Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4b, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4c, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across the newly cleaned slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top.
A J J Moula, D Thomas 08/Mar/1952.
Ticklists
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes , British Rock Tour April '24
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| locksbury | 6 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Rainy Day Women
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Y Castell)