35m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney.
1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance.
2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche.
3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © Rockfax

FA. R.Crewe 25/Mar/1978

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Montecore 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Surely a VS (per Climbers Club guide) not a Severe...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely a VS (per Climbers Club guide) not a Severe...
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
eskanks 20 Aug 2nd
Montecore 18 Aug AltLd O/S Led P2. Route felt a lot harder this time! VS for sure
with Alex Nicholson
Led P2. Route felt a lot harder this time! VS for sure
with Alex Nicholson
gtaylor997 13 Aug Lead O/S Amazingly good fun from start to finish. Never experienced jugs quite like the second pitch
with Holly Walker
Amazingly good fun from start to finish. Never experienced jugs quite like the second pitch
with Holly Walker
Steve5543 12 Aug Lead O/S
pete87abs 2 Aug Lead O/S
with rclarke
with rclarke
ChrisBrooke 25 Jul AltLd Best severe in the country? Great climbing on each pitch, stupendous positions and ‘atmosphere’.
with Duncan Bell
Best severe in the country? Great climbing on each pitch, stupendous positions and ‘atmosphere’.
with Duncan Bell
riff156 25 Jul AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2
Lead pitch 2
Duncan Bell 25 Jul AltLd O/S
with Chris Brooke
with Chris Brooke
r8ck_chick 25 Jul AltLd
with riff156
with riff156
suds_01 26 Jun Lead O/S
with Rachel
with Rachel
Hidden 27 May 2nd O/S
judith neaves 19 May 2nd
Shaw Brown 19 May Lead
Rp20 10 May AltLd O/S Good little adventure across Mother Carey’s equator.
with Marianne Heikkala
Good little adventure across Mother Carey’s equator.
with Marianne Heikkala
Harry Padley 5 May AltLd O/S
timreynolds 4 May AltLd O/S P1 & 3, Wow!
P1 & 3, Wow!
Greenerz 4 May AltLd O/S Lead p2, some spicy 3d climbing for a S
Lead p2, some spicy 3d climbing for a S
ice bank mice elf 21 Apr AltLd
ladempsey 21 Apr AltLd
manish9697 11 Mar 2nd
Dougal420uk 15 Jan 2nd O/S Night climb!
Night climb!
evhall 22 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S p2 - adventurous route - p1 seems to be rocks held together by clay...
with Sarju
p2 - adventurous route - p1 seems to be rocks held together by clay...
with Sarju
w-watson 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
J.E.Spencer 28 Sep, 2018 2nd
Pete_Frost 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2 - fantastic traverse with lots of threads (I used a single nut on the way up to the belay). There's even a break for your feet the whole way round. P1 was greasy and the funky conglomerate rock at the top felt decidedly temporary. P3 was a romp. This is a brilliant route and should be on everyone's wishlist, even if they climb E7.
Led P2 - fantastic traverse with lots of threads (I used a single nut on the way up to the belay). There's even a break for your feet the whole way round. P1 was greasy and the funky conglomerate rock at the top felt decidedly temporary. P3 was a romp. This is a brilliant route and should be on everyone's wishlist, even if they climb E7.
ollyroberts 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitch 2.
with Lee Paskin
Pitch 2.
with Lee Paskin
roym 24 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Stuart Walker 24 Aug, 2018 AltLd Literally one of the best pitches i’ve ever done. Hard for severe!
Literally one of the best pitches i’ve ever done. Hard for severe!
Tom Fullen 24 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Good fun!
with roym
Good fun!
with roym
Caitgreen ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Pati
with Pati
Hannah Moulton 20 Jul, 2018 -
Hannah Moulton 20 Jul, 2018 -
meanderthal 20 Jul, 2018 -
danieleaston 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S VS in my book and I'm having it. Wet bridgy start was quite unpleasant. Holds held in with sand. P2 was good though. Led 1&3. Probably not 3*, not Pembroke top 50.
VS in my book and I'm having it. Wet bridgy start was quite unpleasant. Holds held in with sand. P2 was good though. Led 1&3. Probably not 3*, not Pembroke top 50.
Steve Bartle 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S If you're happy leading adventurous VS/HVS routes then go for it, but don't rock up expecting a classic Severe. The first pitch looks very steep and intimidating, but is ultimately well-protected and manageable. It's always gonna be damp at best in there though
If you're happy leading adventurous VS/HVS routes then go for it, but don't rock up expecting a classic Severe. The first pitch looks very steep and intimidating, but is ultimately well-protected and manageable. It's always gonna be damp at best in there though
Hidden 28 May, 2018 AltLd
JdotP 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S I don't think this is severe, VS is more like it with some skill required in rope management and unconventional climbing methods :-)
with Crazy Dave
I don't think this is severe, VS is more like it with some skill required in rope management and unconventional climbing methods :-)
with Crazy Dave
COH678 7 May, 2018 2nd
ClimbingAlex 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Agree that this is not severe. More like high end VS on gopping holds inside the cave for p1. Rest of the route is lovely though...
Agree that this is not severe. More like high end VS on gopping holds inside the cave for p1. Rest of the route is lovely though...
Matt Magecha 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd
Lizard Ollie 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S As per the rest of the comments I thought P1 was a little steep for S. The rest of the route was delightful though. More threads than a granny's knitting club...
As per the rest of the comments I thought P1 was a little steep for S. The rest of the route was delightful though. More threads than a granny's knitting club...
JC95Evans 17 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
jvarmstrong 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Kieran Conneely, Chris
with Kieran Conneely, Chris
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1 and 3. Hard to grade pitch 1 but whatever it is it's not severe! Possibly HS 4b though felt more like VS. Great fun, though hard not to think about the stability of the mud-conglomerate behind you. The CC guide says pitch 3 takes the crack right of The Cracks, I tried this but it was 4c to the foot of the wide crack and looked hard and bold above, so I traversed back to The Cracks (the finish described in Rockfax)
with Lemming
I led pitches 1 and 3. Hard to grade pitch 1 but whatever it is it's not severe! Possibly HS 4b though felt more like VS. Great fun, though hard not to think about the stability of the mud-conglomerate behind you. The CC guide says pitch 3 takes the crack right of The Cracks, I tried this but it was 4c to the foot of the wide crack and looked hard and bold above, so I traversed back to The Cracks (the finish described in Rockfax)
with Lemming
Chris Manasseh 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with John Armstrong, Kieran Conneelly
with John Armstrong, Kieran Conneelly
edwards_nicholas 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Great adventure! I led pitches 1 and 2. It was dark in the cave so climbing a little blind added to the difficulty. Finished in the dark.
with Glen Stidever
Great adventure! I led pitches 1 and 2. It was dark in the cave so climbing a little blind added to the difficulty. Finished in the dark.
with Glen Stidever
NinaR 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
with Trevor Wilson
Wendy Watthews 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P1&2
with TGHB
Lead P1&2
with TGHB
aiyer 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Wild and fun. Lead P1 and P3!
with JakeB.
Wild and fun. Lead P1 and P3!
with JakeB.
TGHB 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Fun climb, led p3. Interesting belay for p2
Fun climb, led p3. Interesting belay for p2
Hidden 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
DMC 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3.
Led pitches 1 and 3.
Chris Murray 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd Led P2. 4b/3c/4a
with DMC
Led P2. 4b/3c/4a
with DMC
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Chrissy202 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Luke
with Luke
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
C@rwyn 25 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2017 Lead
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd
tom jefferies 24 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with Cardi
with Cardi
bpw666 17 Sep, 2016 Lead Lead the middle pitch. Not sure what all the comments on here about it being VS are about. Suspect they are from people who face climbed the chimney and didn't notice the fact that you can get a no hands rest at any point if you use the massive ledges on the back wall.
Lead the middle pitch. Not sure what all the comments on here about it being VS are about. Suspect they are from people who face climbed the chimney and didn't notice the fact that you can get a no hands rest at any point if you use the massive ledges on the back wall.
Montecore 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing first 2 pitches. Loved it!
with Ben Whittaker
Amazing first 2 pitches. Loved it!
with Ben Whittaker
Hidden 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
JessWilliams 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Nigel Coe 4 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Top pitch only. More than Severe.
with Pete Kelly
Top pitch only. More than Severe.
with Pete Kelly
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Mr. K 29 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt Amazing route. I lead the first pitch which felt like solid VS to me! I dropped down to the other side to belay off a large thread so I could see the second pitch. Bryn lead the second and third pitches but belaying where I was he could have easily run them together without any issues with rope drag. A quality adventure!
with Bryn Wood
Amazing route. I lead the first pitch which felt like solid VS to me! I dropped down to the other side to belay off a large thread so I could see the second pitch. Bryn lead the second and third pitches but belaying where I was he could have easily run them together without any issues with rope drag. A quality adventure!
with Bryn Wood
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
megdc 29 Aug, 2016 -
with FelixL
with FelixL
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd
jennyjen 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S VS* in other guides but I think it's still worthy of 3*. Start right at the back of the cave for some great 3D climbing Lead the first pitch and it was great!! A little sandy at the top and not for the faint hearted. Make sure you take all the slings you own and just enjoy Dropped down for the belay as felt safer than on the Boulder.
with Kaya
VS* in other guides but I think it's still worthy of 3*. Start right at the back of the cave for some great 3D climbing Lead the first pitch and it was great!! A little sandy at the top and not for the faint hearted. Make sure you take all the slings you own and just enjoy Dropped down for the belay as felt safer than on the Boulder.
with Kaya
Stuart William 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1&3 Awesome, such a cool route that is well worth seeking out. Abbed in to a fairly high sea and dodged the waves to get into the cave. The cave itself is eerily beautiful and then emerging into the sun and a calm sea made it feel like a whole different crag by the time we were on P3.
Led P1&3 Awesome, such a cool route that is well worth seeking out. Abbed in to a fairly high sea and dodged the waves to get into the cave. The cave itself is eerily beautiful and then emerging into the sun and a calm sea made it feel like a whole different crag by the time we were on P3.
mikedevcole 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant fun. P2.
Brilliant fun. P2.
jimhall 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with pclark
with pclark
gingernick 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd Utterly brilliant. It only gives 1 star in the new guide.?? Very worthy of three stars for pure entertainment and atmospheric climbing. Vs.
with 19Dan82
Utterly brilliant. It only gives 1 star in the new guide.?? Very worthy of three stars for pure entertainment and atmospheric climbing. Vs.
with 19Dan82
wi11 12 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ruth B
with Ruth B
charlietorrance 6 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S crazy 3d unique!! fun
crazy 3d unique!! fun
John Bunney 6 Jul, 2016 Lead Awesome climb, certainly not Severe, maybe highish H.Severe? 3 totally contrasting pitches. Nothing difficult about any of it, take lots of threads and big gear. Giggled our way up every pitch :)
Awesome climb, certainly not Severe, maybe highish H.Severe? 3 totally contrasting pitches. Nothing difficult about any of it, take lots of threads and big gear. Giggled our way up every pitch :)
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S Really hated this, proper sand bag at severe, got spooked trying to lead the first pitch which is weird 360 degree climbing with not much pro if you have small nuts. Had one of those 'why am I here moments' looking around the dank cave. Traverse after the first pitch and last pitch were fine. Awesome venue, very adventurous and I can imagine great fun if you're not scared...
Really hated this, proper sand bag at severe, got spooked trying to lead the first pitch which is weird 360 degree climbing with not much pro if you have small nuts. Had one of those 'why am I here moments' looking around the dank cave. Traverse after the first pitch and last pitch were fine. Awesome venue, very adventurous and I can imagine great fun if you're not scared...
DaveThexton 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
hutchay 28 May, 2016 Lead
Alex Whitmore 28 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with hutchay
with hutchay
Loubear 30 Apr, 2016 2nd
Meinertzhagen 27 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Niall
with Niall
dobby 200 14 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Tom H
with Tom H
Conor1 20 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant mini-adventure at sustained 4a. Steep dark bridging then steep juggy traverse onto the front face then jugs away to finish. The Cracks looks fantastic, too.
with Jim
Brilliant mini-adventure at sustained 4a. Steep dark bridging then steep juggy traverse onto the front face then jugs away to finish. The Cracks looks fantastic, too.
with Jim
Hidden ??, 2016 -
gjd 27 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S led p1,p3
with Sam Burns
led p1,p3
with Sam Burns
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 2nd
rajeshwarbisht 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Stanners 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant little adventure. The Jug rail didn't disappoint!
Brilliant little adventure. The Jug rail didn't disappoint!
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Georgie25 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Keith Swainson 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with James Turner, Georgie
with James Turner, Georgie
Katie Proctor 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd dog Lead pitch 1 and 3.
with Gainz
Lead pitch 1 and 3.
with Gainz
Gainz 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd P1 - KP - Easily the hardest pitch P2 - Me - Those rails though. P3 - KP - Pleasant. The belay spot has great sea views.
P1 - KP - Easily the hardest pitch P2 - Me - Those rails though. P3 - KP - Pleasant. The belay spot has great sea views.
Dervey 8 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Liam
with Liam
andy_pemberton 26 May, 2015 Lead Much easier this time as moved round earlier to a lower stance at the end of the first pitch -- thus avoiding sand-boulder horror.
with Dave Marshall
Much easier this time as moved round earlier to a lower stance at the end of the first pitch -- thus avoiding sand-boulder horror.
with Dave Marshall
Anna Maykova 25 May, 2015 AltLd Lead P 1 and 3. Great fun!
with Ian MK
Lead P 1 and 3. Great fun!
with Ian MK
bobstones 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S Where to begin on this one......... The first pitch is nowhere near severe as most other people have said. It's awkward 3D climbing, quite bold and hard to decipher where to go. Second starts with a down climb then on to the easy traverse finished with a tricky step around the corner and small traverse into the niche. Third start with a bold(ish) step right then a romp to the top. Fantastic route, loads of fun and great positions but be prepared!!
Where to begin on this one......... The first pitch is nowhere near severe as most other people have said. It's awkward 3D climbing, quite bold and hard to decipher where to go. Second starts with a down climb then on to the easy traverse finished with a tricky step around the corner and small traverse into the niche. Third start with a bold(ish) step right then a romp to the top. Fantastic route, loads of fun and great positions but be prepared!!
chancer 24 May, 2015 AltLd O/S A classic adventure that includes all types.
with Jason Wood
A classic adventure that includes all types.
with Jason Wood
Hidden 1 May, 2015 2nd O/S
SEDaniels 1 May, 2015 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
Ian1987 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
markalmack 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Only did first 2 pitches as there were choppers holding up the show on the cracks.
with Ian1987
Only did first 2 pitches as there were choppers holding up the show on the cracks.
with Ian1987
nuts and bolts 29 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2014 Lead
jbb 28 Sep, 2014 2nd
manxclare 24 Sep, 2014 2nd
John sealey 24 Sep, 2014 Lead
spidermonkey09 10 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led traverse second pitch. Awesome holds and big threads! Really cool route but probably HS for the first pitch.
Led traverse second pitch. Awesome holds and big threads! Really cool route but probably HS for the first pitch.
Hidden 10 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S A nice mini expedition. Didn't quite get the clue on what gear it might require, but I made do.
A nice mini expedition. Didn't quite get the clue on what gear it might require, but I made do.
clairemathews 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd 3rd pitch
3rd pitch
clairemathews 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd
James_L88 11 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant effort by Kat to lead the difficult P1 (much harder than severe!). I led the enjoyable jug traverse of P2. Kat finished by leading P3.
with KatDay
Brilliant effort by Kat to lead the difficult P1 (much harder than severe!). I led the enjoyable jug traverse of P2. Kat finished by leading P3.
with KatDay
Steven Carter 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
cs8sz 27 Jul, 2014 - This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!
This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!
NickyC 21 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Zain Karim
with Zain Karim
adam clarke 21 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!
with Adam Lynch
Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!
with Adam Lynch
erica 11 Jul, 2014 2nd
John Brayshaw 11 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with erica
with erica
tgeh 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with imogene
with imogene
ifletcher 22 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with tgeh
with tgeh
CameronH 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Did first pitch of Karma Waters by accident as didn’t go deep enough into the cave. Thought it looked a bit steep for Severe! Got a good cam then came back down to the ground, then committed. Managed to fiddle in one more bit of gear below half height before heading upwards, knowing I was too pumped to place more gear. Terrifying myself and Phil, I battled up, reaching the top incredibly relieved and incredibly scared. The next two pitches were very pleasant.
with Phil Glass
Did first pitch of Karma Waters by accident as didn’t go deep enough into the cave. Thought it looked a bit steep for Severe! Got a good cam then came back down to the ground, then committed. Managed to fiddle in one more bit of gear below half height before heading upwards, knowing I was too pumped to place more gear. Terrifying myself and Phil, I battled up, reaching the top incredibly relieved and incredibly scared. The next two pitches were very pleasant.
with Phil Glass
Hidden 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd RP
Hidden 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
HazelMacLean 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd β Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.
Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.
Lizzie B 11 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
chappers909 5 Jun, 2014 2nd
Dan Geh 4 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
hannahmmt 27 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Stefan_Morris 27 May, 2014 AltLd
with Hannah Thompson
with Hannah Thompson
007 25 May, 2014 - S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.
S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.
andy_pemberton 10 Apr, 2014 Lead P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!
with Richard Woods
P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!
with Richard Woods
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
gurumed 30 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.
with John
Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.
with John
Hidden 23 Sep, 2013 Solo
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 -
Rob84 21 Aug, 2013 2nd rpt
with Rob Adie
with Rob Adie
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 29 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Made a video but very slow climbing
Made a video but very slow climbing
LiamAD 29 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Dr Toph 26 Jun, 2013 Solo O/S Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.
Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.
Elsier 17 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with AdrianC
with AdrianC
NB Pixel 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered
with David Barlow
Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered
with David Barlow
Hidden 5 Jun, 2013 -
nigel pearson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line
with Yoko
Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line
with Yoko
adie84 ??, 2013 -
Rowan Mitchell 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Andre Steele
with Andre Steele
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 2nd
Binder 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!
with Dizz
I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!
with Dizz
Dizz 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)
with Binder
Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)
with Binder
BenedictIEP 25 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.
with Brian Moseley
Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.
with Brian Moseley
Andy152 25 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!
with Lee Bower
It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!
with Lee Bower
Katherine Ross 11 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.
P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.
zcsharp 11 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.
P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.
HarryB 11 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Guy Chater 29 May, 2012 Lead
chrisallan 28 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
mes32 28 May, 2012 AltLd O/S 1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!
with Chris
1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!
with Chris
Mike Hood 22 May, 2012 Lead
benjih2o 14 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Great adventure.
with peter baily
Great adventure.
with peter baily
ritchierich 13 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with sera
with sera
Hidden 13 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd
pryan300 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd
with T-Bone
with T-Bone
melonmike 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.
with liam brown
Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.
with liam brown
demarcation86 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rhydian Evans 2 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Lenny 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with John
with John
Jimboandrews. 12 Mar, 2012 Lead
JHiley 11 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.
Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.
centurion05 ??, 2012 -
Polly4 ??, 2012 -
RosiePalmer 13 Dec, 2011 2nd O/S
Nexonen 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Jake
with Jake
pembrokeshirecaver 21 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure 15 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 10 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.
with jiles
Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.
with jiles
jiles 10 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
will9911 30 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with ecw26
with ecw26
kleinej 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.
with Zara
I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.
with Zara
scott titt 29 Aug, 2011 2nd
brian watson 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.
I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.
Mr Sparkle 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
with Liam Byrne
Richard Alderton 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd Led P2. Jugfest.
Led P2. Jugfest.
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 2nd
CRiddiford 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S p1,2,3
p1,2,3
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 2nd dnf
Ross Davidson 13 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Climbed in trainers. nice little adventure
Climbed in trainers. nice little adventure
scorpia97 13 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..
Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 Lead
ablackett 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd
jonny taylor 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...
Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...
Adam Booth 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.
Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.
edmitchell 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
pipof747 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Tom Fuller 22 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Stefan_Morris 22 Jun, 2011 Lead
TM_Horton 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!
with will
simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!
with will
Will Horton 11 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")
with Tom Horton
Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")
with Tom Horton
Ewan Russell 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade
with Helen Powley
finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade
with Helen Powley
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt
prwalker 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd Led P2. Great route - abseil into cave first, then climb out.
with Ali Hutton
Led P2. Great route - abseil into cave first, then climb out.
with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rick Dunning ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 1 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.
Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.
Kirill 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
KeithW 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.
with Paul Lucas
Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.
with Paul Lucas
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
lucasp 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.
with keith lmc
I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.
with keith lmc
JWB 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.
Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.
jon_gill1 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!
with JWB
JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!
with JWB
Graeme Hammond 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.
with Ketu
excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.
with Ketu
hazeysunshine 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Ketu 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with MD
with MD
MD 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1
with Bob, Pay Attention
Led P1
with Bob, Pay Attention
Leelogs 14 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3
with SCC
Led pitches 1 and 3
with SCC
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Andrew Barker 13 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.
A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.
muttley_109 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Ollie B 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with B. Hughes
with B. Hughes
irish paul 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
with Sarah Joyce
owiowz 28 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
matt.woodfield 16 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Rose Williams 9 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with JayK
with JayK
Hidden 9 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 30 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3.
with Ollie Dorrell
Led pitches 1 and 3.
with Ollie Dorrell
cliffy 30 May, 2010 AltLd rpt
Ed morris 13 May, 2010 Lead rpt pissed off the odd seagull
pissed off the odd seagull
Meanmachine Meaney 13 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Rob84 3 May, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun
with Lou
Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun
with Lou
barni 21 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S middle
middle
Sophie Nunn 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Nexonen 15 Apr, 2010 AltLd
with Huw
with Huw
cymjt ??, 2010 -
Hidden 16 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
Nexonen 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3
with Ceri
Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3
with Ceri
Ceridwen 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Brilliant! What an amazing route!!
with Andy
Brilliant! What an amazing route!!
with Andy
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 2nd
Stone Muppet 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S "covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.
with mu
"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.
with mu
The Bad Cough 24 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
with Lee Bonner
Trisha Murphy 8 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
d_meacher 8 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
cliffy 27 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
with Andrew Combes
Bob M 26 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 25 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Chris Todd
with Chris Todd
Hidden 5 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
david morse ?Aug, 2005 AltLd
with rampant
with rampant
Jason Gotel ?Jul, 2005 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
with Pippa Lansdown
Howard J 26 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with John Turner
with John Turner
Hidden ?May, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
five ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with JR
with JR
scott titt ??, 1980 -
70 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set