UKC Logbook - 'Deranged'

36m.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which follows an intricate line up the wall. Start in the centre of an undercut roof, below a left-trending groove line. Pull onto the wall, climb the groove then, at its top, step right into another groove and follow this to a roof. Move right around this then make a hard move back left above it to a flake/pillar which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, S.Lewis 24/Jun/1978.

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User	Date		Notes
Kiddie68	5 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route!
Tommy_shaw	4 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!!
Furzy Sleight	16 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b)
Furzy Sleight	16 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand)
Show beta βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand)
SteveM	2 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it.
drcorbasisgod	9 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb!
huwtj	25 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route!
Chad123	25 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback.
Show beta βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback.