) so was chuffed to leave with ‘success’ for a change. Was pretty touch and go all the way to the chains. Maybe I’ll come back and try the right exit as I think I’ll miss Bert and Ernie...
Either the forth or fifth session on this beaut and finally it goes! I went with the left exit but I’m reliably informed it also goes with a right exit... It was my fourth and final go today (not including hanging the qd’s) so was chuffed to leave with ‘success’ for a change. Was pretty touch and go all the way to the chains. Maybe I’ll come back and try the right exit as I think I’ll miss Bert and Ernie...
Owen Davies 22 Aug Lead RP Wow! Never thought I'd be good enough to try a route like this!!! First tried last week with Phil rich and xav and did it first go today with Olly and Zoe. Olly had two good redpoints and found an easier sequence crossing through with the right to the pinchy crimp. Cove Inn to end the day :)
Wow! Never thought I'd be good enough to try a route like this!!! First tried last week with Phil rich and xav and did it first go today with Olly and Zoe. Olly had two good redpoints and found an easier sequence crossing through with the right to the pinchy crimp. Cove Inn to end the day :)
realbobsmith 19 Aug Lead RP
dryvita 27 Jul Lead dog Visit number 3. Bottom section to crux now totally wired but crux itself remains simultaneously subtle and bastard hard. Need to work it out properly in isolation. Definite progress, need to come back stronger
Visit number 3. Bottom section to crux now totally wired but crux itself remains simultaneously subtle and bastard hard. Need to work it out properly in isolation. Definite progress, need to come back stronger
Hidden 27 Jul Lead RP
adamsriches 13 Jul Lead dog Managed some better links, did with one fall. Just got to get better at the top
with dryvita
Managed some better links, did with one fall. Just got to get better at the top
with dryvita
dryvita 13 Jul Lead dog Progress. Linked bottom to crux in two sections. Crux still feels bastard hard but at now more or less sussed - going to need to figure out how to get something back at the big chalky sidepull/undercling block..
Progress. Linked bottom to crux in two sections. Crux still feels bastard hard but at now more or less sussed - going to need to figure out how to get something back at the big chalky sidepull/undercling block..
adamsriches 30 Jun TR dog managed to work all the moves - going to take a lot of work to link it though.
with dryvita
managed to work all the moves - going to take a lot of work to link it though.
with dryvita
dryvita 30 Jun TR dog opened the account. good links but really struggling with the top crux - moving out of the LH sidepull by second to last draw. From higher right hand gaston worked out doable sequence to chains but missing the crucial link and absolutely zero chance of clipping the penultimate draw - looking forward to some big whips next visit
opened the account. good links but really struggling with the top crux - moving out of the LH sidepull by second to last draw. From higher right hand gaston worked out doable sequence to chains but missing the crucial link and absolutely zero chance of clipping the penultimate draw - looking forward to some big whips next visit
Hidden 16 Jun Lead dog
Hidden 27 May Lead dog
edoardogaude 27 May Lead dnf
Llinos C 27 May Lead RP Feds one of the best 7b+s’ on the Island
with Cailean, brices
Feds one of the best 7b+s’ on the Island
with Cailean, brices
BenNorman 19 May Lead RP Great route, should be on everyone's Portland list, 2nd RP
Great route, should be on everyone's Portland list, 2nd RP
Cristiano 15 May Lead RP
Rockmonkey1977 27 Apr Lead dog Got about 2/3 on the onsight go, which wasn’t bad considering I was intending to go bolt to bolt. Did all the moves to the top but think I could definitely refine the beta. Was going to try a Redpoint burn but then decided against it as it was a bit greasy and my fingers were a bit tweaky and this is a fingery climb... (lots of excuses!)
Got about 2/3 on the onsight go, which wasn’t bad considering I was intending to go bolt to bolt. Did all the moves to the top but think I could definitely refine the beta. Was going to try a Redpoint burn but then decided against it as it was a bit greasy and my fingers were a bit tweaky and this is a fingery climb... (lots of excuses!)
Martin Bagshaw 14 Apr TR dog Good route. Will take some work, and good conditions for some of the holds too.
with Tom Hudson
Good route. Will take some work, and good conditions for some of the holds too.
with Tom Hudson
Yossarian 11 Apr TR dog TR solo
TR solo
hankyc 7 Apr Lead RP Worth abbing in today to get the send, still felt nails, absolutely brilliant!
Worth abbing in today to get the send, still felt nails, absolutely brilliant!
aiyer 24 Feb Lead dog Well hard! and I lost at Scrabble, doubley sad! Cryptic short person beta: Go hand ledge to hand ledge - undercut for RH, finger eating pocket for LH and then the big move for RH. L heel on the finger ledge to make to next desperate move - that is all!
Well hard! and I lost at Scrabble, doubley sad! Cryptic short person beta: Go hand ledge to hand ledge - undercut for RH, finger eating pocket for LH and then the big move for RH. L heel on the finger ledge to make to next desperate move - that is all!
S.Kew 27 Jan Lead RP
Spatchcock 27 Jan Lead
Billg 1 Jan Lead RP Great route.. bloody pumpy. Wish i'd spotted the easy way into the groove !!
with Will Calvert
Great route.. bloody pumpy. Wish i'd spotted the easy way into the groove !!
with Will Calvert
brian watson 1 Jan Lead dog Need to work on this, sore fingers again, moves are ok, no stamina.
with Ellis Bird
Need to work on this, sore fingers again, moves are ok, no stamina.
with Ellis Bird
Ramon Marin ?? Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Henry.Todman 3 Nov, 2018 Lead RP Worked the moves bolt to bolt for a while to get the sequence, then managed to forget all my beta on the redpoint. Felt hard for 7b+, but I have no endurance so that was likely the issue.
Worked the moves bolt to bolt for a while to get the sequence, then managed to forget all my beta on the redpoint. Felt hard for 7b+, but I have no endurance so that was likely the issue.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 1 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt Twice after doing Illusions. Great for training and an amazing line.
with Ellis Bird, drewish
Twice after doing Illusions. Great for training and an amazing line.
with Ellis Bird, drewish
Mark Stevenson 26 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
brian watson 21 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Worked through all the moves and links. Problem will be endurance . . . . as always.
with Ed Babs
Worked through all the moves and links. Problem will be endurance . . . . as always.
with Ed Babs
ThomasB 8 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Very nice... Almost lost it when clipping the chain!!!
Very nice... Almost lost it when clipping the chain!!!
katy_abra 4 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Q.Estelles 7 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
The Jazz Butcher 8 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt 21 years after doing it for the first time. Still as good!
with Bern
21 years after doing it for the first time. Still as good!
with Bern
td72 4 Jun, 2018 Lead RP great route, don't go left too early
with katie93
great route, don't go left too early
with katie93
marcduhig 8 May, 2018 Lead rpt 2nd go
with chancer
2nd go
with chancer
thomasmouse 7 May, 2018 Lead RP
nickhamb 14 Apr, 2018 TR dog Great climb. A new project!
Great climb. A new project!
Q.Estelles 14 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Foggy day with lost of moisture, definitely will have another go with better conditions.
Foggy day with lost of moisture, definitely will have another go with better conditions.
gem_stone12 28 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
nimajneb 28 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
alexspurling 23 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Worked the route bolt to bolt but obviously a very nice line. Will need to be a bit stronger to link the moves. Still a bit unsure of the section at half height which requires a big reach to a half-pad crimp rail.
Worked the route bolt to bolt but obviously a very nice line. Will need to be a bit stronger to link the moves. Still a bit unsure of the section at half height which requires a big reach to a half-pad crimp rail.
rockafunked 23 Sep, 2017 TR dnf Way beyond me (for the moment!)
Way beyond me (for the moment!)
Qisheng Xie 6 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Crimp fest with a tough finish.
Crimp fest with a tough finish.
Aaron.Clifford 6 Aug, 2017 Lead RP dropped last move 3 times then didn't drop it on the 4th, really intuitive flowy route which stays at a similar difficulty from the ground to the chains with little rest, rare!
dropped last move 3 times then didn't drop it on the 4th, really intuitive flowy route which stays at a similar difficulty from the ground to the chains with little rest, rare!
GrahamGiles 6 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Had 4 burns on this but just couldn't link the Crux with the lower half. Pretty much my anti-style being crimpy and sustained. I'm sure it'll go next time though.
Had 4 burns on this but just couldn't link the Crux with the lower half. Pretty much my anti-style being crimpy and sustained. I'm sure it'll go next time though.
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
samparsons 9 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Finally got it after dropping it past the last bolt 3 times. Started working 2 Jun 2017
Finally got it after dropping it past the last bolt 3 times. Started working 2 Jun 2017
Hidden 9 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
Carnie Lisa 11 Mar, 2017 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Hidden 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
Hugobristol 22 Jan, 2017 Lead dog Got onto the final headwall three times. Never quite managed the job
with Eleanor
Got onto the final headwall three times. Never quite managed the job
with Eleanor
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Hugobristol 15 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Lower section had one or two greasy holds but was otherwise in good nick. Found some much more logical beta! unfortunately the rain cut short our session... new highpoint though.
Lower section had one or two greasy holds but was otherwise in good nick. Found some much more logical beta! unfortunately the rain cut short our session... new highpoint though.
Hugobristol 11 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Didnt think too much of the line/cliff, but the climbing was very nice. A bit too sustained to do this session with some tricky clips. Definitely warrants a return trip- or two!
with Eleanor
Didnt think too much of the line/cliff, but the climbing was very nice. A bit too sustained to do this session with some tricky clips. Definitely warrants a return trip- or two!
with Eleanor
Hidden 18 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 TR dog
Sophie Nunn 21 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
brian watson 21 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Dogged to 5th bolt. Top roped twice after, got somewhere near having all the moves done, last move out of groove to left needs refining. F##k my fingers are sore!!
Dogged to 5th bolt. Top roped twice after, got somewhere near having all the moves done, last move out of groove to left needs refining. F##k my fingers are sore!!
afrosam 18 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 1st RP. Nice route
1st RP. Nice route
anthony henry 13 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Best not done in the sun. Great route. Up there with Zinc oxide
Best not done in the sun. Great route. Up there with Zinc oxide
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
anthony henry 1 May, 2016 Lead dog
Garrouli 1 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Mark
with Mark
La Mont 30 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
with Will
with Will
BenL 12 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with La Mont, Angus Webb
with La Mont, Angus Webb
La Mont 12 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Ben Lloyd
with Ben Lloyd
Ed Babs 10 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Quite a few days over 6 years. Such a good route, and a very satisfying tick - I really had to throw one on for the top of the crag.
with Mike Hawkins
Quite a few days over 6 years. Such a good route, and a very satisfying tick - I really had to throw one on for the top of the crag.
with Mike Hawkins
AlexD 18 Feb, 2016 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
LucaC 8 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Tried to onsight and then one red point attempt before it got too greasy to climb.
with Phill, George
Tried to onsight and then one red point attempt before it got too greasy to climb.
with Phill, George
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt Love this route. Defiantly one of my favourites. Nice to do it again. 1st go today.
Love this route. Defiantly one of my favourites. Nice to do it again. 1st go today.
Beefy Bert ??, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 TR dog
jackgriffiths 17 Aug, 2014 Lead β Amazing route. Watched a bunch of other people on it while working illusions. Super psyked to get the flash. I'd say the grade is correct.
Amazing route. Watched a bunch of other people on it while working illusions. Super psyked to get the flash. I'd say the grade is correct.
EmilyElouise 17 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
with geoff
with geoff
ASchwirtz 17 May, 2014 Lead dog Very greasy, come back on a cold day!
Very greasy, come back on a cold day!
thomb 11 May, 2014 Lead dog
with Gareth
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 11 May, 2014 Lead dog Lead to about two thirds height, but couldn't link together through upper crux sequence. Good, but a little greasy.
with Wise, thomb
Lead to about two thirds height, but couldn't link together through upper crux sequence. Good, but a little greasy.
with Wise, thomb
Hidden 9 May, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 22 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
Daniel 22 Feb, 2014 Lead dnf Last climb of the day, but got all moves done. Chuffed.
with Matt Tomlinson
Last climb of the day, but got all moves done. Chuffed.
with Matt Tomlinson
Ed Booth 27 Dec, 2013 Lead dog put clips in, and then had a go after but was too cold. go to above the flake again but fell by the next clip. should be fine on a warmer day.
put clips in, and then had a go after but was too cold. go to above the flake again but fell by the next clip. should be fine on a warmer day.
Adam Booth 27 Dec, 2013 TR dog Didn't feel too bad except for the sea grease, the high winds, and the nearly sub zero temps! Will try again if I ever get back there.
Didn't feel too bad except for the sea grease, the high winds, and the nearly sub zero temps! Will try again if I ever get back there.
DDDD 11 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Tricky last two clips - had a few RP goes, close - no biscuit.
with Sham
Tricky last two clips - had a few RP goes, close - no biscuit.
with Sham
rustyfishhook 10 Jul, 2013 TR dnf couldn't complete first move surprise! But was fun to see what its all about. Cheers guys.
couldn't complete first move surprise! But was fun to see what its all about. Cheers guys.
minstrel nips,sean 9 Jul, 2013 TR dnf Very very hard posun
Very very hard posun
quiffhanger 26 May, 2013 Lead RP Really great sustained climbing. 2nd go. Gutted to drop the on-sight on the final few moves.
Really great sustained climbing. 2nd go. Gutted to drop the on-sight on the final few moves.
Hidden 26 May, 2013 TR dog
givemetea 18 May, 2013 TR dog hmmm ... a bit better than last time. I managed to link through the first 3 bolts and consistently do the long move onto the final head wall. Fingers were trashed by the third go!
with Cyan
hmmm ... a bit better than last time. I managed to link through the first 3 bolts and consistently do the long move onto the final head wall. Fingers were trashed by the third go!
with Cyan
Kevster 11 May, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 27 Apr, 2013 TR dog
3 Names 20 Apr, 2013 Lead RP 2nd red point
2nd red point
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
givemetea 18 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 18 Apr, 2013 TR dog
3 Names 18 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Ramon Marin 5 Feb, 2013 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 2 Feb, 2013 TR dog
brices 2 Feb, 2013 Lead dog
with Tomar
with Tomar
Hidden 27 Jan, 2013 TR dog
Jobbo 7 Jan, 2013 Lead dog
with Alex, mattc
with Alex, mattc
Hidden 21 Dec, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 30 Oct, 2012 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 30 Oct, 2012 2nd dog Ran out of skin - it's sharp!
Ran out of skin - it's sharp!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 30 Oct, 2012 Lead RP Second go. First go fell at the lower offs nailed it second time. Quality!
Second go. First go fell at the lower offs nailed it second time. Quality!
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 TR RP
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Alex More 8 Jul, 2012 TR dog
with Ed babs
with Ed babs
Marti999 22 May, 2012 Lead dog
with Paul Hayes
with Paul Hayes
Marti999 15 May, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
with Rob
with Rob
Dandan 19 Feb, 2012 Lead RP Cracking route, somehow managed to tick it in 3 goes, a quality stamina test that is getting a bit polished now.
Cracking route, somehow managed to tick it in 3 goes, a quality stamina test that is getting a bit polished now.
Tom Heslam 14 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
pezzerrr 12 Jan, 2012 Lead RP
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Hidden 27 Dec, 2011 Lead dog
Tophe 20 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
with tom106
with tom106
Hidden 12 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
with phattnoodle, Tom Hobley, samtucker
with phattnoodle, Tom Hobley, samtucker
Hidden 22 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 22 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 17 Sep, 2011 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 17 Sep, 2011 2nd dog
Jonathan Emett 14 Sep, 2011 TR dnf got frustrated, too hard.
got frustrated, too hard.
Hidden 28 May, 2011 Lead dog
La benya ?May, 2011 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 7 Nov, 2010 Lead RP great route got to the last hard move on the os then pulled back up the rope and did that move second go
great route got to the last hard move on the os then pulled back up the rope and did that move second go
jujuheath 30 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt 5th go
5th go
Hidden 18 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 4 Apr, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead RP
givemetea 3 Oct, 2009 TR dog could do all the moves but could only put two or three together max
could do all the moves but could only put two or three together max
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 Lead dog
steve taylor 27 Jun, 2009 TR dog
Ed Booth 4 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Got to the flake below the roof on the flash and fell off throwing for the first hard move. Dogged to top. Tried a redpoint but fell off trying to get the flake. ooops.
Got to the flake below the roof on the flash and fell off throwing for the first hard move. Dogged to top. Tried a redpoint but fell off trying to get the flake. ooops.
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead rpt
eddieclimb 15 Mar, 2009 Lead RP 3rd rp
with Rebecca Edwards
3rd rp
with Rebecca Edwards
feilx 25 Jan, 2009 Lead dog
gazhbo ??, 2009 Lead RP
feilx 20 Dec, 2008 Lead dog
dan gibson 16 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
with richard white
with richard white
Hidden 11 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
trev_f 1 Sep, 2008 TR dog
sam_cox ?Sep, 2008 Lead Second go!
Second go!
Richard Horn 27 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
La Mont ??, 2008 -
Martin Krasnansky 26 Nov, 2007 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?Jan, 2007 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
keefe 16 Sep, 2006 Lead
Hidden 16 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
bigie bob 19 Aug, 2006 Lead RP
feeko ??, 2006 -
_m.cox_ ?Apr, 2005 Lead RP
with Chris Davis
with Chris Davis
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead RP
John Southworth ?Aug, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 31 Jul, 1998 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ?Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set