Rockfax Description
A perfectly-positioned middle pitch and less busy than some of the other lines in the area. The first stance at the start of the best climbing is easily reached at high tide by traversing across and down to it from the lower part of Ash Can Gully (Sev). Start at a thin crack right of the bottom of Ash Can Gully and just to the left of a small corner.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the thin crack and work up rightwards to a ledge and belay next to an arete on the right.
2) 4c, 22m. Traverse right to double converging cracks and follow these to a good ledge. Take the crack on the left to the overhang and make a short, awkward traverse left beneath it before breaking through at a crack to gain a ledge. Climb the cracks and wall above to a belay.
3) 13m. From the right side of the ledge take the easiest line to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, South West Classic VS's, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tracyclimber 7 Sep AltLd
KernowCrag 7 Sep AltLd
Dilwat 5 Sep AltLd O/S
with Ribbit
with Ribbit
gjd 31 Aug AltLd O/S
with Sam Burns
with Sam Burns
nuts and bolts 31 Aug AltLd O/S
with Brian Hodgson
with Brian Hodgson
Hidden 31 Aug AltLd O/S
AndyMorrall 24 Aug 2nd matt too
matt too
andy bisson 24 Aug Lead
ACumpstey 24 Aug Lead O/S
with Tom Geliot, ejm64
with Tom Geliot, ejm64
The_Boy_ODwyer 3 Aug AltLd O/S
inspiration_needed 3 Aug AltLd 1st and 3rd leads. All felt quite easy. James did 2 and 4. Cc guidebook has 4 pitches. Middle two are 4c
1st and 3rd leads. All felt quite easy. James did 2 and 4. Cc guidebook has 4 pitches. Middle two are 4c
scott titt 6 Jul AltLd
Julian Prieto 6 Jul AltLd O/S Climbed in 4 pitches as described in CC guide. Led P1,3
Climbed in 4 pitches as described in CC guide. Led P1,3
climbdevon 25 May -
Hidden 5 May AltLd rpt
Buccaneerbilly 5 May AltLd O/S I had a massive head game on this as the first pitch was so run out from just before the crux.
with Chris Lodge
I had a massive head game on this as the first pitch was so run out from just before the crux.
with Chris Lodge
mtempest 20 Apr AltLd Led P1 & 3
Led P1 & 3
yllo 20 Apr AltLd Fun traverse.
Fun traverse.
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20 Apr AltLd
Hidden 19 Apr AltLd O/S
rurp 29 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Pretty run out on pitch 1. Maybe 25ft above cam and fifty above the deck.... Otherwise great fun in the hairy jungle
with ben rowland
Pretty run out on pitch 1. Maybe 25ft above cam and fifty above the deck.... Otherwise great fun in the hairy jungle
with ben rowland
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 -
kenhansard 9 Sep, 2018 -
jon_gill1 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Me p1 and p3 underwhelming and runout 1st pitch....
with jigi
Me p1 and p3 underwhelming and runout 1st pitch....
with jigi
GuyC 5 May, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Jon Bell
with Jon Bell
Max Streeton 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd
with Norman wright
with Norman wright
Norman_P_W 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd
with Max S
with Max S
ClimbingAlex 3 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Thought this was rather underwhelming, maybe worth one star. P1 run out and greasy, P2 awkward traverse under overhang. Would not recommend.
Thought this was rather underwhelming, maybe worth one star. P1 run out and greasy, P2 awkward traverse under overhang. Would not recommend.
Matt Magecha 3 Dec, 2017 AltLd
adam clarke 2 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Led p2. p1 no pushover at 4b with a bit of a runout after surmounting the cracks. Climbing on p2 simply superb - care with ropework recommended
with Adam Lynch
Led p2. p1 no pushover at 4b with a bit of a runout after surmounting the cracks. Climbing on p2 simply superb - care with ropework recommended
with Adam Lynch
James corfe 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd Lots of manky hoping bugs on p2 in a crack must be like 1000 of them gross but good climb
Lots of manky hoping bugs on p2 in a crack must be like 1000 of them gross but good climb
fweatherall1 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Ben1983 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S From ash can gully.
From ash can gully.
hazeysunshine 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Andy K
with Andy K
tompilgrem 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Traversed in from ash can gully at high tide
Traversed in from ash can gully at high tide
bobpilgrem 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Traversed in from Ash Can Gully .Awkward traverse under nose/roof on top pitch.
with Tom
Traversed in from Ash Can Gully .Awkward traverse under nose/roof on top pitch.
with Tom
maria85 25 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
lizbarilepage 14 May, 2017 2nd
with Paul Seabrook
with Paul Seabrook
Hidden 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
featuresforfeet 15 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Jimbo
with Jimbo
EllieWoods 17 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S From high tide belay. Led main pitch.
From high tide belay. Led main pitch.
Gympaul 30 Dec, 2016 Lead
with Clive
with Clive
andy_pemberton 26 Nov, 2016 Lead Hanging belay on pitch 1 with wet feet. Unlike many of the other posts here, I thought it was great.
with Dave Marshall
Hanging belay on pitch 1 with wet feet. Unlike many of the other posts here, I thought it was great.
with Dave Marshall
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Chimnastics 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd Was underwhelmed by this route, and don't think it deserves any stars. I led P2. One thoughtful move going around the slabby arete on P2, and one thoughtful move going around the overhang on P3. Other than that very easy. Worth VS 4c because of those moves.
Was underwhelmed by this route, and don't think it deserves any stars. I led P2. One thoughtful move going around the slabby arete on P2, and one thoughtful move going around the overhang on P3. Other than that very easy. Worth VS 4c because of those moves.
Lumbering Oaf 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt I'd forgotten what this route was like and on a second helping I wish I'd remembered it was crap and climbed something else.
I'd forgotten what this route was like and on a second helping I wish I'd remembered it was crap and climbed something else.
joeruckus 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt
Tubs 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S I appear to be in the minority but I thought this was a poor, unbalanced route. Severe with two 4c moves.
I appear to be in the minority but I thought this was a poor, unbalanced route. Severe with two 4c moves.
Vilius A. 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S 1st pitch skipper due to tide. Lead 2nd pitch
with Khalid
1st pitch skipper due to tide. Lead 2nd pitch
with Khalid
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 AltLd
th£wrecker 11 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
whiteexplorer 11 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
ChrisGard 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
K_Maywood 12 Sep, 2015 Lead
Pete Randall 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with JulianB
with JulianB
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
cathymiller 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Missed out P1 as tide was coming in. P2 didn't seem all that hard.
with peaky
Missed out P1 as tide was coming in. P2 didn't seem all that hard.
with peaky
rd20 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S RD P2&4
RD P2&4
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
NickJH 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
Mark Kemball 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Richard Jewell, Solomon Kemball Dorey
with Richard Jewell, Solomon Kemball Dorey
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd
beni 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Bit splashy at the bottom so I lead the traverse pitch in, beni did the middle pitch and I lead out
with beni
Bit splashy at the bottom so I lead the traverse pitch in, beni did the middle pitch and I lead out
with beni
Alison Cairns 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd rpt Traversed in to 1st belay then led p2 and most of p3 together - an excellent pitch. Makes more sense done this way as you belay just after all the hard climbing but before rope drag sets in. The rest of the climb is a bit wander.
Traversed in to 1st belay then led p2 and most of p3 together - an excellent pitch. Makes more sense done this way as you belay just after all the hard climbing but before rope drag sets in. The rest of the climb is a bit wander.
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
ad111 17 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 16 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with climbEdclimb, Adam Bloch
with climbEdclimb, Adam Bloch
Hidden 4 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Mayo 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Stocker
with Stocker
clams ?Apr, 2015 Lead After initial thin crack and awkward move L, stuck in two large cams and did a precarious traverse R and then ran it out up a slabby groove to the mantelshelf. Not sure if this was right way but felt bold for VS.
with CatMc
After initial thin crack and awkward move L, stuck in two large cams and did a precarious traverse R and then ran it out up a slabby groove to the mantelshelf. Not sure if this was right way but felt bold for VS.
with CatMc
CatMc ?Apr, 2015 2nd
with clams
with clams
BushwackerBritz ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Thom Wright
with Thom Wright
Ian Miller 10 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 10 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S P2 was great but rest was a bit rubbish in comparison!
P2 was great but rest was a bit rubbish in comparison!
derekm 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd I see we're not alone in going too high on that traverse towards the main face.... beware! It's really a slight descent from the top of the initial crack of pitch 1. Lovely climb though
I see we're not alone in going too high on that traverse towards the main face.... beware! It's really a slight descent from the top of the initial crack of pitch 1. Lovely climb though
dkd 13 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
JP78 28 May, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 28 May, 2014 AltLd
Bob M 27 May, 2014 AltLd Started from sea level at low tide. First pitch a bit greasy and as hard as anything else on the route.
Started from sea level at low tide. First pitch a bit greasy and as hard as anything else on the route.
Norman_P_W 27 May, 2014 AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Neil D 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Betha.
with Betha.
Nexonen 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P2 and 3 only
with Sophie
P2 and 3 only
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Missed p1 due to high tide
with Andy J
Missed p1 due to high tide
with Andy J
AliceKerr ?May, 2014 Lead
Lumbering Oaf 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S A rather meandering line. Don't go too high on P1 or you'll end up down climbing to get into the grooves of P2
with Julian, spragglerocks
A rather meandering line. Don't go too high on P1 or you'll end up down climbing to get into the grooves of P2
with Julian, spragglerocks
Batt 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1&3. Rubbish.
with sim0n
Lead P1&3. Rubbish.
with sim0n
spragglerocks 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p1 - a bit damp!
Led p1 - a bit damp!
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd
kitkat78 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S P2
with SteveM
P2
with SteveM
SteveM 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
natalio 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Went down with high tide, had to start at the beginning of p2, after a tricky traverse to reach the right crack. Chris led that pitch, the 4c one. I did p2, an easy climb.
with Chris B
Went down with high tide, had to start at the beginning of p2, after a tricky traverse to reach the right crack. Chris led that pitch, the 4c one. I did p2, an easy climb.
with Chris B
Hidden 23 May, 2013 Lead O/S
bigrob 4 May, 2013 Lead
with harri honan
with harri honan
elbeanio ?Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
PAJames ??, 2013 -
jezb1 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd Lead p2 and p3, surprisingly good.
Lead p2 and p3, surprisingly good.
The Ivanator 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Very nice main pitch.
with jezb1
Very nice main pitch.
with jezb1
Dunx 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with joeym
with joeym
joeym 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Dunx
with Dunx
tomshanti 6 May, 2012 AltLd O/S me p1+3,max p2+4.belayed in the higher corner on p1 leading to a more delicate traverse!lovely exposed p2-very photogenic.extremely awkward/delicate traverse under the overhang on p3.Great climb
me p1+3,max p2+4.belayed in the higher corner on p1 leading to a more delicate traverse!lovely exposed p2-very photogenic.extremely awkward/delicate traverse under the overhang on p3.Great climb
Max Streeton 6 May, 2012 AltLd
monsteratt 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Left guide book at top so had to make it up a bit. Chris lead p1 and p3 me p2. Went too far right on second pitch.
with Chris Goddard
Left guide book at top so had to make it up a bit. Chris lead p1 and p3 me p2. Went too far right on second pitch.
with Chris Goddard
Hidden 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
mikemontain ??, 2012 -
with alison williams
with alison williams
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
mark sharples 20 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
crobinson 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd 2nd pitch very exciting and exposed
with Southern Man
2nd pitch very exciting and exposed
with Southern Man
Tom Last 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Fantastic - amazing exposure.
Fantastic - amazing exposure.
Em66 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Freg1
with Freg1
Kirill 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
CrispsSmiths 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Jonesy_A 24 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
jchenoweth 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jonesee
with Jonesee
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 2nd
DOVEY 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jake.P+ Billie
with Jake.P+ Billie
pudding 3 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S didnt do first pitch as tide was in
with john phethean
didnt do first pitch as tide was in
with john phethean
David Sherratt ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Bob Peters ??, 2011 -
Bob M 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Jim Slater 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
Pete Wimbush 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 (4c)
Led pitch 2 (4c)
brockers 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd
steve2006 ?Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden ?May, 2010 AltLd
Frostie 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Roy Harris
with Roy Harris
Geoffers ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 19 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Pete Nugent ?Aug, 2009 Lead Can be approached ven in high seas/high tides. An excellent route
with Mark "Sparky" Adams
Can be approached ven in high seas/high tides. An excellent route
with Mark "Sparky" Adams
beaumap 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
with Tim Waddington
bigrob 3 Jun, 2009 AltLd missed pitch 1 due to tide, travesed in fom giants steps, i led pitch 1 and lon pitch 2 caz led easy pitch 3
with caz neely
missed pitch 1 due to tide, travesed in fom giants steps, i led pitch 1 and lon pitch 2 caz led easy pitch 3
with caz neely
mikehenesy 3 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Thrilling
with Tim Reynolds
Thrilling
with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 3 May, 2009 Lead
mreynolds 3 May, 2009 2nd O/S
petegruf 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S missed out first pitch because of tide
with giovanna
missed out first pitch because of tide
with giovanna
Kirill 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd rpt led the traverse pitch, very happy!! rob then led 3rd pitch and stayed on route unlike me last time :)
with Ketu
led the traverse pitch, very happy!! rob then led 3rd pitch and stayed on route unlike me last time :)
with Ketu
Hidden 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
Bob M 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Norman_P_W 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Hidden 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S Missed 1st pitch due to tide (climbed it for start of another route later) pitches 2 and 3 are fantastic, missed out last easy pitch to get to Flannel Avenue :)
Missed 1st pitch due to tide (climbed it for start of another route later) pitches 2 and 3 are fantastic, missed out last easy pitch to get to Flannel Avenue :)
Paz 5 May, 2008 AltLd O/S P2&3 in trainers. At high tide this is really atmospheric.
with TS2
P2&3 in trainers. At high tide this is really atmospheric.
with TS2
Huntlyfiddler 30 Jul, 2007 2nd
bpmclimb 30 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S Good varied climb with an interesting traverse pitch.
Good varied climb with an interesting traverse pitch.
zcapxa5 12 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Dave Prady, Gab Morrison
with Dave Prady, Gab Morrison
Hidden 10 Jun, 2007 AltLd
cem 8 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Led p2. We strayed a bit off route after that
with Kirill, Ryan
Led p2. We strayed a bit off route after that
with Kirill, Ryan
Kirill 8 Apr, 2007 AltLd dnf got lost, lovely climb otherwise.
with Ryan, cem
got lost, lovely climb otherwise.
with Ryan, cem
maresia 3 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
trevor macalonan 22 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Boxy 6 Aug, 2005 AltLd
with Aus
with Aus
Bob M 28 May, 2005 AltLd
Bob M 30 May, 2004 2nd
Norman_P_W 30 May, 2004 Lead
with Bob M
with Bob M
timreynolds 1 May, 2004 Lead
lundyman 18 Apr, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Guy Reid
with Guy Reid
GuyC 25 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden ?Aug, 2002 AltLd
Bob M 4 Jun, 2002 AltLd miss out first pitch
miss out first pitch
Norman_P_W 4 Jun, 2002 AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Hidden 3 Jun, 2002 AltLd
Steveb27 ??, 2000 AltLd
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Rog Wilko ?Aug, 1998 Lead Another route you can start on pitch 2 when sea is high.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Another route you can start on pitch 2 when sea is high.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Bob M 24 May, 1998 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
with Jill Stevens
Iain Brown 13 Apr, 1998 -
with Phil
with Phil
Nettle 31 Mar, 1998 AltLd O/S * - 220ft - Bill Billingsley 4c, 4c
with Bill Billingsley
* - 220ft - Bill Billingsley 4c, 4c
with Bill Billingsley
belay bunny turned bad ??, 1997 Lead
tompercy ?Mar, 1996 -
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
Hidden 27 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
colin milton 6 Aug, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
Neil McA 18 Apr, 1992 AltLd O/S as a consolation prize
with Andy Perkins
as a consolation prize
with Andy Perkins
GAtkins 1 Apr, 1992 2nd O/S
with Nick Stenning
with Nick Stenning
Steve Claw ??, 1992 -
auld al ?Apr, 1991 AltLd O/S
whispering nic 30 Mar, 1991 AltLd
with Ali W
with Ali W
John Roe ?Aug, 1990 AltLd
with Nige Hughes
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?Aug, 1990 AltLd
with John Roe
with John Roe
biggianthead ?Jun, 1990 -
with C
with C
Tony Buckley ?May, 1987 -
with Richard Brockman
with Richard Brockman
RichardMc 19 Apr, 1987 AltLd
with Tim Oakes
with Tim Oakes
Hidden 26 May, 1986 Lead
Nigel Bond 7 Oct, 1984 Lead
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden 29 Jul, 1984 Lead
Hidden 7 Aug, 1983 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 11 Apr, 1982 Lead
with Jon --?
with Jon --?
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1980 AltLd
with Ian Freebie
with Ian Freebie
Hidden 3 Apr, 1980 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe ??, 1980 AltLd Approx date
with Ian Birch
Approx date
with Ian Birch
Brian Wilderspin ?Aug, 1978 AltLd O/S
Bolt Phobia 9 Apr, 1976 AltLd
with John Broadwell
with John Broadwell
Hidden ??, 1976 -
Hidden 24 Dec, 1973 Lead
Martin Bennett 31 Jul, 1973 -
with Maggie Dow
with Maggie Dow
Rick51 19 Aug, 1971 AltLd
24 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 29
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set