Rockfax Description
A superb crack in the wall right of Crithmum which is better now that Crithmum is further away! Climb Crithmum to the base of its upper corner then step up right into the crack. This gives sustained and interesting climbing with one tricky section. A gem! © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 28.5.87 28/May/1987

pauldrew 06/Oct Lead
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd O/S
gjd 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Tom D
rachelpearce01 28/Sep 2nd O/S
George_Surf 28/Sep Lead O/S

Really good climbing. Leaving the corner it's a long crack climb (watch for the dodgy chockstone) with good rests to below the crux. Good wires protect some thin moves (5c?) to the top

tim whitaker 21/Sep Lead
with Callum Johnson
Hidden 21/Sep 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 28/Aug Lead rpt

Excellent, 2nded before.

with Jack
Lenny 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Agnas
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd O/S
jon22 27/Aug Lead
Tim Sparrow 25/Aug Lead

Crux where it should be ... cheeky rest on the runner, or was it blatant?

with Ian Armstrong
Elizabeth Allen 07/Aug 2nd dog
with Luke
Luke90 07/Aug Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 04/Aug Lead O/S
Neil Adams 31/Jul Lead O/S
andyinglis 31/Jul 2nd


Hidden 13/Jul Lead
Chrissy202 13/Jul 2nd dog
with Luke
eb202 07/Jul 2nd O/S
with Michael
Mike505 07/Jul Lead O/S

Pretty steady climbing until around half way then it gets a little thinner and finally comes the 'sting in the tail' in the form of a wonderful little move. However it's no one move wonder, interest remained till the top.

Hidden 25/Jun 2nd rpt
aiyer 25/Jun 2nd
with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 25/Jun Lead O/S

Steady until one hard move near the top

with Abby, JakeB.
Tophe 23/Jun 2nd
with Nina
ninastirrup 23/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May Lead O/S
pete1993 27/May 2nd O/S

wondered whether this was going to have a sting in the tail

with Jamie
Hidden 17/Apr Lead
JoeCoxson 16/Apr 2nd O/S

Excellent end of the day lead by Jake

with JakeB.
Hidden 16/Apr Lead O/S
PaulTanton 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Francis Butler
Duncan Campbell 14/Apr Lead O/S

Just the two routes before rain stopped play. Big holds most of the way but maybe two crimps between jugs at the top!

deklan 27/Mar Lead
with louis
tyho 13/Mar 2nd O/S
Helen Gibson 13/Mar 2nd
with Graham Hoey
Jack93 13/Mar Lead O/S

Lovely jamming all the way! Found a crux a bit hard though, kept downclimbing and faffing so in the end I had to block the rest with some gear to make myself commit to it.

Tubs 12/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Max
Tom.Priestley 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

a bit confusing on where to go, think i got there in the end tho. The one hard move is quite tricky for the short.

Dangerous Dave 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

One move wonder bit still good

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

really steady jugs and jams to a tough crux. smashing out the trad routes at the moment - pleased to do some jamming too.

Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead β
beni 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
Kris2fa 14/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Adam24B
Adam24B 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Warm up and unfinished business

Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/16 TR
dom94 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
amccann 09/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Dom
Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd
Ben1983 31/May/16 Lead dog
London Luke 29/May/16 2nd O/S
WB 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Tim_C7 29/May/16 Lead dog

Took a big fall at the crux, got it second go.

with Luke Williams
markalmack 29/May/16 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 20/Mar/16 TR
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd
Richard Kendrick 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Nick Loc
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead
benkelsey 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

At high tide while waiting (in vain) to get to Zeppelin.

with Shaun Humphreys
aiyer 08/Aug/15 2nd

Didnt feel too hard. Be interested to lead this sometime soon. With Dave and Rich

anguskille 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Grant
Dan724 22/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dan Ely
BTphonehome 21/Jun/15 2nd

Tony: "I'm fairly battered, fancy this VS to finish the day on?" And so we found out the hard way that things have changed a bit since the 1985 guidebook! Good route with a fairly tough crux saved for the top.

with Tony
tmawer 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Happily climbing this thinking it's VS (my guide is from 1985) until it got rather tougher near the top......glad it's not VS!

with Bram
mynyddresident 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

cruxy finale, made a meal of it.

with KP
james1978 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
VPJB 06/Jun/15 -
Cheese Monkey 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lovely climb that just builds the whole way! Great

with Ric E
gingerbex 05/Jun/15 2nd

slipped low down due to freezing hands! lovely climbing late on Fri pm

alastairbegley 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lovely route, sustained climbing up to an interesting crux which felt top end 5b/bottom end 5c. Overall felt soft for E2.

Kev Little ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 31/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 31/May/15 2nd
with Ian
hotfeet 26/May/15 Lead dog

The crux move beat me - escaped off to the right.

Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Andy
Wood for Trees 23/May/15 Lead O/S

long move on crux though Jo seemed to climb it without

with Jo Stadden
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Don't understand how this gets E2 unless a 5c move at the crux? It's not that pumpy.

with Princess Diana
Graeme Hammond 08/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Very enjoyable, seemed soft for E2

with Chris Hindley
gingernick ??/2015 Lead O/S

As previous. Sent up what we thought was the vs. well spent at the top. Great climb

with Darrell
Andrew Sloan 29/Sep/14 2nd dog

Got pumped trying to work out the crux, one short rest.

Martin Haworth 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Worth 3 stars. One hard section near the top.

with Andy
Cardi 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Irish, Sarah Joyce
irish paul 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Steven Carter 06/Aug/14 2nd
charles-green ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice long climb, with lots of cool jamming. Spicy crux, was pumped topping out.

Adam24B ?/Aug/14 Lead dog
Kris2fa ?/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Dizz 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with rob p
brices 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great little route

with Mike
elCapitano 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Thought I was on the VS to the right and wondered why I was finding it 'ard. Well happy when I found out it was E2.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/14 2nd dog
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/14 Lead dnf
guy757 14/Jul/14 -
Helen Gibson 19/Jun/14 2nd

couple of moves at top

with dave
Stefan_Morris 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Coops_13 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Patrick Hill 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy, Ross
Hidden 23/May/14 2nd
Hidden 23/May/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 02/May/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 02/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Hidden 25/Apr/14 2nd
andy_pemberton 10/Apr/14 Lead
with Richard Woods
Andrew1 08/Apr/14 2nd
with Hulda
Hulda 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andi
EeFu 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
Dizz 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Tom, Ian l
Tubs 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Ian L, Liz F
cem 06/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Clean this time round.

cooperman 20/Sep/13 2nd

great top crack

with Graham Iles
pie_eater_pete 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Jake Young 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Keendan 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S


with Remus
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Vassen
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd β
skippington 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
msoldn 19/May/13 2nd O/S

lovely hand jamming in lower half with jugs for brief rests, and sudden stopper sequence at top that almost spat me off. felt more like 5c to me.

with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)
burto 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
nigel pearson 05/May/13 Lead O/S


with Robin
Haydn Jones 01/May/13 2nd O/S
with pep
Alan100 20/Oct/12 Lead

Lovely jamming with an interesting (and well protected) crux on the face. Felt pretty pumped after the crux though.

al99 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Jam Jam Jam Jam, Crimp, top out!

martinazando 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed morris 19/Aug/12 Lead β
with Dickon
James Marshall 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Shepherd
Hidden 18/Jul/12 2nd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 05/Jul/12 2nd
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 04/Jul/12 Lead
pembrokeshirecaver 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S

all fairly simple apart from stopper move near the top

with Adam
HarryB 11/Jun/12 TR O/S

roughly this route after freeing stuck ab rope

Ramon Marin 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
just one more 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lovely crack and face climbing,very safe

with Svenn G
david morse 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 02/Sep/11 2nd β
Fred_Richard 28/Aug/11 2nd
with bill turner
Ian Jones 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Superb jam crack. ** surely?

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
steve.warrington 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 28/Jul/11 2nd
mountain.martin 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S
pipof747 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with henry castle
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Alex Mason 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

A gem. Great interesting HVS climbing to a technical crux. A beauty.

tim20 09/Jun/11 2nd
with pabs
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JBO 30/May/11 2nd O/S
Billg 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Jessie Rushbrooke 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Emma A
Dan Lane 01/Sep/10 2nd dog

alright route, but i just couldn't work out the crux at all.

ksjs 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

didnt find this that straightforward, not so happy with the gear even though its fine. some nice moves on great rock

with phil
cem 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Johan Piper, Chris Parson
drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
catblack 14/Aug/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Much better than it looks.

Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
clipskipper 21/May/10 2nd O/S
with Davey Boy
spacey 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Paul Evans 17/May/10 Lead
with spacey
mattyork2 07/Apr/10 2nd
cymjt ??/2010 -
drcorbasisgod 03/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead
feilx 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/09 Lead

Brilliant crack climb made much better since Crithmum fell down.

LC ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with hadyn
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 01/Sep/05 -
with Paul Morgan
Marq 30/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
drysori ??/2005 Lead dnf

By mistake

Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with KM
ellis ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Chris Ranner
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 54
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set