40m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, R.Pearce Sep/1972

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), E is for Easy... Right?, Best of the rest and the ones that got away

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UserDateNotes
plant_based_tommo 3 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section.
huwtj 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall.
salancaster 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 19 Sep, 2019 2nd
Greg Cunningham 22 Aug, 2019 2nd rpt Lead 85/86. Great route!
Lead 85/86. Great route!
Rich Kirby 22 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
JendeHoxar 17 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Aug, 2019 2nd rpt
Hidden 29 Jul, 2019 2nd O/S
Owen Diba 29 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
plant_based_tommo 2 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S just the right balance of exciting and enjoyable for me. I somehow unclipped a cam with my leg on the upper arete leaving quite a run out. After some focussed down climbing and re-arranging of gear i went again and all was good
with Robyn Nelson
just the right balance of exciting and enjoyable for me. I somehow unclipped a cam with my leg on the upper arete leaving quite a run out. After some focussed down climbing and re-arranging of gear i went again and all was good
with Robyn Nelson
Hidden 1 Jul, 2019 Lead
Hidden 1 Jul, 2019 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 30 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
with milena
with milena
milena 30 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S
Jwatson 29 Jun, 2019 2nd
with CRead
with CRead
CRead 29 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S Great top section, all too tempting to run it out to the next half decent rest, though said rest never really comes so you better put something in!
with Jwatson
Great top section, all too tempting to run it out to the next half decent rest, though said rest never really comes so you better put something in!
with Jwatson
billb ?Jun, 2019 Lead O/S Felt more E3 than E2. Awesome exposure on the top arete, but there is always a bit of gear and a nice hold when you want it.
Felt more E3 than E2. Awesome exposure on the top arete, but there is always a bit of gear and a nice hold when you want it.
slowmotion 31 May, 2019 Lead
with Bramble's owner
with Bramble's owner
Ramon Marin 27 May, 2019 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick 27 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Rp20 24 May, 2019 Lead O/S Brilliant route. Excellent top.
with Elliot
Brilliant route. Excellent top.
with Elliot
Ian Carr 13 May, 2019 - E3
with Martin
E3
with Martin
mike lawrence? 10 May, 2019 2nd
rachelpearce01 10 May, 2019 2nd
Hidden 10 May, 2019 Lead O/S
George_Surf 10 May, 2019 Lead O/S Off the ledge, feels a bit bold and committing above rocks/water. Once on the face it’s all good. Juggy lower half, then sustained top. Wanted to avoid the ledge but I’d run it out a bit and was getting tired! Balancy on the arête and a bit of commitment required. Low end e3 for me
Off the ledge, feels a bit bold and committing above rocks/water. Once on the face it’s all good. Juggy lower half, then sustained top. Wanted to avoid the ledge but I’d run it out a bit and was getting tired! Balancy on the arête and a bit of commitment required. Low end e3 for me
Hidden 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S
GraMc 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with misha birthday crew
with misha birthday crew
Von T 5 May, 2019 2nd
with GraMc
with GraMc
Hidden 5 May, 2019 2nd O/S
foobar123 5 May, 2019 2nd O/S Really nice! Easy hug-hauling at the bottom, then a good rest before the harder moves on the arete.
Really nice! Easy hug-hauling at the bottom, then a good rest before the harder moves on the arete.
elliotphillips43 ?May, 2019 2nd O/S
with Rich yo
with Rich yo
Gus 21 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
with Vicky hurley, ben rouse
with Vicky hurley, ben rouse
Katekeltie 21 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
WB 20 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 20 Apr, 2019 2nd rpt
with WB
with WB
Sam Brown 20 Apr, 2019 Lead rpt
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
Simon King 18 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S Worth E3 ***?
Worth E3 ***?
esther ?Apr, 2019 2nd
Sam Brown 3 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Steve Quinton , Nat williams
with Steve Quinton , Nat williams
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Robb Bert 24 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Kate Hawkins
with Kate Hawkins
Mike505 10 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S One of my favourite routes of the trip, the upper arête is incredible! E2 or low E3 take your pick. We used the high tide start, stepped of the ledge and immediately around the arête. The initial half is fun on sharp jugs and jams while the upper arête is thinner, more technical, above good gear and in a brilliant position.
with eb202
One of my favourite routes of the trip, the upper arête is incredible! E2 or low E3 take your pick. We used the high tide start, stepped of the ledge and immediately around the arête. The initial half is fun on sharp jugs and jams while the upper arête is thinner, more technical, above good gear and in a brilliant position.
with eb202
John McKenna 10 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Soft E3?
Soft E3?
DavidMcK 10 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Probably worth E3
Probably worth E3
Hidden 10 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Ursula 7 Aug, 2018 2nd β Horrible sharp rock!!! Techy balancy moves high up. Was knackered seconding!
with Lyndsey
Horrible sharp rock!!! Techy balancy moves high up. Was knackered seconding!
with Lyndsey
katiep 23 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Really lovely arete climbing
with slowmotion, Jonny P
Really lovely arete climbing
with slowmotion, Jonny P
slowmotion 23 Jul, 2018 2nd
Dave LJ 24 Jun, 2018 TR
scarmichael 20 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Brilliant featured climbing low down
Brilliant featured climbing low down
Mike Dudley 20 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S E3 in the CC guide, which I’ll take. Superb climbing, well protected.
E3 in the CC guide, which I’ll take. Superb climbing, well protected.
GeorgT ?Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jamie Thornley
with Jamie Thornley
Wendy 3 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Kel, Dave P
with Kel, Dave P
Stefan_Morris 30 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
rashwell 1 Jan, 2018 2nd
tim whitaker 21 Sep, 2017 Lead
with Callum Johnson
with Callum Johnson
Hidden 21 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Hugh Simons 12 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Did at high tide so traversed in from the ledge to about 5 m below the first ledge on the arete. Amazing position and moves on that top arete, definitely my favourite single pitch E3 I've done to date. Would say it's a soft E3, but not E2. Amazing route.
Did at high tide so traversed in from the ledge to about 5 m below the first ledge on the arete. Amazing position and moves on that top arete, definitely my favourite single pitch E3 I've done to date. Would say it's a soft E3, but not E2. Amazing route.
Euan Todd 12 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S Wonderful route. Did with a traverse in from the high tide ledge on Necropolis. Awesome lead by Hugh, that top arete is one of the best positions I've been on with any route. Really good climbing as well, using the arete there are good rests available, but you have to look for them. Low E3 with sustained 5c.
Wonderful route. Did with a traverse in from the high tide ledge on Necropolis. Awesome lead by Hugh, that top arete is one of the best positions I've been on with any route. Really good climbing as well, using the arete there are good rests available, but you have to look for them. Low E3 with sustained 5c.
J_Spooner 31 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2017 2nd
Tom.Priestley 22 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S E3 5c in cc guide. Fairly run out and balency 5c so seems fair. Good route.
E3 5c in cc guide. Fairly run out and balency 5c so seems fair. Good route.
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Neil Adams 31 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
andyinglis 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Exciting upper arête after tricky high tide start. Solid e3.
Exciting upper arête after tricky high tide start. Solid e3.
morganator ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Martin Cooper ?Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden 25 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
aiyer 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S That arete tho....
That arete tho....
Wendy Watthews 25 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Thankfully my rope came tight first as Jake was left dodging waves at the bottom
Thankfully my rope came tight first as Jake was left dodging waves at the bottom
feilx 23 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Callum , Gaetan L, funsized
with Callum , Gaetan L, funsized
Adam Booth 13 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Steady
Steady
Ed Booth 13 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
The Grist 2 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Roisin
with Roisin
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
pete1993 27 May, 2017 2nd O/S got soaked on the belay, first few metres were soaked and a hold broke, the top arete though......wow awesome climbing in a intimidating position
got soaked on the belay, first few metres were soaked and a hold broke, the top arete though......wow awesome climbing in a intimidating position
Dale Comley 28 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 28 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
beni 16 Apr, 2017 Lead
with wojt
with wojt
Si Clapham ??, 2017 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2017 -
tjmillen ??, 2017 Lead
Cheese Monkey 14 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Totally underrated quality pitch
Totally underrated quality pitch
just one more 14 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Lovely lower wall,then stick to the are arête from halfway. Superb climbing,great position, loved it!
Lovely lower wall,then stick to the are arête from halfway. Superb climbing,great position, loved it!
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
williap 29 Aug, 2016 2nd Made all the more exciting with the rising tide / wet belay
Made all the more exciting with the rising tide / wet belay
Hidden 23 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 23 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Easy to the ledges where I took a belay.Really good after that
Easy to the ledges where I took a belay.Really good after that
Matt77 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S The Wired guide gives this E3 and I think that's just about fair - it hovers at the E2 / E3 border. The ledges make the whole thing seems a lot less serious but the top half of the route has some fantastic moves some way from the gear (bomber). Whatever the grade it's brilliant.
with Shane
The Wired guide gives this E3 and I think that's just about fair - it hovers at the E2 / E3 border. The ledges make the whole thing seems a lot less serious but the top half of the route has some fantastic moves some way from the gear (bomber). Whatever the grade it's brilliant.
with Shane
islandlynx 31 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Matt77
with Matt77
Ash Sayers 13 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Lakesben 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome route with good protection. Rockfax and Cc guide gives it E3 so not sure why it says E2 here
with Mark
Awesome route with good protection. Rockfax and Cc guide gives it E3 so not sure why it says E2 here
with Mark
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Flavio 10 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 2nd
soph 5 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
miastacey ?Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
with Sophie Whyte
ben.meakin 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Avon Man 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Derek
with Derek
Andy Moles 25 Apr, 2016 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 25 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Mar, 2016 2nd
Luke Brooks 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with KB83
with KB83
mike mo ??, 2016 -
The Grist 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Dan Hale 22 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
Duncan Campbell 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S Cool climbing up the arête in a wild position. Not desperate for E3 but balancy and technical climbing with some run outs probably equals E3. I kept looking up thinking it was about to get desperate but it never really does. Really really good.
Cool climbing up the arête in a wild position. Not desperate for E3 but balancy and technical climbing with some run outs probably equals E3. I kept looking up thinking it was about to get desperate but it never really does. Really really good.
Rachel Slater 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S Nice climbing in a nice position.
with Misha
Nice climbing in a nice position.
with Misha
Misha 23 May, 2015 2nd O/S Nice to second, no doubt absorbing to lead!
Nice to second, no doubt absorbing to lead!
nathanlee 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mal Scott
with Mal Scott
Vnockles 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Strenuous
with Ian Faulkner
Strenuous
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tor, onlyfoddington
with Tor, onlyfoddington
skippington 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 17 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
shed_hed 17 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Nice face climbing with occasional use of the arete. Had to climb up to belay from some higher ledges to escape the incoming tide whilst belaying at one point - it comes in fast!
Nice face climbing with occasional use of the arete. Had to climb up to belay from some higher ledges to escape the incoming tide whilst belaying at one point - it comes in fast!
CJEFF 13 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S as the tide was coming in
with Thomas Ramsdon
as the tide was coming in
with Thomas Ramsdon
brices 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
with Sash.C
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 2nd β
Haydn Jones 1 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
jcw ??, 2013 -
al99 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S A great route, maybe my favourite at Moter Carey's so far. Just a great position with some really nice climbing!
A great route, maybe my favourite at Moter Carey's so far. Just a great position with some really nice climbing!
martinazando 14 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
with al99
with al99
Ed Babs 19 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Getting off the ground seemed to be he crux. Steady and pleasant after that.
with AlexD
Getting off the ground seemed to be he crux. Steady and pleasant after that.
with AlexD
AlexD 19 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
khawk 2 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Ed morris 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S lots of good gear, nowhere bold but still E3.
with Adam Bevan
lots of good gear, nowhere bold but still E3.
with Adam Bevan
Owain Llewelyn 8 Mar, 2012 2nd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
catblack 21 Aug, 2011 2nd dog Felt like i was bailing or going off route by using the big ledges. It's a weird line that can't decide if it's an arete climb or a crack climb, i didn't like it but i was in a grump that day. i reckon there is some 5c moves.
Felt like i was bailing or going off route by using the big ledges. It's a weird line that can't decide if it's an arete climb or a crack climb, i didn't like it but i was in a grump that day. i reckon there is some 5c moves.
Andrew Barker 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
pipof747 30 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
markalmack 9 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with james marjot
with james marjot
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Brown 23 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
david morse 8 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S felt like solid E3 to me. One barn doorish move a little higher above the gear than you would like. Lower section is amazing sustained 5a, with the crux near the top. A full grade harder than Brazen Buttress and Strait gate which I think are both benchmark Pembroke E2
with chris todd
felt like solid E3 to me. One barn doorish move a little higher above the gear than you would like. Lower section is amazing sustained 5a, with the crux near the top. A full grade harder than Brazen Buttress and Strait gate which I think are both benchmark Pembroke E2
with chris todd
C Mclean 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Kieran O' Sullivan
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 7 Apr, 2010 2nd
with Malcolm
with Malcolm
JulesV ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Billg 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S great position - betterto stay on the left all the way.
with Megan Beaumont
great position - betterto stay on the left all the way.
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden 26 May, 2009 2nd
Hidden 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
HughM ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben Bamford
with Ben Bamford
Hidden 19 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2007 Lead
cem 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
datoon 27 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with MJ
with MJ
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Steve McCann
with Steve McCann
Hidden 15 Jul, 2006 2nd
feilx 15 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2004 Lead
Steve Crowe 8 Apr, 2004 AltLd O/S
with karin
with karin
pete johnson 19 May, 2001 -
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
Hidden 17 Apr, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
D Tempest 13 Jun, 1999 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
John Southworth ?May, 1999 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
with Stone Elworthy
duncan 9 Apr, 1999 2nd
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
dickypips ??, 1999 2nd
with Steve James
with Steve James
nickdonohue ??, 1998 Lead
with Jon Aylward
with Jon Aylward
Steve Long ??, 1998 -
Dave Rumney ??, 1998 2nd
with Dennis Wong
with Dennis Wong
phil64 ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
neilh 24 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
with sara hyde
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1991 Lead O/S
nuts and bolts ?Aug, 1990 -
AlexRenshaw 14 Jan, 1990 Lead
with jcw
with jcw
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 1989 Lead
Andy Say 2 Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 30 May, 1989 Lead
Hidden ??, 1989 -
Nigel Coe ??, 1989 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
Martin Bennett 23 Jul, 1986 -
with RA
with RA
Robmwatt ?Jul, 1986 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden 18 Jul, 1985 Lead
Hidden ??, 1985 -
nicmac 1 May, 1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 1 May, 1984 2nd
with nicmac
with nicmac
Dave Turnbull ?Apr, 1984 Lead
Steve Lewis 18 Mar, 1984 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Mike Owen 23 Oct, 1982 Lead O/S
with Tom Herley
with Tom Herley
Hidden 9 Apr, 1982 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17 Apr, 1981 Lead
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
with Martin Corbett
with Martin Corbett
Hidden 23 Oct, 1977 Lead
Hidden 2 Jan, 1977 2nd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set