Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) VS 4c, 10m. Start as for The Heidelberg Creature, or better from The Cheshire Cat. Climb The Heidelberg Creature for 10m and belay to avoid rope drag.
2) E1 5a, 8m. Traverse right under the roof to reach a spike (on the The Tool) at the far end.
3) E2 5b, 12m. Step down (leaving a sling on the spike to protect the second) and follow the rising underclings to reach an alcove and an easy traverse on to Tatra. Belay on the right at the large crack on the good foot ledge. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined if carrying 2 sets of 0.3 to 2.5 inch cams.
4) VS 4b, 6m. As for Tatra. Up the crack; wrap a sling around the jug; hand traverse right on good footholds to step up at the arête.
5) VS 5a, 22m. As for Tatra. Climb the large corner above. Large cams needed.
FA. David Coley, Stuart Fox 25/Jan/2014.
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Ixtlan
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cave Hole)