Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
The first of the hard routes has a steep start which is often a bit too wet. Start on a block below the groove right of Star Gate.
1) 6b, 15m. Step off a block and climb the groove to a bulge. Cross this and step right above the bulge into a corner. Follow this to a thread and swing around the arete to a small stance.
2) 5c, 20m. Pull out right above the stance and climb the bulge and wall above to some good holds on the left. Move up then step right into a cave. Finish leftwards up Star Gate. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison 31/Jul/1977.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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In One Door
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Mowing Word)