Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A decent route which packs it in above the roof. Start at the right-hand end of the ledge. Climb up then move right onto a small slab and follow this on its left-hand side to the roof. Arrange some gear then pull onto the wall and climb it with some urgency. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 24/Mar/1985.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Crowe | 6 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tried it as the last route of a weeks climbing and agree with Tom. By the way the start has fallen down but you can still climb in from the ledge on the left. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Tried it as the last route of a weeks climbing and agree with Tom. By the way the start has fallen down but you can still climb in from the ledge on the left. |
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| Tom Briggs | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy and pretty runout for the grade. Not one to do at the end of the day when you're tired. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pumpy and pretty runout for the grade. Not one to do at the end of the day when you're tired. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Trevallen Pillar - Original Finish
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)