UKC

45m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an intricate diagonal line across it. Start on a block.
1) 6a, 15m. Move diagonally right to a bulge. Pull through this then swing left (direct to here is much harder) then press on up the jugs above to a short groove leading to a small ledge.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to some juggy pockets which lead rightwards, past some threads, to the stance of Mother Night.
3) 5c, 20m. Pull out right from the stance to below an open groove. Traverse right across the blank wall to a good pocket. Follow the crackline above, moving right around the bulge at the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 06/May/1979.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers, 101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+

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User Date Notes
Tom Briggs 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor).

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Trevallen Pillar - Original Finish

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)
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