Rockfax Description
An eliminate line but a good addition. Start up either of the Christmas Curry routes and climb them to the large ledge. Climb the groove above the left-side of the ledge then work up left to join CC/ME until level with a large roof (possible belay).
Place a side runner higher up, then move back down and step right above the roof to stand on a good foothold. Commit to the move to gain the base of the off-width flake on The Plum. Gain the horizontal crack on the left and move left into CC/ME. From the perched flake on CC/ME climb straight up to gain a crack that eventually rejoins the arete near the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An OK eliminate in the main part but the brambles at the base and a hard to onsight section left of The Plum off-width, means that several parties have failed to repeat the route as described. The description here covers the original description but also gives hints as to slight eliminates to this eliminate.
The route effective starts from a ledge where Christmas Curry traverses left. There is a thin groove, head up this to the brambles, the original line went to the left of this and then over a small roof and then up to the big roof where it moved left into Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate by the base of a groove. If the brambles get in the way then an easier but just as direct option is to climb direct up the left side of the groove to reach the same point below the base of the groove on Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate. From here make a step up onto a protrusion and then climb the thin wall with no gear until you reach the Flake on The Plum. Then head up to the base of the off-width on that route.
Again the original stepped left via the horizontal break (small thread and cams) and then headed very boldly up the wall to the left of the off-width (it feels way hard than E2 5c). This is very hard to read and desperate for E2 5c, and most people repeating this seem to reach left into Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate and follow that to where the Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate traverse right to the arete. Where Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate traverses right to the arete, head straight up a crack to join the arete of the The Plum by the spike near its top. A better way to finish this route would be to link it into The Plum from the bottom of the Off-width.
IA Jones 27/Apr/2010.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Reeves | 1 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A total eliminate, almost in places for its own sake. Like most people, I could not do the start to the right of the brambles because I could get past them, but heading to their left was fine almost as direct way to reach the base of the CCMF groove. The wall to the right of the CC Micah Finish groove was excellent, bold and thin climbing. When I got to below the off-width and stepped left, I spent an age trying to work out the moves to reach the rampline above. In the end I gave up and I stepped down and moved left into Micah Eliminate until I gained the finishing crack. Personally, in retrospect a better way to finish this would be to combine the start to the Plum Off-Width and then link into the Plum to the top. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A total eliminate, almost in places for its own sake. Like most people, I could not do the start to the right of the brambles because I could get past them, but heading to their left was fine almost as direct way to reach the base of the CCMF groove. The wall to the right of the CC Micah Finish groove was excellent, bold and thin climbing. When I got to below the off-width and stepped left, I spent an age trying to work out the moves to reach the rampline above. In the end I gave up and I stepped down and moved left into Micah Eliminate until I gained the finishing crack. Personally, in retrospect a better way to finish this would be to combine the start to the Plum Off-Width and then link into the Plum to the top. |
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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Leg Break/Blinkers
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))