2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4a, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4a, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across the newly cleaned slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top, ace route. Don’t worry about blocks on top pitch these are no worse than any others here!

A J J Moula, D Thomas 08/Mar/1952

Ticklists: "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

manbat 25/Sep/17 2nd O/S

MIA training

wi11 06/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Louisa Reynolds
Rob Davies 25/Jul/17 AltLd

Rope jammed in crack on P2. P3 seemed quite stiff, but I won't layback. VS -, 4a, 4c.

with Phil Ashton
webby2203 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
jandyd05 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

No way this is 4a! Last 2 pitches get 4c in the Tremadog guide book

Pinguville 12/Jul/17 AltLd rpt

p2 to get to sting , nice climbing on great holds

with George
George_Surf 12/Jul/17 AltLd rpt

Me p1 charlie p2. To get to the sting

Matthoop91 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
iWoody5025 16/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/17 2nd
griff5800 05/May/17 Lead O/S
with Richard Dunn
fweatherall1 04/May/17 AltLd
James corfe ?/May/17 -
Hidden ?/May/17 Lead
TCarrick 21/Apr/17 Lead
Keiran O'Mahony 21/Apr/17 AltLd
with Tom, Raj
Hidden 04/Apr/17 AltLd
Tim Francis 03/Apr/17 -
tom0129 05/Feb/17 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
MarcinK 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Teaching novice

with Other
Hidden 24/Sep/16 AltLd
Howard J 24/Sep/16 AltLd

We started up the slab, which the CC guide calls the varation start, and also gives it VS 4c which seems fair. A great climb

with Henry Tindell
pftom 19/Sep/16 2nd O/S
gavster 18/Sep/16 AltLd
with rob
Rob Royle 18/Sep/16 AltLd
with Gav
George Killaspy 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Still a great route

with Martina, Darren
Pinguville 25/Aug/16 AltLd

led p2 the only pitch id not climbed before , all in all a pleasant route nothing to worry about , 4a , 4b , 4c (only one hard move up the final crack , still HS in my opinion )

rachelpearce01 25/Aug/16 AltLd
GaborS 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Another first for me. This was my first HS and what a great climb. Again, Ian led most of the pitches with Jim chipping in on one pitch. I was happy to build the anchor at the top - once Ian had already led it and was at the top - and bring Jim up. A long abseil was the cherry on the cake. Cheers guys!!!

with Jim, Ian Davidson
Dorte Bjerre Steensgaard 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Very fun and varied climbing. A bat was got very interested in me on the upper section.

with Nick E.
Hidden 02/Aug/16 -
Different Steve 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Clare
Joel Miller 14/May/16 2nd
with Will, Greg Joyner
neilh 30/Apr/16 -
slab_happy 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Not sure if we did the variation start.

with Julie
Hidden 26/Apr/16 Lead
dan-8990 22/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with HG
cindylmy 17/Apr/16 AltLd
TomatoPro 17/Apr/16 AltLd

NOT HS 4a, a great route (as in, the route of the route itself) with interesting climbing and great location. Lead first two pitches, leading beginner climber, thinking it was all 4a! 1st pitch 4a, 2nd pitch 4b, then Cindy accidentally lead her 1st VS 4c on last pitch with some interesting moves (feet-before-hands laybacking)!

with Cindy
simeclimb68 20/Mar/16 Solo rpt
lpruul 24/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Emily Groves
emgroves ?/Feb/16 AltLd
rachelpearce01 ??/2016 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1 and 3. Nice bit of laybacking on last pitch. Nothing to hard. There was a bat in the crack towards the top!

Hidden ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 -
louisr23 ??/2016 AltLd O/S
leopolian 11/Oct/15 2nd β
Eloise_SW 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st & 3rd pitch (and the last bit of the 2nd pitch)

Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead
Naomi.P 11/Oct/15 AltLd
with Leo H
LittleyB 11/Oct/15 2nd
Robin Montaigne 15/Sep/15 2nd

PyB course.

with Ian (PyB)
ads 08/Aug/15 Lead
with Julie
Louis Hume 20/Jul/15 Lead
with Rachael, Jenny
Jenny Hall 20/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Rach, Louis
mattlyons 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
James Lowe 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 20/Jun/15 Lead
with Sharon
adamre12 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

We cleaned the route on lead, mainly p1. Really good route but tech grades are more like 3c,4a,4b. Worthwhile

adamre12 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

We cleaned the route on lead, mainly p1. Really good route but tech grades are more like 3c,4a,4b. Worthwhile

Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
Joshthomas 10/May/15 AltLd rpt
iwanap 05/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd
Keiran O'Mahony 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Second and third pitch

with Kit
bwestwood 26/Mar/15 2nd
pie_eater_pete 26/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 19/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Alastair Brookes 19/Jan/15 2nd O/S

very nice first ever multipitch

Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Darron ??/2015 -
Hidden 14/Oct/14 AltLd
Pete_Frost 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Kelly led P2 - her first lead on a VS. Jeannie led P4. P1 is easier if you don't climb the crack!

with Jeannie Sherwood, Kelly Duffy
Hidden 13/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
carl_123 01/Sep/14 2nd
jeremyftaylor 13/Aug/14 2nd

Finished up merlin direct

Hidden 30/Jul/14 -
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
AndyMcCoy 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Tony Bird
Joshthomas 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ema 06/Jun/14 AltLd
George_Surf 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Climbed inbetween rain showers, rained before/on every pitch! Very easy to the Merlin stance, nice travers tehn well protected and steep above. The last corner is a bit of a battle

with Carloline Evans
Hidden 24/May/14 AltLd
George Killaspy 24/May/14 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
ianstevens 17/May/14 AltLd

Lead P1, 3, and 4. The last two pitches make up for the average quality of the start, although the use of a trowel and patio hook has improved it significantly.

scout 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Climbing and cleaning at TremFest 2014

Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd
davebrox ??/2014 -
ashtond6 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

P1 access to merlin

alp79 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S

P1 in wet to get to merlin direct.

Hidden 24/Oct/13 2nd
michael burrows 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/13 2nd
Darron 06/Oct/13 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd
Louis Hume 05/Oct/13 AltLd

Mucking about practicing MIA rescues

with Sarah
Hidden 02/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 02/Sep/13 Lead
with Fred, Oli
ads 18/Aug/13 AltLd


Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Zoomer 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Excellent route after two poor starting pitches. Superb varied climbing.

with A Student
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
ashsleight 12/May/13 Lead O/S

Thought this was a nice route, especially the last 2 pitches.

lithos 06/May/13 -

P1 + P3, Gav P2. P1 is diff but fun, P2 short and sweet, P3 good fun. Good gear and only 1 toughish move in the crack

with Gav, oddtoast
oddtoast 05/May/13 2nd

Brilliant moves, much enjoyed, definite stars

with Gav, lithos
tomjemmett 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

DW2 P1&4, Me P2, Alex P3. Lovely route, P3 has some very interesting moves!

with Alex Wellings, DW2
Ray Sparks 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
with pete ranstead
Simon Caldwell 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Variation start. I led the slab pitch, and the traverse pitch (which was more like 4a than 4c). C led the final corner - excellent stuff with a tricky move at half height.

with Carmen
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd O/S
christoph owen 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

did as 3 pitch. me p1 + 3. p1 more of a scrambel but pitch 2 + 3 are great, deserves 2 *

with gethin
kristinawe 19/Sep/12 2nd
Steve Woollard 22/Aug/12 Lead
with John Cooke, Paul Warnock
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 14/Jul/12 Solo rpt
carl_123 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
stvredmond 25/Jun/12 AltLd

led p1,2 4 and belayed on the tree below the slab near the corner of the 3rd pitch. the description distances in the new tremadog guide seem way off for the first pitch

Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
ali macphee 20/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 08/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
joeym 05/May/12 Lead O/S
popov86 09/Apr/12 AltLd
roberts1234567890 07/Apr/12 -
simonvand 07/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
ladymuck 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S

PYB course

Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
ads 07/Aug/11 AltLd

Very good route, well protected.

crispycodd 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

P1 only to access Merlin Direct Finish

SAF 14/Jul/11 AltLd

Led pitch 1 variation, led first bit of pitch 2 and chickened out on leading the crack up to the finish. definately mor a VS

with ben
hedgehog77 13/Jun/11 AltLd

MIA TRG Climbing wet.

djmarko75 ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Did on MIA Training.

mikehenesy 30/May/11 AltLd O/S

With Tim and young Adam the outdoor novice. Only his third route VS! Well done!! Led third pitch, pretty nice. Second pitch lovely but not too difficult moves.

with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 28/May/11 AltLd
vinspin 28/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with ritchie
ritchierich 28/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

VS this one at about 4b for last 2 pitches.

with Vinny
Hidden 16/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
dan-8990 12/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with SD
Hidden 12/Oct/10 AltLd
HeatherF 12/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

1st and last pitches

with Bea
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead
Andy Clarke 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fine climbing in a nice position on the upper pitches, deserving the VS it gets in the new guide. Led P2 & 4.

with Alex
simon geering 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with James, Toby
Sleeping Cat 09/Jun/10 Lead
with Andy
Hidden 09/Jun/10 2nd O/S
SamuelHarris 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Debs Smith
popov86 ?/May/10 -
popov86 ?/May/10 Lead
adam06 24/Apr/10 AltLd

trem fest cleaning. also soloed first pitch. 2nd pitch is good, deserves vs and 2 stars

cosreba 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Cleaned at Festival, first pitch solo then lead second.

gejones 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Iwan's first trad multi-pitch.

with Iwan, Roly
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
sdrawkcabeoj 04/Oct/09 2nd
with Sunil Manchanda, Ken Priest
muttley_109 ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead
alexrankine30 27/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
gary.barr 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
gingergeorge ??/2009 Lead
rob1 13/Sep/08 AltLd
with Alex Wellings
colina ??/2008 -
Keith Jones 23/Oct/07 AltLd

first pitch,then merlin.

with ali, David
ewen 27/Aug/07 -
with mike/steve
tonymw 29/May/07 2nd

Apart from the start which is a bit messy a really nice climb owing to it being cleaned up by the BMC festival.

with Gary Smith
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd
climbinmunkey ?/May/07 2nd β
with Helen
mike278 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Jenny and Gareth
Batty 24/Mar/07 AltLd

clean route along the way.

chris warner 17/May/06 AltLd

first two pitches, before going onto merlin

with matt walker
Hidden ??/2006 -
PWEI_fan ??/2006 -
Rich A-Wilkes ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

I took the second pitch as my first proper lead.

with Timur
babymoac ?/Feb/04 -
djdavies 27/Apr/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Kerm ?/Sep/01 AltLd
chrishedgehog 11/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
Mark Stevenson 12/Feb/00 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 24/Apr/99 2nd
with Mark Hedge
Hidden 08/Mar/98 AltLd O/S
iskra2000 13/Sep/97 AltLd

Beginner's meet

with Richard Jeffcoate
Ian Archer 22/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
with Danny Hale
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
pgac 10/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with danny batson
sdht ??/1996 -
nai ??/1995 AltLd
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 27/Apr/85 -
with MT, Freewheelin' Franklin
Melok ??/1985 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Dec/83 Lead
with Brent Craig
leland stamper ?/Oct/80 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
telemark ??/1978 AltLd
with Len Marlowe
Hidden 27/Jun/65 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/65 Lead O/S
kjacks ??/1964 2nd

Done before the rock fall with a sling for aid (as guide book description - HS).

with Dave Peers
uphillnow ??/1963 -
16 users have this on their wishlist
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 32
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set