UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin Sep/1972

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Sam Brown 03/Sep Lead O/S
with Steve Quinton , Nat williams
Hidden 27/Aug Lead O/S
Robb Bert 24/Aug Lead O/S
with Kate Hawkins
Mike505 10/Aug Lead O/S

One of my favourite routes of the trip, the upper arête is incredible! E2 or low E3 take your pick. We used the high tide start, stepped of the ledge and immediately around the arête. The initial half is fun on sharp jugs and jams while the upper arête is thinner, more technical, above good gear and in a brilliant position.

with eb202
John McKenna 10/Aug Lead O/S

Soft E3?

DavidMcK 10/Aug 2nd O/S

Probably worth E3

eb202 10/Aug 2nd O/S

A beautiful pitch. What a position. Tricky and a little blind gaining the arete from the high tide ledge but it all falls into place.

with Mike505
Ursula 07/Aug 2nd β

Horrible sharp rock!!! Techy balancy moves high up. Was knackered seconding!

with Lyndsey
katiep 23/Jul 2nd O/S

Really lovely arete climbing

with slowmotion, Jonny P
slowmotion 23/Jul 2nd
with Lucia, katiep, funsized
Dave LJ 24/Jun TR
scarmichael 20/Jun 2nd O/S

Brilliant featured climbing low down

with Mihkel
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
Wendy 03/May Lead O/S
with Kel, Dave P
Stefan_Morris 30/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr 2nd O/S
rashwell 01/Jan 2nd
tim whitaker 21/Sep/17 Lead
with Callum Johnson
Hidden 21/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Hugh Simons 12/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Did at high tide so traversed in from the ledge to about 5 m below the first ledge on the arete. Amazing position and moves on that top arete, definitely my favourite single pitch E3 I've done to date. Would say it's a soft E3, but not E2. Amazing route.

Euan Todd 12/Sep/17 2nd O/S

Wonderful route. Did with a traverse in from the high tide ledge on Necropolis. Awesome lead by Hugh, that top arete is one of the best positions I've been on with any route. Really good climbing as well, using the arete there are good rests available, but you have to look for them. Low E3 with sustained 5c.

J_Spooner 31/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/17 2nd
Tom.Priestley 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S

E3 5c in cc guide. Fairly run out and balency 5c so seems fair. Good route.

Hidden 22/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Neil Adams 31/Jul/17 2nd O/S
andyinglis 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Exciting upper arête after tricky high tide start. Solid e3.

morganator ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
aiyer 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

That arete tho....

Wendy Watthews 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Thankfully my rope came tight first as Jake was left dodging waves at the bottom

feilx 23/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Callum , Gaetan L, funsized
Adam Booth 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Steady

Ed Booth 13/Jun/17 2nd O/S
The Grist 02/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28/May/17 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 27/May/17 Lead O/S
pete1993 27/May/17 2nd O/S

got soaked on the belay, first few metres were soaked and a hold broke, the top arete though......wow awesome climbing in a intimidating position

Dale Comley 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 28/Apr/17 2nd O/S
beni 16/Apr/17 Lead
with wojt
Si Clapham ??/2017 -
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Cheese Monkey 14/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Totally underrated quality pitch

just one more 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Lovely lower wall,then stick to the are arête from halfway. Superb climbing,great position, loved it!

scottcoates 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with williap
williap 29/Aug/16 2nd

Made all the more exciting with the rising tide / wet belay

Hidden 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Easy to the ledges where I took a belay.Really good after that

Matt77 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

The Wired guide gives this E3 and I think that's just about fair - it hovers at the E2 / E3 border. The ledges make the whole thing seems a lot less serious but the top half of the route has some fantastic moves some way from the gear (bomber). Whatever the grade it's brilliant.

with Shane
islandlynx 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Matt77
Ash Sayers 13/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Lakesben 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Awesome route with good protection. Rockfax and Cc guide gives it E3 so not sure why it says E2 here

with Mark
Hidden 18/Jun/16 2nd
MichaelGallimore 10/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Started up Crithmum then joined the arete below the ledges. Very nice position climbing the arete headwall.

with Flavio
Flavio 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/16 Lead
katy_abra 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd
soph 05/Jun/16 2nd rpt
miastacey ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
Mike_Hayes 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Avon Man 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Derek
Andy Moles 25/Apr/16 2nd
with ferdia
ferdia 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd
Luke Brooks 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with KB83
mike mo ??/2016 -
The Grist 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dan724 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with dan ely
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Cool climbing up the arête in a wild position. Not desperate for E3 but balancy and technical climbing with some run outs probably equals E3. I kept looking up thinking it was about to get desperate but it never really does. Really really good.

Rachel Slater 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice climbing in a nice position.

with Misha
Misha 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Nice to second, no doubt absorbing to lead!

nathanlee 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mal Scott
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Strenuous

with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tor, onlyfoddington
skippington 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice face climbing with occasional use of the arete. Had to climb up to belay from some higher ledges to escape the incoming tide whilst belaying at one point - it comes in fast!

Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
brices 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd β
Haydn Jones 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with pep
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

A great route, maybe my favourite at Moter Carey's so far. Just a great position with some really nice climbing!

martinazando 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with al99
Ed Babs 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Getting off the ground seemed to be he crux. Steady and pleasant after that.

with AlexD
AlexD 19/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed Babs
khawk 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with datoon
Ed morris 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

lots of good gear, nowhere bold but still E3.

with Adam Bevan
Owain Llewelyn 08/Mar/12 2nd
with Gareth E
catblack 21/Aug/11 2nd dog

Felt like i was bailing or going off route by using the big ledges. It's a weird line that can't decide if it's an arete climb or a crack climb, i didn't like it but i was in a grump that day. i reckon there is some 5c moves.

Andrew Barker 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Brown 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
david morse 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

felt like solid E3 to me. One barn doorish move a little higher above the gear than you would like. Lower section is amazing sustained 5a, with the crux near the top. A full grade harder than Brazen Buttress and Strait gate which I think are both benchmark Pembroke E2

with chris todd
C Mclean 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Malcolm
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Billg 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great position - betterto stay on the left all the way.

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 26/May/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Bamford
Hidden 19/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
cem 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
datoon 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with MJ
Pete Wimbush ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Steve McCann
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd
feilx 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??/2005 -
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with karin
pete johnson 19/May/01 -
with Paul Donnithorne
Hidden 17/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
D Tempest 13/Jun/99 Lead
with Rick
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
duncan 09/Apr/99 2nd
with Dan Donovan
dickypips ??/1999 2nd
with Steve James
nickdonohue ??/1998 Lead
with Jon Aylward
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Dave Rumney ??/1998 2nd
with Dennis Wong
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead O/S
neilh 24/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
nuts and bolts ?/Aug/90 -
AlexRenshaw 14/Jan/90 Lead
with jcw
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/89 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 30/May/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
Nigel Coe ??/1989 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
wynaptomos ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/86 -
with RA
Hidden 18/Jul/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 -
nicmac 01/May/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 01/May/84 2nd
with nicmac
Dave Turnbull ?/Apr/84 Lead
Steve Lewis 18/Mar/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mike Owen 23/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Tom Herley
Hidden 09/Apr/82 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Kim Greenald
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Hidden 23/Oct/77 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/77 2nd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 49
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set