12m.

Rockfax Description
A fine pitch up a leaning wall on sloping holds. Best done on a cold crisp winter's day; then the slopers feel like jugs. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 26.8.93 26/Aug/1993

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 20/Jul TR rpt
SaraAlassam 03/Jun Lead dog
with Simon Bennett
Ed.Laver 13/May Lead β
with bede
StrongDan 13/May Lead β
RangerMcFreindly 13/May Lead G/U

Some really good moves

bede.west 13/May Lead O/S
Marti999 26/Apr Lead rpt
with Shamina , sue Hazel
robgixer 21/Apr Lead O/S
TomatoPro 16/Apr Lead O/S

Nice dynamic move at the start

Hidden 16/Apr Lead RP
JoeFoster59 16/Apr Lead G/U

My best lead of the trip got the start wrong but with some helpful beta got the dynamic move then proceeded to just about fight my way to the top cool route

samparsons 07/Apr Lead β
Mike Weatherill 01/Apr Lead
dom_joyce265 26/Mar Lead O/S
joe1joe1joe2 26/Mar Lead O/S

Pumpy warm up

MontyH 25/Mar Lead
with Paul Milton
Hidden 25/Mar TR dnf
simonsnake77 19/Mar TR dog

Still struggled on the top rope getting pumped out after clip 3, good job Ben Symonds for leading this even though you fell on every clip!

Sam4242 19/Mar Lead O/S
Cole Robertson 11/Mar Lead O/S

Fun route. Not so many slopers if you take the time to look. Fell cleaning the route (after the OS) trying to clip the 3rd bolt and grounded out. Careful out there.

The Grist 25/Feb Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
haribotheclimber 28/Jan Lead dog

being told it was a "easy 6A"

haribotheclimber ??/2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Dec/16 TR O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Steph
Steph Roberts 23/Oct/16 Lead RP

Finally. First redpoint today.

with Sam
Mike Weatherill 03/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Mike Weatherill 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt
simibrown 13/Aug/16 AltLd
with tej
ian d f 09/Aug/16 TR O/S
with shunt
Mike Weatherill 24/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Mike Weatherill 21/Jul/16 Lead rpt
MontyH 16/Jul/16 Lead
with Paul Milton
brian watson 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
Adam Willison 10/Jul/16 Lead β
Hidden 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
kiwicat1 03/Jun/16 Lead rpt
alexspurling 01/May/16 Lead β
Hidden 10/Apr/16 TR
Matti Puckridge 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great little route. Strange retro bolting going on means you have a lot of bolts.

roryferris 02/Apr/16 Lead dog
with emily
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
trevor macalonan 16/Jan/16 TR RP
with Richy
Hidden 16/Jan/16 TR RP
Laramadness 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Mike F
e9mark 23/Jul/15 2nd
with barry
charley 20/Jul/15 TR O/S

Pretty pumped on the 2nd half - felt way too hot for those slopers for me. Nice lead by Jerome who made it look effortless ...

Joris.Roulleau 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Hamish Rose
Ciderslider 19/Jul/15 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Steph
Hidden 04/Jul/15 TR dog
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
john lynch 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Alan, Sophie, Chris Weedon, Drew, Steph
Sophie Nunn 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ed B
Monkey_Alan 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
MontyH 30/May/15 Lead rpt
with pete frost
el_monty 28/May/15 Lead RP
with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/15 Lead rpt
with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/May/15 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Marti has done a good job rebolting this route, extra bolts make the climbing feel super safe. More bolts on this than the rest of the cliff!

Hidden 11/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead rpt
Marcin78 ?/May/15 Lead
with Rafal
Jane Weir 26/Apr/15 Lead
philhaigh 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Sam Husband 06/Apr/15 Lead dog

Standard swanage could do with one more bolt. Ed did well to clean it after fracturing his skull last time round!

with Ed
Stroppy 06/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Woo! Defeated about 14 months after a little slip on this route. Could do with another bolt IMO, but I am biased

Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
RadekNowak 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

definately harded on a hot, sunny day when it gets greasy

JM 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
paultaylor 16/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Matt.c.Warner ?/Jun/14 -
khalidq 05/May/14 TR dog
TiffTiff 05/Apr/14 TR β
with Sarp
sarpedon 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 -
Stroppy 15/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Fell off, leg caught in rope, flipped upside down, fractured skull. Kind of ruied the weekend, sorry about the blood!

hervenuttall ??/2014 Lead O/S
with calum
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
paul ireland 07/Aug/13 Lead RP

pump fest!

Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead RP
Luxulyan 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Darryl
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Callum Smith ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead dog
paultaylor 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 30/Aug/12 Lead RP

Took a go to remind myself where all the holds are and then nailed it. Was a bit greasy, but good route.

lizzie789 26/Aug/12 2nd
marcduhig 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 18/Jun/12 Lead dog

Did not get it first go. Then worked out a good sequence, but on RP attempt got all the way to the top and then peeled off before the lower off.

marcb 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Always happy to get a 6b+ os, especially after 2 weeks off from climbing! Good climbing, we did it on a sunny day against the guidebook's recommendation and it wasn't bad at all.

Jonathan Emett 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Paul
Dean177 16/Jun/12 -
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Ciro 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Nice line with some unusual moves... had to work for it!

with Nic
Hidden 22/Jan/12 Lead dog
Ian Bell 22/Jan/12 TR dog

Pumpy. Scary 2nd bolt if leading.

with Sean Kenny
Hidden ??/2012 -
Alex More 27/Dec/11 Lead

Nice to get this one done. lower off in poor state needs redrilling

with KDhruev
Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Gazleah 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with joey gilham
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
lewiz 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

So pumpy! Awesome route.

tom.ireson 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, didn't expect to get so pumped!

with Paul Jones, David Proctor
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
duncan 05/Mar/11 Lead rpt
duncan 05/Mar/11 TR rpt
Jonathan Emett 27/Aug/10 TR dog
with andy hart
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
riddle 04/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Yasmina
ollie1 26/Jun/10 TR dog
MarkRyder 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Lee
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
The Jazz Butcher 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Bern
metal arms 30/Aug/09 Lead RP
feilx 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Joe
davespider ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Laura Barclay
AlistairB 16/May/09 2nd dog

Lacked time or energy to go for the redpoint.

with Johnny
vertigo 27/Mar/09 Lead RP
trev_f 08/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Alex M
jezb1 02/Feb/09 2nd dog
breed 09/Jan/09 Lead dog
metal arms 28/Dec/08 Lead dog

Sat on first and second bolt

Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 29/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Harry
Marti999 18/May/08 Lead rpt
clipskipper 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S

First 6b+ onsight!

with Ed Babington
sadams 23/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 23/Feb/08 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Dec/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 22/Jul/07 Lead RP
with Andy Webster
MontyH 16/May/07 TR β

lead last section

with brian and lee
Monk 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
mullermn 18/Feb/07 2nd
with Monkey
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
bigie bob 22/Sep/06 Lead O/S
thomb ?/Sep/06 Solo
with Harry
Hidden 30/May/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
duncan 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Vladimir Arnoudov
just one more 19/Apr/03 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 05/Jun/02 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Steven Martin
Hidden 07/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jan/98 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Bruce Kerr 08/Apr/95 Lead
with George MacIntyre, Keith Turton
Roget 02/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Nigel Coe ??/1995 -

Approx date

Dringo ??/1995 -
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set