UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

36m.

Rockfax Description
A good route which takes a line up the cracked wall starting as for Crithmum. Move up a crack, trend rightwards out of Crithmum, to a square-cut niche in the centre of the wall. Follow the twin cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 23/Dec/1968.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , Wales Trip - 2022 , UWTSD Rock , Pembs Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris wyatt 1 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nice with the bottom crozzly start of sunsmoke. maybe hvs.
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βeta: Nice with the bottom crozzly start of sunsmoke. maybe hvs.
Derek Furze 17 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed belaying with my feet in a rock pool watching the little fish explore their domain
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βeta: Enjoyed belaying with my feet in a rock pool watching the little fish explore their domain
Dizz 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big scary block at the top. Care required!
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βeta: Big scary block at the top. Care required!
Emlyn Price 27 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: loose flake/ jug removed on crux, potentially making route harder for the shorter
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βeta: loose flake/ jug removed on crux, potentially making route harder for the shorter
Pixie-Andy 8 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose hold avoid pulling or putting sling on and preferably avoid standing on it.
βeta?
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βeta: Large loose hold avoid pulling or putting sling on and preferably avoid standing on it.
chris wyatt 2 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you really traverse into it or you will end up on an E2
βeta?
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βeta: Make sure you really traverse into it or you will end up on an E2

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 96
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blue Sky

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)

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