Restricted Access
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) RESTRICTION LIFTED JUNE 26TH 2022
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A superb route which follows an intricate line up the wall. Start in the centre of an undercut roof, below a left-trending groove line. Pull onto the wall, climb the groove then, at its top, step right into another groove and follow this to a roof. Move right around this then make a hard move back left above it to a flake/pillar which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, S.Lewis 24/Jun/1978.
Ticklists
Work Hard, Play Hard , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Becky's ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 2021 , Pembroke ticket
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 5 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ecstatic to get this clean first go. Never desperate, but sustained to the top. Excellent route! |
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| Tommy_shaw | 4 May, 2019 |
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βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best routes I have ever done!! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 16 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b) |
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| Furzy Sleight | 16 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand) |
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| SteveM | 2 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb! |
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| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route! |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Rock Idol Direct Finish
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)