Rockfax Description
A sustained and much sought-after tick that follows the right-hand side of the grey wall. Start at a short rib right of Wogs.
Climb the easy rib just left of the shallow overhung cave until below a short white corner. Pull up into the corner and continue via a steep bulging wall, two pegs, to beneath an overlap. Using a suspect block with care, pull up and left into a corner and progress up this with interest to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Rayson 1961

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hidden 19/Nov/17 TR rpt
petecallaghan 30/Aug/17 Lead dog

Now I know where the gear goes... small wires in the two cracks to the LHS of the crux, then step back up into the sentry box on top of the ring peg and place another good medium wire. Reach for the jugs and continue

with ben stainfield
Brodes 25/Jun/17 2nd dog

Very nice route, but fell off the crux twice.

cem 25/Jun/17 Lead dog

Screwed it up again (as in 2013). Had to rest at the second peg after not working out/getting on with the crux sequence quickly enough.

felixwilkins 10/May/17 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 11/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Seb Flynn
Hidden 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
keepguessing 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Could have done better.

LDJ 05/Nov/16 Lead

No need to touch the suspect hanging block - move left on the slab and pull over the overhang into the groove on positive holds

with Lou
Rob Moorcroft 16/Jun/16 2nd
with Richard Ive
petecallaghan 30/Mar/16 TR rpt

Felt much easier.

with Jamie T
Hidden 30/Mar/16 TR RP
mark schramm 05/Mar/16 TR rpt
with Dave C
petecallaghan 21/Feb/16 TR dnf
Hidden 13/Oct/15 TR dog
mark schramm 11/Oct/15 TR rpt
with Jamie, Dave C
Tom Seccombe 13/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with max goodman, tj murry
Sean Kelly 08/Jul/15 TR dnf

Ran out of finger power halfway up. I'll be back when I'm fresher.

with Pete Callaghan, Ellie Woods
petecallaghan 08/Jul/15 TR rpt

A lovely route, but I'm not yet brave enough to lead it.

EllieWoods 08/Jul/15 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 TR
LauraTejada ?/Jun/15 TR
Joe Costello 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd rpt
tobydunford 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 08/Apr/15 2nd
with Ferdia
dbrooks 25/Jan/15 Lead O/S

awesome route... pegs before the crux are convenient and give u the confidence to power through

with Jack
supersouthward 25/Jan/15 2nd
with Derwood
BC 05/Jan/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 05/Jan/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 30/Dec/14 2nd β
alice fuller 01/Oct/14 Lead β

gear beta well appreciated, thanks Pete enjoyed the climb. Never thought I would lead it when I seconded it a few years ago:)

sheelba 21/Sep/14 2nd
alastairbegley 21/Sep/14 Lead

Had to rest at the second peg as I couldn't work the crux out due to the odd rock being hard to read

Duncan Campbell 12/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Great to climb again, a lovely route.

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

stiff pull, great crag

5210Hill 10/Jun/14 Lead RP
Lee_Meaden 27/May/14 Lead RP

Favourite route at Chud! Great flowing moves with good gear. Hanging block feels precarious...

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Lee_Meaden 20/May/14 TR RP
Dean Russell 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/14 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Feb/14 Lead dog
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
alice fuller 23/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/13 Lead rpt
francois 10/Oct/13 2nd
with Chawn
I Jones 24/Sep/13 2nd

Really nice climb, but had to rest by the peg! Damm!!!

with Russ
Russell Blackaller 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Epic route. Loved every minute.

with Ian
riddle 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Charles Moreton
cem 22/Sep/13 Lead dog

Had to rest by the peg after messing up the crux sequence first time round.

Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S
bryan61 05/Jun/13 2nd RP

a joint effort really,

with andy
metal arms 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dan S
Matt77 28/Apr/13 2nd dog

Would have climbed this clean but for a stuck nut.

with Owen
Owen W-G 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Techie crux but never desperate with regular bomber gear, good choice for those breaking into the grade?

with Matt B
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Ed morris 14/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Felt pretty solid at E2, think i missed some gear as i only found the one peg. Quality route

with Ian
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
BelayBunney 27/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Had trouble finding the right sequence on the crux - the side pulls are not obvious! Nice climb though. Was quite tired after the crux.

francois 27/Sep/12 Lead

Clean this time but still tricky around the crux.

with Chris
Hidden 14/Sep/12 2nd
Chaman 11/Jul/12 TR

One rest at crux

with Pete Callaghan, David Coley
petecallaghan 11/Jul/12 TR
with Chaman
mark schramm 27/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Dave C
rustaldo 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Best route of the day. Tricky crux, borderline 5c, well protected with 2pegs. Great route.

Hinchrn 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S

An epic route. so happy that I was strong enought to pull on the worst pinch an two fringer lock.

Mr Powly 08/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B
Hidden 01/May/12 Lead dog
ian d f 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ed Babs 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
burto 27/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with steve
AlexD 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Dale Turrell 24/Nov/11 2nd O/S
francois 06/Nov/11 Lead dog

Tricky crux. Too pumped to do the move first go

with Chawn
just one more 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Well protected,E1 i think

with Svenn G
thomb 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jo
jbulger 25/Jul/11 2nd
timreynolds 29/Jun/11 TR
DCIGadget 29/Jun/11 TR dnf

Climbed nicely to crux then wrong handed it, couldn't swap hands got pumped fell off tried again but too pumped

with Dave SDMC
Hidden 29/Jun/11 TR β
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead
with Dave Coley
chris j 28/May/11 Lead rpt

Finally worked out a good foot sequence through the crux & didn't get wrong-handed as a result, made it so much easier!

with Nick Saunders
feilx 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 30/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dave C
matt_read 20/Mar/11 TR O/S
with Aiden Boyce
Hidden 08/Mar/11 TR rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/11 TR
Hidden 11/Feb/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 11/Feb/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
willbatho 11/Feb/11 Lead β

cheers tom!

Bristoldave 15/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with nick
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 2nd RP
adam cooper*super* 10/Dec/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Eike 09/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/10 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

first E2

chris j 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 04/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Johnny Baker 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great climb

with Matt Knapp
Chris_barr 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
thomb 20/Jun/10 Lead β
jcook1980 06/Jun/10 2nd
with Dan Walker
Eike 05/May/10 2nd
with David Coley
tom169 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Pawel
raku 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Mulier
thomb ?/Feb/10 -
Brown 03/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Lilifa
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
chris j 08/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
duzinga 08/Sep/09 Lead dnf

not a good day for me. Didn't have the head to go past the pegs.

with Gary, Pete
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Duncan Campbell 07/Aug/09 Lead RP

ground up second try got flashed pumped on my first go on crux!!

PaulTanton 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 04/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 24/Jun/09 2nd dog


with Tom
tonanf ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with burt
tskelhon ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Jack_F 26/May/09 Lead O/S
with Max hodges
MH123 25/May/09 2nd O/S
sinbad 21/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ed Southwood
Ally Smith ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
benkelsey ??/2009 2nd O/S
Reeges 27/Dec/08 Lead β

Lived up to the hype!

Hidden ?/Dec/08 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
alaan 25/Aug/08 2nd
with Aly
Jon_Warner 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Second E2. Very Safe. Brilliant!!

with Tom
Justin T 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Very satisfying to get it clean at last - felt much more steady having grown some arms!

with Wifey
Steerpike 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Huw
bpmclimb 20/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Had a bad day today. Various excuses, but basically wimped out. Will do it next visit

with Mark
Hidden 17/Nov/07 2nd rpt
Steerpike 03/Nov/07 2nd RP
with Tommo
Steerpike 03/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Tommo
Hidden 22/Oct/07 2nd β
Justin T 27/Sep/07 Lead dog
with Crispin
chris j 17/Aug/07 Lead dog
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd
tonanf ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with james
Dave Searle 10/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/07 2nd dog
pezzerrr 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/06 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 07/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Tough move onto the main wall- very good climbing

with Mark Glaister
bronsonite 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/05 Lead rpt

Never have I had so much fun on a route - crux seemed hard, but very well protected. Guidebook said E1 5b, but then again Pat Littlejohn is a lot stronger than me!

with Kat Spinney
craig h 08/Dec/04 Lead O/S
with Geoff Green
Macca_7 14/Sep/03 Lead O/S

Really good route technical and classy

with Ann Fisher
Ben1983 ?/Jul/03 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/03 Lead RP
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Wayne Miller
richsmithinbristol 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with Rob Sutton
Hidden ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/1999 -
sadams 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Long
John Mcshea ??/1997 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Jun/96 Lead
with Noel
Roget 04/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S

Steep and sustained from the big ledge. Superb.

with Chris Hingston
steve taylor ??/1995 -
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
Neil R 30/Sep/94 Lead

One rest by peg

with Sharon
Hidden 16/Jul/94 Lead O/S
tapley ?/Jul/94 2nd
sdht ??/1994 -
pmot ??/1994 Lead O/S
kristian ??/1993 Lead
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
jcw ?/Mar/92 -
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/90 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/90 2nd O/S
Derek Ryden 19/May/90 2nd rpt
with John Hunt
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 05/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Krishna
Pete Nugent 12/Feb/89 2nd dog

needed 1 rest on p1. [given E1 5b at the time]

Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 28/Aug/86 Lead
with Caroline Farmer
Martin Bennett 25/Jun/86 TR
Hidden ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 25/Jun/85 Lead
with Pete Shewell
Billg ??/1985 Lead O/S

My first E1.... Grade creep in action

with Dave Gregory
Hidden 27/Aug/84 Lead β
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 TR
with Andy W
Mike C 01/Apr/79 2nd

Used second peg for aid.

with Jon Grubb
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 53
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set