Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin 9.72 Sep/1972

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Cheese Monkey 14/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Totally underrated quality pitch

just one more 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Lovely lower wall,then stick to the are arÍte from halfway. Superb climbing,great position, loved it!

williap 29/Aug/16 2nd

Made all the more exciting with the rising tide / wet belay

scottcoates 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with williap
chris wyatt 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Easy to the ledges where I took a belay.Really good after that

alan rosier 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Tricky and run out getting onto the face. Balance upper arete.

islandlynx 31/Jul/16 2nd
Matt77 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

The Wired guide gives this E3 and I think that's just about fair - it hovers at the E2 / E3 border. The ledges make the whole thing seems a lot less serious but the top half of the route has some fantastic moves some way from the gear (bomber). Whatever the grade it's brilliant.

with Shane
Ash Sayers 13/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Lakesben 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Awesome route with good protection. Rockfax and Cc guide gives it E3 so not sure why it says E2 here

with Mark
nigel bassam 18/Jun/16 2nd
with paul
FlavioL1989 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 10/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Started up Crithmum then joined the arete below the ledges. Very nice position climbing the arete headwall.

with Flavio
Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/16 Lead
katy_abra 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
soph 05/Jun/16 2nd rpt
miastacey ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
Mike_Hayes 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Avon Man 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Derek
Andy Moles 25/Apr/16 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Andy
Luke Brooks 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd
mike mo ??/2016 -
The Grist 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dan724 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
Misha 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Nice to second, no doubt absorbing to lead!

with Rachel
nathanlee 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mal Scott
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Cool climbing up the arÍte in a wild position. Not desperate for E3 but balancy and technical climbing with some run outs probably equals E3. I kept looking up thinking it was about to get desperate but it never really does. Really really good.

Rachel Slater 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice climbing in a nice position.

with Misha
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S


with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tor, David Brock
skippington 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice face climbing with occasional use of the arete. Had to climb up to belay from some higher ledges to escape the incoming tide whilst belaying at one point - it comes in fast!

dswansonlow 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd β
brices 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sash
Haydn Jones 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with pep
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

A great route, maybe my favourite at Moter Carey's so far. Just a great position with some really nice climbing!

martinazando 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Getting off the ground seemed to be he crux. Steady and pleasant after that.

with AlexD
AlexD 19/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
khawk 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with DT
Ed morris 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

lots of good gear, nowhere bold but still E3.

with Adam Bevan
Owain Llewelyn 08/Mar/12 2nd
with Gareth E
catblack 21/Aug/11 2nd dog

Felt like i was bailing or going off route by using the big ledges. It's a weird line that can't decide if it's an arete climb or a crack climb, i didn't like it but i was in a grump that day. i reckon there is some 5c moves.

Andrew Barker 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Brown 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with James T
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
david morse 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

felt like solid E3 to me. One barn doorish move a little higher above the gear than you would like. Lower section is amazing sustained 5a, with the crux near the top. A full grade harder than Brazen Buttress and Strait gate which I think are both benchmark Pembroke E2

with chris todd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
C Mclean 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Malcolm
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Billg 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great position - betterto stay on the left all the way.

with Megan Beaumont
Shauna 28/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Bamford
Hidden 19/Jul/08 2nd O/S
LC ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
cem 05/May/07 Lead O/S
datoon 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with MJ
feilx 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with KM
Hidden 17/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
D Tempest 13/Jun/99 Lead
with Rick
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
duncan 09/Apr/99 2nd
with Dan Donovan
dickypips ??/1999 2nd
with Steve James
nickdonohue ??/1998 Lead
with Jon Aylward
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead O/S
neilh 24/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/89 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 30/May/89 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1989 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??/1989 -
wynaptomos ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/86 -
with RA
Hidden 18/Jul/85 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Mark Kemball 01/May/84 2nd
nicmac 01/May/84 Lead
Steve Lewis 18/Mar/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mike Owen 23/Oct/82 -
with Tom Herley
Hidden 09/Apr/82 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Kim Greenald
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Hidden 02/Jan/77 2nd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set