Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
This hybrid starts and finishes on other routes but there is some good independent climbing, and it should be of interest to those looking for something new on this wall. Start up Brazen Buttress then traverse up and left across the wall to the right-hand side of the pedestal. Climb direct up a crack above to join Tempest at its crux and finish up this. It originally finished left of Tempest but this is very artificial. The original start up the arch is worth about E3 5c and combining this with the direct finish to Brazen makes a decent and balanced E3 5c combination. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 30/Aug/1991.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tuckleyn | 28 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The CC version (I.e. the actual route) is a good e3 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The CC version (I.e. the actual route) is a good e3 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Magic Flute
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Penally West)