134m, 7 pitches.
An extended version of the The Adventures of Portland Bill that allows the route to be climbed when the sea is covering the boulders. Can be combined with The Cheshire Cat and The Caterpillar to give a 12 pitch traverse from Finale Groove almost to Ximenes. If the sea is calm access the Boulder Ruckle via the Marmolata Buttress abseil to the boulder beach; in rougher seas abseil south from the Marmolata abseil stakes down the top pitch of Tatra to its last belay.
1) E3 5c, 20m. Optional and harder than the rest of the route. Start as for Marmolata Buttress pitch 1. Climb up just right of the arête then climb a thin crack to a ledge on the seaward face. Swing right around the arête and climb a groove to the main fault-line, step left to belay on the last stance of Tatra.
2) HS 4a, 15m. Traverse right along the main fault-line to cross the big corner. Climb up and right across the slab to meet Director's Groove. Belay.
3) HVS 4c, 30m. Good rope work and plenty of 60cm and 120cm draws required. Descend the groove below the belay for 8m (leaving plenty of runners to protect the second) to meet the obvious hand-traverse line. Follow this to meet the groove of Lightning Wall. Step down 3m to a comfortable belay.
4) E2 5b, 20m. Step right around the arête and cross the corner to climb back up to re-join the hand traverse line which is followed to a belay at a step-down and ledge (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
5) E2 5b, 17m. Continue along the hand traverse to a spike belay on Acapulco (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
6) E2 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the fault-line and step right to belay (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
7) E2 5b, 22m. White Dwarf: climb the flakes on the right, step right, and climb the wall above.
1) E3 5c, 20m. Optional and harder than the rest of the route. Start as for Marmolata Buttress pitch 1. Climb up just right of the arête then climb a thin crack to a ledge on the seaward face. Swing right around the arête and climb a groove to the main fault-line, step left to belay on the last stance of Tatra.
2) HS 4a, 15m. Traverse right along the main fault-line to cross the big corner. Climb up and right across the slab to meet Director's Groove. Belay.
3) HVS 4c, 30m. Good rope work and plenty of 60cm and 120cm draws required. Descend the groove below the belay for 8m (leaving plenty of runners to protect the second) to meet the obvious hand-traverse line. Follow this to meet the groove of Lightning Wall. Step down 3m to a comfortable belay.
4) E2 5b, 20m. Step right around the arête and cross the corner to climb back up to re-join the hand traverse line which is followed to a belay at a step-down and ledge (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
5) E2 5b, 17m. Continue along the hand traverse to a spike belay on Acapulco (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
6) E2 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the fault-line and step right to belay (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
7) E2 5b, 22m. White Dwarf: climb the flakes on the right, step right, and climb the wall above.
FA. David Coley, Pete Callaghan 02/Feb/2014.
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Route of Interest
Buccaneer
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)