36m.

Rockfax Description
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye Mar/1986


ClimberDateStyle
Euan Todd 09/Sep Lead G/U

Fell once at the finger-jam crux. Lowered, and led it off the same gear. E2, but high in 5c! Slightly eliminate at the top, but the upper crimpy wall is good fun.

Hugh Simons 09/Sep 2nd O/S

Definitely E2 5c!

Andrew Sloan 26/Aug Lead dnf

Made it half way up the initial crack before running out of strength. Need to work on my stamina and finger locks,

with Tim
Hidden 22/Aug Lead β
Alice Thompson 19/Aug Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ?/Aug -
Hidden 29/Jul TR O/S
ukb & bmc shark 13/Jul Lead
with Nick Conway
Nickc 13/Jul 2nd O/S
with Simon lee
ian bryant 18/Jun Lead O/S
PaulTanton 30/May Lead O/S

Bit damp. As everyone says, the crack at the start is hard.

with Mark Grist, Tom Doldon
The Grist 30/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Nov/16 Lead
bryan61 27/Aug/16 Lead RP

a hard start, good route none the less

with Mr Cess
La Mont 18/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
Adam24B 16/Aug/16 2nd

I agree with mike

M_Robinson 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Hard, scary, not that good

Ed Babs 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 04/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Ed
john lynch 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

felt hard at the grade..

with Lewis Andrew
Luxulyan 30/May/16 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Richard
markalmack 08/May/16 Lead O/S

desperate when wet. thought i was gonna slip out of the finger locks

Duncan Campbell 08/May/16 2nd

Again greasy as sin! Has a hard finger crack section low down that is tough in said conditions.

with Almadad
Wendy ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Dizz 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Jan, Ian F
patrickcd 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead β
soph 16/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Adam Brown
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
WB 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

This was meant to be a warm up, but nearly fell off the greasy crack.

with Anna
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Semi led - didn't pull the ropes when Steve bailed.

mountain_jay 05/May/14 2nd
Pippa 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Mike Tutt 21/Apr/14 2nd
Rich Kirby 21/Apr/14 2nd
Stefan_Morris 07/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ed morris 07/Apr/14 Lead β
with stefan
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Ed morris 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Mike_Hayes 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Hard E2.Harder 5c than the Butcher Especially when greasy as it was yesterday...

Olli-C 06/May/13 Lead rpt

E2 5c in guide and as hard/harder than deranged. Line is escapable and not very defined. Starting crack is hard, groove is techy and upper headwall is fingery and really fun although escapable up tactician.

Rachel Slater 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
VPJB ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 2nd β
with Dougie
Greg Pittam 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Raff
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S

very greasy. Made the start feel very hard

with Ollie
tlmarjot 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
annetweddell 02/Oct/11 -

E1 5b in old Rockfax, elevated to E2 in newer one. Well, has anyone got up this recently? Abandonned about 30 feet up. H A R D.

with Jeff
Dave Rumney 02/Oct/11 Lead

greasy and damp low down (where it matters). Very loose block near the top

with Tanya Milner
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
John Tanner 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Nails! Had to back off from the crack, and rest a lot, after getting very pumped. Then got back on it and got it clean

with Oli Brend
owb106 22/Aug/11 2nd β
thomasadixon 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nails crux, felt hard for E2 let alone E1.

with Mike
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
mountain.martin 13/Jun/11 2nd dog

one short(ish) rest

Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Pippa 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Jon
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 Lead
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/10 Lead
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
frost 27/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
Alex Mason 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Done on the wettest, greasiest day ever. Found the start hard then sustained and technical for the rest. A great route, just a bit overshadowed. Hard E2.

with Mikey G
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Dan McManus
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

hardest E2 iv done the crux at the bottom is nails then sustained the rest of the way

Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 14/Jun/10 2nd

Stiff start. Worth E2

with James Kay
feilx 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
LC ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
RobRock84 31/Jul/09 2nd O/S

an unergraded route for sure,great route with great positions,safe to say hard E2 tho!

with Adam Bevan
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mat tDrain
nicolat ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
morganator 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 14/Aug/08 2nd O/S
ksjs 08/May/08 Lead rpt

still stunning and quite probably E3. great, varied climbing all the way including some quite technical stuff in the groove

Hidden 08/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
Geras 06/May/07 2nd

a hard climb, left me wasted at the top

with Ion
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 12/Jun/05 2nd dog

really struggled on this one

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/00 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Graham Iles 19/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
duncan 15/Aug/98 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 30/May/96 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
jon 22/Mar/86 Lead

First ascent. We gave it E1 5b at the time which seemed reasonable in dry conditions. This was questioned the next day by Ed Stone who fell off it expecting an easy ride.

with H
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set