40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney.
1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance.
2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche.
3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © Rockfax

FA. R.Crewe 25.3.78 25/Mar/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
Lizard Ollie 17/Sep Lead O/S

As per the rest of the comments I thought P1 was a little steep for S. The rest of the route was delightful though. More threads than a granny's knitting club...

JC95Evans 17/Sep 2nd O/S
jvarmstrong 28/Aug AltLd
with Kieran Conneely, Chris
Hidden 28/Aug AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 28/Aug AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. Hard to grade pitch 1 but whatever it is it's not severe! Possibly HS 4b though felt more like VS. Great fun, though hard not to think about the stability of the mud-conglomerate behind you. The CC guide says pitch 3 takes the crack right of The Cracks, I tried this but it was 4c to the foot of the wide crack and looked hard and bold above, so I traversed back to The Cracks (the finish described in Rockfax)

with Carmen
Chris Manasseh 28/Aug AltLd
with John Armstrong, Kieran Conneelly
edwards_nicholas 27/Aug AltLd

Great adventure! I led pitches 1 and 2. It was dark in the cave so climbing a little blind added to the difficulty. Finished in the dark.

with Glen Stidever
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead P1&2

aiyer 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Wild and fun. Lead P1 and P3!

with JakeB.
TGHB 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Fun climb, led p3. Interesting belay for p2

Hidden 25/Aug AltLd O/S
DanChad 09/Aug AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

Chris Murray 09/Aug AltLd

Led P2. 4b/3c/4a

Hidden 13/Jul AltLd
Chrissy202 13/Jul AltLd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd O/S
C@rwyn 25/May AltLd O/S
with Flo
Hidden 24/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr Lead
Hidden 15/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr Lead O/S
samkat 15/Apr AltLd
with Fran
tom jefferies 24/Mar AltLd
bpw666 17/Sep/16 Lead

Lead the middle pitch. Not sure what all the comments on here about it being VS are about. Suspect they are from people who face climbed the chimney and didn't notice the fact that you can get a no hands rest at any point if you use the massive ledges on the back wall.

Montecore 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing first 2 pitches. Loved it!

with Ben Whittaker
Hidden 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
JessWilliams 07/Sep/16 AltLd
Nigel Coe 04/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Top pitch only. More than Severe.

with Pete Kelly
Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd
Mr. K 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Amazing route. I lead the first pitch which felt like solid VS to me! I dropped down to the other side to belay off a large thread so I could see the second pitch. Bryn lead the second and third pitches but belaying where I was he could have easily run them together without any issues with rope drag. A quality adventure!

with Bryn Wood
Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
FelixL 29/Aug/16 Lead dnf

A bit confused by Rockfax, what we saw was a weird wide crack and not a chimney for P1. Pulled on the ledge to start the crack. Low psyche before the climb, went down to enjoy an easy severe, this first pitch was "how am I going to protect this?". Didn't fancy the solo on wet rock, reverse the first few moves and bailed out.

with Megan
Hidden 26/Aug/16 AltLd
jennyjen 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

VS* in other guides but I think it's still worthy of 3*. Start right at the back of the cave for some great 3D climbing Lead the first pitch and it was great!! A little sandy at the top and not for the faint hearted. Make sure you take all the slings you own and just enjoy Dropped down for the belay as felt safer than on the Boulder.

with James
Stuart William 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3 Awesome, such a cool route that is well worth seeking out. Abbed in to a fairly high sea and dodged the waves to get into the cave. The cave itself is eerily beautiful and then emerging into the sun and a calm sea made it feel like a whole different crag by the time we were on P3.

with Mike
mikedevcole 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant fun. P2.

jimhall 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Paddy
gingernick 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Utterly brilliant. It only gives 1 star in the new guide.?? Very worthy of three stars for pure entertainment and atmospheric climbing. Vs.

wi11 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ruth B
charlietorrance 06/Jul/16 2nd O/S

crazy 3d unique!! fun

John Bunney 06/Jul/16 Lead

Awesome climb, certainly not Severe, maybe highish H.Severe? 3 totally contrasting pitches. Nothing difficult about any of it, take lots of threads and big gear. Giggled our way up every pitch :)

with Charlie
Hidden 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Really hated this, proper sand bag at severe, got spooked trying to lead the first pitch which is weird 360 degree climbing with not much pro if you have small nuts. Had one of those 'why am I here moments' looking around the dank cave. Traverse after the first pitch and last pitch were fine. Awesome venue, very adventurous and I can imagine great fun if you're not scared...

DaveThexton 30/May/16 Lead O/S
hutchay 28/May/16 Lead
Alex Whitmore 28/May/16 2nd O/S
Loubear 30/Apr/16 2nd
with Jason
Meinertzhagen 27/Apr/16 2nd
with Niall
dobby 200 14/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Conor1 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant mini-adventure at sustained 4a. Steep dark bridging then steep juggy traverse onto the front face then jugs away to finish. The Cracks looks fantastic, too.

with Jim
Hidden ??/2016 -
gjd 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

led p1,p3

with Sam Burns
rajeshwarbisht 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Stanners 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant little adventure. The Jug rail didn't disappoint!

with Andy G
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Georgie25 25/Jul/15 AltLd
Keith Swainson 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with James Turner, Georgie
Katie Proctor 22/Jul/15 AltLd dog

Lead pitch 1 and 3.

Gainz 22/Jul/15 AltLd

P1 - KP - Easily the hardest pitch P2 - Me - Those rails though. P3 - KP - Pleasant. The belay spot has great sea views.

Dervey 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Liam
andy_pemberton 26/May/15 Lead

Much easier this time as moved round earlier to a lower stance at the end of the first pitch -- thus avoiding sand-boulder horror.

with Dave Marshall
Anna Maykova 25/May/15 AltLd

Lead P 1 and 3. Great fun!

with Ian
bobstones 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Where to begin on this one......... The first pitch is nowhere near severe as most other people have said. It's awkward 3D climbing, quite bold and hard to decipher where to go. Second starts with a down climb then on to the easy traverse finished with a tricky step around the corner and small traverse into the niche. Third start with a bold(ish) step right then a romp to the top. Fantastic route, loads of fun and great positions but be prepared!!

chancer 24/May/15 AltLd O/S

A classic adventure that includes all types.

with Jason Wood
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd O/S
SEDaniels 01/May/15 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Ian1987 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
markalmack 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Only did first 2 pitches as there were choppers holding up the show on the cracks.

with ian
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
jbb 28/Sep/14 2nd
manxclare 24/Sep/14 2nd
with jon22
jon22 24/Sep/14 Lead
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led traverse second pitch. Awesome holds and big threads! Really cool route but probably HS for the first pitch.

Hidden 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

A nice mini expedition. Didn't quite get the clue on what gear it might require, but I made do.

clairemathews 30/Aug/14 AltLd

3rd pitch

clairemathews 30/Aug/14 AltLd
James_L88 11/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant effort by Kat to lead the difficult P1 (much harder than severe!). I led the enjoyable jug traverse of P2. Kat finished by leading P3.

with Kat Day
Steven Carter 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
cs8sz 27/Jul/14 -

This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!

NickyC 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Zain Karim
adam clarke 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!

with Adam Lynch
erica 11/Jul/14 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
tgeh 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with tgeh
CameronH 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Accidentally led first half of Karma Waters instead of P1! ALso led P3

with Phil Glass
Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd RP
Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
HazelMacLean 13/Jun/14 AltLd β

Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.

Lizzie B 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
chappers909 05/Jun/14 2nd
Dan Geh 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Paddy, Will
hannahmmt 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Stefan
Stefan_Morris 27/May/14 AltLd
with Hannah Thompson
007 25/May/14 -

S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.

andy_pemberton 10/Apr/14 Lead

P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!

with Richard Woods
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
gurumed 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.

with John
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Solo
Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/13 -
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 29/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Made a video but very slow climbing

with Scott, Liam
LiamAD 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.

Elsier 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
NB Pixel 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered

with David Barlow
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
nigel pearson 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line

with Yoko
adie84 ??/2013 -
Rowan Mitchell 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Andre Steele
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd
Binder 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!

with Liz F
Dizz 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)

with george
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.

with Brian Moseley
Andy152 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!

with Lee Bower
Katherine Ross 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.

zcsharp 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.

HarryB 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Guy Chater 29/May/12 Lead
chrisallan 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
mes32 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!

with Chris
Mike Hood 22/May/12 Lead
benjih2o 14/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure.

with peter baily
ritchierich 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd
pryan300 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with T-Bone
melonmike 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.

with liam brown
demarcation86 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Rhydian Evans 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Lenny 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with John
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 Lead
JHiley 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.

with Fran
centurion05 ??/2012 -
Polly4 ??/2012 -
RosiePalmer 13/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Nexonen 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Jake
pembrokeshirecaver 21/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
drysori 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.

Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
will9911 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
kleinej 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.

with Zara
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd
brian watson 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 29/Aug/11 AltLd

I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.

with Rich
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
Richard Alderton 29/Aug/11 AltLd

Led P2. Jugfest.

with Ellie
Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd
CRiddiford 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

p1,2,3

Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
scorpia97 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..

Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead
ablackett 26/Jul/11 AltLd
with Jonny
jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...

with Andy B
Adam Booth 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.

edmitchell 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
pipof747 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd
Tom Fuller 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Stefan_Morris 22/Jun/11 Lead
TM_Horton 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!

with will
Will Horton 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")

with Tom Horton
Ewan Russell 01/May/11 Lead O/S

finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade

with Helen Powley
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
prwalker 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Led P2. Great route - abseil into cave first, then climb out.

with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with Westy
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rick Dunning ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.

Kirill 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
KeithW 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.

with Paul Lucas
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
lucasp 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.

with keith lmc
JWB 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.

jon_gill1 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!

Graeme Hammond 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.

with Rob
hazeysunshine 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Ketu 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 28/Aug/10 AltLd
with MD
MD 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Bob, Paul H
Leelogs 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with SCC
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd
Andrew Barker 13/Aug/10 Solo O/S

A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.

muttley_109 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with B. Hughes
irish paul 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
owiowz 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
matt.woodfield 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Rose Williams 09/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

with Ollie Dorrell
cliffy 30/May/10 AltLd rpt
Ed morris 13/May/10 Lead rpt

pissed off the odd seagull

Meanmachine Meaney 13/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
barni 21/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

middle

Sophie Nunn 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Nexonen 15/Apr/10 AltLd
with Huw
cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Nexonen 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3

with Ceri
Ceridwen 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! What an amazing route!!

with Andy
Hidden 26/Jul/09 2nd
Stone Muppet 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.

with mu
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Trisha Murphy 08/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
d_meacher 08/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
cliffy 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
Bob M 26/Aug/07 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Chris Todd
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with rampant
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Howard J 26/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with John Turner
LC ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
five ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with JR
Hidden ??/1980 -
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set