Rockfax Description
A perfectly-positioned middle pitch and less busy than some of the other lines in the area. The first stance at the start of the best climbing is easily reached at high tide by traversing across and down to it from the lower part of Ash Can Gully (Sev). Start at a thin crack right of the bottom of Ash Can Gully and just to the left of a small corner.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the thin crack and work up rightwards to a ledge and belay next to an arete on the right.
2) 4c, 22m. Traverse right to double converging cracks and follow these to a good ledge. Take the crack on the left to the overhang and make a short, awkward traverse left beneath it before breaking through at a crack to gain a ledge. Climb the cracks and wall above to a belay.
3) 13m. From the right side of the ledge take the easiest line to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

James corfe 25/Aug AltLd

Lots of manky hoping bugs on p2 in a crack must be like 1000 of them gross but good climb

fweatherall1 24/Aug AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug Lead O/S
Ben1983 06/Aug AltLd O/S

From ash can gully.

hazeysunshine 12/Jul AltLd O/S
with Andy K
tompilgrem 31/May AltLd O/S

Traversed in from ash can gully at high tide

with Dad
bobpilgrem 31/May AltLd O/S

Traversed in from Ash Can Gully .Awkward traverse under nose/roof on top pitch.

with Tom
maria85 25/May AltLd O/S
with Neil
lizbarilepage 14/May 2nd
with Paul Seabrook
Clay C 29/Apr AltLd O/S
with Steve C
featuresforfeet 15/Apr Lead
with Jimbo
EllieWoods 17/Mar AltLd O/S

From high tide belay. Led main pitch.

with Leo
Gympaul 30/Dec/16 Lead
with Clive
andy_pemberton 26/Nov/16 Lead

Hanging belay on pitch 1 with wet feet. Unlike many of the other posts here, I thought it was great.

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
manbat 07/Jul/16 AltLd

Was underwhelmed by this route, and don't think it deserves any stars. I led P2. One thoughtful move going around the slabby arete on P2, and one thoughtful move going around the overhang on P3. Other than that very easy. Worth VS 4c because of those moves.

Lumbering Oaf 07/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

I'd forgotten what this route was like and on a second helping I wish I'd remembered it was crap and climbed something else.

joeruckus 05/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
Tubs 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

I appear to be in the minority but I thought this was a poor, unbalanced route. Severe with two 4c moves.

Vilius A. 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

1st pitch skipper due to tide. Lead 2nd pitch

with Khalid
Hidden 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/16 AltLd O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 13/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
Hidden 13/Mar/16 AltLd
dready 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
whiteexplorer 11/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with joe
ChrisGard 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
K_Maywood 12/Sep/15 Lead
Pete Randall 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
cathymiller 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Missed out P1 as tide was coming in. P2 didn't seem all that hard.

rd20 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

RD P2&4

with Patrick
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
NickJH 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/15 AltLd
with Richard Jewell, Solly Kemball Dorey
Hidden 09/Jul/15 AltLd
beni 04/Jul/15 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Bit splashy at the bottom so I lead the traverse pitch in, beni did the middle pitch and I lead out

with Beni
Alison Cairns 04/Jul/15 AltLd rpt

Traversed in to 1st belay then led p2 and most of p3 together - an excellent pitch. Makes more sense done this way as you belay just after all the hard climbing but before rope drag sets in. The rest of the climb is a bit wander.

with Andy
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ad111 17/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd O/S
Mayo 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Stocker
clams ?/Apr/15 Lead

After initial thin crack and awkward move L, stuck in two large cams and did a precarious traverse R and then ran it out up a slabby groove to the mantelshelf. Not sure if this was right way but felt bold for VS.

CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd
with clams
BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
Ian Miller 10/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S

P2 was great but rest was a bit rubbish in comparison!

with Ian M
derekm 11/Sep/14 AltLd

I see we're not alone in going too high on that traverse towards the main face.... beware! It's really a slight descent from the top of the initial crack of pitch 1. Lovely climb though

dkd 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Al
JP78 28/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/14 AltLd
Bob M 27/May/14 AltLd

Started from sea level at low tide. First pitch a bit greasy and as hard as anything else on the route.

Norman_P_W 27/May/14 AltLd
with Bob M
Neil D 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Nexonen 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and 3 only

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Missed p1 due to high tide

with Andy J
AliceKerr ?/May/14 Lead
Lumbering Oaf 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S

A rather meandering line. Don't go too high on P1 or you'll end up down climbing to get into the grooves of P2

with Julian, Rach Spraggs
Batt 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1&3. Rubbish.

spragglerocks 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1 - a bit damp!

Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 03/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
kitkat78 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S


with SteveM
SteveM 22/Aug/13 AltLd
with Kat
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
natalio 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Went down with high tide, had to start at the beginning of p2, after a tricky traverse to reach the right crack. Chris led that pitch, the 4c one. I did p2, an easy climb.

with Chris B
Hidden 23/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead
elbeanio ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2013 -
jezb1 04/Jun/12 AltLd

Lead p2 and p3, surprisingly good.

The Ivanator 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Very nice main pitch.

with Jez
Dunx 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
joeym 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
tomshanti 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

me p1+3,max p2+4.belayed in the higher corner on p1 leading to a more delicate traverse!lovely exposed p2-very photogenic.extremely awkward/delicate traverse under the overhang on p3.Great climb

Max Streeton 06/May/12 AltLd
monsteratt 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Left guide book at top so had to make it up a bit. Chris lead p1 and p3 me p2. Went too far right on second pitch.

with Chris Goddard
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
mikemontain ??/2012 -
with alison williams
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
mark sharples 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
crobinson 21/Jul/11 AltLd

2nd pitch very exciting and exposed

with Southern Man
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Em66 01/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Kirill 29/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
CrispsSmiths 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Kirill
Jonesy_A 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jchenoweth 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jonesee
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd
DOVEY 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jake.P+ Billie
pudding 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

didnt do first pitch as tide was in

with john phethean
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Bob Peters ??/2011 -
with Dad
Bob M 25/Oct/10 AltLd
Jim Slater 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

brockers 01/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd
steve2006 ?/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Frostie 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Roy Harris
Geoffers ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 19/Aug/09 AltLd
Pete Nugent ?/Aug/09 Lead

Can be approached ven in high seas/high tides. An excellent route

with Mark "Sparky" Adams
beaumap 25/Jul/09 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd
mikehenesy 03/May/09 AltLd O/S


with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 03/May/09 Lead
mreynolds 03/May/09 2nd O/S
petegruf 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

missed out first pitch because of tide

with giovanna
Kirill 11/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

led the traverse pitch, very happy!! rob then led 3rd pitch and stayed on route unlike me last time :)

Bob M 05/Apr/09 AltLd
Norman_P_W 05/Apr/09 AltLd
with Bob M
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Missed 1st pitch due to tide (climbed it for start of another route later) pitches 2 and 3 are fantastic, missed out last easy pitch to get to Flannel Avenue :)

Paz 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

P2&3 in trainers. At high tide this is really atmospheric.

with TS2
Huntlyfiddler 30/Jul/07 2nd
bpmclimb 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Good varied climb with an interesting traverse pitch.

with Clare
zcapxa5 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Prady, Gab Morrison
Hidden 10/Jun/07 AltLd
cem 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p2. We strayed a bit off route after that

Kirill 08/Apr/07 AltLd dnf

got lost, lovely climb otherwise.

with Ryan, Charles Moreton
maresia 03/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
trevor macalonan 22/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Boxy 06/Aug/05 AltLd
with Aus
Bob M 28/May/05 AltLd
Bob M 30/May/04 2nd
Norman_P_W 30/May/04 Lead
with Bob M
timreynolds 01/May/04 Lead
Bob M 04/Jun/02 AltLd

miss out first pitch

Norman_P_W 04/Jun/02 AltLd
with Bob M
Hidden 03/Jun/02 AltLd
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/98 Lead

Another route you can start on pitch 2 when sea is high.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Bob M 24/May/98 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
tompercy ?/Mar/96 -
with Amos Preminger
Hidden 27/Aug/94 Lead O/S
colin milton 06/Aug/94 AltLd
with eric milton
GAtkins 01/Apr/92 2nd O/S
with Nick Stenning
auld al ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
whispering nic 30/Mar/91 AltLd
with Ali W
John Roe ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with John Roe
biggianthead ?/Jun/90 -
with C
Tony Buckley ?/May/87 -
with Richard Brockman
RichardMc 19/Apr/87 AltLd
with Tim Oakes
Hidden 26/May/86 Lead
Nigel Bond 07/Oct/84 Lead
with Nick
Hidden 29/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 11/Apr/82 Lead
with Jon --?
Hidden 03/Apr/80 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1980 AltLd

Approx date

with Ian Birch
Bolt Phobia 09/Apr/76 AltLd
with John Broadwell
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
jon 24/Dec/73 Lead
with bob l
Martin Bennett 31/Jul/73 -
with Maggie Dow
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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