Follow the leftward slanting grove-line a the right hand side of the cliff all the way to the roofs. Traverse right to outflank the overhangs and finish up the final wall.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Gower S-HVS *+, Orange Spot Gower, CUMC Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Welcome to CUMC.

rachelpearce01 25/Sep 2nd O/S
Climbthatpitch 17/Sep Lead O/S
mr_w 17/Sep Lead O/S

Very polished holds on traverse (squeaky bum time), and a fair bit of pump whilst placing gear prior to the crux. Being of "short stature" doesn't help get over the roof, but managed to pull it off albeit without any grace

mop449 12/Sep Lead O/S

Awesome route

with Droyd
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug Lead O/S

Great route, never let's up, seemed at the upper end for VS

with Becky E
Phil_Brock 27/Aug Lead O/S

LMC Gower meet. Got a bit sweaty on the traverse (hand holds very polished, feet not good for a couple of moves) then pumped out hanging around on the overhang for too long but committed and managed to pull through! Great climb.

subdir 27/Aug Lead O/S

Great quality, polished handholds and small footholds make the traverse interesting, but main challenge was clipping the cam I placed above the overhang as quickdraw was hanging behind my neck... setting up a belay at the top is not the easiest challenge

with Andy
Dai Richards 27/Aug 2nd
Hidden 26/Aug -
Q.Estelles 26/Aug 2nd O/S
Maz J 24/Aug 2nd
with Simon Jones
jshields 17/Aug Lead

Great route.

David Henchliffe 17/Aug 2nd
simoncov 08/Jul Lead rpt
with Etta
Etta 08/Jul 2nd

In one pitch. I really enjoyed it!

laurence_falconer 02/Jul Lead
Zolly Whitaker 02/Jul 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul Lead
label 02/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun 2nd
JGriffiths 25/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun Lead rpt
featuresforfeet 24/Jun 2nd rpt
chris cockbain 22/Jun AltLd O/S
Tom Draude 22/Jun AltLd O/S
PatrickBoothroyd 20/May Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May 2nd
Sharp94 20/May -
Hidden 12/May Lead
ACT 29/Apr Lead
anne_schumacher 29/Apr 2nd
Donny M 25/Apr Lead O/S

Did it in one pitch don't see the point in belaying under the roof

with Peter Durin
Lessworkmoreclimbing 12/Apr 2nd

Not quite as fine as Isis but still good.

with Kev
James Lamb 11/Mar Lead rpt
thetradlad 12/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Ollie Willmot, Annie Rose
JackSewell1997 ?/Nov/16 Lead dog

Fell on E1 so finished up this

with Henry
Hidden 31/Oct/16 Lead
BHuthers 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route, wooden wedge is quality

stutoms 22/Oct/16 2nd
jamie d 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
cobaltellen 08/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Camilla Ulvestad , Ailish Ni Grianan
wnicholson 08/Oct/16 Lead rpt
camulv 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Sharp94 08/Oct/16 2nd dog

Dogged and almost bottled

Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd
Ailish Ni Grianan ?/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ellen
Hidden 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Penny32 17/Sep/16 Lead

one move wonder but fun route

with Mike D
WillAndrew 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
eoinb 28/Aug/16 Lead
lyneux 28/Aug/16 Lead β
with Kat Sizer
jbuoey 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 2nd dog
featuresforfeet 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt
mr random 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with B Sosin
Hidden 25/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead
GHawksworth 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with rosatb
rosatb 27/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Robaduck 07/Jun/16 AltLd
NickWinn 01/Jun/16 2nd β
with George Bridgewater
Talia Drew 01/Jun/16 2nd dog
with olly light
acer2012 31/May/16 Lead
with Nick Winn
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
JenDurden 29/May/16 2nd
with Sion F-R
Lizlet13 ?/May/16 AltLd O/S

Belayed under roof (wimped out of the polished hand traverse/pull through the roof bit) but easy enough on second!

with PD
kierankeavy 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/16 2nd dog
stalbot 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Beautiful climb on a perfect sunny day, would highly recommend taking a minute at the roof to check out the view behind you!

with Erin
dkilner 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/16 2nd rpt
wnicholson 13/Feb/16 Lead O/S
AndreaPeintner 13/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with Matt Urquhart
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
matthew.n.u ??/2016 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 18/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

With mr G. Lead the first pitch to an awesome semi hanging belay where I got to appreciate the view over the bay, G did the traverse failing to clip the wedge

Hidden 16/Oct/15 2nd O/S
gwynjones 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
James Lamb 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 03/Oct/15 Lead

Awesome route. Love a good wooden wedge in the afternoon.

STipuric 03/Oct/15 2nd
badgerjockey 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rich/Kuang
BarrySW19 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Tough for the grade - slab/groove is tricky and the overhang fairly pumpy and devoid of footholds.

with Jon
George Frisby 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
SenzuBean 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lovely route! :D

with Barry
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
MikeSP 10/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Andy G
Andrew171 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with mike steele perkins
jordana86 06/Sep/15 2nd

Had a freak out on the traverse!!

Stickle Tarn 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The upper section moves through territory that doesn't look like it belongs on a VS! Although it's at the top end of the grade, there are plenty of positive holds moving through the overhang.

Hidden 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
r_o_b_h2 18/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Matt Harris
mattrm 15/Aug/15 Lead

Took the lob of the overhang again. Seem to have a bit of a mental block on it. Good to take a trad fall again however. Got the overhang on the second go.

with Nathan Williams
John Nuttall 12/Aug/15 Lead
with Sharon
martin c 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great hanging belay.

with Dave Thomas
David(20) 06/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
TimKnight 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 21/Jun/15 2nd
9fingerjon 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Win-yei 20/Jun/15 2nd
with Rob
Rob Morgan 20/Jun/15 Lead

Really enjoyable. Traversed a bit too far right and placed a cam which resulted in an unholy amount of drag after the crux.

with Win-yei
danieleaston 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led up to the overhang belay

with Jon
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
mdjb 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Radical-G 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 23/May/15 Lead
with C May
C May 23/May/15 2nd
with Tim
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd O/S
mapperley samurai 03/May/15 2nd
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead O/S
TimCul ?/May/15 Lead
with hlburns
hlburns ?/May/15 2nd
with Tim, mjc1010
Todders 19/Apr/15 2nd
smking 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with catherine Todd, Clare Gillbe
ClareG 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Pretty tough I thought. Amazing climb, found the traverse a bit scary.

DannyH001 15/Apr/15 2nd
mariannekhoo 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch. Really interesting climbing and pulling through the roof is fairly straightforward.

Alex Whittaker 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Marianne Khoo
nickstephens 03/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
darcan 03/Apr/15 AltLd
with nick
riff156 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kyle
john. e.r 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with rx
joe gallacher 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Paul lead first pitch (i thought this was harder than the second)...I didn't do the second with a lot of class but it's a wee bit overhyped . The route we did next to it (Hosis) is a very much more serious proposition and just no way I could lead it....HVS 5a...think it surely must be real good value at that grade

with Paul Griffiths
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Emily 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Fun climb! This was my favourite of the day.

with Nick
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
AndrewP 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Beware loose blocks in the lower groove (many with well used wire placements behind them!). Great route.

with Nigel Boanas
Nick Russell 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyed pulling the roof. Lots of good holds.

with Emily
Steve Woollard 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Jonathan Richardson 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
erkershaw 08/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
pheotleyr 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jess Mills 22/Jul/14 2nd
Andrew will wilson 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Lovely route Nice and steady.

Goofyfoot 05/Jul/14 Lead β

Superb climb, perfect conditions; fun moves underneath roof1

with Will Treasure
drysori 05/Jul/14 2nd
BFG 01/Jul/14 -
with Hazel Watchorn
LovelyMrTom 29/Jun/14 Lead
pimpy 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alexi
Ejminee 29/Jun/14 2nd
JClimb 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
evhall 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Jon's feet failed so belayed under overhang - so I did P2 - but have lead whole route before 2003 ish...

with Jon
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Si ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ChrisWills ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - really enjoyed the traverse

Keelan McNulty 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Helen Baldwin, Jon Hardman
HardmanJ 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
silviac 18/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Henry Brown 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Rhi Rhi 04/May/14 2nd β
with Matt
partz 04/May/14 Lead rpt
spearing05 04/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2 this time. Beautiful position except for the barking dogs on the beach below.

with Andrew
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet ?/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Rosa
tom jefferies ??/2014 AltLd O/S
with Richard Oneil
DaveFidler 08/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Gen
edjenkins 08/Dec/13 2nd

pulled a bloc off halfway up

Hidden 08/Dec/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd dnf
ChristyCole 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
mattrm 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
67hours 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
cpoad 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did it as two pitches but belay a bit cramped. One pitch better

with Clare F
Ramblin dave 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing! Classic case of a VS through E3 territory. If anything the groove to the belay felt trickier than the gymnastics higher up.

with Barak
Dan0Me 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with James S
James S 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with dan
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Abrockalypse 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead
beakerburgess 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch Zeanne leed the first

Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
RossT 14/Jun/13 Lead
with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Ellis20 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with James91
tskelhon 18/May/13 2nd O/S
clmacdonald 18/May/13 Lead
HarrySouch 06/May/13 Lead dnf

The Crux of the climb Is near the end where there is a overhang with no foot holds

with Osian Llyr Lewis
CurlyStevo ?/May/13 Lead
beakerburgess 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Zara
Zara_92 19/Apr/13 2nd dog
ross brinson 14/Mar/13 AltLd
with Ben Biscoe
Hidden 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Tom Keaveny 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
David Maddison 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Alex Cole 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Huw Mithan 02/Feb/13 Lead
with Jonathan Parton, Miguel Pinto
steve-grigg 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Leo
JonParton 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Lovely route, Traverse with no footholds a good little rush!

leo-z-g 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Imogen
leeoftroy ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/13 Lead
haz rudry ??/2013 AltLd
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 Lead

nice, not as polished as the yat though. wife had a melt down and left my sling at the roof. bit of crag booty for the next teamn grhhhhh

JenDurden 10/Nov/12 AltLd

Gramps led the first pitch. It started to thrash with rain/snow as I started the traverse, so retreated and abseiled off the thread.

with Gramps
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
dja 04/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
tim.fairhall 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Matt
jon clayton 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 30/Aug/12 Lead
with Clare
UnkArl 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Cracking route. Climbed as a single pitch. Couple of tricky sections on the way up to the roof and the traverse under the roof is a little awkward as there aren't really any footholds, the in-situ gear is helpful. Almost traversed too far right as it's not too obvious to spot where to go up once you're there. Pull over the roof was reasonably straightforward.

with Matt
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Bryan M ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with Mat Downes
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
stuart34 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Naomi Dods
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jordan taylor 02/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Leo Woodhead 02/Jun/12 -
joem 30/May/12 Lead O/S

good climb, pretty intimidating in places

Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
Webster 26/May/12 Lead O/S

brilliant, fully deserving of its reputation. easy if you like exposure, intimidating if you dont...

timstyles 19/May/12 2nd β
with Huw Howells
jon bradley 19/May/12 Lead β
with Brian Vaughan, Mayur Patel
steveprice.exmouth 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

led to overhang. Wonderful route

with Pete Guy
BFG 05/May/12 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo ?/May/12 Lead

Very nice route, lots of VS level climbing and good protection.

with Kevin
jon_gill1 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

a very tough VS,under the roof was quite nerve racking at that grade and the footholds that were there were very polished making it hard to commit to the moves!Also about a 3rd of the way up there is a very lose block which is very polished so i think part of the route is going to come off,it is still possible to climb avoiding the block!

with chris Lyness
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd dog
Rhydian Evans 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JonnyW 29/Feb/12 2nd
partz 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing!

captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2012 -


Hidden ??/2012 2nd
tavarua 03/Dec/11 2nd O/S

Cold, windy and damp

with Julian
Julian Prieto 03/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Matt Burke
Monkey_Alan 03/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Very polished on the traverse, but good climbing.

Hidden 23/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
JamieGreig 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jamie Nobbs 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
spearing05 14/Nov/11 AltLd

First ever hanging belay.

with Andrew
IanGilbertJones 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Richard Garnett
Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Voltemands 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

This ones all in the feet. I absolutley hated the traverse at the top. You couldn't ask for better protection from the insitu thread but there is nothing, absolutely nout for your feet. The juggy/sloped ledge to hold is as polished as they come, Mr Muscle couldn't have done a better job using Mr Sheens best. It probably didn't help that I'd just pumped out on removing some stubborn gear, but it probably wouldn't have felt much better if I was 100%. Good job I have a patient belayer!

rhiannonjones27 02/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Toughest one so far, traverse was good. Exhilarating.

pete3685 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
cbeard 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren Baxter
mattrm 01/Sep/11 Lead dog

Took a fall off the overhand (again). Lowered off, rested and then climbed back up to the top and managed to do the overhang clean. Darren couldn't second it so then had to do lots of faffing with abseils to retrieve gear.

Run_Ross_Run 01/Sep/11 2nd dnf
James Oswald ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Really good, a good but long lead from Sam. His first VS and new to leading. Awesome for VS.

panda70 ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rick Ashton 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Fiona Dalton
luke glaister 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

My second sea cliff climb and made it look easy! Don't no how cause around the corner on eden I shat myself! Every think just happened for me so easy, that if I did it now I would never be as calm or smooth. Just wish that's how I felt on every lead!! A great climb. ***

casey johns 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd
btc 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

ran as 1 pitch

with Vik
OERees 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

L.P Trad VS 4c A brilliant route, plenty of places to place gear and mega exposure, without a doubt worthy of three stars!

The Ivanator 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good climbing, looks intimidating, but actually not too stiff.

with Jez
jezb1 16/Aug/11 2nd

As one pitch. Good, but not 3 stars for me.

Danny Crump 14/Aug/11 Lead
Fatboy1000 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Me on P1 Chris on P2. Good gear, good holds. Sweet.

with Chris
chriscarroll 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. The traverse was very short lived and its fine pulling up over the roof, always on good holds...

with Ben
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd
simoncov 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I lead to the roof, hanging belay, and James led the final pitch. I felt the first pitch was both bolder and more technical. The traverse is very atmospheric and the pull over the overlap is pleasant.

with James
jamespilgrim 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P1 is slightly harder.

with Simon
kim.mulji 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
rd20 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Kim
Gareth T 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
philhilo 25/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Good steady lead from Helen. Cold drizzly day

with Helen E
TomGB 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Graham Perry
josh1905 ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with eliot stephens
konna 02/May/11 2nd O/S

Did in it in two pitchs

John Roe 02/May/11 Lead

Split it into two pitches

Hidden 02/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
maybe_si 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mattshort 12/Mar/11 2nd
with Sam (Paramedic), Dave West
Sam1991 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Me P1 Dave P2, first pitch lovely climbing, second pitch anticlimax but still really nice

with Dave W and Matt S
Dave89 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
stuaart 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S
thomasaneurinsmith 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S


with Stuart Reeves
s.c.white 19/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
pasbury ??/2011 -
MHutch ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
will ??/2011 Lead O/S
mschmude ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
EliotStephens 30/Dec/10 Lead O/S

What an amazing route! exposed, great moves, great area, classic!!

with Thomas Moore
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Tam Bardell
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Charlie O'Reilly 20/Sep/10 2nd
cas smerdon 12/Sep/10 2nd
with Tom Wright
mikeshewring 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
mattrm 11/Sep/10 Lead dog

Took a big whipper on this, ended up halfway down Seth. Couldn't climb back up to finish it off, so lowered off and my second led the route. Thankfully he found the final move hard, so feel ok with the fall. Was a good safe fall to take. Happy I did it and it all worked well. Great climb, but it's high in the grade. Great gear, moves and climbing. If there was an option to give it 4 stars, I would!

Mark Kemball 11/Sep/10 Lead

A good climb, but not quite the 3* it's given in the guide - I found the pull through the roof rather hard,making the route feel a little uneven.

johnnyboulton 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Simon Hills
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/10 2nd β
wildrover220 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
GraMc 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with laura, emily roo
SianR 27/Jul/10 AltLd

Kat did 1st pitch and I led traverse and overhang....2 things I don't usually enjoy, but this was fun!

with Kat
Hidden 27/Jul/10 AltLd
arifgul 25/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Matthew Moore
Hmgslade ?/Jul/10 -
with Jack
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
bonelessivar ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tdudley 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
adrianjenner 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jess Christley 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
jon clayton 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ben
scoot 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Steve33
SteveK 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Scott
minda_kat 20/Jun/10 2nd

lots of swearing on the traverse

with Steve Hill, Steve Hill
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Steve Hill 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
d_meacher 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Viki 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
petecallaghan 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

great route, good traverse

with Steph
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
DKaye 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant. A bit off-route to start with, but got back to the jugs and loved the whole thing.

with dunnyg
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead
Rob Exile Ward 22/May/10 Lead

I think I missed the main point of the climb, traversed too far right! So did the next party, mind...

with Sam Ward
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
muttley_109 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewis, Steven Delaney
Dan Lane 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. there is a very old wooden wedge in the roof, back it up!

Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Barry Kerslake 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Cooper
porridgefan 21/Feb/10 Lead rpt
with Mike Wilson
Cat Hendrie ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
hoyle118 13/Dec/09 2nd
with AMC Club trip
porridgefan 13/Dec/09 Lead rpt
with Tom Hoyle
owain86 ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Max
matt.woodfield 21/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet 26/Sep/09 -
Chris Hannaby 24/Sep/09 Lead dnf
with Nat Elliot-Green
lost.arrow 21/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
porridgefan 29/Aug/09 Solo


csalvage 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Bryan
kleinej 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Patrick
garywong 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
GarethHall 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 08/Aug/09 -
with Ali
josephjones 02/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

carpy lead the first pitch. i did my first multi pitch lead. i lead the traverse at the top

Lauren Davies 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Abi
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
3 Names 31/Jul/09 2nd
dbm 25/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Reached overhang then abseiled off (Tom would have continued). Tired and intimidated by the traverse :(

with Tom P
josephjones 16/Jul/09 2nd O/S

did this in the rain. traverse was fairly easy but getting out the top in the wet was....interesting

joeurwin 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Exciting lead. Highly recommended for traverse and pull over overhang near the top.

with alex
AlexD 28/Jun/09 2nd
Steve Hill 24/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Mark Winder
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 13/Jun/09 2nd
Greg Jones 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S

This route was really talked up as scary. The traverse is exposed but posative, would be allot easyer had somone not wedged a big wooden stake with tat on it halfway along.

with eclipse
eclipse 08/Jun/09 2nd β
grumpyoldjanner 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Done in two pitches, led both.

with CUMC
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with lex
brady 10/May/09 Lead β

climbed in one pitch, a superb route

with Micky
mickyconnor 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with steve
Lev 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/09 2nd
Danhan 13/Apr/09 Lead

Lead the second pitch (traverse)

with Nick
dave1 11/Apr/09 Lead

Led this before? Certainly seconded. Not too difficult. No use of wedge or tat.

with Alan Clouth
Andy White 29/Mar/09 2nd
Jim Slater 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Led in one pitch this time.

Hidden 24/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Steve Hill 14/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Did it in 1 pitch. The roof is just as intimidating as I remember it. Need to pay attention when traversing so you don't miss the exit.

with Will Jones, EeFu Thong
tweedcore 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Becca J
R_W_M 21/Feb/09 2nd
with Gareth
Protheroe 21/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Rob and Laurence Owen
jh5638 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Elie
Lizzy Andrew 14/Feb/09 2nd
with Herve
hervenuttall ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S

awesome. did it in one pitch, a lot of rope drag though

with Lizzy
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
summo ??/2009 -
cymjt ??/2009 -
Tim W 27/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Sian Crosweller
maria85 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led the traverse

with Stef
sdi 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Maria
keithpeck ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

...communication problems on the second pitch led to some troubles.

Ewan Richards 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Conor
Steve Hill 23/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Lead from about half way up until the roof. Then wimped out and downclimbed. :(

with Mark Winder
sara n 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with John Brooks
tobydunford 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
James B 29/Jun/08 Lead
with Rob
Rob Oram 28/Jun/08 2nd dog

Had a dnagle after the hand traverse...arms to feeble to make the pull over the overhang!

with James Booth
thelittlejo 07/Jun/08 2nd β
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/08 Lead
with Shiv
Jim Walton 24/May/08 -
with Bex
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead rpt
Jonny M 23/May/08 2nd O/S
stevepotter 18/May/08 Lead
with steve taylor
Nigel R Lewis 17/May/08 Lead
with Chris Wyatt
Hidden 17/May/08 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 17/May/08 Lead rpt
with Nigel Lewis
sgl 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Susie
BicepAndrews 02/May/08 AltLd

I lead the first pitch this time, was awesome.

green_bhind_da_ears 02/May/08 AltLd β
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd O/S
deklan ?/May/08 Lead
with sami davies
tdudley 19/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

I climbed first pitch, James climbed second, had hanging belay in middle

BicepAndrews 16/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
porridgefan 11/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Gareth Borthwick
gareth scott borthwick 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Harriet Brewster
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd
porridgefan 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Heddwyn Fletcher
Cardi 22/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Still as good as the first time, must do the direct finish next time

with Rhys
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Eccentric ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Peers
gripped01 ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Stu Quinn
Abi Chard ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kay, Ian
Parkie ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Storming route

with Bob
wilchivs 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Amazing, brilliant climb!!

Mark Walter 16/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Cardi 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Aled D
Chris Sansum 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Very nice route! Crux is the traverse along the overhang (as shown on the picture on the front cover of the guidebook), rather than pulling over the overhang itself. More than a little intimidating, in view of the lack of footholds! There are a few bits of tat hanging down to tempt you in to abbing off before the traverse. Felt like the upper end of VS (as opposed to the other climbs at Gower which we did which felt overgraded). Definitely worth the 3 stars.

with Weilin Wang
Clarky10 14/Apr/07 AltLd
with Ben Seddon Harvey
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd rpt
rd20 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Martin (Scotland), Keith
K Wall 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Barnsley Robert, Martin
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Protheroe 06/Apr/07 2nd
with Dave Radley + Aled Davies
Bristoldave 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Protheroe & Aled
jscoles 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Baker
sdht ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jill
jonnyboy 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
tomB 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
robman 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

ecowaller 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
gdb4060 ?/Mar/07 Lead
with Pete
Bargate_Champ 11/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 10/Feb/07 Lead
Andrew1 03/Feb/07 Lead
with Andy Lewington
jcj ??/2007 -
jcj ??/2007 -
Harriet Stewart ??/2007 2nd
with Karl
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Ollie B ??/2007 Lead
with G.Lewis
Karlos ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Harriet
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
gareth r 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Martin S
CJE 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ines Clergue
brady 25/Jun/06 2nd

botched finish,needs to be done again

with Martin Palmer
Hidden 17/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead rpt
c_s_hawkins 07/Jun/06 Lead β

Brilliant climb! its a must must must do!

with Chris D
Hidden 05/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Sarah Bough 04/Jun/06 2nd
with Oliver Mentz
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd O/S
featuresforfeet 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/06 2nd
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/06 2nd rpt
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/06 2nd
benjih2o ??/2006 Lead O/S

loved it

with daniel bean
Si Clapham ??/2006 -
Dan_Carroll ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jim Slater ??/2006 AltLd O/S

Set up hanging belay under the overhang, chilled out and took in the view. Fantastic route.

with Russ Riseborough, Christos Gauci
Si Clapham ??/2006 Lead
with JC
JWB ??/2006 Lead O/S
Si dH 12/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 21/Aug/05 Lead
matt.woodfield 04/Aug/05 Lead
DKaye ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with John Beardmore
Hedley 25/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Reuben
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
caradoc 28/May/05 2nd O/S
with Nic Richards
crossdressingrodney 09/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with gwilym
Hidden 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
BDoc ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jesse Dufton ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/04 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
fellgazelle 09/May/04 2nd
charlesmfrench 09/May/04 Lead O/S
with Ian _Haigh
Hidden ?/May/04 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Tim W 22/Feb/04 Lead O/S
greedo ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
drysori ??/2003 -
clams ??/2003 Lead O/S
with AD
waltersp ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 02/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 03/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell ?/Aug/02 2nd rpt
with Rich
Hidden 07/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/02 2nd
sims 26/Dec/01 2nd O/S
with Nick
Will Gordon ?/Aug/01 Lead rpt
with Rob Gleeson
Will Gordon ?/May/01 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Steve Merchant
Hidden ??/2001 -
Simon Caldwell ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with Mike
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/00 2nd
with Debbie Wilkinson
Jon Evans 04/Mar/00 -


with Nick
VPJB ??/2000 -
shoulders 07/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/99 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/99 Lead O/S
iskra2000 10/Jul/99 Lead

Worth 3*

with Paul Harvey
lost.arrow 04/Jul/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Hidden 03/Jul/99 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/May/99 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Derek Rennie
babymoac 14/Jun/98 Lead
RobSimmo 27/May/98 Lead O/S
kato'sdad 27/May/98 2nd
philhilo ??/1998 Lead rpt
with caroline ?, james blunt
Mattilda ??/1998 Lead
dickypips ??/1998 2nd O/S
with john richards
Laramadness 19/Oct/97 2nd
Scott McRae ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Steve Culverhouse
five ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with CH
roncaves 06/Apr/97 AltLd
with Gavin Williams
jim_randell 15/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with PS
Elastic Jones 06/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with Jamie Tucker
timreynolds 13/Jul/96 Lead
with John Burnip
The Reaper 25/May/96 Lead O/S
mikej 06/Apr/96 Lead
with Nick Salmon
Si Clapham ??/1996 Lead
with JC
gingernick ??/1996 Lead
with Adrian
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Sep/95 2nd
with Jason M
colin milton 09/Jul/95 2nd
with eric milton
Hidden 04/Jun/95 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/95 -
Hidden 31/Mar/95 Lead O/S
gingernick ??/1995 Lead
with Dave,Luke Matthews
Adrian Eggleton ?/Oct/94 2nd
with jim whitford
Didymus 17/Sep/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/94 Lead
Dave Turnbull 02/Jun/94 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
Hidden ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/May/93 AltLd
with Debbie Wilkinson
Rog Wilko ?/May/93 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
goi.ashmore 31/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ceri Jones
Martin Bennett 30/Mar/91 -
with MT
GordonHart ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Clare Hart
sims 04/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead
John Roe ?/Jul/89 2nd
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?/Jul/89 Lead
with John Roe
RichardMc 15/May/88 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Jules Lane ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S

Along with Scavenger, may favourite climb of all time. Relatively easy overhangs 200 feet above the sea are not common !

with paul
Tony Buckley ?/May/87 AltLd
with Richard Brockman
RichardMc 09/Aug/86 2nd
with Daphne Pritchard
tapley 22/Sep/85 2nd
with John Sumner
sniffer ??/1985 Lead
with Paul Bruten, Paul Thomas
ill_bill ??/1984 Lead
Steve Lewis ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/78 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 19/Jun/70 Lead
with Mike Danford
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 93
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 92
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set