Rockfax Description
An intricate diagonal line across the Space Face.
1) 6a, 15m. Follow a right-trending wide crack for 5m. Move back left on big holds to a thread. Go straight up to a hole, then move right to another hole. Pull into the groove and belay.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to some juggy pockets which lead rightwards, past some threads, to the stance of Mother Night.
3) 5c, 20m. Pull out right to below an open groove. Traverse right across the blank wall to a good pocket. Follow the crack-line above, moving right around the bulge at the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 06/May/1979.
Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tom Briggs | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor). |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)