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45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A major and historic tick that can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. The route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Back up any old gear that you come across.
1) 5b, 21m. Traverse left from the base of Original Route, moving up to a peg. Keep going up left to two cracks (on Darius) - this can be done high or low with no change in grade. Move left again below the bulge then pull over to the famous stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Leave the stance via the left-hand crack to a peg. Make an awkward rising traverse leftwards (pegs) to easier ground below the break. Keep traversing horizontally left (more pegs) until you can pull up to a tree. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1967. FA. Chris Jackson, John Atkinson (some aid) 1965..

Ticklists

Hard Rock, The High Tor Top Ten, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Extreme 2018, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade, It's "D" Day at High Tor, On Peak Rock, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, Hard Rock 2020, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
fishimishi 17 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay
Chris the Tall 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs
Alex Mason 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!!
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch.
 
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch.
Alun 21 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires.
ste 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action.
Furzy Sleight 9 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tasty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tasty

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Route of Interest

Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)