Rockfax Description
Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some brilliant technical sequences. Start lower than Original Route as for Supersonic (this helps keep the wires on the crux in). Move up left and follow the crack as for Tales until the curving overlap on the right can be gained. Pull out right from this to a rest then climb direct up a peg-scarred crack (polished) to a good hold. Wander more easily rightwards up the dinner-plate flake and finish direct from its end. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Scott, Clive Davies 1961. The upper flake was much more friable making their ascent terrifying. The route was jokingly renamed every time someone removed one of the aid points. Hook-Crook Wall (4 pts) and Bulldog Wall (1 rest) are both previous n

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, The Top 5 E4's in the UK?, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 14/Oct/17 Lead G/U
harry_lewis 06/Sep/17 Lead RP

Round 2 - went a little better this time. G/U

with Ed Teale
mrteale 06/Sep/17 Lead

Ground up. Better conditions today and found the overlap much easier by going the right way this time. Amazing climbing.

Gabe Oliver 06/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Balls. 2 lobs trying to get across the overlap with my feet feeling like they were skating on ice. Burlier than expected. Bailed up Original Route as the light was rapidly disappearing.

ashtond6 12/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Got to the hands off rest in the groove as it started raining. Got spooked so lowered off.

Haydn Jones 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Meh. Didn't live up to the hype

Hidden 21/Jul/17 -
mrteale 08/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Got some good gear in the overlap but couldn't suss the traverse, fell off without really getting very far at all. made all the harder by the heat. Will be back.

samt 08/Jul/17 Lead dog

Really not fit so ran out of steam. Need some stamina!

with Nic Kidd
duncan 23/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Hugo Glover
harry_lewis 22/Jun/17 AltLd dnf

pinged off going round the overlap, ripped out two cams and smacked into the ledge down below. some bruised ankles and a very bruised ego but luckily nothing worse! take care with gear in slippery polished limestone...

with CRead
Neil McA 31/May/17 2nd rpt
with andy mitchell
Andrew Wilson 13/May/17 2nd dog

1 rest

with Misha
Misha 13/May/17 Lead dog

All went will until the crux, where I pinged off. Tried this 7 years ago but couldn't get over the overlap. This time bridged across and down to the good foothold and from there it turned out to be an easy reach to a juggy pocket. Got a wire in the pocket as well, so pretty safe piano playing across to the hands off rest. There was a guy on Supersonic who was taking a while so I waited for him but eventually he lowered off. Getting to the two pockets before the crux was fine. Did a cross through move to latch the pocket below the peg but the next move to the juggy flake looked hard, so I hesitated and tried to clip the draw (left by the Supersonic guy) but lost balance and fell off. Second go matched the pocket, threw for the jug and clipped from above. Great route! Didn't use cams larger than 0.4 but useful to have two 0.4s as one of them protects the crux.

with Andy W
philhilo 11/May/17 Lead dnf

Failed again! Finally sorted out the bottom moves (after some big air) but ran out of gas, time, and would run out of draws at the crux. Next time.

with mark hodson
Flavio 30/Apr/17 Lead G/U
Wil Treasure 02/Apr/17 Lead
with brannock
Brannock 02/Apr/17 2nd
ferdia 13/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 13/Mar/17 2nd

Ferdia stole my lead. It's true. She is a nasty woman. I've dreamed of this route. It was taken from me. Sad.

with Ferdia
ian bryant ??/2017 -
Hidden 04/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Fraser13 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/16 2nd rpt
LJC 07/Sep/16 Lead dnf

3 falls on the crux then gave up

with George
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
duncan 04/Sep/16 2nd rpt

With "Gavin", whose second declined to follow.

Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
Ed Babs 22/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to do the traverse.

with AlexD
eel 10/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with bigdrew
bigdrew 10/Jul/16 Lead

Not ground up but Original Route and up.. Fell off the initial traverse (By far the hardest move for me unless I am missing something) and started again from original route..

with Eve
Mike_Hayes 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 29/May/16 Lead G/U

Dident mess the ropes up this time, it is quite important to leave a rope free for the groove

Hidden 22/May/16 Lead rpt
Hannes B 19/Nov/15 2nd
with Tom
quiffhanger 12/Sep/15 2nd β

Almost fell off the traverse, felt as hard as Supersonic.

with Pete W, Dan
James Oswald 15/Aug/15 Lead dog

Hard, fell off 3 times. Once trying to reverse back along the traverse and again in the groove. The traverse is scary, hard moves when you are quite a long way to the left and above your gear..

with Malcolm Scott
eel 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan
ian d f 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A fine route. Led with in-situ gear through most of the hard stuff after Mike lowered off. This no doubt helped!

pearson9596 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Luke Dawson 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S

not a good hangover cure

Albert Exley 10/Jun/15 2nd dog
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great. Polished in the groove - took a line of flakes slightly right of the crack and joined it at the top, making a bold and difficult move to clip the peg!

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf
jshields 15/May/15 2nd

Oh my!

with Paul Tretheway
markalmack 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Found the traverse desperate. Harder than I remember

rocksol ??/2015 -
Hannes B 19/Sep/14 Lead dog

great route - 3 falls

with Neil C
Ed morris 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Superb. Start to finish.

with paul
littleluke 13/Sep/14 2nd β
Ricky Rocks 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Apr/14 2nd
with Ben Silvestre
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd β
mike mo ??/2014 -
ejected ??/2014 -
harvie ??/2014 Lead O/S
piken 03/Sep/13 Lead
Adam Booth 01/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Fell off trying to pull through overlap. Think I tried going too high.

with Masa
nathanlee 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Shaky wall, need to do more of this.

w.pettet-smith 09/Jun/13 -
with oli
nickdonohue 26/May/13 2nd
with Ian Bryant
Ed Booth 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ed Hamer, Sam Hamer
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
mgeek 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S

hard crux, rest pretty friendly!

with Neill Busby
buzby78 24/Apr/13 2nd
with McGeek
Hidden 01/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
JRae 11/Nov/12 2nd

Really cool move going for the jug after the peg, (easy to catch if you're falling leftwards). Traverse is much easier if you go right and down an extra move to the good footholds below the big hold rather than try and span.

mwatson 11/Nov/12 Lead rpt


Speeddemonsi 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
brockers 30/Jun/12 2nd

Hard. Fell on the traverse under the first overhang.

with Nibbs
Ally Smith 10/Jun/12 Lead β

2nd'd Gareth up it last year

markalmack 12/May/12 Lead O/S
david morse 12/May/12 2nd dog

getting shut down again...

Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead
JBO 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E4! Thought the first traverse along the undercut break was nails, but the rest above was most welcome. The moves on the peg scars felt easier than the traverse, though they are getting a bit polished! Thought the final run out above the flake was a bit scary but that just added to the route.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Dave Bond 03/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Adam Long
Jordan B 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Joel Pixley
thomasadixon 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Tried to lead it (on mike's gear) in darkening light and pumped out after getting to the peg below the jug clean...a rest let me see a foothold which made the move easy. Decided to strip gear, climb back down to peg and ab off. Should go next time!

with Mike
switch 11/Sep/10 2nd
with James
Martin Cleaver 26/May/10 2nd
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 26/May/10 Lead RP
with martin cleaver
bigie bob 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Rich Kirby 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Kev
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead
James Thacker 15/Aug/09 2nd
philhilo ?/Jul/09 2nd dog

Tried previous year, could not get across to the overlap.Still very hard. Probably good as the rest is even harder. Lots of 6a with the occasional 5c. Shattered at the end.

NDD 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Alan, Will
Cassidy 14/Jun/09 Lead β

Beta = did Reproduction and Supersonic first

with Will, Duboust
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
tuftynick 23/May/09 2nd rpt
DavidEvans 23/May/09 Lead β

Had seconded it before. Still well chuffed. Foot slipped on crux and nearly came off.

Pete Graham ?/May/09 Lead
willackers 18/Apr/09 2nd β

Gutted I didn't lead it, quality!

with Tom Mills
Brown 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Matt Lloyd
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead

Had seconded before. Harder on the lead!

morganator 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
lukehunt 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steve barrat
Paz 15/Sep/08 Lead dnf

Lobbed on a jammed wire by the first hard bit due to cowardice, and abbed off it cunningly a few times. Worked the move out for next time though.

with TS
Andrew Barker 26/Jul/08 Lead

Fell of the undercut moves first go, it was the first and only route of the day so my excuse is I wasn't warmed up! Lowered off and did it ground-up next go. Amazing climb, a contender for the best trad route I've ever done.

with Skippy
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/May/08 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, found the traverse in from original route harder than whats supposed to be the crux higher up.

with Andy Nicholson
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 06/May/08 Lead O/S
nige 05/May/08 Lead
with mark hounslea
alaan 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 05/May/08 2nd

Bloody brilliant, even on second, would love to come back and lead it.

robyn1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
feilx 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jul/07 Lead
with John Codling
Hidden 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Awesome best climbing experience ever i reckon. Did cross through on crux rather that low undercuts! 4*

craig d ?/May/07 Lead
with Mark Bridgman-Smith
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 24/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Was cutting this fine. Still tired from Kilnsey yesterday, the traverse section out of original route felt tough - only just made it. Everything else on the route went fine though, including the supposed crux.

with Alex
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 04/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 30/May/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Gus ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
pete johnson ?/May/03 Lead
with Lun
Hidden 11/Aug/02 Lead dog
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Dave Thomas
steepstuff ??/2000 -
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
craig h 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Chris c
Hidden 26/Apr/99 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jul/98 Lead
ste_d 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 15/Jun/96 2nd O/S
crossleysm ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
duncan ??/1996 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Aug/95 2nd
with Nick Ashton
D Tempest 23/Jul/95 Lead
with Rick
Graeme Smithy ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S

First os lead of an E4

Roget 01/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with jon
Stoney Boy 01/May/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum
mattnuttall 15/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/93 Lead O/S

Awesome, three hard sections, all very good climbing.

with KM
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead dog
uphillnow ??/1992 2nd

The start of Graeme's harder leads.

with Graeme Smith
Hidden 27/Sep/91 Lead dog
steve taylor ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S

First proper E4 :¬)

with stumpy
keefe 10/Aug/91 -
whispering nic ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Graham Iles
Rich Kirby 07/May/91 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Pete Ogden ??/1990 -
with Dave Ramsey
DDDD ??/1989 -
William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
Eduardo Martinez ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden ?/May/88 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1988 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
AlexRenshaw 20/Apr/87 Lead
with Dor? Green
Bruce Kerr 18/Apr/87 Lead
with Shamim Velani
keefe 26/Jun/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Chris Wright 13/Oct/85 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 29/Sep/85 Lead rpt
with Paul Hempstock
ukb & bmc shark 18/Jun/85 Lead
with Dave Marsh
sadams 08/Jun/85 Lead dnf
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 26/May/85 Lead
Mike Owen 09/Mar/85 Lead rpt
with Jim Hewson
Seb Grieve ??/1985 Lead

First E4. Nice route.

Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
andy gittins ??/1985 -

finally climbed after a training visit to the Verdon - previous attempt ended below the crux with runners pulling sideways

Dave Musgrove ??/1985 -

I think I just seconded this, can't find record of exact date.

with Kim Greenald
Neil McA 13/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with 'jonathan'
AlexRenshaw 01/Jun/84 2nd
Dave Turnbull ?/May/84 Lead
with Paul Greenland
Andy Nicholson ??/1984 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 2nd O/S
with Tony Cox
duncan ??/1983 Lead O/S
Ivan Machin 14/Oct/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Mike Owen 10/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 22/Sep/82 -
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Brian H ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Ed Webster
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
robinsi197 ??/1980 2nd
with Patrick
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead β

Knocked a day off school! Did Demon Rib in the afternoon.

with Jim Rubery
petemeads 25/Jul/78 Lead O/S

Wonderful route, one of my proudest achievements. Mike Hood took photographs (from abseil) covering all the hard climbing and these are a treasured possession (the quality posted at present is very poor, awaiting a slide scanner).

with Steve Taylor
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 53
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set