The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 07/Apr/1978.
Ultimate E4 ticklist
The Best of Pembroke
The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Please Login to view more details on the logged
Grade: E5 6b ***
Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers.
This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about
holds or gear.
If you don't want to see βeta then select 'Always Hide βeta' and the comments will be hidden for you. You can
set this in your User Options.
If you read a comment that you think contains crucial βeta then you can mark it as 'βeta' using the flag on
If you see something incorrectly marked as βeta, you can hide it by clicking on the word 'βeta:' on the
You can also copy any of your previous personal ascent comments to Public Feedback if they contain useful general
They can be edited before posting to remove
personal content if required.