Rockfax Description
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye Mar/1986

Hidden 24/Nov/16 Lead
bryan61 27/Aug/16 Lead RP

a hard start, good route none the less

with Mr Cess
La Mont 18/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
M_Robinson 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Hard, scary, not that good

Adam24B 16/Aug/16 2nd

I agree with mike

AlexD 04/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Ed
Ed Babs 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with AlexD
john lynch 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

felt hard at the grade..

with Lewis Andrew
tim.fairhall 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 30/May/16 2nd
with Tim
Duncan Campbell 08/May/16 2nd

Again greasy as sin! Has a hard finger crack section low down that is tough in said conditions.

with Almadad
markalmack 08/May/16 Lead O/S

desperate when wet. thought i was gonna slip out of the finger locks

Wendy ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
alan rosier 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Would not argue if given e3 6a

with Bob Brewer
Dizz 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Jan, Ian F
patrickcd 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead β
soph 16/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Adam Brown
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
WB 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

This was meant to be a warm up, but nearly fell off the greasy crack.

with Anna
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Semi led - didn't pull the ropes when Steve bailed.

Pippa 05/May/14 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 05/May/14 2nd
Rich Kirby 21/Apr/14 2nd
Adam Lincoln 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Mike Tutt 21/Apr/14 2nd
Stefan_Morris 07/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ed morris 07/Apr/14 Lead β
with stefan
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Ed morris 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Mike_Hayes 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Hard E2.Harder 5c than the Butcher Especially when greasy as it was yesterday...

Olli-C 06/May/13 Lead rpt

E2 5c in guide and as hard/harder than deranged. Line is escapable and not very defined. Starting crack is hard, groove is techy and upper headwall is fingery and really fun although escapable up tactician.

Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
Rachel Slater 06/May/13 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 2nd β
with Dougie
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Raff
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S

very greasy. Made the start feel very hard

with Ollie
tlmarjot 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
annetweddell 02/Oct/11 -

E1 5b in old Rockfax, elevated to E2 in newer one. Well, has anyone got up this recently? Abandonned about 30 feet up. H A R D.

with Jeff
Dave Rumney 02/Oct/11 Lead

greasy and damp low down (where it matters). Very loose block near the top

with Tanya Milner
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
John Tanner 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Nails! Had to back off from the crack, and rest a lot, after getting very pumped. Then got back on it and got it clean

with Oli Brend
owb106 22/Aug/11 2nd β
thomasadixon 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nails crux, felt hard for E2 let alone E1.

with Mike
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
mountain.martin 13/Jun/11 2nd dog

one short(ish) rest

Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 Lead
Pippa 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Jon
frost 27/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/10 Lead
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
Alex Mason 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Done on the wettest, greasiest day ever. Found the start hard then sustained and technical for the rest. A great route, just a bit overshadowed. Hard E2.

with Mikey G
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Dan McManus
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

hardest E2 iv done the crux at the bottom is nails then sustained the rest of the way

Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 14/Jun/10 2nd

Stiff start. Worth E2

with James Kay
feilx 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
LC ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
RobRock84 31/Jul/09 2nd O/S

an unergraded route for sure,great route with great positions,safe to say hard E2 tho!

with Adam Bevan
ASchwirtz 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mat tDrain
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
morganator 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 14/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/08 2nd dog
ksjs 08/May/08 Lead rpt

still stunning and quite probably E3. great, varied climbing all the way including some quite technical stuff in the groove

Hidden 05/May/08 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
twodada 06/May/07 2nd

a hard climb, left me wasted at the top

with Ion
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 12/Jun/05 2nd dog

really struggled on this one

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/00 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Graham Iles 19/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
duncan 15/Aug/98 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 30/May/96 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/Jul/95 Lead
rc ??/1994 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set