145m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning adventure up the wall. Start below and to the left of The Razor's Edge terrace, which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right-hand side, below and slightly right of the striking crack/groove of Hamadryad.
1) 6b, 30m. Start at the foot of a blocky groove. Ascend this until it is possible to step right from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging groove. Enjoyable climbing leads up this. At the top of the groove, step left to gain the start of a blunt rib. Step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, and continue up the rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle.
2) 6c, 35m. Climb up the pinnacle, where a steep step up and a pull gain the large slab. Trend up leftwards across the slab - at 3/4 height the climbing becomes testing. Continue up the steepening slab to gain the left arete, before stepping back right to gain the sloping belay ledge above.
3) 6c, 25m. Traverse airily right to the large rib. Continue upwards to a wide groove. Head up until it is possible to move out towards the continuation of the rib. Insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to a belay at a small ledge.
4) 6a+, 15m. A hard steep start on blocky holds soon eases. Keep a look out for the two hidden bolts on the right. A sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure gets to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle.
5) 6c, 15m. Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy-angled slab. Continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought-provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove. Continue up the easy-angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove.
6) 6b, 20m. A steep start soon leads to a short finger-crack in the corner. A confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
145m, 6 pitches. THE THIRD LONGEST SPORT ROUTE IN THE UK - 145m F6b,6c,6c,6a+,6c,6b Approach from the Twll Mawr access tunnel. From the boulders at the end of the level carefully head diagonally down the scree slope past some larger blocks sticking out of the scree. The route starts below and to the left of ‘The Razors Edge’ terrace which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right hand side. Pitch 1 6b 30m Start at the foot of a blocky groove, ascend the wide groove until it is possible to step rightwards from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging narrow groove; some cool moves lead to the top of the groove, step left to gain the start of a blunt rib. A delicate step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, continue pleasantly up the balancey stepped rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle. 14 bolts. Pitch 2 6c 35m Climb to the top of the pinnacle from where a steep step up and pull gains the start of the large slab. Continue up trending leftwards across the slab, at about ¾ height the climbing becomes more delicate and insecure. Continue up the steepening slab until the left arête can be gained before stepping back right by the top bolt to gain the sloping belay ledge above. 13 bolts. Pitch 3 6c 25m Traverse airily rightwards to gain the base of the large rib, continue upwards with some insecure moves to a wide groove. Climb up until it is possible to make a couple of wild and precarious moves out towards the continuation of the rib. Teasingly insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to the belay at a small ledge at the base of a steeper wall, an excellent pitch. 9 bolts. Pitch 4 6a+ 20m Exit the belay ledge with some steep pulls on blocky holds, hard to start but soon easing. Keep a look out for the last two hidden bolts on the right, a sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure’s getting to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle. 6 bolts. Pitch 5 6c 15m Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy angled slab, continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove, continue up the easy angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove. 6 bolts. Pitch 6 6b 20m A steep start soon leads to a short finger jamming crack in the corner, a confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. Don’t rush the final moves. Bolt belay above the sloping ledge. 6 bolts. Walk off.
Note: Each belay is equipped with stainless rings so that an abseil retreat is possible at the end of each pitch if the weather gets bad or if a retreat is required for any other reason.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 11) 25/Apr/2014

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+, Slate Sport, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Wales Ticklist, Sl@teheads Sl@te, Epic Rock Europe

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
jld579 15 Jun Lead O/S
geoff b 24 May AltLd rpt An introduction to Ian's 'new' sports routes in Twll Mawr for The Forrest: he was impressed. Absolutely 3 star route.
with The Forrest
An introduction to Ian's 'new' sports routes in Twll Mawr for The Forrest: he was impressed. Absolutely 3 star route.
with The Forrest
GPN 16 May AltLd O/S Fantastic route, particularly the second pitch. Easily worth three stars!
with Taku
Fantastic route, particularly the second pitch. Easily worth three stars!
with Taku
will_of_fortune 20 Apr AltLd dog Lead pitches 1, 3, & 5. Made it to the top of the final pitch before falling after moving without thinking. One to come back for I guess.
with Abi
Lead pitches 1, 3, & 5. Made it to the top of the final pitch before falling after moving without thinking. One to come back for I guess.
with Abi
hfotheri 24 Nov, 2018 AltLd dog
with sge
with sge
peter.herd 9 Oct, 2018 AltLd 6c pitches
with A Kay
6c pitches
with A Kay
Mike505 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2 & P3 as one big pitch on 60m half ropes about 10m rope to spare, made for a proper adventure! Then got P5. Slipped at the start of P1 due to trying to carry the pack but am going to claim the onsight as it was so close to the ground (halled it up the 6c pitches). Has to be a three star line, solid rock, well bolted and brilliant positions.
with eb202
Lead P2 & P3 as one big pitch on 60m half ropes about 10m rope to spare, made for a proper adventure! Then got P5. Slipped at the start of P1 due to trying to carry the pack but am going to claim the onsight as it was so close to the ground (halled it up the 6c pitches). Has to be a three star line, solid rock, well bolted and brilliant positions.
with eb202
eb202 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome adventure. Found every pitch interesting. The gritstone top out on P6 took me by surprise!
with Mike505
Awesome adventure. Found every pitch interesting. The gritstone top out on P6 took me by surprise!
with Mike505
g1m147 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd I led the even pitches. Great route. Pitch 2 is fantastic!
with Mick.
I led the even pitches. Great route. Pitch 2 is fantastic!
with Mick.
pguilloux 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd Lead pitch 1,3&5. Fantastic route. All the pitches are interesting, we didn't find loose rock and the atmosphere is unique. Good bolting too!
with Luca
Lead pitch 1,3&5. Fantastic route. All the pitches are interesting, we didn't find loose rock and the atmosphere is unique. Good bolting too!
with Luca
tim.fairhall 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S The 6c pitches (2,3 and 5)
with Seb
The 6c pitches (2,3 and 5)
with Seb
seb b 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd dog 1 hang on pitch 2.
1 hang on pitch 2.
MarkH143 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Only fall for either of us was me on the crux of the weird fifth pitch. Great route!
Led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Only fall for either of us was me on the crux of the weird fifth pitch. Great route!
Michael James Spring 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd I lead pitch 1,3 and 5. Really enjoyable and some pretty hard climbing throughout, crux was in pitch 3 I think! We came down in the dark and struggled to find the way but it was up and out left across scree then down a sloping walled path and a final scree slope, passing a few of ruined miners' buildings along the way.
I lead pitch 1,3 and 5. Really enjoyable and some pretty hard climbing throughout, crux was in pitch 3 I think! We came down in the dark and struggled to find the way but it was up and out left across scree then down a sloping walled path and a final scree slope, passing a few of ruined miners' buildings along the way.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 -
Kipper-Phil Smith 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd Nice to do a long sport route. All of the three 6C pitches were good and required differing styles. I got the long 2nd pitch which is probably the best. Loved the approach into the hole its so unusual.
with Shaun
Nice to do a long sport route. All of the three 6C pitches were good and required differing styles. I got the long 2nd pitch which is probably the best. Loved the approach into the hole its so unusual.
with Shaun
elliotphillips43 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice way to heave out of the great hole that is Twll Mawr. Managed to climb all pitches clean, onsighting P2 and P6. Climbed as a party of 5 (ooops...lucky noone else was planning on the climb that day) and followed the leading pair as a three. Crux I felt was perhaps on pitch three after the airy move out from the belay.
with Jolan, Justin (the irish), Andy (the american), Jen Shirlaw
Nice way to heave out of the great hole that is Twll Mawr. Managed to climb all pitches clean, onsighting P2 and P6. Climbed as a party of 5 (ooops...lucky noone else was planning on the climb that day) and followed the leading pair as a three. Crux I felt was perhaps on pitch three after the airy move out from the belay.
with Jolan, Justin (the irish), Andy (the american), Jen Shirlaw
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd dog
Dave Musgrove 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Really good to finally complete this route. Magnificent and varied climbing all the way. I led the three 6c pitches - all very different and all quite challenging. Hardest move for me was probably exiting the groove at the top of pitch 5. Not quite sure how I hung in there but I did. Just! Great day out with Johnny - very hot but very satisfying.
with Johnny Walker
Really good to finally complete this route. Magnificent and varied climbing all the way. I led the three 6c pitches - all very different and all quite challenging. Hardest move for me was probably exiting the groove at the top of pitch 5. Not quite sure how I hung in there but I did. Just! Great day out with Johnny - very hot but very satisfying.
with Johnny Walker
Jen BXM S ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dan Jenkin 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
with Gordon Jenkin
nickt 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog Gorgeous climb, best of 2018. A foot slip on one of the 6c pitches cost me the onsight, but so it goes!
Gorgeous climb, best of 2018. A foot slip on one of the 6c pitches cost me the onsight, but so it goes!
luke glaister 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S I did p2.p4.p5. How this don't get 3 stars is beyond me. Class from start to finish. The slab pitch is some of the best climbing I've done. So delicate. But every pitch is great. So hot today but the updraft of wind was nice. Well bolted too.
I did p2.p4.p5. How this don't get 3 stars is beyond me. Class from start to finish. The slab pitch is some of the best climbing I've done. So delicate. But every pitch is great. So hot today but the updraft of wind was nice. Well bolted too.
Ed Houghton 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Really great climbing, thoroughly enjoyable day out in glorious weather! Awesome slab on 2nd pitch, loved the 'wild' moves to gain the rib out left on the 3rd pitch, they needn't be wild with a bit of handy footwork and thoughtful palming and pulling - they were my favourite moves on the climb. Highly recommended. Surely 3 stars! Finish before the sun starts going down to avoid the relentless onslaught of midges.
with zedohee
Really great climbing, thoroughly enjoyable day out in glorious weather! Awesome slab on 2nd pitch, loved the 'wild' moves to gain the rib out left on the 3rd pitch, they needn't be wild with a bit of handy footwork and thoughtful palming and pulling - they were my favourite moves on the climb. Highly recommended. Surely 3 stars! Finish before the sun starts going down to avoid the relentless onslaught of midges.
with zedohee
philhilo 8 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S A grand day out on an excellent route. Great climbing, devious cruxes, and well bolted. Finding it was easy (lots of info online inc video from 1st ascenionist), getting off was a challenge wandering imbetween lots of very steep slate.
with Back rope solo
A grand day out on an excellent route. Great climbing, devious cruxes, and well bolted. Finding it was easy (lots of info online inc video from 1st ascenionist), getting off was a challenge wandering imbetween lots of very steep slate.
with Back rope solo
Glyn 28 May, 2018 Lead rpt Hot Hot hot! Great climbing. Did first three pitches of Tan y Ddraig since first pitch was wet.
Hot Hot hot! Great climbing. Did first three pitches of Tan y Ddraig since first pitch was wet.
ChrisDavis 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome. Did first three pitches of Tan y Ddraig since first pitch was wet
with Glyn, Stevie
Awesome. Did first three pitches of Tan y Ddraig since first pitch was wet
with Glyn, Stevie
dynoseb 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic outing into the depths of the slate mines and back out again. A great route that's well worth doing. Exciting approach through the tunnel to the base of Twll Mawr. Best pitch for me was the second, really nice delicate slab climbing. Well bolted too with an easy walk off.
with Hati W
Fantastic outing into the depths of the slate mines and back out again. A great route that's well worth doing. Exciting approach through the tunnel to the base of Twll Mawr. Best pitch for me was the second, really nice delicate slab climbing. Well bolted too with an easy walk off.
with Hati W
Hati W 26 May, 2018 AltLd β It says alt leads but Seb ended up with all the difficult ones. Made our way down the scree to the depths of the Twll Mawr with the grace and elegance of the mountain goats who also happened to be there. Pitch one was super delicate (I had a reet mare) but then the rest was wonderfully slabby with some crazy exposure!
with dynoseb
It says alt leads but Seb ended up with all the difficult ones. Made our way down the scree to the depths of the Twll Mawr with the grace and elegance of the mountain goats who also happened to be there. Pitch one was super delicate (I had a reet mare) but then the rest was wonderfully slabby with some crazy exposure!
with dynoseb
Moritz L 12 May, 2018 AltLd French with haul bag. Block lead 2*2*2. 3.5 hrs
with Dan0Me
French with haul bag. Block lead 2*2*2. 3.5 hrs
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 12 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
GazzerM55 7 May, 2018 AltLd Rope of three - excellent trip!
with Matt
Rope of three - excellent trip!
with Matt
Whizzer 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant
with Rab
Brilliant
with Rab
Hubert Feret 14 Apr, 2018 AltLd dog
andyob 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd Bit wet , but only first pitch, sunny all day and brilliant climbing.
Bit wet , but only first pitch, sunny all day and brilliant climbing.
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Epic - obviously! Long, very long. Well balanced climbing, pretty continuous for so many pitches together. Great variety of climbing. Amazing views throughout too
Epic - obviously! Long, very long. Well balanced climbing, pretty continuous for so many pitches together. Great variety of climbing. Amazing views throughout too
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
MikePycroft 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd dog Led p1, 3, 5. Good climbing hard move on p3 didn't free it p5 used aid to clip bolt at top of grove before freeing moves. Fell of top pitch. Just finished in daylight good after work route
with Ceffin, wynaptomos
Led p1, 3, 5. Good climbing hard move on p3 didn't free it p5 used aid to clip bolt at top of grove before freeing moves. Fell of top pitch. Just finished in daylight good after work route
with Ceffin, wynaptomos
wynaptomos 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2,4,6. Brilliant climbing.
with Mike P, Cefin
Led P2,4,6. Brilliant climbing.
with Mike P, Cefin
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
Matthew Davies 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Seconded 1st pitch, led the remaining pitches. Tough 6C second pitch crux.
with Andrew Cardy
Seconded 1st pitch, led the remaining pitches. Tough 6C second pitch crux.
with Andrew Cardy
Olly Chapman 31 May, 2017 Lead
geoff b 26 May, 2017 AltLd rpt Chose to climb here to avoid the heat & did it in the morning whilst it was partly shaded. Great variety of climbing styles & it's cleaning up really well. Rod really enjoyed it. Must be 3 stars. On P2, who moves left to the arête just before the belay & who pulls straight over the little overlap straight to the belay?
with Rod W
Chose to climb here to avoid the heat & did it in the morning whilst it was partly shaded. Great variety of climbing styles & it's cleaning up really well. Rod really enjoyed it. Must be 3 stars. On P2, who moves left to the arête just before the belay & who pulls straight over the little overlap straight to the belay?
with Rod W
Emily C 23 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route. Blazing sunshine. I led pitches 2, 4 and 5. Especially enjoyed p2, 35m balancy 6c
Great route. Blazing sunshine. I led pitches 2, 4 and 5. Especially enjoyed p2, 35m balancy 6c
JoeFranklin 17 May, 2017 AltLd
geoff b 14 May, 2017 AltLd dnf Darn, got rained off, so fled to Rhoscolyn; much warmer!
with Rod W
Darn, got rained off, so fled to Rhoscolyn; much warmer!
with Rod W
evans859 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd dog
Jacob Gretton 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd dog Lead pitches 2,4,6. One fall near the top of the 2nd then lead 4 and 6 clean. A mega day out, really well bolted and fun climbing!
Lead pitches 2,4,6. One fall near the top of the 2nd then lead 4 and 6 clean. A mega day out, really well bolted and fun climbing!
Jim Tan ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
charlietorrance 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd fell off the 3rd pitch on one tricky move! such a good day out!! al the pitches wer really good!
fell off the 3rd pitch on one tricky move! such a good day out!! al the pitches wer really good!
jonleighton 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S A very fun outing, good climbing on every pitch. I lead P2+3 and P5+6 (ran them together). If you're combining P2+3, be careful with rope drag - I recommend skipping some bolts and putting a DMM revolver on the draw before the P2 lower-off (I didn't think to do this, and then had to keep moving my first draw after the lower off up so that the rope didn't zig-zag too much).
A very fun outing, good climbing on every pitch. I lead P2+3 and P5+6 (ran them together). If you're combining P2+3, be careful with rope drag - I recommend skipping some bolts and putting a DMM revolver on the draw before the P2 lower-off (I didn't think to do this, and then had to keep moving my first draw after the lower off up so that the rope didn't zig-zag too much).
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
adamski1979 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Niki Spreng
with Niki Spreng
mike8331 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd first pitch wet , with in situ slime , the second in situ dryish slime , after that dry and excellent climbing an enjoyable experience .
with dave potter
first pitch wet , with in situ slime , the second in situ dryish slime , after that dry and excellent climbing an enjoyable experience .
with dave potter
nige 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
George Ponsonby 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hugh Irving 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Steve Long 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt Second time on this route & it really is excellent, even with the rain in the middle of the day. Steve ran P3 & P4 together, I ran P5 & P6 together. Still 3 stars!
Second time on this route & it really is excellent, even with the rain in the middle of the day. Steve ran P3 & P4 together, I ran P5 & P6 together. Still 3 stars!
Hidden 15 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Paul Collins 15 Jun, 2016 AltLd Amazing route, lots of good climbing!
Amazing route, lots of good climbing!
papashango 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Aggie, Evi
with Aggie, Evi
AJ007 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
will_lake 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S I did the odd pitches, managed all the 6c pitches without a rest. Mega route
I did the odd pitches, managed all the 6c pitches without a rest. Mega route
Richardlake 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd dog Will Pitch 1, 3, 5. Me 2, 4, 6. Almost got the whole second pitch, came to the arete a little too high which is harder. Other two pitches clean. Other 6c pitches needed a rest. Incredible route.
Will Pitch 1, 3, 5. Me 2, 4, 6. Almost got the whole second pitch, came to the arete a little too high which is harder. Other two pitches clean. Other 6c pitches needed a rest. Incredible route.
will_lake 30 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Started really late as we couldn't find the damn tunnel, so only had time for first two pitches
Started really late as we couldn't find the damn tunnel, so only had time for first two pitches
Richardlake 30 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Pitch 1 and 2, then abbed off due to incredible painful feet. Such a hot day!
Pitch 1 and 2, then abbed off due to incredible painful feet. Such a hot day!
Petethemeat 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
tonevert 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 29 May, 2016 AltLd Somehow fell off when not moving and on big holds. Wtf? Not a dud pitch in the whole climb. 90m ab from top worked well for us.
Somehow fell off when not moving and on big holds. Wtf? Not a dud pitch in the whole climb. 90m ab from top worked well for us.
Dogwood 20 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 2, 4 & 6. Incredible route!
Lead pitches 2, 4 & 6. Incredible route!
Hidden 13 May, 2016 Lead
cymjt 6 May, 2016 AltLd O/S p1, 3, 5+6. Wonderful. Friendly bolting. Good climbing and didn't even feel too hard!
with Socks
p1, 3, 5+6. Wonderful. Friendly bolting. Good climbing and didn't even feel too hard!
with Socks
kieranor ?Apr, 2016 AltLd Very good although I was like fucking Bambi towards the end. Joe led 4 of the 6 pitches. My feet were dying after 6 long pitches on slab
Very good although I was like fucking Bambi towards the end. Joe led 4 of the 6 pitches. My feet were dying after 6 long pitches on slab
Oliver Branagan 14 Mar, 2016 AltLd Loved being higher off the deck. Onsighted besides single falls on p3/5 cruxes. - Lead p1,3,5
with Mark B
Loved being higher off the deck. Onsighted besides single falls on p3/5 cruxes. - Lead p1,3,5
with Mark B
mattfarr 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd Really good climbing. Did not get it clean but had a damn good time. All you can hope for.
Really good climbing. Did not get it clean but had a damn good time. All you can hope for.
Davecapewell 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd Lead/ onsited 6c pitches. Amazing route requiring some beautiful human shape throwing. Launching my CAT boots from start of pitch 2 was a good weight saving technique. My advice is go light unless you want to leave stuff and have to walk back round. Can't wait to try 2nd longest route, thanks mr Lloyd-jones!!
Lead/ onsited 6c pitches. Amazing route requiring some beautiful human shape throwing. Launching my CAT boots from start of pitch 2 was a good weight saving technique. My advice is go light unless you want to leave stuff and have to walk back round. Can't wait to try 2nd longest route, thanks mr Lloyd-jones!!
Sl@te Head 29 Sep, 2015 AltLd rpt My first repeat since the First Ascent, really enjoyed :-)
My first repeat since the First Ascent, really enjoyed :-)
Callumjnelson 29 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Ian Llyod Jones
with Ian Llyod Jones
Javis 26 Sep, 2015 Lead G/U Very nice pitches and the view is awesome! You can easily link pitch 5 and 6 to save time. We thought of abseiling back down instead of walking but some of the belay points are missing one of the ring anchors.
with EdGeall
Very nice pitches and the view is awesome! You can easily link pitch 5 and 6 to save time. We thought of abseiling back down instead of walking but some of the belay points are missing one of the ring anchors.
with EdGeall
EdGeall 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Javis
with Javis
Luke Owens 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead and onsighed the 3 6c pitches. Flashed the other 3 on 2nd. Hold broke off at the top of pitch 2 annoyingly but I re-climbed from a hands off rest straight off. Absolutely mega line, one of the most fun routes I've done. Great respect and a big thanks to Ian!
with Sam2257
Lead and onsighed the 3 6c pitches. Flashed the other 3 on 2nd. Hold broke off at the top of pitch 2 annoyingly but I re-climbed from a hands off rest straight off. Absolutely mega line, one of the most fun routes I've done. Great respect and a big thanks to Ian!
with Sam2257
Sam2257 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Phenomenal route with a great mix of fun, unique and bizzare moves. A super classic. Lead P1, 4 & 6 clean O/S, dogged the 6c pitches 2nd'ing.
Phenomenal route with a great mix of fun, unique and bizzare moves. A super classic. Lead P1, 4 & 6 clean O/S, dogged the 6c pitches 2nd'ing.
Dkoi 27 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Nicky price
with Nicky price
nickyprice77 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
robpartridge 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Matt, Serena
with Matt, Serena
D Tempest 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1, 3 & 5, a good climb, fully enjoyed by both of us.
with Rick
I led pitches 1, 3 & 5, a good climb, fully enjoyed by both of us.
with Rick
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
dicky79 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Well bolted and fun. Accurate gradings.
with Pete
Well bolted and fun. Accurate gradings.
with Pete
stevoland 8 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S p1,3,5 lovely
p1,3,5 lovely
allend 4 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S P1 flashed, P2 to P6 onsighted. Worth seeking out, this is a nice climb. Kudos to the bolters!
P1 flashed, P2 to P6 onsighted. Worth seeking out, this is a nice climb. Kudos to the bolters!
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
freemanTom 23 May, 2015 AltLd Led even pitches. Damp to start, cheeky pull on draw on first pitch. One fall on 3rd otherwise clean. Cracking route, donation to bolt fund will be forthcoming.
with Jurgen
Led even pitches. Damp to start, cheeky pull on draw on first pitch. One fall on 3rd otherwise clean. Cracking route, donation to bolt fund will be forthcoming.
with Jurgen
Hidden 22 Apr, 2015 -
pete johnson 17 Apr, 2015 AltLd Thought P5 was crux. Naughty little move despatched with ease by Mr Bendy
with geoff b
Thought P5 was crux. Naughty little move despatched with ease by Mr Bendy
with geoff b
geoff b 17 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S What a great experience; friendly & generous bolting, mostly solid rock, varied climbing with interest sustained throughout, a great feeling as you escape the hole, a sunny aspect, great views.....3 stars. Diolch yn fawr Ian.
What a great experience; friendly & generous bolting, mostly solid rock, varied climbing with interest sustained throughout, a great feeling as you escape the hole, a sunny aspect, great views.....3 stars. Diolch yn fawr Ian.
Glyn 6 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
dswansonlow 21 Mar, 2015 Lead rpt
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
Albachoss 21 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P1/3/5: Great route, spot on with the grading. The first 6c pitch had a wonderfully sustained technical section and the last is not to be underestimated on first glance!
with Dougie
Lead P1/3/5: Great route, spot on with the grading. The first 6c pitch had a wonderfully sustained technical section and the last is not to be underestimated on first glance!
with Dougie
Hidden 18 Mar, 2015 -
Hidden 15 Mar, 2015 2nd dnf
Hidden 14 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf
Matt250 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd dnf Did P1 and P2. Quite wet which made it tricky and made progress slow. Will go back to finish when it's drier, warmer and lighter. Really impressive line!
Did P1 and P2. Quite wet which made it tricky and made progress slow. Will go back to finish when it's drier, warmer and lighter. Really impressive line!
John Bunney ??, 2015 - With Harriet, ace route.
With Harriet, ace route.
SGD 16 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2,4,6. P2 is amazingly good, fantastic slab pitch really well bolted. There was some wetness around but we were able to avoid most of it. I'd say P2 was the crux pitch as its more sustained although the other 6c pitches have stiff moves but are more short lived.. P4 has a naughty start and P6 has a sting in the tail., too hard for 6b....but it was wet. A truely Excellent route in a sureal setting.
with Tom Relf
Lead P2,4,6. P2 is amazingly good, fantastic slab pitch really well bolted. There was some wetness around but we were able to avoid most of it. I'd say P2 was the crux pitch as its more sustained although the other 6c pitches have stiff moves but are more short lived.. P4 has a naughty start and P6 has a sting in the tail., too hard for 6b....but it was wet. A truely Excellent route in a sureal setting.
with Tom Relf
pymn nice but dim 15 Nov, 2014 Lead G/U Cool Climb, first time on slate too which was seemed to feel pretty good where not wet! The first pitch had water literally running down it, which probably made it the hardest pitch of the day! Second pitch was 50% wet with a big wet band running through the center, from the base of the third pitch. Middle pitches weren't too bad in the wet just meant you were limited by the hand and foot holds available, top pitch again was soaked. I'll be back in better conditions to really enjoy the rock and hopefully get to use the other half of the route!
Cool Climb, first time on slate too which was seemed to feel pretty good where not wet! The first pitch had water literally running down it, which probably made it the hardest pitch of the day! Second pitch was 50% wet with a big wet band running through the center, from the base of the third pitch. Middle pitches weren't too bad in the wet just meant you were limited by the hand and foot holds available, top pitch again was soaked. I'll be back in better conditions to really enjoy the rock and hopefully get to use the other half of the route!
ian1234567 15 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S shirt less on the 3rd pitch sunny in november. easy climb with pymm. one hard move on the middle fun route
shirt less on the 3rd pitch sunny in november. easy climb with pymm. one hard move on the middle fun route
samparsons ?Nov, 2014 Lead dnf We tryed to lead it as a 3 setting off straight after a 2, but left way to late and it got really dark on the 4th pitch and only i had a head torch. We headed back out through the cave with only one head torch, what an adventure. Too wet to climb in November.
We tryed to lead it as a 3 setting off straight after a 2, but left way to late and it got really dark on the 4th pitch and only i had a head torch. We headed back out through the cave with only one head torch, what an adventure. Too wet to climb in November.
treesrockice 26 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Thought this was mega! did in very high wind and some rain!
Thought this was mega! did in very high wind and some rain!
Wayne S 19 Sep, 2014 AltLd
The Grist 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Good fun route. Felt pretty easy for the grade to me. Very well bolted.
with Nick Allsop
Good fun route. Felt pretty easy for the grade to me. Very well bolted.
with Nick Allsop
Leo Woodhead 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Really enjoyable route. The first 6c pitch is the crux pitch in my opinion, but all the 6c pitches have a bit of a sting to be fair. Awesome setting, nicely bolted and as it's new there's not even a snifter of polish. Get on it whilst it's in such beautiful condition!
with Bertrand
Really enjoyable route. The first 6c pitch is the crux pitch in my opinion, but all the 6c pitches have a bit of a sting to be fair. Awesome setting, nicely bolted and as it's new there's not even a snifter of polish. Get on it whilst it's in such beautiful condition!
with Bertrand
jamesgodwin64 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Well worth the travel, well worth getting on a very good route! Slate was very good quality moves were good, the grades were bang on but be warned the 6c crux's have a sting in there tail so you most certainly know when your at, on and doing the crux ;). Did pitch 2 4 n 5. Thank you the Jones's for putting this up route!
with andi thomas
Well worth the travel, well worth getting on a very good route! Slate was very good quality moves were good, the grades were bang on but be warned the 6c crux's have a sting in there tail so you most certainly know when your at, on and doing the crux ;). Did pitch 2 4 n 5. Thank you the Jones's for putting this up route!
with andi thomas
Paul Eckton 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with steve read
with steve read
Stefan_Morris 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd
soph 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
AndrewJamesCherry 8 Aug, 2014 Lead Multiple laps with a large haul-bag in tow, as part of a training exercise before going to Yosemite. A note: This is an awful choice of route for a big-wall style ascent, as its sharp, blocky, multi-directional nature (which affords great interesting climbing) leads to stuck haulbags, trashed ropes, difficult jumaring etc etc...
Multiple laps with a large haul-bag in tow, as part of a training exercise before going to Yosemite. A note: This is an awful choice of route for a big-wall style ascent, as its sharp, blocky, multi-directional nature (which affords great interesting climbing) leads to stuck haulbags, trashed ropes, difficult jumaring etc etc...
Dkoi 29 Jul, 2014 Lead Amazing route, completed this in a group of three . Pitch two is very tough .
with Greg, Mark Barnard
Amazing route, completed this in a group of three . Pitch two is very tough .
with Greg, Mark Barnard
Mr Boulder 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 25 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Only pitches 1 & 2 which I thought were both superb. Unfortunately my second felt rather intimidated and declined to follow pitch 2. I will hopefully be back to finish the job. (Please note P2 is longer than 30metres. A 70m rope would be better in case of retreat).
Only pitches 1 & 2 which I thought were both superb. Unfortunately my second felt rather intimidated and declined to follow pitch 2. I will hopefully be back to finish the job. (Please note P2 is longer than 30metres. A 70m rope would be better in case of retreat).
harold walmsley 24 Jun, 2014 Lead Wow: well done Ian, a fabulous route. Not done anything like it anywhere. Left nature of lead blank in logbook as no options do justice to reality. I actually had two falls on p3: the first while resting bridged out before the crux move through not realising how slippy the L smear foothold was, resting was actually OK just by standing on the right without bridging, the second when part of the belay ledge crumbled away unexpectedly under my hands. Neither gave me any advantage (in both cases there were hands-off rests by or just before the fall position and I immediately reclimbed from them). Although it was not a proper onsight I don't feel the shortfall warrants greying out the lead or going back to redpoint it as I had it in hand (excuses, excuses). The last headwall was desperate for F6b. Thought P5 groove was the crux. P1 to P3 were special. Start of P4 crimpy rather than blocky and hard for 6a+. Has something come off?
with Rob Davies
Wow: well done Ian, a fabulous route. Not done anything like it anywhere. Left nature of lead blank in logbook as no options do justice to reality. I actually had two falls on p3: the first while resting bridged out before the crux move through not realising how slippy the L smear foothold was, resting was actually OK just by standing on the right without bridging, the second when part of the belay ledge crumbled away unexpectedly under my hands. Neither gave me any advantage (in both cases there were hands-off rests by or just before the fall position and I immediately reclimbed from them). Although it was not a proper onsight I don't feel the shortfall warrants greying out the lead or going back to redpoint it as I had it in hand (excuses, excuses). The last headwall was desperate for F6b. Thought P5 groove was the crux. P1 to P3 were special. Start of P4 crimpy rather than blocky and hard for 6a+. Has something come off?
with Rob Davies
Rob Davies 24 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Couple of wee rests to contemplate moves, as I can't climb 6c
Couple of wee rests to contemplate moves, as I can't climb 6c
alexjz 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S great route, lead P1, 3, 5-6
with George Ullrich
great route, lead P1, 3, 5-6
with George Ullrich
Chubbard 1 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route. Really varied. Pretty solid too.
with C Godfrey
Great route. Really varied. Pretty solid too.
with C Godfrey
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 18 May, 2014 -
with Pete Frost
with Pete Frost
Pete_Frost 18 May, 2014 AltLd A bit loose in places, but well worthwhile. The bolting is excellent and feels safe throughout. Mark led the 6c pitches and I led the rest. I took one fall following the last 6c pitch. We did the rest cleanly.
A bit loose in places, but well worthwhile. The bolting is excellent and feels safe throughout. Mark led the 6c pitches and I led the rest. I took one fall following the last 6c pitch. We did the rest cleanly.
mr mills 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Great outing, thanks for bolting this route Ian ! Led pitch 2,4,5&6 together.
with alun hughes
Great outing, thanks for bolting this route Ian ! Led pitch 2,4,5&6 together.
with alun hughes
Stefan_Morris 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Totally varied! and great fun - really cool to tick the UK's longest sport route.
Totally varied! and great fun - really cool to tick the UK's longest sport route.
dswansonlow 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitches 1,3,5. Great route that flows easily all the way up. The bolting is very friendly throughout and the route doesn't feel intimidating despite the size. The rock is really quite solid, a little dirty around the holds but the holds are clean. Cheers for bolting this! I can see it having a fair few repeats.
Pitches 1,3,5. Great route that flows easily all the way up. The bolting is very friendly throughout and the route doesn't feel intimidating despite the size. The rock is really quite solid, a little dirty around the holds but the holds are clean. Cheers for bolting this! I can see it having a fair few repeats.
shed_hed 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2, 4, and 6. Nice route, worth seeking out.
Led pitch 2, 4, and 6. Nice route, worth seeking out.
LRob 28 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Good, well bolted route. Missed a few on the way. Couple of cruxy little moves but mostly straight forward. 1 star route in a 3star situation in my opinion. Good effort cleaning and bolting.
Good, well bolted route. Missed a few on the way. Couple of cruxy little moves but mostly straight forward. 1 star route in a 3star situation in my opinion. Good effort cleaning and bolting.
Sl@te Head 25 Apr, 2014 AltLd RP A great Father Son adventure on the First Ascent of a route which will hopefully be enjoyed by many...
A great Father Son adventure on the First Ascent of a route which will hopefully be enjoyed by many...
Celt Ll-J 25 Apr, 2014 AltLd A fun day out with my dad :)!!! I lead pitch 4
A fun day out with my dad :)!!! I lead pitch 4
cjd91 ??, 2014 Lead dog What can I say slipped off on the 2nd pitch which kinda ruined my day. Found the 3rd pitch easier than 6c and the 5th pitch nails...do you stay in the groove or climb the prow?? Will hopefully go back to get it clean one day
with bobbie
What can I say slipped off on the 2nd pitch which kinda ruined my day. Found the 3rd pitch easier than 6c and the 5th pitch nails...do you stay in the groove or climb the prow?? Will hopefully go back to get it clean one day
with bobbie
Hidden 1 May, 2004 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set