Rockfax Description
One of the classic routes of the area which follows the most substantial line on the face. Start beneath the larger of the two right-facing corners. Climb the wall into the corner and follow this to the roof. The roof can be passed on either side. Move back to gain the exposed continuation groove/crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.76

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Extreme 2018.

Katekeltie 28/Sep/17 Lead O/S
George_Surf 26/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Interesting solo approach from the ab line close to the waves. First section up to the corner is bold. Roof traverse is probably the crux, it's cramped. Groove above is sustained but nice easier climbing once you get round on to the cracks on the face. Takes all the gear

rachelpearce01 26/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Paul ablitt 01/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Jim Slater 26/Aug/17 2nd dog

Fluffed the second section of the overhangs.

Graeme Hammond 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S

So much fun pulling through the roofs, found the groove above hardest.

with Jim
Roget 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd dog
poeter210 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Stanners 15/Jul/17 2nd O/S

stonking effort from Tom given the grease! That crux move is desperate to throw you off!

with Tom Rogers
Longsufferingropeholder 10/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with C May
C May 10/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Tim
NDD 03/Jul/17 2nd
Adam Long 03/Jul/17 Lead

Ok, a bit cruxy

with Nic Duboust
rosiehawker 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant route

Hidden 26/May/17 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
msoldn ??/2017 Lead O/S
with Pau
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Jo
philhilo 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Busy on Dierdre Sud ab, got soaked on first attempt to climb across. Eventually braved the waves. Started too far left so had epic drag. Scary dinner table sized block just about keyed in under the roof - stayed off that! Roof strenuous but fun, wouldn't like to be 6ft 6in for that. Sustained above that. Rob had fun......

with Rob Tresize
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd
Matt77 30/Jul/16 2nd

Adventurous route and one that I'll remember for a long-time, even on second. It was high tide so I set up a hanging belay (in itself memorable) and watching Shane do battle with the roof was very exciting: grunts, groans and power screams. Maximum weekend warrior waddage. Well done that man.

with Shane
islandlynx 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Unfit and facing my nemesis, pulling through a roof. My power screams echoed of the nearby cove as I powered (groovled) through, thank you hand jam. The bridging after destroyed my achielles but I crawled over the top victorious.

wi11 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ruth B
Hidden 06/Jul/16 TR
Ed morris 05/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Stefan_Morris 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
poeter210 25/Jun/16 Lead dog

Happy to get the crux but slid out of the groove. Wild!

with The Spence
john lynch 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S

absolute classic. tough crux through the roof.

with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
WB 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 30/May/16 2nd rpt
soph 09/May/16 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
mike mo ??/2016 Lead O/S
neilh ??/2016 -
gurumed 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 28/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
GridNorth 10/Sep/15 2nd

Not easy but superb. Went left at the roof. Better done in the afternoon at this time of year. It was all a bit damp and dismal and quite intimidating with a rising tide and heavy swell. Probably feel a grade easier in warm sunshine and a calm sea.

with Martin Lancaster
theotherpetehill 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
chrisallan 01/Sep/15 2nd dog
The Grist 15/Aug/15 2nd
PaulTanton 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 14/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Adam24B 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Climbed the roof on the right, extended gear below the crux then realised that none of it was extended enough so got some wicked rope drag but thoroughly enjoyed the route, I'd say the best Pembroke E2 I've done!

Ian Jones 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Superb and perhaps easier for the vertically challenged.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead
Avon Man 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Absorbing climbing up an imposing line in a beautiful setting - all in all a great route! Started from a hanging thread belay just above high tide line.

with Derek
james1978 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Scary and airy!

with pam
Hidden 24/May/15 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Epic! Great line up the crag. Thought the crux was hard, 5c not 5b, but it's pretty easy above and below so not a hard E2.

with Andy
alastairbegley 23/May/15 Lead dnf

Don't know if I was doing something wrong, but the move I was trying to do into the hanging groove certainly wasn't 5b! triied as hard as I could on my first attempt and knackered myself, had another few goes but with a tired body I decided to escape right.

Slick 23/May/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 06/Apr/15 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
quiffhanger 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Quite wet and a little loose with some very traditional climbing = a very traumatised second.

with Rachel
grp 12/Sep/14 Lead dog
jgordon75 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Nottridge
tobydunford 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Justin T 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Perhaps it was the heavy swell and the hustling wind, but this felt nails. Looked both ways around the roof, going left appears to involve ascending a blank wall to undercuts. After finally committing going right was very, very bunched for a 6'3" lanky streak of piss and ended with one of the most powerful pulls I had to make all weekend. Yet again full respect those gnarly 70s dudes!

with Rachel
Rachel Slater 09/May/14 2nd O/S
Sarah Black 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
gazhbo 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
al99 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Drizzling and therefore quite greasy, still an awesome route though!

with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Wet and greasy! Great route

James Oswald 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S

really cool setting, very good climbing in the upper half of the route.

Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Lessworkmoreclimbing 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Climbed the roof on its right which was quite exciting. Kev found it easier on the left. Really good route, think I could lead it.

with Kev
JonathanJones 30/Jul/13 2nd O/S

scary move over roof - the 5b move

Chriswallis2 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tatz45 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
The Grist 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet 06/Jul/13 Lead

Rested on one nut post crux, because I was lame and unfit and took about 10 goes to do said crux. So long in fact that Ami got heatstroke on the belay and with the help of other climbers on their way home had to be hoisted off the crag. Followed by me going back down for the gear. Lol.

with ah
Alice Thompson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Lenny 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

One of the very best routes of it's grade I have done. Brilliant line, fantastic location, and ultimate exposure. The climbing's not bad either!

with Mick & Dan
Duncan Campbell 30/May/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, wild, and a brilliant line!

with Ollie B
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Super route after day on the beach with the kids. We took the crux bulge on the left. Great moves in exciting positions.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Apr/13 Lead

Just brilliant. Great fun with Dad

with Dad
Tubs 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave M
Ollie B 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Cool route.

with Pete and Livvi
Wil Treasure 19/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
colesy 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

some of the rock looks a bit dodgy - but it probably isnt! Lovely upper crack after an extended crux

annetweddell 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Jeff
markalmack 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
david morse 01/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Monkey_Alan 28/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Neil Weymouth
jgordon75 18/Aug/11 2nd
Owen W-G 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've ever done, stunning evening conditions in full bronze

with Jim
tim newton 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
givemetea 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Helen King
mattnuttall 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ian Heginbotham
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd β
3 Names 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Different Steve 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Guy Reid
irish paul 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead β
duncan 08/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Tanya Milner
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden 21/Sep/09 2nd dog
Jamie Goodwin 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Rescued ralph from the tide with a hanging belay below the roof

Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 18/Sep/09 Lead
with loundsy
RobRock84 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
ian d f 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Pritty exciting (bold) move right past overhang bit

with Pete H
HappyTrundler 08/Aug/09 Lead dog

Thought it was hard for E2 5b compared to other Pembroke E2's I've done, and certainly compared to Wye Valley / Avon E2's. I ran out of gear 25 foot from the top and had to have a top rope. Straightforward to the overhang then steep with no real rests...

with Tommy
david morse 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Damn good, only 5b if youve got the guns. i think bold HVS with a well protected 5c move in the middle. Classic

with jon denniss
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
Billg 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Bob Brewer
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd

Very good indeed

with A. Howarth
Hidden 17/Sep/07 2nd dog
dannyboy83 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
feilx 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
morganator ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Stan Halstead
mbutton ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Price
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
ASchwirtz 27/Aug/06 Lead dnf
with Graham
Bella 05/Aug/06 2nd
with Chris
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
max_chan ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Rick
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
duncana 28/Aug/05 2nd

Very pleased to get through the overhang (on right), but tired in higher crack

with Pippa Archer
Dan Savory 16/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 06/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 2nd
Brown 02/Aug/05 2nd
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with John
GuyM ??/2005 -
with jim
cem 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Belayed at start of upper groove ( after crux) due to rope drag and seconded that section. Tough crux

with Jack G
Hidden 30/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead
pete johnson 27/Aug/00 2nd
with Enga Lokey
Martin Bennett 24/Aug/00 -
with MT
Billg ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/99 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/97 2nd
with Hugh
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
craig h 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
michael burrows 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/96 Lead
with seb Kramer
Hidden ?/Sep/95 AltLd
pete johnson 26/Aug/95 2nd
with Pete Swanson
mikej 19/Aug/95 Lead dnf
with Nick Salmon
steve taylor ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 26/Sep/93 2nd
with Bruce
Andy Edgar ??/1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Neil R 30/Aug/87 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 09/Aug/87 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Nigel Coe ??/1987 -
Neil McA 27/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Beak 2
Mike Owen 05/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
steve.aisthorpe 14/Sep/84 2nd
with shark
ukb & bmc shark 14/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Aug/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey, Dave McCann
Gary Gibson ?/Aug/83 2nd

With Phil

with Phil Gibson
Hidden 02/Oct/82 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set