Rockfax Description
Only slightly easier than its direct neighbour and not as good.
1) 4c, 20m. As for Merlin Direct.
2) 5a, 30m. Follow Merlin Direct to the move rightwards out of the groove onto the rib. Head up and traverse rightwards below the steepening and move round into a corner. Belay on a tree below a final steep corner.
3) 4a, 5m. Battle up the final corner to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

foostu4 17/Sep Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 13/Sep AltLd
Ows 18/Aug AltLd rpt

Lead second pitch

Hidden 13/Aug 2nd
JoeWilliams 24/Jul AltLd O/S
with Ollie B
Ollie B 24/Jul AltLd O/S

Finished up Geireagle rather than the polished corner.

with J.Williams
Matt Schwarz 26/Jun AltLd dog

first proper fall, then katie pulled to tight and i came off again. finished on 3rd attempt

with katie
Katie S 26/Jun AltLd rpt

Matt lead pitch 1, I lead 2 and 3. Love this route!

emma1987 18/Jun AltLd O/S
lukey13 18/Jun AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
paul79 04/Jun AltLd
Rob Gillespie 28/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May -
chris ginge 04/May AltLd

with neil

rachelpearce01 17/Apr AltLd O/S
with Steven Daniels
steven_daniels99 17/Apr Lead
Alex Riley 04/Apr AltLd O/S
with Rich, Lee
jesse.stuck ?/Apr Lead
Hidden 09/Feb AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 02/Jan AltLd rpt
with Tom Doldon
Dominic Burke ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
h3l3n283 ??/2017 -
with Caoimhe Connor, Mark Oliver
andybirtwistle ??/2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
emlaw17 27/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

With Owen Jones

with jonesoc
Hidden 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd
rosso 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Bold overhang on first pitch. Extremely rewarding. At the end of the pitch bold move left of a flake to get on a nice ledge where a crack and a another flake offer great anchor points. Second pitch up a slab and then right with a nice chimney. Have a look for footholds before going up this. Great climb.

Gentleman Joe 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Nice climb and nice and sunny! Good variety of styles keeps it nicely interesting

Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd
swmackey 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Flashy 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Second pitch is the best, great climbing.

with JMM
pftom 19/Sep/16 2nd O/S
J_Spooner 17/Sep/16 AltLd
with Will Birkett
Hidden 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 AltLd
L.miura 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Part of PYB course. Ab down to the belay and lead P2 only as the bottom half was wet. It was a great climb, would be good to do the whole route next time.

with Alex
AlexBclimbing 02/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Katie S 27/Jul/16 AltLd
with Ste
SarahSharps 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Katie S 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Lead 1st and last pitch

Matt Schwarz 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

lead p2

with katie
dixiechick 08/Jun/16 -

MIA Training

Dandelion 02/Jun/16 2nd

Ray led. I couldn't do the move round the corner at the bottom, first pitch.

stonejumper 28/May/16 2nd
Hidden 27/May/16 AltLd
littleduck 17/May/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Tony Madden
Pimwuh 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p2

with Glynn
Hidden 05/May/16 AltLd O/S
Pinguville 05/May/16 AltLd O/S

nice route, varied climbing. Was pretty full as a re-into to climbing after winter ! i led P1 -found it pretty strenuous but once you go for the moves its okay, P2 - was very nice and the layback was tasty P3 i led , relatively easy top out

with George
Hidden 04/May/16 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 22/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with HG
Hidden 13/Apr/16 Lead dog
Luke Jones 10/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2

ads 09/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
gaz3212 05/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Andypeak 05/Apr/16 AltLd
ianstevens 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Joe Dean, Patrick AMC
joedean 11/Mar/16 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Lead
with Mike McGill
spragglerocks 11/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden 11/Dec/15 AltLd
paulsross 18/Oct/15 Lead
with John Heap, Jon Price
Tim Francis 22/Sep/15 -
AndrewP 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
robhunt 13/Sep/15 AltLd
with Gary Woodburn, Dave Price
djdavies 04/Sep/15 AltLd

Climbed and led the alternate start - pitch 1 of Rienneta.

corinrathbone 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S

P2+P3 only.

Katherine Ross 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great route with varied climbing. Climbers' Club guide puts the pitches at 5a, 4b, 4a, though, which doesn't seem unreasonable. James led P1 - steep and quite strenuous, Rowen led P2 - more delicate and I led P3 up the short steep corner. Beware the precarious looking flake at the top!

with Rowan Chesmer, James Chesmer
nicnac67 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S

very rewarding, loved the lay back 2nd pitch

with Dave Tidman
DanDevey94 20/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
soph 12/Jul/15 Solo rpt
with Tony Stone
suds_01 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
wi11 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Sabby
SenzuBean 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

I led 3rd pitch (the easy one)

with Olli
ads 24/May/15 AltLd

top 2 pitches only

Hidden 13/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/15 AltLd O/S
pauldrew 26/Apr/15 AltLd
with Ali Hutton
Morris123 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead
Wayne S 21/Mar/15 -
Hidden 14/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Mar/15 AltLd
BTphonehome 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Cass
SamN ??/2015 AltLd
jcw ??/2015 -
Darron ??/2015 -
ollyroberts 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S

In the rain, 5a start. MIA assessment.

with Dave Sarkar
Danny Crump 29/Sep/14 2nd
with Spike (PyB), James (Ambleside)
dtalbot 20/Sep/14 AltLd
with Wm
andrea83 14/Sep/14 2nd dnf

As part of PYB troubleshooting techniques-practised assisted hoists, traverse rescue etc.

with Andy
monkeytennis 14/Sep/14 2nd dnf

pitch one as part of skill course. lowered a bit for andrea to haul, traversed left for traverse rescue demo, abbed off thru brambles.

Uriah 07/Sep/14 Lead

With new girl Lizzie

Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
carl_123 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jon22 15/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dave Holland
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
iwanap 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Euryn
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
dig 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
PaulFidler 30/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with ian kevin williams
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
slab_happy 22/Jun/14 2nd
Joshthomas 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Cracking climb

ema 06/Jun/14 AltLd
Lucylou19 04/Jun/14 AltLd

Led pitch 1, chickened out and did the 4c variant of pitch one, still hard as nails. Seconding Pitch 2 in the rain was the hardest climbing ive ever done.

Hidden 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
daveclarke5 30/May/14 -
with Jim
Double Knee Bar 24/May/14 AltLd O/S

L 2nd pitch. Was greasy and started raining so finished up the VS rather than the direct.

with TomBond
gingerwolf 24/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, a little wet

with Glenn
Andy Chubb 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch solid 5a and strenuous with it. Second pitch a delight

with Nick Gregory
Tithe Technique 15/May/14 2nd O/S

Direct finish and 5a start

djking1983 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S

MIA refresher

Whitmoreaa 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rob Rendle
Hidden 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 17/Apr/14 Lead
jimshrimp 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Non-Direct version as in the NW 100 Classic Climbs Guide. Simple first pitch, much better second pitch. Would do the Direct Start next time, as it would be more in keeping.

Melok 12/Apr/14 Lead
Melok 12/Apr/14 Lead
ItsHuwHaribo 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice classic route. Recommended

Katie S ?/Apr/14 2nd
nodwas ?/Apr/14 Lead
kivell 26/Mar/14 -
Hidden 26/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead
Fred_Richard 09/Mar/14 -
with Andy Mccoy
AndyMcCoy 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Fred
davebrox ??/2014 -
KKilroy ??/2014 AltLd O/S
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Si ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Darron 06/Oct/13 -
Hidden 02/Oct/13 2nd rpt
caradoc 29/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with Matt H.
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead 02/Sep/13 Lead
SamHallam ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Simon Cahill 28/Aug/13 2nd rpt

Took the VS4c option on pitch 1.

Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lizzie S 15/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 AltLd
climb the peak 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Jefferies, tommy moore
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dnf
si_green99 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
timmsy 02/Aug/13 AltLd
David_Gledson 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 2. Pitch one, very nice. Pitch 2 is incredible, so good! Felt very hard at the grade.

Hidden 25/Jul/13 2nd
SattyA 25/Jul/13 2nd
jcasey2436 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

with Joe birchall
gripped01 01/Jul/13 AltLd
with Dave Tait
alias dave 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jack.williams1 05/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Dogged the first pitch and then retreated as the fear got the better of me, requiring a visit to the toilet again!

with Neil Henson
Louis Hume 30/May/13 Lead

Our old guide was in feet and listed as VS4c so manned-TF-up on first pitch because I bailed on Nifl-Heim yesterday - so chuffed to succeed and double-chuffed it's now 5a.

with Oli
DanBid 29/May/13 2nd dnf

Abbed off after first pitch due to heavy rain

Kyle87 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

p1 & 2

Tala A 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Got a bit lost at the top of p2. Must buy the new guide

lucas95 14/May/13 2nd
mr mills 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dionne & Chris
Ray Sparks 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
with pete ranstead
Jones_88 ?/May/13 AltLd dog

May have rested on the rope

Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
Dizz 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with mikey, Marion
Mike Caine 27/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Marion NLMC, Liz NLMC
NB Pixel 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Great- led P1, which I seconded in my 1st year of climbing... Steep but good! Interesting traverse on P2

with Harri!
Harri777 27/Apr/13 AltLd
with Naomi
rjpritchard 19/Apr/13 AltLd
Aaron Hauptmann 16/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Climbed merlin in the wet, and first pitch in the rain. positive holds made it very climbable despite conditions. Came back for Merlin after three years ago I had to bail from the first belay.

with Matz
Hidden 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
mevanssmith ?/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/13 -
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
clarky_two ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Jess Print ?/Nov/12 2nd
alpinebutterfly 22/Oct/12 -
Ian Clare 20/Oct/12 Lead
with Rob Rendle
quarrtman1 28/Sep/12 2nd
with Allister
simon geering 26/Sep/12 2nd

PYB rapid development rock climbing course. Started off Rienetta slab.

with Bradley
kristinawe 19/Sep/12 2nd
Dom Cordner 12/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Pete_Frost 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Climbed pitch 1 then abseiled off when partner could not follow. Thread protection for crux is superb if using thin, dyneema slings.

with Dave Pearce
scott mayled ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S

RCI training

Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Shaun Stephens, Steve Long
Hidden 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
brockers ?/Aug/12 Lead rpt

pouring down with rain, rescue practice for MIA assessment.

with Richard Robinson
HIGHTOWER 29/Jul/12 AltLd
with Jiffy, Fay Potton
Simon Cahill 15/Jul/12 AltLd

Lead pitch 1 & short 3rd pitch.

Frank Blakeley 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led Pitch 2 up the layback crack..

with Simon, Tim
christoph owen 08/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with gethin
wynaptomos 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
stvredmond 25/Jun/12 AltLd

led p1 and 3. good climb with some thuggy moves on p1

Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tatiana Heise, Louise Perrins
lou_p 27/May/12 2nd
with Jim
John Lewis 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Barra, Simon
mdodd 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Justin Tracey 05/May/12 AltLd
with Mike Dodd
fizzychewitt 15/Apr/12 Lead
with John, Martin
klo1981 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Iain
DanC1985 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Simon G
scott mayled 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

done with micky dawber

Claire Sephton 01/Mar/12 2nd

Led by Murdo. Not sure I'd have fancied leading the last bit of the first pitch.

with Murdo, Mandy West
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd β
Hidden 01/Feb/12 -
Hidden 23/Jan/12 AltLd
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
sgp311 ??/2012 AltLd
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Mark Eddy ??/2012 AltLd

Training course

with Frank
Hidden 16/Nov/11 2nd dog
AntWallace 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
kristinawe 31/Oct/11 2nd
bwestwood 05/Oct/11 Lead

mia training

Hidden 21/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
climbing_wiggy 17/Sep/11 AltLd rpt

Led 1st pirch

with Richard (smc)
Hidden 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
birthers 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Colin
victim of mathematics 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

With the variation start - makes for a pleasant easy VS/HS this way.

with Tom B
edmitchell 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Virginia Q, Yashvi Wimasalesna
centurion05 09/Jul/11 AltLd
Blurgy319 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2 & 3 together

rclarke 06/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Englishvoodoo ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex
Frank Blakeley 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led first pitch then had to bail due to time, great lead, a bit of a gnarly final move onto belay ledge...

with Dion
dionhughes 20/Jun/11 2nd dnf

Frank led the harder 1st pitch, then we bailed.

with Frank
Hidden 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Barry D 11/Jun/11 Lead
with Trish
climbing_wiggy 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Have previously climbed the first pitch

with Justin (cc)
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
Sianny 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S


Rachel Slater 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 31/May/11 2nd

Rixham lead both pitches

marc1967 10/May/11 2nd dog
with Steve Keys
Abi Chard 01/May/11 AltLd β

With Val. Led first pitch - had seconded when did Merlin Direct.

Gabe Oliver ?/May/11 Lead dog
amy 30/Apr/11 2nd
with will_he_fall
Glyn 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. Just as good as the first time..4 years ago

with Trystan
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Lloyders 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mike_uk82 16/Apr/11 -
jezb1 16/Apr/11 AltLd

P1. Felt 5a to me. Wanted to do direct but a bit wet in the drizzle.

SamChessell 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mbradberry2008 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/11 2nd O/S
funsized 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
loz901 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd
psychomansam 22/Jan/11 AltLd

led first. nice

SAF 09/Jan/11 AltLd G/U

Led pitch 2, fell on crux!!!

with George Bradford
climb the peak ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
MJS ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
RachelP 12/Nov/10 2nd
with Dom, Andy T
Hidden 12/Nov/10 AltLd
DomWatson ?/Nov/10 -
adam06 16/Oct/10 AltLd
with dan sturman
tomwheeler 29/Sep/10 2nd

Amazing climb!

with Perm
mbradberry2008 20/Sep/10 2nd O/S
edmitchell 28/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
jubolo 21/Aug/10 2nd
with mark
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
hedgehog77 15/Jun/10 AltLd
with ratty
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 02/Jun/10 AltLd RP
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
craig h 30/May/10 AltLd
with Janet Hannah
r.greaves 16/May/10 AltLd

groove 5a in guide

with aled davies
steven 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave Ryder
Andrew Lester 11/May/10 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 08/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Chris
benkelsey ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jenny o'Reilly
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead
tasmat 24/Apr/10 Lead

Great climb!

with phildavies84
phildavies84 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Will have to lead next time. Very nice

with Matt Jones
tomosb 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Darren Thompson
JRSB1991 ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Aaron Hauptmann 14/Mar/10 2nd dnf

Only finished the first pitch, as we needed to meet up with the group. First Pitch was great though, really disappointed we didn't get to finish it. Next time I'm there maybe take on the lead.

with Matt Jones
KatieG 10/Mar/10 -
beeson_paul 07/Mar/10 AltLd
dan-8990 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with PB
Robin Head 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Robin Head
crag_monster ?/Mar/10 AltLd
edpd1b ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 07/Feb/10 AltLd rpt

Wyn first Me second Alan third pitches

with Wyn Price, Alan Evans
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
carlh ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
B-bop 11/Dec/09 2nd
with Olly
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S
christoph owen 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

nice final pitch up the crack

Keith Jones 30/Sep/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 09/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
LaLa08 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Alan and Chris
gingergeorge 12/Aug/09 Lead

Nice climb must do the direct next. the final crack a little polished

with Andy
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
sdrawkcabeoj 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Great climb, tricky in places but well worth the effort. Would climb it again :)

with Ken Priest
simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 2nd β
Hidden 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway 09/Jun/09 AltLd
with Huw
jpmole ?/Jun/09 -
Ben HW 23/May/09 AltLd β
with David Brown, Jo Torr, Stephen Sweeney
Klingon 23/Apr/09 AltLd
with Chris Beynon
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Bex_M 10/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Ewan Buckingham
Dom Whillans 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with a.crook
A Crook 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Carly 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with sophie
Hidden 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
stevehaskew 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf
en7edh ??/2009 Lead
Wayne S ??/2009 Lead
Owen_P ??/2009 Lead O/S
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Scott McRae 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Well worth the stars. Will do the direct next time. Led final two pitches as one. Very hot for time of year - no chalk!

with Nick Pearson
Will Jung 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy Bramal
Hidden 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
ritchierich 18/Aug/08 AltLd rpt
groovy_nut 17/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd (miniature) pitches

with Ritchie
manmike 17/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 17/Aug/08 AltLd

Led Pitch 2 - Lay back Cam City

fizzychewitt 26/Jul/08 2nd
with John Heap
GScot38 ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
idiotproof (Buxton MC) ?/Jun/08 -
inuklm ?/Jun/08 AltLd
with Ben Ram
Strange little creature 25/May/08 AltLd O/S

Nice relaxing climb after Sheath on Cloggy the day before :-)

with Scott Cramp
Mrs Weasel 21/May/08 AltLd

Led pitch 3

JiveWeasel 21/May/08 AltLd

Climbed 1st pitch as described in Steve Ashton's "100 Classic Climbs". A tricky move off the leaning block, then fairly chossy climbing up to the first belay. After that it was a classy route to the top. Mrs W led Pitch 3.

PaulWatson 19/May/08 2nd O/S

Excellent climb, loads of variation (2nd day of Rock and Sun Multipitch course)

with Paul G
zchael6 ?/May/08 Lead
ttjones 19/Apr/08 2nd
with Richard & Emma
spum 12/Apr/08 AltLd
with keith
Hidden 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead
Peeley.b 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S

All pitches led by Andy, third climb of the day.

with Andy Bruce, Steve Woodford
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
roberto18 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
lazydaizy24 ??/2008 -
sgl0jd ??/2008 -
crezzer 07/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Abseiled down to main ledge. Climbed from there, traversing right then using tree to assist climb on to arete for finish.

with Tony Penning & Ray ?
@ndy 20/Oct/07 AltLd
alek 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Bex_M 05/Oct/07 2nd O/S

with PYB

with Ewan Buckingham
MikeLell 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Terry and Fred
Hidden 02/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
King Smudger 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch into a comically corner stand off at top of pitch, took a few atempts to get out of corner! Ray swiftly lead second pitch

with Ray Wilde
Clee 26/Aug/07 2nd β
with Steve
Different Steve 26/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Clio
Hidden 24/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
smolders 31/May/07 AltLd

with PYB trainer and safety rope

with Merlin K
Adam Booth 07/May/07 Lead O/S

Only first pitch then pissed it down

with Kevin Williams
Hidden ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
Lev 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Keith Jones 06/Apr/07 2nd
with David
Wayne S ??/2007 -
Glyn ??/2007 -
with Trystan
climber sim ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Benwa 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

I lead the 3rd pitch

with Nick, Harriet
Hidden 22/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
NickST ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Harriet Ridley, Ben Read
Monk 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
ducle 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Couldn't find the first pitch so went up a very very green corner with a tree at the top that was definitely not there when the guide book photo was taken. Second pitch was absolutely fabulous!

with David Prady
mullermn 30/Sep/06 2nd
with Monkey
Hidden 22/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Dan 85 21/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Sylvi 11/Jun/06 2nd
with Scott
Hidden 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
edmitchell 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Good steep initial pitch. Loved it!

with kai ren
chris warner 17/May/06 AltLd

last two pitches, excellent route

with matt walker
KeithW 13/May/06 AltLd O/S

Led 1st & 3rd, almost set off up Direct finish but bottled. Come back & do it, much better finish!

with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 23/Apr/06 2nd
Rampikino 08/Apr/06 AltLd
with Mark Hills
Hidden 18/Feb/06 AltLd
farmus21 ??/2006 AltLd
with John Pickles
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
MazElden ??/2006 AltLd
NickBrat ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
NickST ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
NickST ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

first VS

with Ben Read
Rich A-Wilkes ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

I took the 2nd pitch

with Rob Grey
SuperstarDJ 21/Sep/05 2nd

Done in the afternoon of the third day of the 'Brenin' course. Didn't managed to climb it cleanly - got to the top of the crack on the penultimate pitch and ran out of holds (my claim is that my partners were standing on all the good ones!). Lee stuck a QD through a nut for me to pull on - my first bit of aid climbing! Another great route.

with Lee from Plas-Y-Brenin
Hidden 26/Aug/05 Lead O/S
ritchierich 16/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Ritchie Griffiths
nigel pearson ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Yoko
NewLeaf ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with craig
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
clive-greenwood 27/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Elsa
cb01mfd ??/2005 Lead O/S
climbtim ??/2005 -
Fatclimber ??/2005 Lead dog

First pitch only

with Clare Field
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
franny 05/Sep/04 2nd dog
with Sam Stirrup
greedo ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Tim bray, Matt goater
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 19/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/03 2nd
John Pickles ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Leo
samwelli 29/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Phil West 03/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Steve Chandler
Hammy 03/Jun/03 AltLd
with Ian Barker
Marq 31/May/03 AltLd O/S

Martin, Me

with Martin P
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
pigeonjim ??/2003 Lead O/S
Neil ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/02 AltLd
auld al ??/2002 Lead O/S

1st pitch

Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
akhughes ?/Oct/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
caradoc 20/Apr/01 AltLd O/S

Previously with Gill and Ian. 01 07 99.

with john b
Hidden ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
marcoleptic ??/2000 -
rlrs ??/2000 2nd
with DJ
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
lost.arrow 18/Jul/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
lost.arrow 20/Jun/99 Lead
Nige G 31/Mar/99 2nd

abseil off

with PYB course
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
five ?/Jun/98 AltLd rpt
EllieWoods ?/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with Laura
kjbix 14/May/98 AltLd
with Richard Beech
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/98 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Solo
Mark Stevenson 01/Nov/97 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 24/Aug/97 Lead O/S

All pitches

with Roy Thomas
buxtoncoffeelover 29/Mar/97 2nd
iskra2000 24/Mar/97 AltLd
with Danuska Rycerz
pete_fewings ??/1997 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones 08/Dec/96 AltLd rpt
with Richard Garnett
sdht ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
belay bunny turned bad ??/1995 -
nai ??/1995 AltLd
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
colin milton 23/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton
colin milton 23/Jun/94 AltLd

with direct finnish

with eric milton
Hidden 02/Jun/94 AltLd
five ?/Jan/94 Lead O/S
with D
Budge ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Ellen Williams
Richard Weller 11/Jul/93 Lead

and Christina

with Juliet
3 Names ?/Jul/93 Lead
beaumap 24/May/93 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
chris d williams 16/May/93 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
BigHairyIan 08/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Murray
SimonN 14/Jun/92 Lead
Ian Archer 02/Jun/92 Lead
with Peter Horton
jfletcher 30/Nov/91 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
Hidden 29/Dec/90 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/90 Lead
mattnuttall ?/Apr/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
nigehughes ?/Apr/90 Lead
with Gary Clough
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
tlr 24/Oct/89 AltLd
with Fin
lithos ?/Jul/89 Lead
andy tetsill ?/Jun/89 Lead
with Joy
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with Bill Nash
Hidden 26/Mar/89 Lead
OMSKB ??/1989 -
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Iain Thow 29/Oct/88 Lead

Via LH start as recent rockfall on 1st pitch

with Nick Hunt
Hidden ?/May/88 2nd O/S
Carl Smethurst 23/Sep/87 AltLd
with Simon Tovell
babymoac 22/Aug/87 Lead
with MTW
Steve Crowe 25/Jul/87 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/87 Lead
Hidden ?/May/87 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
Hidden 05/Oct/86 AltLd
Backinthegame 23/Mar/86 Lead O/S
with Stephen hughes
steve taylor ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S

First VS

with Simon Leigh-Smith
steve taylor ?/Mar/86 Lead
with ????
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/85 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/85 Lead
Hidden 19/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/85 Solo
Hidden ?/May/85 Lead
malc 02/Mar/85 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1985 AltLd
sadams 15/Sep/84 AltLd
with Celia Bull
Will Webb ?/Jul/84 -
with Nick Watkins
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
andy tetsill ?/Nov/83 Lead
with Manchester Poly
Hidden 29/May/83 Lead
hazeysunshine 01/May/83 AltLd O/S
RichardMc 06/Feb/83 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/83 2nd
AlanLittle ??/1983 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Oct/82 Lead
with Pete Winn
nigehughes ?/Jun/82 AltLd
with Alec Pirrie
nigehughes ?/May/82 AltLd
with Pete Kay
leland stamper 07/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Mark V
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hidden 04/May/81 Solo
leland stamper ?/Apr/81 AltLd
The Reaper 29/Mar/81 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 26/Mar/81 Lead


with Andy Roberts
RichardMc 15/Feb/81 Lead
with Sarah Martin
AlanLittle ?/Feb/81 Lead

my first VS lead

with Aki Shiobara
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Solo
Hidden ??/1981 -
Neil R 18/Jun/80 AltLd
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/80 AltLd O/S
with Spike
Nic Robinson 26/May/80 Lead O/S
with Alice Hampton
Mike C 16/Feb/80 AltLd
with Jon Tinker
mark-abz 16/Feb/80 Lead
with Rob S
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
kennylind ??/1980 2nd O/S
with Ian Rea
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1980 -
TonyF 21/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Ian Birkinshaw
Hammy 17/Apr/79 AltLd
with Jonathan Stacey
Mike C 21/Oct/78 Lead
with Pete Cazalet
duncan ?/Oct/78 AltLd O/S
Chris Terrey 04/Mar/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
RichardMc 03/Dec/77 Lead

Wearing mountain boots

with Betty Seifert
mikej 29/Jun/77 Lead
with Tony Waite
rogerskews ?/Apr/77 -
with Macclesfield CC Members
Hidden 19/Mar/77 Lead
RichardMc 13/Mar/77 AltLd
with Daphne Pritchard
Hidden 16/Feb/77 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 Lead
with Will Walker
jmr 26/Nov/76 AltLd
with Bob Howard
Hidden ?/Jun/76 AltLd
beaumap ?/Apr/76 AltLd
with Ian Harmer
Bolt Phobia 28/Mar/76 Lead
with Nicole
Steve Lewis 28/Feb/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
pneame ?/May/75 -
Mark Kemball 16/Feb/75 AltLd
with Steve Marriott
Mike Owen ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 13/Oct/74 Lead
RichardMc 25/Aug/74 Lead
with Alan Cowperthaite
Bob M ?/Jun/74 -
with Geraldine King
Hidden 10/Apr/74 Lead dnf
Nigel Bond 07/Oct/73 Lead
with John
RichardMc 09/Jun/73 AltLd
with Mike Power, Alastair Gordon
kjacks ??/1973 Lead

Original Start

with Ken Lax
mikej 03/Apr/72 AltLd
with E, Geoff Williams
RichardMc 05/Jan/72 AltLd
with Roger Everett
Martin Bennett 09/Jun/71 -
with JD
tapley 03/Apr/71 AltLd
RichardMc 17/Jan/71 Lead
with Dave Francis
greenbuoy 07/Aug/70 Lead
with Dave G
eroica64 25/Apr/70 Lead
with Mike Hegarty
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
Tom V ??/1970 -
RichardMc 15/Apr/69 AltLd
with Ian Broome
Gordon Stainforth 17/Aug/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/68 AltLd

This was the first climb when I discovered what rope-drag was all about!!

with Dick Curtis
mikej 05/Apr/68 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
RichardMc 30/Mar/67 Lead
with Tom Shreeve
RichardMc 06/Jan/67 2nd


with Ian Stromberg
eroica64 ?/May/66 Lead
with Percy aka Mike Spring
Hidden 12/Mar/66 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/65 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/65 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/65 Lead
uphillnow ??/1963 -
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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