Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
A superb crack in the wall right of Crithmum which is better now that Crithmum is further away! Climb Crithmum to the base of its upper corner then step up right into the crack. This gives sustained and interesting climbing with one tricky section. A gem! © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 28/May/1987.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 25 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Big cams useful for middle crackline, but not essential. Upper wall sustained but can rest occasionally for good wires. |
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Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Nice one Max! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice one Max! |
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Legs | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing jams and good gear. Took me a few times to work out the crux. Glad to get this. Inspired by the picture in the guide. |
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eldre070 | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dave thought he was on Meridian. Only found one section too much. |
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Exocet | 24 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I too thought I was on Meridian, trying to escape the horror show that is now Crithmum. (August 05) Glad to hear that other people hadn't heard about its fate. Although I used to lead E2, the thin, unprotected moves I soon encountered once the crack ran out were too much for the current wimpy me, and I made moves right and right again and ended up in what turned out to be Meridian. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)