37m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is well protected, there is a big run-out on only marginally easier territory with ground-fall potential. Scramble up easy rock to a belay under the groove. Climb the wall past two bolts into the capped groove. Climb the groove (heart in mouth, runners in mind) to small wire placements on the right and a peg. Move left with hands above the overhang to a rest on the Decadence belay. Make more great moves up the pocketed wall above past bolts until a final swing leftwards gains Flaky Wall. Finish as for this. © Rockfax

FFA. Andy Brown, Jerry Peel 1979. The hard start had been freed by American Mike Graham in 1977 but he didnt lead the full route in one push, he still renamed it Basteal though! FA.Brian Moore, D.Land 1963. Aid reduced to 1pt Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, The High Tor Top Ten, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Four years of university hit list

Feedback

UserDateNotes
GeoffG 7 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new.
Adrian Berry 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced.
GeoffG 7 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with TS
with TS
NDD 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Oli, sam harvie
with Oli, sam harvie
hamer89 19 May, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic route with a pretty tough start, scary groove and pumpy top wall. Awesome extrme rock tick! E6 6b
Fantastic route with a pretty tough start, scary groove and pumpy top wall. Awesome extrme rock tick! E6 6b
markalmack 11 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
rocksol ??, 2015 -
dominic lee 2 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Last this way one cold October morning in 1981 after getting the bus down from Sheffield. Still intimidating, still superb. Spotted The lorry park quarry from that bus.
Last this way one cold October morning in 1981 after getting the bus down from Sheffield. Still intimidating, still superb. Spotted The lorry park quarry from that bus.
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
craig d ?May, 2007 TR RP Really good, worked once then top-roped clean. Keen to go back and lead.
with Mark Bridgman-Smith
Really good, worked once then top-roped clean. Keen to go back and lead.
with Mark Bridgman-Smith
Hidden 4 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Dave Ferguson
with Dave Ferguson
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?May, 2001 Lead O/S superb and pretty tough. One very hard and blind move low down.
with Al Willoner
superb and pretty tough. One very hard and blind move low down.
with Al Willoner
Si Witcher ?Jan, 1998 Lead
with ellis
with ellis
Si Witcher ?Jan, 1998 Lead
with ellis
with ellis
ellis ??, 1998 2nd O/S
Si Witcher ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 8 May, 1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?May, 1993 Lead
with Paul Dearden
with Paul Dearden
Steve Walker ??, 1993 Lead first ascent by Pete Livesy in a pair of EB's. Not bad!
with stuart muir
first ascent by Pete Livesy in a pair of EB's. Not bad!
with stuart muir
Hidden 5 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1992 Lead dog
Chris Wright 1 Oct, 1991 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 29 Sep, 1987 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Seb Grieve 22 Sep, 1987 Lead
with Simon Lee
with Simon Lee
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 2 Aug, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
Dave Turnbull ?May, 1984 2nd
with Paul Greenland
with Paul Greenland
Mike Owen 20 Mar, 1983 2nd rpt
with Joe Healey
with Joe Healey
Mike Owen 13 Mar, 1983 Lead RP Tried earlier with Tom Jones.
with Elaine Owen
Tried earlier with Tom Jones.
with Elaine Owen
mitch1960 ??, 1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Hidden ??, 1980 2nd
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E7
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High E6
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Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 14
High 6c
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Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set