Rockfax Description
The line of grooves and cracks between the corner and the cave of Strait Gate. Climb the grooves then move slightly right into the cracks. These lead steeply to a small groove on the right. Move up into a cave then climb the loose gully above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin 30.8.70 30/Aug/1970

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist, Orange Spot Pembroke.

NickJH 01/Nov/17 Lead
with Steve W
guy127917 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Bloody good route!

with Jen
Bones [:B 30/Aug/17 2nd β
Hannes B 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Sarah A, Charlie
Hidden 28/Aug/17 2nd
CharlieMack 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Sarah adkin, Hannes
John sealey 27/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
DanChad 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Very sustained. One of the hardest HVSs I've done.

Chris Murray 09/Aug/17 2nd
Nathan Chrismas ?/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Nick B
tom.ireson 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Clare Mains
Felicity Eperon 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Josh Abrahams
mutt 23/Jun/17 Lead
with adam devine, sarah
Sam Husband 28/May/17 Lead O/S
with Ed
Stroppy 28/May/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/17 2nd
mike hope 08/May/17 Lead

Great line, went off route to start. Good job it was dry !!

with Martin S
Hidden 17/Apr/17 Lead
catrin289 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Felt hard - possibly went off route

with Liz
samkat 16/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Glen Stidever
Dizz 16/Apr/17 2nd rpt
PaulTanton 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Francis Butler
Duncan Campbell 14/Apr/17 2nd

Jugs galore!

Si Clapham ??/2017 -
luke glaister 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S

It looked wet and was a warm up for the e2s. Well warm up was an understatement. The hardest I've had to try in a long time. Was on or off so many times. If it was an e1 I'd have just let go. But the ego said it's an hvs. Keep going. .. so damp and slimy. Did tempest after and walked up it. Hahah. If dry it would be a good challenge and solid hvs. Today. It was e11... lol loved it. 2**s.

Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
pdrums777 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S

led in one. nothing too serious. remember the rope when your rap in to my belay next time trev!

with Gareth (trev)
gman2 23/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with paul
Tom.Priestley 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Tony went the wrong way and tangled his ropes up so I lowerd him down and finished it off for him.

Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
FredTB 04/Sep/16 2nd
Stuart William 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Hard to climb and hard to read. Found this a lot more pumpy that I was expecting. Maybe I was tired at the end of the day but it felt bloody stiff.

with Mike
mikedevcole 07/Aug/16 2nd β

Tide was quickly coming in when belaying sat in the niche. Thankfully Stu finished just in time. Pumpy.

Francois R 06/Aug/16 2nd

5c. Similar difficulty as rock idol. Quite pumpy. Was nice belaying while the tide was going up.

with Pok
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/16 Lead rpt
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Rebecca
andybirtwistle 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Rather tough for the grade,keeps you going.

with Sue Birtwistle
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/16 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 27/May/16 2nd
with Iain M
gjd 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Sam Burns
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
poeter210 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quite tricky and not a lot of good rests, got a bit rattled

with argentinian machine
FelixL 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with joem
joem 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Andy England 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route, committing but awesome.....

sparbus 17/Jul/15 2nd
with mike b
Sardien 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Took very long on this and found the line not obvious as it should be.

ian d f 31/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 31/May/15 2nd
with Ian
andy_pemberton 26/May/15 Lead

A high tide hybrid pitch starting up the buttress between this route and The Straight Gate then moving left into the route proper.

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd RP
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
AdamCB 19/Aug/14 2nd
jgordon75 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tried to ab in for Zeppelin at high tide but round the wrong side of the overhang. A worthwhile route in its own right though and you get to go through the cave!

with Mark Nottridge
Dizz 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with rob p
guy757 14/Jul/14 -
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 27/May/14 Lead O/S

Steep and pumpy.

tobydunford 27/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Hoyes 27/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/14 2nd
Hidden 23/May/14 Lead O/S
khalidq 17/May/14 Lead dog
Harri777 17/May/14 2nd
with Khalid
Brannock 19/Apr/14 -

Felt tough, maybe just first route of the day and cold hands, some nice climbing, pushy in places.

Mike Tutt 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Cardi 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard, pumpy and got rather scared.

with Nik G
alastairbegley 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Slick 12/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 04/Nov/13 2nd β
EeFu 06/Oct/13 Lead
cem 06/Oct/13 2nd

Pretty greasy but a good route (in spite of the dodgy top-out) and well led by EeFu.

Rachel S 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Didn't like the loose top out. Nice route otherwise, top end HVS?

with Nik
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Dilwat 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue 27/Jul/13 Lead

tough for the grade, sustained and a thin section before the final crack to the through cave

Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andrew1 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Hulda
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd β
Hulda 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andi
r_o_b_h2 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
Katya 26/May/13 2nd
rlade 26/May/13 Lead
with Katya
duncan 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Neil Morbey 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with John Eanes
cbeard 25/Aug/12 Lead dog

One rest due to pump. A beefy outing.

Ed morris 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S

some quite awkward moves put it high in the grade.

with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Tough for the grade

mes32 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
chrisallan 28/May/12 Lead O/S

from high tide hanging belay above the groove.

TM_Horton 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

awesomely pumpy adventure! defiantly worth its 5a.

with will
Will Horton 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Great climb, took us a little longer than expected but a great climb all in all.

with Tom Horton
CRiddiford 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Chris
chrism225 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Ellen Cobby 23/Sep/11 2nd dog

Loved the cave at the top!

Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 28/Aug/11 Lead

I found this really tough, got completely pumped on lower section, messing aroud tryign to find gear. Nearly came off, and then again higher up because I couldnt grip anything! It was supposed to be a warm up for harder things but I was put off somewhat.Great climbing tho!

with Joris
freemanTom 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy. Went too far right and had to do funky traverse to get into the gully. Fun going through cave though rope drag was issue.

with Normal Steve
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
Dave Foster 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S


with Jim, Robin, Si
ojp 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Bit run out nice moves out the cave did the harder start

with Jim, Dave, Robin
robin_hackney 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S
andy dunn 01/May/11 Lead O/S

pretty strenuous, but HVS seems about right (a pretty tough one though).

with J
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
stuc ??/2011 2nd O/S
Julesthe1st 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

One star?? I thought this was spectacularly good! But then I haven't done Straight Gate or Rock Idol yet.

with Paul Wolf
owiowz 28/Jul/10 2nd dog
siwclimber 28/Jul/10 2nd

a slight overhang, very strengous on the forearms done in a multipitch. loose rocks at top.

with Aeron, Gaz, Owain
Jessie Rushbrooke 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with GF
matt.woodfield 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
conorjclarke 09/Jun/10 Lead

fell off rock idol and climbed up the second half of this

with adam coxsell
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd rpt
irish paul 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 02/May/10 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 02/May/10 2nd
mattyork2 08/Apr/10 2nd
RobRock84 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S

sustained climbing all the way,great route tho!

with Steve Quinton
Billg 19/Sep/09 2nd
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd
brockers 26/May/09 2nd O/S
with Midweekmountain
Hidden 25/May/09 -
davesimpson ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with charles ramadan
gripped01 ?/May/09 AltLd
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden ??/2009 -
ASchwirtz 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
alek 11/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead rpt
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden 15/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
VPJB ??/2008 -
david morse 28/May/07 Lead
with Stu Corns
Fat Tim 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
waltersp 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Surprisingly pumpy! under estimated the route, but it's a nice line with a cool cave towards the top

with Stu
waltersp 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Surprisingly pumpy! under estimated the route, but it's a nice line with a cool cave towards the top

with Stu
dan gibson 30/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with martina
Hidden 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Wil Treasure ??/2005 AltLd
Boxy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Aus
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Carl
al99 ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/03 2nd
LC ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2001 -
with chris praxmarer
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
shoulders 01/Aug/99 2nd
with pete lewis, dai
DafSWMC ?/Mar/99 Lead dog
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Budge ?/Aug/96 Lead dog
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 11/Jun/96 Lead
mikej 16/May/96 2nd
with John Flint, Nick Salmon
Andy Say 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/93 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1989 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
Mike Owen 15/Aug/85 2nd β
with Ian Carr
Martin Bennett 19/Jul/85 -
with IW
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Nigel Bond 26/Aug/84 Lead
with Ben Foord
tapley 25/May/81 2nd
with John Sumner
Hidden 05/Apr/81 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 07/Aug/76 2nd
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