Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A major and historic tick that can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. The route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Back up any old gear that you come across.
1) 5b, 21m. Traverse left from the base of Original Route, moving up to a peg. Keep going up left to two cracks (on Darius) - this can be done high or low with no change in grade. Move left again below the bulge then pull over to the famous stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Leave the stance via the left-hand crack to a peg. Make an awkward rising traverse leftwards (pegs) to easier ground below the break. Keep traversing horizontally left (more pegs) until you can pull up to a tree. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1967. FA. Chris Jackson, John Atkinson (some aid) 1965..
Ticklists
Hard Rock , The High Tor Top Ten , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , It's "D" Day at High Tor , On Peak Rock , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , Hard Rock 2020 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Hard Rock 2020 , Pete's Peak Treats , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , Peak District Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| steveb2006 | 12 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite a few of the gear slots are getting very worn - you do seem a bit over reliant on old pegs at times. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite a few of the gear slots are getting very worn - you do seem a bit over reliant on old pegs at times. |
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| mrjonathanr | 25 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Treat the rock in upper part of pitch with care. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Treat the rock in upper part of pitch with care. |
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| mb_manchester | 22 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: great gem. provides enormous air volume and the feelings are both exciting and scary. the climbing is very enjoyable in the 1st pitch, the 2nd is the Crux with 2 Crux sections, in my opinion. plenty of gear though and plenty of proper trad climbing. awesome climb! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: great gem. provides enormous air volume and the feelings are both exciting and scary. the climbing is very enjoyable in the 1st pitch, the 2nd is the Crux with 2 Crux sections, in my opinion. plenty of gear though and plenty of proper trad climbing. awesome climb! |
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| fishimishi | 17 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay |
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| Chris the Tall | 12 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs |
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| Alex Mason | 9 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!! |
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| John Alcock | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch. |
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| Alun | 21 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires. |
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| ste | 2 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 9 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tasty | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tasty |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Kelly's Overhang
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)