UKC

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).

27m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Eight Gauge. Make one move up then branch leftwards up a faint groove. Climb the easy slab above to the top corner of the through cave. Pull up then step left out of the chimney of Eight Gauge, above the roofs. Follow the wall above past a protruding pedestal. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, D.Viggers 21/Apr/1992.

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Route of Interest
Magic Flute

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Penally West)

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