Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 26/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist.

kirstypallas 02/Sep 2nd
with Barry
Barry Harper 02/Sep Lead O/S

Didn't get the hidden jug. Definitely felt E3 to me.

greenclimb 01/Sep Lead O/S
with Sarah
Butel 31/Aug Lead O/S

Pumped. Finished direct as it seemed logical. Great route and end to the trip.

with Em Twiddles , John Bunney
Hannes B 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Sarah A
Hidden 29/Aug 2nd
J_Spooner 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Ben Smart
khalidq 29/Aug 2nd rpt
with Hywel Rowlands
Ursula 26/Aug 2nd O/S

Bit pumpy but probably happy to lead it at some point

with Joe
blaza1 26/Aug Lead O/S
with liam jones
Hidden 24/Aug 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Aug Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 20/Aug 2nd rpt

Nice to get this clean, still hard for me.

Ian MK 10/Aug Lead O/S
with Anna
Matt Harle 06/Aug Lead O/S
with Dad
Euan Todd 05/Aug 2nd O/S

Wow, the arete of this route is pretty striking! Little tricky lower down, then steadier on jugs till a haaard move to the top jug on the arete. Good lead by David, he flew up it! Absolutely first class route.

DavidMcK 05/Aug Lead O/S

Too steep to be E2 and to juggy to be E3.

with Euan Todd
MJHarle 04/Aug -
with Matt
Neil Adams 29/Jul Lead G/U

Pumped out on the crux first go. Pulled the ropes & led it clean.

andyinglis 29/Jul 2nd
Bristoldave 23/Jul Lead O/S
with Luke
brunomarks 14/Jul Lead O/S

Nice route. Apparently a good hidden crimp above jug at crux but I didn't use.

with Luke Allin
Dave Lyon 14/Jul -
with Mills
Hidden 14/Jul 2nd rpt
Stanners 14/Jul Lead O/S

alright I suppose. Good start to weekend banter bus for Ericas b day reuniting the Fair head team + rainy tom!!!

with Tom Rogers, Kel Vargas
Longsufferingropeholder 13/Jul Lead β

Built this up in my head and got all nervous about it. No need. Cheeky sideways nut a couple feet above the jug made it feel nice and safe, and the one stiff move was easier than it looks.

with C May
C May 13/Jul 2nd dog
with Tim
Nickc 12/Jul Lead O/S
with Simon lee
ukb & bmc shark 12/Jul 2nd
with Nick Conway
GPN 09/Jul Lead O/S
with Annette
eb202 08/Jul 2nd dog

Wearing a jacket was a bad idea. Hung around too long and spent too much time chalking sweaty hands.

with Michael
Mike505 08/Jul Lead O/S

Great line in a brilliant position, I thought it was a bit of a gift at the grade, however someone did point out that a fall post crux before gear is found wouldn't be pleasant, so with that in mind maybe the grade is justified...

Katekeltie 02/Jul Lead O/S
with Fatboy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 02/Jul 2nd rpt
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 02/Jul Lead rpt
penny.orr 02/Jul 2nd
Wendy Watthews 01/Jul 2nd O/S
with Abby
aiyer 01/Jul Lead β

Secret gear by the thank god jug...

with Wendy
Hidden 25/Jun Lead G/U
aiyer 25/Jun 2nd
with JakeB.
BRoe 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Millard
Will Mortimer 17/Jun 2nd rpt

Dont know what all the fuss is about.... on second.

with Derwood
Duncan Campbell 17/Jun 2nd rpt
with Sophie Keltie
dbrooks 17/Jun Lead O/S


with Will
harry_lewis 16/Jun Lead β

might've done the direct by mistake? not sure - probably felt more e3 than e2

MSchobitz 16/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd dog
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 04/Jun Lead rpt
with Windy
Holister 04/Jun Lead O/S

Great route

with Ali
Hidden 01/Jun Lead O/S
D.Russell 01/Jun 2nd rpt
with Adam
Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
The Grist 30/May 2nd
MSchobitz 29/May Lead O/S

Apparently I did it the peak-lime way, with a deeeep lock. Not E3 though!

amccann 29/May 2nd rpt
with Micki
Misha 29/May 2nd rpt

Fun to second on the best holds in Pembroke!

with Phil
Stroppy 29/May Lead O/S

Cruxxxy but very aesthetic

Sam Husband 29/May 2nd O/S

Not easy until the hard bit, but the hard bit is quite hard. Reminded me of now or never in the Peak (which is only E1 mind).

with Ed
Wendy 29/May Lead β
with Gaz
philhilo 29/May Lead O/S

Ace route - too run out to be E2 so E3.

with misha
Hidden 26/May Lead β
nathanlee 26/May 2nd rpt
with Heather
HeatherF 26/May Lead rpt

Seconded Duncan up this ages ago, nice to lead it

with Nathan
Hidden 07/May 2nd dog
Will Mortimer 07/May Lead dog
pie_eater_pete 05/May 2nd rpt
with bwestwood
bwestwood 05/May Lead
Timothy Miller 22/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr Lead O/S
davkeo 22/Apr Lead O/S

Fantastic climb. Steady up to the jug where I hung around for quite a while. Last gear placed below the jug so the move out the the arete felt full value & the situation there will be hard to beat. Lots of consecutive days climbing now so everything feels hard & pumpy to me but there's just so much to do here!

Jake Young 21/Apr Lead rpt

spent ages making the bomb shelter, cruised the crux. then shook my way up the easier top section.

with Shaun
JamesWilliams 20/Apr Lead RP

3rd time lucky. easy when you know how! felt mega fresh getting to the jug, cruised the crux and stayed calm on the arete! SOFT!

JamesWilliams 18/Apr Lead dog

Freaked out on the arête again but felt fresh through all the moves to the arête jug then got mega fear pumped did not want to take the ride into the arête again.

JamesWilliams 17/Apr Lead dog

Fuuuuuuuuuuuk took a mega ride after getting gripped out my mind on the arête! Scary position to get pumped in.

Mark Pickrell 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dick
Hidden 17/Apr Lead
shaunhumphreys 16/Apr Lead rpt

Steadyyy, E2

pete1993 16/Apr 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Hidden 15/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd dog
Elliot Walker 15/Apr Lead O/S
mrteale 15/Apr 2nd rpt
with Alex B
Gus 15/Apr Lead

With a 9 pint hangover

pete johnson 15/Apr 2nd rpt
with Elliot
bede.west 14/Apr Lead O/S

cool! [but yeah E2.5?]

Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2017 -
ian bryant ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
The old James turnbull 22/Oct/16 2nd
with aiden
andyinglis 10/Oct/16 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
Chris_barr 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Jo
Dale Comley 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S

First Pembroke lead. Jug at 2/3 height was full to the brim with water, decent climbing though.

Charlie Low 04/Sep/16 2nd dog
cpforbes 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 28/Aug/16 Lead

Came off the thin-ish moves above the arete jug. Gutted to not get the onsight but was a good fall non the less and got it cleanly after that. Low end E3 in my books just cause of the exposure of being on that narrow arete.

Mike W 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with chris
williap 27/Aug/16 2nd dog
Lenny 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Hidden
beni 27/Aug/16 Lead
with Jess
Jess Carr 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Beni
scottcoates 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with williap
amccann 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Shaun H
Chriswallis2 23/Aug/16 Lead β
with Mike W
M_Robinson 18/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Shepherd, Adam Bowman
Adam24B 18/Aug/16 2nd
with Mike Robinson, Chris Shepherd
matt1024 13/Aug/16 2nd β
with Chrissy, Luke Doherty
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
pete johnson 08/Aug/16 2nd rpt
shed_hed 07/Aug/16 2nd rpt
robpartridge 07/Aug/16 Lead
AlexD 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Tougher and easier than expected!

with Ed
Jack93 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Chris Redding 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

First E3. Was quite pumped on the rest hold before the crux. Got 4 pieces of gear before I relaxed and started to recover.

Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Ed
Tom Pillow 20/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Damn it, found the wrong hold after the crux and though that was the jug. ended up falling off. took wipper, Jake flew up, hit arete.... should have just gone for next moves instead of clinging to shit slopper to place cam. Need to do more endurance training and rack differently.

with jake, Luke Richardson, Will Rivers
Hidden 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S
WB 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

this was actually a repeat, but faded memories are not always right...

markalmack 03/Jul/16 2nd rpt

trickier than i remembered

James S 02/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Will Bristol
WillAndrew 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First E3(ish)!

with James S
Billg 02/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
W d c 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Airy, with gear.

with BILL G
Hugobristol 24/Jun/16 Lead dnf

First attempt reached the hold on the arete but went back right and fell off the direct crimps. Second and third goes failed as i pumped out trying to place gear around the arete before committing to the layback sequence. Great route though- one i will be back for.

with Eleanor
Jack93 24/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Awesome route! Seconded it and then immediately came back down to lead it

j_aaake 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S
mrteale 21/Jun/16 Lead RP

Got to the jug on the onsight attempt and found it full of rainwater, both hands soaking and didn't feel secure enough to do the crux. Ab'ed the line, dried out the hold and sent it next go.

with Tom
Hidden 17/Jun/16 2nd
rurp 03/Jun/16 -

Steep but great holds. Hard to left and harder to gain next two feet!

Jonny Nick 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Mega.. First E3...maybe (or E2.5 at least!)

steve_gibbs 30/May/16 2nd dog
with Random Climber
Richard Kendrick 30/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/May/16 TR O/S
Leedearden 28/May/16 2nd O/S
NDD 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead
Richard Kendrick 25/May/16 2nd rpt
jon_gill1 25/May/16 Lead dog

got pumped and took the whipper from high on the arete after the crux,bit gutted but glad to get on it at last!

brices 08/May/16 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great route, quite similar to L'horla at Curbar.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/16 2nd
Stefan_Morris 27/Apr/16 Lead O/S
dobby 200 13/Apr/16 Lead dog

I hung around at the jug for too long trying to figure out the arête, then fell off after greassing off the next brake

with Tom H
Adam24B 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great route, I think it might deserve E3 because of the run-out but the moves aren't massively difficult.

Ramon Marin 05/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ramon
Hidden 18/Mar/16 2nd
Luke Brooks 18/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Kate
neilh ??/2016 -
cdpuk 28/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Bernie L 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S
bryan61 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

absolutely 1st class climbing,

with john leeds
Tom.Priestley 31/Aug/15 2nd dog

Fluffed it as i didn't use the heel hook. Silly.

Scott Quinn 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

e2.5 really cool though!

benkelsey 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Total cruise. E2 for sure. Got totally psyched for Pembroke after this

with Shaun Humphreys
will smith11 07/Aug/15 Lead β

Onsight except Twisty told me to take the small cams, and I'm glad he did.

with Twisty
Hidden 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Brendan Fraser
james.slater 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
james1978 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Luxulyan 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Alastair
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Was feeling good so went for this, lost my nerve on the final hard move on the arête and too the ride down. The swing into the arête hurt!

with Richard
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 2nd

Rested on the crux due to being knackered from my lead attempt

with Richard
tobydunford 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
msoldn 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Wow, so worth the wait, great way to say good bye to Pembroke for a little while, what a route!

with Thomasina
FlavioL1989 25/May/15 Lead O/S

First E3 (ish)

Ramon Marin 24/May/15 Lead rpt

Warm up of the day, this route never gets old.

with viki harvey
ferdia 24/May/15 Lead O/S

very satisfying climbing. jug-fest.

with Clare Muir
Gus 23/May/15 2nd
with chris barr
Chris_barr 23/May/15 Lead O/S

First route in Pembroke! Well good.

with Gus
brices 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with Edd, Llinos
hutchay 16/May/15 2nd
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead rpt
jiles 15/May/15 2nd
Alex Winter 15/May/15 Lead O/S

Jumped straight on this, and ended up getting a bit pumped. Jug was full of water. It's an E3 from me.

Andy Peak 1 13/May/15 Lead O/S

Jug full of water ternd my hands to slime spent 10 min trying to dry my hands.

Andy Peak 1 13/May/15 2nd
admackie 13/May/15 Lead O/S

totally fun

with andy
climbomaniac 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Fun climbing!

quiffhanger 09/May/15 2nd rpt

Nicholas first route in Pembroke dispatched in style - cruised in 10mins flat with 5 bits of gear, then apologised for taking so long!

M_Robinson 04/May/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 03/May/15 Lead rpt

Went direct from the cracks. Quite scary and damp once through the crux!

pearson9596 03/May/15 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?/May/15 Lead G/U
with Tim Johnston
Sardien 20/Apr/15 2nd dog

Did not throw for it sufficiently at the crux, dammit! Awesome climbing in awesome position

Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 11/Apr/15 2nd β

Climbed very efficiently by Andy! I copied his moves :)

with Andy Cmc
Tom Livingstone 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Oli Grounsell
eel 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Al
Jake Young 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Teappleby 06/Apr/15 2nd dog

So boxed!

Nick1812P 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
R2B 04/Apr/15 2nd

Totally spanked on the lead. Thanks to J for saving my ass.

with Justin
James Oswald 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S


with Nick Duboust
JCAshman ?/Apr/15 Lead
tradandybrown ?/Apr/15 -
with Rob andrews
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead RP
jonleighton 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
i_a_coops 15/Mar/15 Lead

went direct above the end of the crack this time as the arete was soaked. Greased out of the break above the crux on my first attempt, soggy rock doesn't really lend itself to dynamic movement...

NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
gurumed 30/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with gjd
gjd 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead β
Kirill 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Great position on the crux.

duncandarnell 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jord smith
nathanlee 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jack Lawledge
Ramon Marin 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Crux has a cool move with real feeling of exposure. Seconded a couple of years ago so nice to get back and lead it.

with Ramon
spidermonkey09 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Taking the E3 tick for the onsight! Really pleased with this.

Hidden 08/Sep/14 2nd dog
gg4419 05/Sep/14 Lead dnf
nicolat ?/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with James Mitchell
ollie_e 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 23/Aug/14 2nd
guy757 13/Jul/14 -
oliver.ghill91 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
beds74 22/Jun/14 TR

Quite sequency, did it twice barn door'd 1st time. Lovely moves in great position.

with Jon ginesi
Hidden 16/Jun/14 2nd
MorganPreece 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with KP
UBMC 12/Jun/14 TR
Hidden 12/Jun/14 TR RP
Hidden 12/Jun/14 TR O/S
HazelMacLean 12/Jun/14 TR O/S

Cruised it (on top rope)

Patrick Hill 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 07/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy
Llinos C 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead rpt
Mike Goldthorp 17/May/14 Lead

Could climb this route over and over again, so good, juggy romp to warm up before the stiff crux around the arete and a no-hands rest in an unlikely position, superb! Hard E2 for me, that crux is so well protected!

with Jack G
brices 17/May/14 2nd β

Nicely done Llinos

with Llinos
john lynch 16/May/14 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
brices 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
thomb 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Darren
Gingerdarren 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with tom blight
Olli-C 04/May/14 Lead dnf

Got passed the crux, got worried and didnt move my feet. Fell from jug on the arete.

with Adam Knightly
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 03/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Misha 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Ro's first E3. He breezed it!

tim newton 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
shed_hed 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Such a good route with jugs just where you need them!

dswansonlow 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
PaulTanton 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
anguskille 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
The Grist 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Angus Kille
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Twisty 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Much easier when you know what to do. First attempt 2 years ago involved me accidentally doing the direct finish (or not doing it and taking the ride!) This time it went well but still felt a bit goey. Intended to do Army Dreamers (again) but after the ab it looked nice and easy so just got on it.

with Phil Baxter
Kevster 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

A path, and well protected, but good.

Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
adam 24 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Hobbs
bigie bob 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
owain86 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
CharlieMack 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Direct up the arete from bottom to top. Amazing route!!

with Jen Maxfield
Wood for Trees 30/Mar/14 Lead β

seen a few people on it

with DJ Malx
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James S 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

took a big whipper just after the crux on first attempt. went second go much easier. e3 to onsight I think but much easier once you know what to do.

with dan
Dan0Me 13/Mar/14 2nd
with James S
tonevert ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Neil ??/2014 Lead
Ellis Bird ??/2014 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax ??/2014 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
robgixer 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Dizz 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Tom, Ian l
Tubs 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Jug a puddle but not terminally so. Pleased with this as I had to commit. Brought up the century for 2013.

with Ian L, Liz F
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 2nd dog

Great moves at a fantastic position! Slipped and fell while retrieving a nut.

with Rob G
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead β
gurumed 30/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Ronnie
Rachel S 04/Sep/13 2nd
with Nik
steve.warrington 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 27/Aug/13 2nd dog

Seconded fine last time but found crux really balancy and awkward this time, could not do it at all.

with Kev
Matt Cooke 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 16/Aug/13 2nd dog

Steep! Rested ignominiously several times at the crux. Not a route for the terminally unfit!

with Andy
nickstephens 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
gg4419 13/Aug/13 Lead dog

Turned the arête after making the crux moves, missed the next hold, buckled up and took the ride! Definitely coming back for this clean, such a great route.

Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
Lessworkmoreclimbing 06/Aug/13 2nd

Crucial hold was wet, failed to work crux move out first time but enjoyed it when I got it. Would love to lead one day, great route!

with Kev
Dibdawg 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route good exposure on the crux!

with Richard Snow
cooperman 05/Jul/13 Lead β
with Greg Foster
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Michael Porter
kelliroberts3 02/Jun/13 2nd
Jim Tan 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 02/Jun/13 Lead β
with Kelli Roberts
skippington 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Sarah Black ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

One rest at crux - pumped out

with Jim
tebs 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Rich, Adam
mr mills 26/May/13 Lead rpt
with edwin
Alistair Corbett 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Sweet line and plenty of gear!

Hidden 25/May/13 2nd dog
khalidq 19/May/13 2nd dog
with Rob Powell
chris wyatt 18/May/13 Lead O/S

1 move wonder - but a good one

Mike_Hayes 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
Will Hunt 05/May/13 Lead dnf

"It looked easy" from the ground so thought I'd have a go. I knew I wouldn't have the fitness for a stamina route like this! Pumped out getting gear in just before the crux (which was a bit fiddly without small cams!) and had to lower off!

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
morganator 05/May/13 AltLd

Last route of a big 5 day return to climbing after a winter of skiing. Trashed

with Stan Halstead
markalmack 05/May/13 2nd rpt
with gwen
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 04/May/13 Lead rpt
burto 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
dswansonlow 30/Mar/13 2nd rpt
with Emma Twyford
Luke Brooks 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Sophie
willoates 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

amazing arete, really cool feature

with barni
soph 29/Mar/13 Lead rpt
barni 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Oates
Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Didn't think I was going to make it. Got up thanks to some moral support from Ross and Harry at the top (and a fair bit of swearing). A great route up a striking feature!

HarryB 22/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ross
Dangerous Dave 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Fun moves around the arete

with Dave O
dave o 17/Sep/12 2nd

Fell of leading it first!

Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gregoritos 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/12 Lead rpt
mountain_jay 25/Aug/12 Lead β

Had seconded once before. Really enjoyed it though. Felt comfortable. Pip popped her head over at the crux to say hello!

Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. Well worth fiddling in plenty of gear from the jug to keep a Cool head during the run-out.

Dave Foster 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Robin
richiebongo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Ed morris 10/Aug/12 Lead RP

Finally committed to the crux, felt ok despite hot greasy conditions. One failed lead previously.

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 09/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
JBO 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bit of a one move wonder but what a move! Great route.

Aaron Lines 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

very windy,greasy intitial crack, big sea's and alot of sea spray. felt e3 in those conditions!

with jim, Dan
Adam Booth 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Awesome! Wanted to do this for ages.

Rick Ashton 29/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Robert Drynda
James Marshall 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Pete Shepherd
davesimpson 01/Jun/12 Lead β
with tadas the badass
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 27/May/12 Lead β


with Caroline Culwick
ellis 19/May/12 2nd rpt

Previously led O/S

with Alan Willoner
Ollie B 19/May/12 Lead β

previously 2nd, nice to finally do

with B.Gregory
richardr 19/May/12 Lead O/S
Billg 19/May/12 2nd
with Ollie
al99 12/May/12 2nd rpt
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 12/May/12 Lead O/S

With some of the gear already in place (retrieved for another party). Great route.

Kyuzo 06/May/12 -
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
Hidden 02/May/12 TR dog
Glyn 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
sam820 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Murdoch
Oddjob 07/Apr/12 2nd β
with Markus
Justin T 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Richard James Edmunds ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 04/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead rpt
centurion05 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
DubyaJamesDubya 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Rhydian Evans 23/Aug/11 2nd
EliotStephens 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route. 3 stars for me.

Goose4 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good where it mattered!!, great climb!!

Speeddemonsi 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
scorpia97 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf

made the crux but the hold wasnt as good as expecting, pumped myself silly having not climbed anything but slabs in a long time. Fell off hit the arete and f*cked my ankles..

with Caspian
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd
Stanley 04/Aug/11 TR dog

Pumpy... understatement of the century :)

with Cragking
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
mr mills 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Gareth
dj hannaford 29/Jul/11 2nd dog
thomasadixon 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Crux felt hard, really balancy moves. Good climb though.

with Mike
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd rpt
C coldwell-storry 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
Tomar 23/Jul/11 Lead β
with Harry
mountain.martin 16/Jul/11 2nd rpt
mountain.martin 04/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Edmund
Ed morris 04/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Martin
jacobjlloyd 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Bloody amazing.

pipof747 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
hamish2016 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
drysori 30/Jun/11 2nd
with hamdunn
Richard Hall 05/Jun/11 Lead β

On Gaz's gear as it was getting late and starting to rain. Should have done it properly really. Good route.

with Gaz
Cragrat Rich 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Unbelievable positions at the top. The holds are great and the moves are sublime. Getting a hand and then a foot on that arete jug are about the best things that will ever happen to you around this grade (whichever grade you decide that is)!

mux 27/May/11 2nd

Still good second time around

with Pete Harrison, frost
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
frost 27/May/11 2nd
with Pete H, D Garry
al99 14/May/11 Lead O/S
zero six ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

very nice line.

Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
spidey 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 26/Apr/11 2nd β

Great effort by Twisty on the lead, didn't feel particularly hard on the second but I'm sure the lead is completely different!

squicky 26/Apr/11 2nd dog

Great route. Bold move onto the flake that took a couple of tries.

with spidey
centurion05 23/Apr/11 Lead
John Roe 23/Apr/11 2nd

Yet again, thanks to Andy I was on a climb beyond my abilities. That said a fantastic experience, thanks Andy.

ben1987 22/Apr/11 -
Adam Coles 22/Apr/11 -
with ben1987
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd dog
Mike Goldthorp 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great fun! Really memorable crux, got a cheeky no-hands-rest on it (no, not just hangin on the gear). Bucket jug was a puddle! Probs just tough E2, just gota go for it with confidence

HeatherF 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Sooo pumpy!

Duncan Campbell 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Greasy at the bottom and a Jug full of water before the crux. Tricky pumpy climbing up to this. Put loads of gear in before going for it. E3 in damp conditions? Maybe if totally dry it would be hard E2? Whatever the grade, I had to fight the pump on this, as I'm not usually very good at steep, sustained routes. Absolutely three star classic!

markalmack 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
31770 ??/2011 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 25/Sep/10 Lead RP

Dogged previously 07/May/09. Seconded with Alex 06/Aug/16.

with Harry
Brown 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with James T
i_a_coops ?/Sep/10 Lead β
with Jacob
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
chiverstom 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with zappa
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/10 2nd

Still feels like E3 2nd time about.

with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
drcorbasisgod 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Pippa 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jon
liamoloughlin 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I think it is E2. Probably E3 if you fell off!

frost 28/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
3 Names 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with steveE9
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
London Luke 14/Aug/10 Lead
with si Hill
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graham Iles 13/Aug/10 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR dog
catblack 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great sustained climbing followed by a testing crux.It would be very eliminate to avoid using the arete at the top (I presume this is what is described as being the 6a version) as you're right on the arete the whole way even though you follow the crack.

jas128 08/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 31/Jul/10 Lead
metal arms 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rose Williams 16/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Gareth
gnc760 14/Jun/10 Lead

2nd effort after a ground sweeper on the Friday. Ace.

with Rose Williams
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd β
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Matthew Gray ?/May/10 2nd β
tommytuffa 30/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First rout at pembroke, so intimidating, awesome

with james
barni 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
going going gone 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

had to do it this year as i chickening out last year. woop woop

Ed Booth 09/Apr/10 2nd

tried 4 years ago on first trip to pembroke and bailed. Felt nice today. Don't know if we went to direct from the jug hold, felt very e3 to me. Would have been spicy lead.

mattyork2 09/Apr/10 2nd
anguskille 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S

bit pumped, wasn't too sure about my gear either, fun tho

with Tom and Ed
miastacey ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Maynard
irish paul 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Tim W
Tim W 07/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Tim W 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21/Sep/09 Lead
ian d f 09/Sep/09 2nd dog

the new rockfax says its an easy E3 - well i certainly climbed easier E3s! maybe i was nackered from days climbing...

with Pete H
w.pettet-smith 22/Aug/09 Lead RP

took a long(for me) fall going too direct.should have read the new discription! awesome air time. awesome, if greasy, route.

with claire jane carter
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 16/Aug/09 Lead dog

One rest after faffing around trying to place a cam from the good hold on the arete. E3 in the new guide, which is fair although lower end. fantastic route.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 16/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead β
lukea 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

definitely e3. done many easier e3's. pumpy but great.

with Nathan M
belay bunny turned bad 05/Aug/09 Lead RP

Finally !!

with loundsy
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Rob Pitt 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Annelies Sarrazyn
clairejane ?/Aug/09 2nd

scary belaying.. strenous removable of fallen on nuts...

with will
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/09 2nd

down climbed the crux twice before i gave in and made marcus do it!!!

with marcus
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Sam the Butcher 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with andy latta and tom ce
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
alaan 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
mattyork2 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/May/09 Lead rpt
david morse 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Juan
petecallaghan 02/May/09 TR O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/08 2nd
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
gforce 06/Aug/08 Lead
with Jason
HughM ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Shane Norton
sara n 26/Jul/08 2nd

Barn doored on the crux - dammit!

with Neville Contractor
andi turner 18/Jul/08 Lead
with Gus Hudgins
feilx 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Mark Stevenson 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 24/May/08 2nd dog

Couldn't trust myself on the right hand crimp below the nose on the arette. Got pumped silly faffing about and then fell off, twice or was it three times?

with Ramon Marin Martinez
riddle 24/May/08 Lead O/S

awesome climb.

with Yasmina
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd dog
Richard Horn 17/May/08 2nd
ksjs 07/May/08 Lead rpt

just class and i finished it this time round. probably just about E3 but safe as houses with good climbing in a great position - feels like proper trad

Hidden 07/May/08 2nd dog
spacey 01/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
daniel hobbs ?/May/08 Lead

clean ground up one year after down climbing and chickening out the year before.

bfreeman 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
jfreeman 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Ben Freeman
LC ?/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
Docent 06/Oct/07 Lead β
with stecu
dannyboy83 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Webster
Hidden 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 09/Jun/07 Lead dog

One rest, Doh!

with Crystina Common
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 20/May/07 2nd O/S
Chad123 05/May/07 2nd

Still think it's just about worth E3....

with Emily
Onions 05/May/07 2nd dog

Climb up the crack to a welcome pocket then it's round the corner and up a bit to another welcome juggy rest. Move back right to finish. Not bad climbing.

with Neville Contractor
Alex Mason 03/May/07 Lead O/S

found this rather steady, excellent nontheless, with a brilliant crux section.

Hidden 10/Apr/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Gus 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
givemetea 23/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Lucy Creamer
givemetea 21/Aug/06 2nd β
with Lucy Creamer
lukea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Al
Mark Riley 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
PaulTanton 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Ricky Rocks ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
haydng ??/2006 -
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Huw
Chubbard 16/Jul/05 Lead β
with C Godfrey
bronsonite 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Johnny McMillen
Ben1983 ?/May/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/05 Lead O/S
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead β
cem 03/May/04 Lead dnf
with Rod Strachan
ap 14/Feb/04 Lead O/S

Warm February day

with James
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
JulesV ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Hidden 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden ?/Dec/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 26/Aug/00 Lead
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
D Tempest 11/Jun/99 2nd
with Rick
GuyM ??/1999 -
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
The Jazz Butcher ??/1999 -
clark alston ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Steven Martin
AlexRenshaw 14/Sep/98 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd β
goi.ashmore 20/Oct/97 Lead β

In the rain. Over-rated.

with Roy Thomas
nickdonohue 24/Aug/97 Lead dnf

tried to lead through after friend had got to just below crux and lowered off. attempted a few times, had a few falls

with Caley Latham, Dave Chapman
sadams 23/Aug/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead
Hidden ?/May/97 Lead O/S
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
AlexRenshaw 07/May/95 2nd
Andy Say 14/Apr/95 Lead
craig h 04/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ??/1995 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
adi bryant ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/94 Lead
with Hugh
Hidden ??/1994 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Ellis 08/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Tony Little 02/May/92 Lead O/S
with Merk and Travis
Roget 21/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
whispering nic 02/Aug/91 2nd
with Graham Iles
Hidden ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
jfletcher 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S

Soloed on a subsequent visit, probably June 1991.

steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
wynaptomos ?/May/90 2nd rpt
Dave Rumney ?/May/90 -
Rich Kirby 14/Apr/90 2nd
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/89 AltLd
ukb & bmc shark 02/Apr/89 Solo
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/88 2nd
Stoney Boy 02/Apr/88 2nd
with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21/Aug/87 Lead
with Nigel Gregory
Hidden 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
John Marsland 20/Apr/87 Lead
with Dave Mould
charlesmfrench 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Mike Poremba
Hidden 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 06/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
wynaptomos ?/Apr/87 2nd O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
AlexRenshaw 22/Sep/86 Lead
with Simon Donowho
keefe 28/Dec/85 -
John Marsland 27/May/85 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden 01/May/85 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S


with Emily
steve.aisthorpe 16/Sep/84 2nd
with shark
ukb & bmc shark 16/Sep/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 28/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
johno072 ??/1983 2nd
Mike Owen 24/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
jon 15/May/81 Lead
with Robin Pearce
Steve Lewis ??/1981 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
53 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 162
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 148
Votes cast 148
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set