Rockfax Description
A good route which takes a line up the cracked wall starting as for Crithmum. Move up a crack, trend rightwards out of Crithmum, to a square-cut niche in the centre of the wall. Follow the twin cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin 23.12.68 23/Dec/1968

Ticklists: Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke.

rachelpearce01 28/Sep Lead O/S
George_Surf 28/Sep 2nd O/S

From the massive niche. The cracks were mostly juggy with a few harder moves. Hard for VS

JackSewell1997 25/Sep Lead O/S
with Michael
guy127917 30/Aug Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen-a-Thor 30/Aug 2nd β
Tala A 27/Aug 2nd RP

Wasn't feeling very well so decided a VS would be ok, this VS was not ok though! Started leading it, start felt mega tough and just didn't fancy it. Lowered down and seconded mike up it. Exhausted by the end. The mega sun didn't help either.

edwards_nicholas 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Glen Stidever
Wendy Watthews 25/Aug Lead O/S
TGHB 25/Aug 2nd dog

Only a dog due to somebody overcamming my blue boy, needing two hands for removal. Sustained crack with decent rests.

Arran W 07/Aug Lead O/S

Awesome route. Requires a little more thought that anticipated ????

with Anna
Nathan Chrismas ?/Aug 2nd O/S
with Nick B
tom.ireson 23/Jul Lead O/S
with Clare Mains
Hidden 13/Jul 2nd
Chrissy202 13/Jul Lead O/S
with Luke
Steve Waters, Mynydd 12/Jul Lead
mtempest 12/Jul 2nd
eb202 07/Jul 2nd O/S
with Michael
Mike505 07/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun 2nd O/S
Tophe 23/Jun 2nd
with Nina
RobScarisbrick 23/Jun 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun Lead O/S
ninastirrup 22/Jun Lead O/S
jonny_098 30/May Lead O/S
CarlaJG 27/May 2nd
franhammond92 27/May Lead dnf

Took over after Carla decided the start wasn't for her. It was only just for me in the end, felt pretty hard. Eventually got to half way up the main cracks but a severe case of the mega-fear stopped play there. Stood around for about 2 hours watching people progress to each side and wandering if I should ask for a rope before eventually deciding to go down a bit and traverse into the cracks. Not my best performance...

C@rwyn 25/May Lead O/S
with Flo
Hidden 19/May 2nd
Richardlake 17/Apr Lead O/S
will_lake 17/Apr 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd O/S
samkat 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Fran
mountain.martin 27/Mar Lead rpt

With different rh start.

tom jefferies 18/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 04/Sep/16 Lead
with Pete Kelly
HannahC 02/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
bryan61 02/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with hannah, sally
Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd
Stanners 11/Aug/16 2nd O/S

really good. All very straightforward but gets a little more technical at the top.

with Giles
John Bunney 04/Jul/16 2nd
with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul/16 Lead O/S
pdrums777 17/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Nice warm up. Well protected.

with Gareth (trev)
Moritz L 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Dan0Me 08/Jun/16 2nd
CRead 05/Jun/16 2nd
Jenn_Stretton 30/May/16 2nd O/S
DaveThexton 30/May/16 Lead O/S
pimpy 29/May/16 Lead
with clare muir
Avon Man 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with Derek
Andy England 22/May/16 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Jayne
Hidden 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S
gjd 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Burns
gurumed 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with gjd
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
Jack93 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 09/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
thetradlad 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Ollie Willmot, Annie Rose
wurzelinzummerset 08/Aug/15 2nd

Top-end VS. Although obviously easier overall than The Strait Gate the hardest moves weren't a whole lot easier than the crux moves on that climb.

with Ric
bonelessivar 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 2nd
cem 31/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Deniz Sumengen
Hidden 28/Jul/15 2nd rpt
fatbuoybazza 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with TimG
Avon Man 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Derek
Hidden 08/Jul/15 2nd
mjeffery 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Steve
james1978 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
hotfeet 26/May/15 2nd
RichyBOYY 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Dunx 25/May/15 2nd
with Jake Thompsett
Cheese Monkey 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Ric E
Anna Maykova 24/May/15 Lead
with Ian
chancer 24/May/15 2nd O/S

A tricky start leads to some quality jamming.

with Jason Wood
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead
Vincej 23/May/15 2nd
with Nevil
Flavio 22/May/15 2nd O/S
the power 12/May/15 2nd O/S
with rob
dr_botnik 12/May/15 Lead O/S
SEDaniels 01/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
casey johns 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Quality route. Hard vs and pumpy start which stays with u till the top out. Well worth a look.

Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with David Brock, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Tor, David Brock
onlyfoddington 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Quite sustained with some good jamming. A freaky nest of huge chicks off to the left near the abseil.

with Tor, Ian
eduardo 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mike D, Mark H
MD 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Mark H, Ed
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Robyn
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Phil Baxter, Alex Twist
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 26/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Great route, thought it was about right for the grade!

with Tom R
Adam24B 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Kris2fa 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Adam24B
PilarMartinez 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Harder than other VSs in Pembroke

Martin Bagshaw 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 30/Aug/14 2nd
arthur_de_briton 23/Aug/14 Lead
with cat mckenna
brices 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
tim_mcd 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David B
Steven Carter 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S
JClimb 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
jgordon75 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Nottridge
hazeysunshine 28/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Alex
skippington 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Eoinparker 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
HassenBali 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Danstephens 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with remi richards, maddie sweetman
Maddie 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Climbed this very badly. Just wasn't expecting it to be so hard I think. Tough for VS

with Remi Richards, Dan S
CameronH 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Lucy Sawyer, Phil Glass
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Spillers 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nathan Kitcher
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
AndrewP 27/May/14 Lead O/S

A tough VS. Went left out of the niche rather than pull through the boulders.

FelixPeterken 27/May/14 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
John Brayshaw 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/May/14 2nd
with John
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Murilo Lessa 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Feels a bit hard for the grade.

with Lee Harisson
Big Lee 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Good moves up the initial diagonal break. Some crazy bridging to get around the boulder above the niche. Felt sustained and pumpy in the upper half. Plus maybe ran it out a little too much. Didn't trust the loose flake hold so needed to switch the right crack, which maybe made things a little harder?

Cardi 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route, a few worrying holds. Tough for VS.

with Nik G
andy_pemberton 10/Apr/14 Lead
with Richard Woods
Andrew1 08/Apr/14 Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 08/Apr/14 2nd
with Andi
Hidden 04/Nov/13 2nd β
EeFu 06/Oct/13 Lead
cem 06/Oct/13 2nd
Calder 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A pumpy old warm up

with Rich
RCrockford 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Graham
Rachel S 06/Sep/13 2nd
with Nik
bwestwood ?/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
m675bowsl 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
SianD 09/Aug/13 2nd
AlexD 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S
KDhruev 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
Elsier 17/Jun/13 2nd
with Adrian
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd β
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
Katya 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Done in 1 pitch

rlade 26/May/13 2nd
with Katya
msoldn 19/May/13 2nd O/S

fantastic route at this grade!

with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
vinspin 13/May/13 2nd O/S
with GerM
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Julie Carroll 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
duncan 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rowan Mitchell 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Andre Steele
Robin Woodward ?/Oct/12 Lead
Stuart Johnston 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Cowell
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 2nd
mattyork2 11/Aug/12 Lead

Really enjoyed this. Had forgotten seconding it. Took left crack at top and it felt really quite challenging!

petellis 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/12 Lead
with Westy
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Helnorris 22/Jul/12 2nd
stvredmond 22/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good route and worth the 2 stars.

BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 01/Jun/12 2nd
with John (Mike's pal), Mike Lea
chrisallan 28/May/12 Lead O/S
mes32 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
benjih2o 14/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure.

with peter baily
pembrokeshirecaver 24/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Martin
sara n 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Felt hard for a 4c!

with Karl Blanchet
mountain.martin 12/Apr/12 Lead rpt
vanderz 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Big Ben
Lenny 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Adam
ads 25/Mar/12 Lead
with leon
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 -
JakeWShaw 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S

First VS second

JemG 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 11/Jan/12 Lead
keith leonard ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Daniel Wicks 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Oli
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Wicks, Olly
LC ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

JT backed off the start. I led & toko a belay in the cave. On p.2, I moved right into the higher niche then moved left into the twin cracks. Excellent, pumpy climbing!

with John Tebay (LC&CC)
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
brian watson 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Leelogs 28/Aug/11 Lead dog

Found it quite steep and when I couldn't work out the crux, rested on the gear :-(

with SCC
AndyMcCoy 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Andy
freemanTom 27/Aug/11 2nd


with Normal Steve
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

what a cracking route, solid 2 stars as per the latest rockfax guide, really enjoyed

Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Finished up this after first two pitches of Threadneedle. Loose spike is a bit alarming, but lovely holds and fairly well protected.

with Andy B
Hidden 19/Jul/11 -
3kidsandanorton 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Pete Templar
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
tim20 09/Jun/11 Lead
with pabs
Roger Cruse 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Kris
Ewan Russell 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Powley
Ian Broome 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Simon
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Katherine Ross 12/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Sustained climbing - one of the scariest VSs I've seconded.

aipattison 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
RagingPuffin 12/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Katherine, Alex P
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tobydunford 10/Apr/11 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Sgt. Vest 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Shauna 07/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Annelies
HowieB ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 12/Sep/10 2nd
with J
LoopyLou 28/Aug/10 2nd

Second for Alison Cairns. Deceptively steep, one little move on poor footholds but otherwise jugs and pleasant.

Pay Attention 28/Aug/10 Lead
with MD
MD 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Bob, Paul H
hazeysunshine 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
Gwilym 'ledge' Jones ?/Jul/10 2nd
Shauna 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
Greg Pittam 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Howel
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
TM_Horton ?/May/10 2nd
with luca chiffi
mattyork2 07/Apr/10 2nd
Pown 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
brockers ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Meanmachine Meaney 30/Jan/10 2nd O/S

First VS

Ed morris 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Morgans first VS. The move out of the cave was the crux for me, a hand shredding struggle.

cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Bux 24/May/09 2nd
with Ruth Bevan
Bux 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth Bevan
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Garrett
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lee Bonner
Kit Gillibrand 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S

mind the loose jug...

with Roly Chuter
Rollo 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Good pro but steep and scary, esp with loose hold around crux moves. Looser now that Kit has been by!

with Kit
Bob M 26/Aug/07 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/07 2nd
with Beesley
tlmarjot ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
david morse 28/May/07 Lead
with Stu Corns
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/07 AltLd
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
chris j 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with James & Doug
Fat Tim 31/May/06 Lead O/S
tom.e 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Boxy 29/May/06 Lead rpt
Different Steve 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Laramadness 30/Jul/04 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/03 Lead
phardman 25/May/01 Lead O/S
auld al ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
Roget 28/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Aug/98 2nd
with Sam Dew
Hidden 30/Aug/98 Lead O/S
lorens holm ??/1998 2nd O/S
with Clare
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
mikej 16/May/96 2nd
with John Flint, Nick Salmon
Martin Bennett 08/May/95 -
with MT
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 2nd
Hidden 14/May/89 Lead
Nigel Bond 25/Aug/85 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Martin Bennett 18/Jul/85 -
with IW
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with Jo
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Nigel Bond 26/Aug/84 Lead
with Ben Foord
andybirtwistle 26/Apr/84 2nd
with Ernie Greenwood
mark-abz 08/Nov/80 2nd
with ?
Hidden ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Morty
Hidden 06/Aug/76 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set