UKC

Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
  • Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

50m.

Rockfax Description
An eliminate making most of the gap between Lyme Cryme and Robert Brown originally climbed in one long 50m pitch with side-runners in adjacent routes in places. Follow Lyme Cryme to the bulge, then pull through as for Brompton's Cocktail to a rest on a rib. Climb direct to a flake then move right and climb the wall to the Delicatessen traverse. Continue to a ledge on Debauchery and keep going up the white wall to join the left-hand finish of Robert Brown. Follow this then head direct up the juggy finishing wall (Fantasia). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A monster eliminate taking a direct line that makes the most of the rock between Lyme Cryme and Robert Brown. Has some great climbing

Follow Lyme Cryme to the bulge and pull through it as for Bromptons Cocktail then gain a standing/resting position on the rib to the left. From here climb direct with difficulty to gain a two finger pocket then short flake with a peg. Climb up the flake and stand on it. Lean left to put some cheeky siderunners in the crack of Lyme Cryme. Move right to a narrow ledge then climb the grey wall (as for Happy Hour) to the pockets on the Delicatessen traverse. Stretch right and place some disappointing runners in the flake to the right then keep climbing the wall directly with trepidation (poor spike runner) to gain a small but welcome ledge on Debauchery, PR in thin break above. Pull past this to a downward pointing bent peg then climb the white wall above to a flake with a PR (the wrong finish to Robert Brown!). Make tricky moves up this and to the break, PR. Finish direct up the juggy wall above.

Simon Lee and Will Pettet Smith.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tony-S 30 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing.
shark 27 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tony Stone (Tony-S). Curious that you’ve put this in the hybrids and link ups section but not other similarly eliminate routes such as Party in the Park, Aegis, Reproduction, Supersonic, Grimsvotn and Tumbril. Now why would that be then?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tony Stone (Tony-S). Curious that you’ve put this in the hybrids and link ups section but not other similarly eliminate routes such as Party in the Park, Aegis, Reproduction, Supersonic, Grimsvotn and Tumbril. Now why would that be then?

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High E6
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High E5
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High E4
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High 6c
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Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Tales of Yankee Power

Grade: E5 6a ***
(High Tor)

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