Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) HVS 4b, 20m. Start as for Finale Groove. Climb the groove for 10m to a chockstone. Traverse right for 5m to meet the roof. Traverse under this stepping down 3m before the arête to belay on the arête.
2) HVS 4c, 17m. Climb the corner on the right for 2m and drop down right under the roof. Traverse right in a spectacular position for 10m and swing around the arête. Climb the easy corner to the main fault line.
3) HVS 4b, 30m. Traverse easily right along the fault for 10m to reach the next arête. Climb the finger crack above and finish up the solid left-facing corner above (as for The Heidelberg Creature). Exit on the right.
FA. David Coley, Stuart Fox 11/Jan/2014.
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100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes
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David's Metraverse
Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)