Rockfax Description
The route up the left-hand side of the open corner tends to be too dirty to be much fun. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. S.Blackman 1982

Will Webb 31/Aug/17 Lead
with Emily
emily.fw 31/Aug/17 2nd
edwards_nicholas 28/Aug/17 Lead dog

Very dirty/dusty as its on the ab-line. Quite powerful moves and polished.

john max 28/Aug/17 2nd
aiyer 27/Aug/17 2nd

Oh polish...

with JakeB.
TGHB 27/Aug/17 Lead dog

Dusty, polished, greasy and on quite a warm day.

Wendy Watthews 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Toms first trad lead fall

Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/17 Lead
Dan Vaj 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Khalid
khalidq 16/Jun/17 2nd O/S
James-m-h 26/Mar/17 Lead

Lead at the end of the day very sandy rather fun high vs

with joedean
joedean 26/Mar/17 2nd
simibrown 10/Sep/16 AltLd
with andre
pingora 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Charles
cem 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S
andyclimber 28/Aug/16 Lead dog

Oh dear this didn't go well at all. Poor climbing technique led to much sitting on gear. Will be back another time for a clean ascent.

Richard Kendrick 27/May/16 2nd
jon_gill1 27/May/16 Lead O/S
Carl 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S

First VS lead, quite enjoyed it actually! Had to faff around with quite a lot of the gear so it got pretty pumpy hallway up. Bit dirty towards the top, but nothing terrible (except for one muddy jug!).

with Dan Mills
dobby 200 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Kendal
gingerking ?/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Joel Sargent, Josh Hadley, Hadley
ollie1 17/Jul/15 TR

Heroic climb out with broken right foot!

Hidden 06/Jun/15 2nd
Joel Miller 22/Mar/15 Lead
Katie Proctor 22/Mar/15 2nd dog

Like climbing a sandcastle!

with Joel Miller
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Giles Davis 20/Jul/14 2nd dog

Sandy, dirty and polished. Led to halfway then backed off before thoroughly shaming myself by dogging it as a second. Good to see others have struggled on it :-) Not sure what it is with layback corner cracks and me but they seem to be kicking my ar*e at the moment.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 TR
mclancy50 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tapley 10/Jun/14 2nd
with Simon Tapley
spragglerocks 24/May/14 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 24/May/14 2nd O/S


matt.stevenson 04/May/14 Lead
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 03/Aug/13 2nd
with Pete Kelly
Andy Chubb 19/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Quite polished now so 4c

with Nick Gregory
Stone Muppet 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S


with ah
auld al 23/May/13 2nd O/S
JenDurden 04/May/13 2nd
Nexonen 04/May/13 Lead RP

I backed off, then Jen backed off, then it was my turn again!

with Jen
RKirke 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2013 -
Hidden 25/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Dan Lane 22/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Sandy but actually quite pleasant climbing.

with Luke Donaldson
grubes 22/Jun/12 2nd
with Dan
Jonny Nick 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Completely caked in sand / mud. Climbed the route when should have probably been sat back in John's van given the rain and the huge waves. Pretty exciting though

Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead
mhawk 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Martin
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
murray ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Sarah Black ??/2012 Lead O/S
dpmUK 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
victim of mathematics 14/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Rubbish, dirty and pretty damn hard for VS.

with Dan
LardClimber 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
hels bels 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
fjellogpadleskole 05/Aug/11 Lead
Hjort 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
josephgrimwade 10/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Peter Stollery
frume 24/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ian
PanzerHanzler 29/Apr/11 Lead dog

One rest - slacker!

with Bob Butcher
squicky 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with spidey
Stefan_Morris 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Fuller
Tom Fuller 06/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
lanky_bastard 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
JasRY 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Liam
Rachel Slater 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Adam M
Matt Smith 21/Feb/10 Lead dnf
with Robyn Tuerena
cymjt ??/2010 -
belay bunny turned bad 26/Oct/09 TR
Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S
going going gone 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
EmmanuelF 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S

horrible and dusty

with richard and Laura
eagleopus 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Hill
Steve Hill 21/Jun/09 Lead dog

Quite strenuous due to polish and dust, ended up resting on a wire.

fatbuoybazza 24/May/09 Lead dog

agree with pythonist on this one, jist crap.. although i was having a very bad day anyways.. certainly wont forget this day for a while..

Ed morris 23/May/09 Lead O/S

dust blown into eyes, feet kept popping due to polish and generally had a hard time. a lot of my desperate gear placements fell out.

with arthur
godusty 08/May/09 -
benclimbing 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Richard Hession 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stu
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead
DrIan 03/Aug/08 2nd

Not that bad a climb enjoyed it on a nice dry sunny day. Dont expect it to be walk over though due to the polish on obvious holds but you dont have to use them.

with juergen
daviesp2 03/Aug/08 2nd
Rose Williams ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Gareth
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 24/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ramon Marin Martinez
pelvoux 04/May/08 Lead O/S

Dry but very dusty

with Stephen
mrtom 03/May/08 Lead O/S

Very, very wet!

Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
Mark Walter 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Sarah and Alex
haydng 27/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
btc 23/Jun/07 Lead
with Heather Rogers
leerybunny 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 02/Jun/07 2nd rpt

still wet!

Pythonist 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Dirty, polished, and just generally sh*te (though very similar to Chieftain in the actual moves)

with Teddington
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
david morse ?/Aug/06 TR

if youre thinking of busting up this route instead of the escape chimney, dont bother. what a mess

irish paul 26/Feb/06 Lead O/S


with Rob Stich
Neil Henson 20/Jun/04 2nd
with Mark Collins
Tim W 27/Mar/04 Lead O/S

Sandy, wet and horrible

mikeyjbs 23/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with dan
Hammy 10/Aug/03 TR
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with Adrian Sherriff
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
Different Steve ?/May/02 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
cornishben ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Rog Wilko ?/May/99 Lead

A bit of a sandbag. HVS 4c?

chris wyatt ??/1998 -
simon kimber ??/1997 TR
with Nick Kimber
Ian Jones ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Roger Benton, Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 21/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/94 2nd
pingora 04/May/94 -
with Shaun R
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/92 Lead
with Rick Kerr
Andy Say 15/Apr/92 Lead
Cowflinger 23/Jul/91 TR O/S

very loose, dislodged many blocks and nearly killed ian. he payed rope out and ran to dodge blocks

with Ian
morganator ?/Sep/90 Solo
ndm 11/Jul/90 2nd
BigHairyIan 06/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
keefe 18/Feb/86 -
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1986 Lead rpt
sablackman ??/1982 Lead
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 19
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set