20m.

Rockfax Description
Hard and pumpy climbing up superb flowstone. High in the grade, especially for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Guy Dixon 1997

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Wft 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: How on earth do you do the top move to the small pocket??
βeta?
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βeta: How on earth do you do the top move to the small pocket??
steve taylor 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The FA did it direct to the vertical slot. He is quite tall though
βeta?
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βeta: The FA did it direct to the vertical slot. He is quite tall though
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
colesy 19 Jan Lead RP 2nd go. Tricky at 7c
2nd go. Tricky at 7c
Hannah French 14 Sep, 2019 2nd dnf narlleeeyyyy, intense
narlleeeyyyy, intense
Duncan Campbell 14 Sep, 2019 Lead dog Had a couple of goes up but didn’t make much of a dent. Hard climbing that is also quite sustained. Skin was feeling a bit thin from climbing in the sun the yday and on road rage which probably didn’t help. Top crux is hard too! Lots of long moves on this
Had a couple of goes up but didn’t make much of a dent. Hard climbing that is also quite sustained. Skin was feeling a bit thin from climbing in the sun the yday and on road rage which probably didn’t help. Top crux is hard too! Lots of long moves on this
Beefy Bert 1 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Harder than illusions and pandemonium so 7c+/8a?
Harder than illusions and pandemonium so 7c+/8a?
realbobsmith 21 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
Wft 30 Jun, 2019 Lead dog No idea how to do top move, steady 7c+ up to there
No idea how to do top move, steady 7c+ up to there
brices 27 May, 2019 Lead dog Really good, proper intense from start to finish. Hard start to hard middle to a boulder problem. Probably harder than illusions.
Really good, proper intense from start to finish. Hard start to hard middle to a boulder problem. Probably harder than illusions.
The Jazz Butcher 13 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Finally managed to drag my ageing arse up this, 20 years after first trying it. Found the bouldery top sequence very hard and had to accept that I needed to do some specific training. So, after a couple of months of finger boarding and campus training a slightly greyer haired Jazz Butcher clipped the lower off. Awesome lower section followed by a brutal bouldery top crux. Very hard for the grade in my humble opinion.
with Drew, Beefy Bert
Finally managed to drag my ageing arse up this, 20 years after first trying it. Found the bouldery top sequence very hard and had to accept that I needed to do some specific training. So, after a couple of months of finger boarding and campus training a slightly greyer haired Jazz Butcher clipped the lower off. Awesome lower section followed by a brutal bouldery top crux. Very hard for the grade in my humble opinion.
with Drew, Beefy Bert
pezzerrr 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Greasy today. Tough last move!
Greasy today. Tough last move!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Too hot, too tired, too weak. Very finger.
Too hot, too tired, too weak. Very finger.
bigie bob 11 Feb, 2009 Lead RP
La Mont ??, 2008 -
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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set