Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, R.Pearce Sep/1972.
Ticklists
Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , E is for Easy... Right? , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Cianchi's Hit List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ariegeois | 15 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake came away years ago in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best, if not the best, at MCK! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake came away years ago in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best, if not the best, at MCK! |
||||
| plant_based_tommo | 3 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section. |
||||
| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall. |
||||
| salancaster | 6 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Crossing
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)