Rockfax Description
The arete of Brazen Buttress gives a magnificently-positioned pitch which has set many a camera clicking. Start beneath the arete. Climb up the left-hand side to gain a crack. Follow this to some ledges on the arete (possible thread belay if the sea is threatening). Climb the left-hand side of the arete then move onto the arete proper. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.75 May/1975

mountain.martin 20/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Quite hard. Def worth e2 in my book.

Hidden 22/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
edgar_spaten 04/Sep/16 2nd

Climbed back the hardest moves because I am such a wussy!

with Tobi
Lenny 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sally & Bryon
bryan61 30/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with leon, sally
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead
robertmctague 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Martin
Lessworkmoreclimbing 24/Aug/16 Lead

Start is polished and tricky then tricky balancy crack. Pleasant after. E1 or E2? Either way a great route.

with Kev
alan rosier 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

In one. Tricky moves for 5b on the low crack.

ian d f 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd O/S
W d c ??/2016 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

A bit tough for the 'warm up route'.

with Joe Harris
gurumed 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 29/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
cdpuk 25/Sep/15 2nd
Bernie L 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S

from ledge because of incoming tide

anguskille 10/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan Robinson
Dizz 01/Aug/15 2nd

In the rain! Still a nemesis route!

with EJ
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/15 2nd
james.slater 01/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Dan724 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
james1978 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with martin haworth
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Well chuffed. Awesome route up there with any I've done. Good hard won gear on the start that keeps u pushing onwards. Then the hard bit. Leaving the big ledge. Lol. Top is brilliant to. I'd give it 3***s cause I loved it. Also my first e2. Guide said e1. Would not have pulled on else. 😁

casey johns 18/Apr/15 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Adam24B 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

A bit dirty at the moment but brilliant

Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
duncandarnell 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jord smith
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Soft E2 but stiff pull low down and pumpy gear. Top half beautiful HVS climbing.

Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd dog
Sarah Black 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gareth James, Paul Black
Cardi 30/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Irish, Sarah Joyce
mynyddresident 15/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with KP
shoulders 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Steven Carter 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Dizz 28/Jul/14 Lead
with rob p
guy757 17/Jul/14 -
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy
Patrick Hill 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Stefan_Morris 12/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 12/May/14 2nd rpt
with stefan
Mike Tutt 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Just about had time to squeeze this in before the tide came in. Raced up it so Dougie didn't get wet feet. Nice climbing though.

dswansonlow 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/13 Lead dnf
The Reaper 04/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Escape from Mother Carey's after going tom try Rock Idol what was sopping from the previous night's rain.

with frank mckenna
Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
JulesV 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead
The Grist 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Had to do in 2 pitches as running out of gear. Bottom half is much harder than the top - but perhaps that is because I was a little off route as started up Brazen Butress accidentally and had to traverse across. Brifly rested on a badly placed cam when I couldn't work out where to go. Poor show as it was a couple of easy moves to the luxurious belay ledge.

with Sadie Renwick
msoldn 19/May/13 Lead O/S

pumpy start for a warm up. had to do in 2 pitches placing too much gear in bottom bit and pumping out. prob only E1 if done in 2 pitches.

with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)
Chi Cheng 02/May/13 Lead rpt
with Adam Knightly
Olli-C 02/May/13 Lead β
Rachel Slater 02/May/13 2nd RP

Had a rest on lead last year. Not as bad as I remember.

Hidden ?/May/13 Lead rpt
Haydn Jones 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with pep
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
al99 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Burley to get round the bottom roof and pretty off balance for a few moves above!

martinazando 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Cowell
Ed Babs 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not as good as the other routes we did here.

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/12 2nd

Super polished at start

with Ed
Ollie B 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Damp at the bottom. Greasy crack to get onto the wall. Tad hungover. Worth it for the top arete. Tres Bon.

with B.Brewer
Cardi 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch. Hardest moves lower down. Lovely position.

with Tom R
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
Adam Booth 27/Jul/12 TR O/S

Just me and my shunt! (My mate had the shits.)

Hidden 18/Jul/12 Lead O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 05/Jul/12 Lead
with Colin Harvey
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
pembrokeshirecaver 11/May/12 2nd O/S
with Adam
NathanW ?/May/12 TR O/S
Rachel Slater 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

one rest at the slippery crack near the bottom. great route though

Chi Cheng 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Pippa 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tink
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd
drysori 15/Sep/11 Lead
with Jon L
LC ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
givemetea 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S

It was hard to place gear and move into the crack from a juggy handhold and super-polished tiny foothold. Top two thirds of the climb was pretty straightforward.

with Ann Chong
CRiddiford 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


with Mark
mark20 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
steve.warrington 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 28/Jul/11 2nd
thomasadixon 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
Nicola 03/Jul/11 2nd β
with Lee
Phill Mitch 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
ojp 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Dave
Dave Foster 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Started to the right of the arÍte which was steep and goey on glassy holds. Rest of the route was excellent in an amazing position.

with Si
Hidden 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Si
Alex Mason 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Abbed down to the tricky threads. Hard to leave this belay, then HVS for the rest imo.

mountain.martin 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Sustained with a few hards bits.

DanH9883 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
andy dunn 01/May/11 Lead O/S

High tide so abseiled down to the bottom of the crack and set up a hanging belay 5m above the sea... Some longish reaches between great holds. Awesome position!!

with J
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
monsteratt 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Great climb. Start was tricky getting into the cracks as I think I did a slightly devious start. Once above that great climbing on the face and arete

with Will S
LoopyLou 28/Aug/10 2nd

Led by Alison Cairns. A butch first third of pitch, tougher than it looks, but all there and plenty of gear if you have stamina to place it. Last half if climb is much easier, although with the pump a solid head is required to stay focussed.

Fran S8 01/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
just one more 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Superb position and climbing

with tony l, Svenn G
matt.woodfield 11/Jul/10 AltLd
sara n 25/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Paul Wolf
Hidden 08/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
clipskipper 21/May/10 Lead dog

Struggled to read the crux and got too tired to make it clean. Next time . .

with Davey Boy
metal arms 04/May/10 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 02/May/10 2nd
jacobjacob 02/May/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
robinsi197 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Neil
Leelogs 24/May/09 2nd
with Chris
steve.warrington 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Dan Hobbs
datoon 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines ??/2009 AltLd
with jon
Cowflinger 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Dai Morris
mikeshewring 30/Aug/08 2nd β
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/08 Lead dog
gforce 07/Aug/08 2nd
with Jason
spacey 02/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
VPJB ??/2008 -
Hidden 09/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Tim W 09/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Gareth Tucker, Dave Ripley
feilx 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Heather & Sophie
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/07 2nd
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
waltersp 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Stu
stuwelly85 07/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Paul Walters
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tom
tom_1985 ?/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Bux ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Mike
david morse ?/Apr/06 2nd
with chris todd
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 01/Sep/05 -
with Paul Morgan
Paul Evans 23/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Wilkinson
Sam and will 18/Aug/05 Lead O/S


with Anthony Bennett
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
cem 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Andrew Barker ?/Jun/04 Lead dog
with Claudia Whitcombe
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S

Previously led onsight with Bob circa 1988

with KM
alex_th 14/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Tim Riley
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 11/May/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Rock Fairy ?/Mar/02 2nd

Did it in one pitch. Hardest move near beginning of climb.

with david
robbo157 ??/2001 -
with Tim Sparrow
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/99 Lead
WB 03/May/99 Lead O/S
with Guy
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Graham Iles 19/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
Hidden 01/Feb/98 Lead O/S
rc ??/1998 Lead
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/93 Lead O/S
mikej 16/Jun/92 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Rich Kirby 29/Mar/91 AltLd
with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 30/May/89 Lead
Andy Say 27/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/88 AltLd
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with stumpy
Hidden 31/May/88 Lead O/S
michael burrows 31/May/88 Lead O/S
with steve williams
Stoney Boy 01/Apr/88 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 08/Aug/87 Lead
Billg 24/Jul/87 AltLd
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 20/Jul/87 AltLd
Hidden 19/Apr/87 2nd
John Marsland 17/Apr/87 Lead
with Guy Beaumont
andy gittins ??/1987 -
neilh 23/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Neil Smith
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/86 -
with RA
wynaptomos ?/Jun/86 2nd O/S
keefe 08/May/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden 15/Aug/85 AltLd
John Marsland 26/May/85 2nd
with Dave Soles
sadams 25/May/85 Lead
with Mark Bonham
ukb shark 09/Apr/85 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 09/Apr/85 Lead
with shark
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Mark Kemball 01/May/84 Lead
nicmac 01/May/84 2nd
andybirtwistle 24/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood
Mike Owen 23/Oct/82 -
with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove 19/Apr/81 Lead
with Mike Butler
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 01/Jan/78 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set