Rockfax Description
A good route which takes a line up the cracked wall starting as for Crithmum. Move up a crack, trend rightwards out of Crithmum, to a square-cut niche in the centre of the wall. Follow the twin cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin 23.12.68 23/Dec/1968

Ticklists: Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke.

tom jefferies 18/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 04/Sep/16 Lead
with Pete Kelly
bryan61 02/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with hannah, sally
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd
Stanners 11/Aug/16 2nd O/S

really good. All very straightforward but gets a little more technical at the top.

with Giles
John Bunney 04/Jul/16 2nd
with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul/16 Lead O/S
pdrums777 17/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Nice warm up. Well protected.

with Gareth (trev)
Moritz L 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Dan0Me 08/Jun/16 2nd
CRead 05/Jun/16 2nd
DaveThexton 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 30/May/16 2nd O/S
pimpy 29/May/16 Lead
with clare muir
Avon Man 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with Derek
Andy England 22/May/16 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Jayne
Hidden 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S
gurumed 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with gjd
gjd 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Burns
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
JulianB 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rob Hinton
Jack93 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 09/Sep/15 2nd O/S
climbEdclimb 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Ian Stevens
thetradlad 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Ollie Willmot, Annie Byass-Clark
bonelessivar 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 08/Aug/15 2nd

Top-end VS. Although obviously easier overall than The Strait Gate the hardest moves weren't a whole lot easier than the crux moves on that climb.

with Ric
Laurence Everitt 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 2nd
cem 31/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Deniz Sumengen
Hidden 28/Jul/15 2nd rpt
fatbuoybazza 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with TimG
Avon Man 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Derek
Hidden 08/Jul/15 2nd
mjeffery 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Steve
james1978 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
hotfeet 26/May/15 2nd
Cheese Monkey 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Ric E
RichyBOYY 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Dunx 25/May/15 2nd
with Jake Thompsett
chancer 24/May/15 2nd O/S

A tricky start leads to some quality jamming.

with Jason Wood
Anna Maykova 24/May/15 Lead
with Ian
Nevil 23/May/15 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 23/May/15 2nd
with Nevil
FlavioL1989 22/May/15 2nd O/S
dr_botnik 12/May/15 Lead O/S
the power 12/May/15 2nd O/S
with rob
SEDaniels 01/May/15 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Quality route. Hard vs and pumpy start which stays with u till the top out. Well worth a look.

casey johns 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with David Brock, Ian Faulkner
onlyfoddington 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Quite sustained with some good jamming. A freaky nest of huge chicks off to the left near the abseil.

with Tor, Ian
ian d f 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Tor, David Brock
MD 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Mark H, Ed
eduardo 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mike D, Mark H
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Robyn
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Phil Baxter, Alex Twist
alan rosier 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 26/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Great route, thought it was about right for the grade!

with Tom R
Kris2fa 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Adam24B
PilarMartinez 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Harder than other VSs in Pembroke

with TheCherokee
clairemathews 30/Aug/14 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
arthur_de_briton 23/Aug/14 Lead
with cat mckenna
brices 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
tim_mcd 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David B
Steven Carter 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
JClimb 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
hazeysunshine 28/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Alex
skippington 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
HassenBali 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Eoinparker 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Curly Rich 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with gmc
Danstephens 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with remi richards, maddie sweetman
Maddie 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Climbed this very badly. Just wasn't expecting it to be so hard I think. Tough for VS

with Remi Richards, Dan S
CameronH 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Lucy Sawyer, Phil Glass
Spillers 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nathan Kitcher
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
AndrewP 27/May/14 Lead O/S

A tough VS. Went left out of the niche rather than pull through the boulders.

FelixPeterken 27/May/14 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
John Brayshaw 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/May/14 2nd
with John
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Big Lee 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Good moves up the initial diagonal break. Some crazy bridging to get around the boulder above the niche. Felt sustained and pumpy in the upper half. Plus maybe ran it out a little too much. Didn't trust the loose flake hold so needed to switch the right crack, which maybe made things a little harder?

Murilo Lessa 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Feels a bit hard for the grade.

with Lee Harisson
Cardi 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route, a few worrying holds. Tough for VS.

with Nik G
andy_pemberton 10/Apr/14 Lead
with Richard Woods
Andrew1 08/Apr/14 Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 08/Apr/14 2nd
with Andi
Hidden 04/Nov/13 2nd β
cem 06/Oct/13 2nd
EeFu 06/Oct/13 Lead
RCrockford 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Graham
Calder 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A pumpy old warm up

with Rich
Rachel S 06/Sep/13 2nd
with Nik
bwestwood ?/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
m675bowsl 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
SianD 09/Aug/13 2nd
AlexD 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S
KDhruev 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
Elsier 17/Jun/13 2nd
with Adrian
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd β
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
Katya 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Done in 1 pitch

rlade 26/May/13 2nd
with Katya
msoldn 19/May/13 2nd O/S

fantastic route at this grade!

with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
vinspin 13/May/13 2nd O/S
with GerM
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Julie Carroll 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
duncan 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rowan Mitchell 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Andre Steele
Robin Woodward ?/Oct/12 Lead
Stuart Johnston 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Cowell
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 2nd
mattyork2 11/Aug/12 Lead

Really enjoyed this. Had forgotten seconding it. Took left crack at top and it felt really quite challenging!

petellis 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
stvredmond 22/Jul/12 Lead
Helnorris 22/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good route and worth the 2 stars.

Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 01/Jun/12 2nd
with John (Mike's pal), Mike Lea
chrisallan 28/May/12 Lead O/S
mes32 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
benjih2o 14/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure.

with peter baily
pembrokeshirecaver 24/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Martin
sara n 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Felt hard for a 4c!

with Karl Blanchet
mountain.martin 12/Apr/12 Lead rpt
vanderz 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Big Ben
Lenny 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Adam
ads 25/Mar/12 Lead
with leon
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 -
JemG 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S

First VS second

matt.woodfield 11/Jan/12 Lead
keith leonard ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Wicks, Olly
LC ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

JT backed off the start. I led & toko a belay in the cave. On p.2, I moved right into the higher niche then moved left into the twin cracks. Excellent, pumpy climbing!

with John Tebay (LC&CC)
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Leelogs 28/Aug/11 Lead dog

Found it quite steep and when I couldn't work out the crux, rested on the gear :-(

with SCC
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
freemanTom 27/Aug/11 2nd


with Normal Steve
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

what a cracking route, solid 2 stars as per the latest rockfax guide, really enjoyed

Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Finished up this after first two pitches of Threadneedle. Loose spike is a bit alarming, but lovely holds and fairly well protected.

with Andy B
Hidden 19/Jul/11 -
3kidsandanorton 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Pete Templar
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
tim20 09/Jun/11 Lead
with pabs
Roger Cruse 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Kris
Ewan Russell 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Powley
Ian Broome 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Simon
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Alasdair88 12/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Katherine, Alex P
Katherine Ross 12/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Sustained climbing - one of the scariest VSs I've seconded.

aipattison 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
tobydunford 10/Apr/11 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shauna 07/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Annelies
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 12/Sep/10 2nd
with J
LoopyLou 28/Aug/10 2nd

Second for Alison Cairns. Deceptively steep, one little move on poor footholds but otherwise jugs and pleasant.

MD 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Bob, Paul H
Pay Attention 28/Aug/10 Lead
with MD
hazeysunshine 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
Gwilym 'ledge' Jones ?/Jul/10 2nd
Shauna 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
Greg Pittam 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Howel
Rob84 03/May/10 Lead O/S

A fantastic route - steep & sustained climbing on good jams and flakes with bomber gear

with Lou
TM_Horton ?/May/10 2nd
with luca chiffi
Pown 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 07/Apr/10 2nd
brockers ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Ed morris 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Morgans first VS. The move out of the cave was the crux for me, a hand shredding struggle.

Meanmachine Meaney 30/Jan/10 2nd O/S

First VS

cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Bux 24/May/09 2nd
with Ruth Bevan
Bux 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth Bevan
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Garrett
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lee Bonner
Kit Gillibrand 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S

mind the loose jug...

with Roly Chuter
Rollo 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Good pro but steep and scary, esp with loose hold around crux moves. Looser now that Kit has been by!

with Kit
Bob M 26/Aug/07 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/07 2nd
with Beesley
tlmarjot ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
david morse 28/May/07 Lead
with Stu Corns
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/07 AltLd
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
chris j 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with James & Doug
Fat Tim 31/May/06 Lead O/S
tom.e 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Boxy 29/May/06 Lead rpt
Different Steve 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Laramadness 30/Jul/04 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/03 Lead
phardman 25/May/01 Lead O/S
auld al ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
Roget 28/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Aug/98 2nd
with Sam Dew
Hidden 30/Aug/98 Lead O/S
lorens holm ??/1998 2nd O/S
with Clare
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
mikej 16/May/96 2nd
with John Flint, Nick Salmon
Martin Bennett 08/May/95 -
with MT
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 2nd
Hidden 14/May/89 Lead
Nigel Bond 25/Aug/85 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Martin Bennett 18/Jul/85 -
with IW
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with Jo
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Nigel Bond 26/Aug/84 Lead
with Ben Foord
andybirtwistle 26/Apr/84 2nd
with Ernie Greenwood
mark-abz 08/Nov/80 2nd
with ?
Hidden ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Morty
Hidden 06/Aug/76 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set