Rockfax Description
The large triangular overhang is a bit of a one-move-wonder. Fix runners to left and right (or better - don't bother) then cross the flakes rightwards to hard moves round the lip and an anticlimactic finish. Low in both grades. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Gibson 1979.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Daniel Grout | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Absolute bargain at E4, more like E2. Cut loose is totally awesome | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute bargain at E4, more like E2. Cut loose is totally awesome |
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robert mirfin | 9 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Yes I couldn`t understand why people do all that faffing with runners halfway up other routes? the cams are fine in the flakes on the left. Still think E4 5c is the right grade wouldn`t want to fall off from the lip | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yes I couldn`t understand why people do all that faffing with runners halfway up other routes? the cams are fine in the flakes on the left. Still think E4 5c is the right grade wouldn`t want to fall off from the lip |
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Fiend | 7 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Gear in Bachelor's Buttress is not needed - there are perfect small cams in deep, solid flakes at the start of the roof climbing. Done this way it makes an easy E3. In fact one should really miss out faffing around with gear in Sauls, and it would still be (slightly stiffer) E3. Now that's cleared up, this is a pretty cool climb on great holds, with fun campussing opportunities. Neither a one move wonder, nor is the lip any harder than the rest. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gear in Bachelor's Buttress is not needed - there are perfect small cams in deep, solid flakes at the start of the roof climbing. Done this way it makes an easy E3. In fact one should really miss out faffing around with gear in Sauls, and it would still be (slightly stiffer) E3. Now that's cleared up, this is a pretty cool climb on great holds, with fun campussing opportunities. Neither a one move wonder, nor is the lip any harder than the rest. |
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mark s | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: agree with tom.more like e3 5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: agree with tom.more like e3 5b. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)