Rockfax Description
A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.
1) 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.
2) 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

M Thompson, R Harris 1961

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, Avon VS challenge.

BStar 06/Oct/17 2nd dnf

Trevs had a bit of a nightmare, didn't fancy it after watching him

with Trevers
badgerjockey 06/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Glad to finally do this. All the best an Avon VS can be. Crumbling pegs, exposure, vegetation, hairy traverses and great views. Easier than it looks from the bottom. Could just be led on pegs alone if you're a tit.

with Rich
TGHB 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead p3, didn't really notice the crux, a bit crumbly in places so best to double check holds

JoeCoxson 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led the '1st pitch'. Glad Dan plowed through on the 2nd pitch, despite a wobble. Tom cruise's the last pitch without a hesitation.

Legs 31/Jul/17 AltLd
Rob Morgan 31/Jul/17 AltLd

Led roof pitch.

with Max
will_lake 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Richardlake 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

pitch 2 - incredible belay perch at the end. We went wrong on the first pitch and scaled the crumbly rock and thorny bushes on the right hand side of the greenery. Don't do this...

Ed Hastings 29/May/17 Lead O/S

Very wet on last pitch!!

with Sandy Murray
Hidden 30/Mar/17 AltLd dog
Hidden 30/Mar/17 AltLd
Chris Sansum 22/Jan/17 AltLd rpt

Steve P1, Chris P2, Steve P3.

with Steve Collard
riff156 22/Jan/17 AltLd G/U
Jim blackford 07/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Hard for VS but really good route! soloed pitch 1

with Arthur
AshBarnes 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 3, scrambled pitch 1

with Jake
JGriffiths 07/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2 after scrambling up pitch 1

ecromwell 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, super exposed positions, I led p2.

with Harvey
s.scott 10/Aug/16 AltLd
with Jim
steve_gibbs 10/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with George Cave
67hours 10/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Steve "d00D" Gibbs
Jim-Roberts-1987 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S

The first pitch and a bit are extremely overgrown at the moment, especially with thorns which make the start unpleasant. I went further than the guidebook suggests and set up the first stance at the two pegs that the route guide mentions in pitch two. This climb is quite exposed.

alan1234 17/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
ad111 11/Jul/16 AltLd
with Sam W
Samuel Wainwright 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Adam Bloch
catty_9 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

We went the wrong way up pitch one (actually did the other side of the groove and ended up doing a dodgy traverse left back to the first belay). After that pitches 2 and 3 were lovely. I led pitch 3 and the strange traverse

Angrypenguin 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Cat
danieleaston 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. I did a weird handjam pull move at the end of p2 which I thought was tough.

with Saz
saz_b 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Scrambled p1, lead p2. Exciting end of pitch! Starting to be a bit overgrown. P3 traverse fun. Pegs aplenty. Belay from top of p2 is nice!

Anouk Spelt 05/Jun/16 2nd
steve_gibbs 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
d.heard 05/Jun/16 2nd
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 26/May/16 2nd
Bristol_Quornstar 26/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sverre Aarseth Tunstad, Sam de Belder
WillAndrew 12/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 12/May/16 AltLd O/S

p1 & 3. Pretty good, though quintessential avon climbing. Lovely sunset made for a nice belay at the top.

Rob Morgan 05/May/16 AltLd

Led P2

with Max
Legs 05/May/16 AltLd O/S
hutchay 05/May/16 AltLd

Led as 1 pitch

with Jonnie
JGriffiths 04/May/16 2nd O/S
Steve Bartle 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

I led p2 and p3. Great exposed climbing, but perhaps not one for those new to leading VS. Gear is mainly small and micro nuts and cams...and the pegs of course. All looks very impenetrable from the base. Don't do after rain or you'll get very muddy shoes on p1!

Hidden 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
nathanjmasters 24/Apr/16 Lead dog

A brilliant climb. After the initial pitch the climb starts becoming pretty bold. Lead all pitches. Fell on a bolt just after coming around the overhang after a silly mistake. Flew up it afterwards. A great top out behind the ice cream van!

with Tom Timberlake
eoinb 23/Apr/16 AltLd
Nick Russell 13/Apr/16 Solo rpt

I haven't done this for ages! Excellent route :)

Dakam12 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S
andy dunn 10/Apr/16 AltLd
with J
deklan 10/Apr/16 Lead
HarrietLeeMerrion 10/Apr/16 2nd
with Declan
Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Good route. I thought 5a crux both pitches.

with martin Levy
TomGudgeon 09/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Charlotte Nelson 23/Jan/16 2nd
with georgia, Luke
Hidden 23/Jan/16 Lead
Hidden 23/Jan/16 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hugobristol 10/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Eleanor
Laurence20 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Solo p1, lead p2+3

with Brendan Greene
BStar 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1, if you can call it a pitch. Got up the route fine but would be a bit wary about leading it at present.

with Trevor Lewis, Dan Carron
DoMakeSayThink 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Solo'd P1, Martin led P2 and I led P3. Found it fairly tricky, as compared with the other VS routes we've done in the gorge. Really fun, though, and a nice tricky move getting round the overhang.

m_andersson 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Ben solo'd p1. I led p1 and then Ben did p3. Nice and interesting climb.

arandall 31/May/15 AltLd rpt
Wendy Watthews 31/May/15 Lead O/S

P2 + P3

Kemics 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Raged when ropes got caught trying to absiel into ramp, had to walk back up and round. Eventually got on route. I led second pitch. Both 4c pitches are almost entirely protected by shit pegs. Most of which I could bend by hand! Easy climbing though. Just don't fall off. Also, death block still there on second pitch

with Mel
jon_ridley 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Martin1973 21/Apr/15 AltLd
with Huw Gilbert
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd
hutchay 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Fliss
AngelaC 09/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Feb/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
Marcin78 ?/Oct/14 2nd
with Karol
danmullett 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
joedoherty 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Bit loose in place, but great fun.

mattprince 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch VS 4c

Hidden 08/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
clmacdonald 21/Jun/14 Lead
tskelhon 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Charlotte, chris davis
martinlevya82 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??/2014 -
Cheese Monkey 14/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Neil, Vienna, Ian M
Ian Miller 14/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Neil Morbey, Vienna, Ben Darby
kenneM 10/Dec/13 AltLd

With Pete

steve_gibbs 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 27/Sep/13 2nd
sheelba 10/Sep/13 AltLd
RileyJ 07/Sep/13 Lead
with Simon Riley, Peter riley
will moy 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/13 AltLd
jcw ??/2013 -
Eike 18/Nov/12 2nd
with Tom Blight
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
TrevorCruse 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Malcolm
Hidden 06/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Slick 20/Aug/12 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Kyle87 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Webster 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. not to dificult but very exposed with poor gear and big run outs. p3 was straightforward and enjoyable on second.

steve-grigg 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with James S
James Smith 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with jamie
George Frisby 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
stafford101 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

What a beast! Sustained, steep, rusty pegs, and a dubious belay. The topout is one of the best in the gorge though.

Poco Loco 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Top route! exciting positions for the grade. Topping out 10 meters from the ice cream van is a bonus!

with Lucy
lucyh 09/Jun/12 2nd
Quarryboy 26/May/12 AltLd rpt

One of the more hilarious climbing experiences to date what with Jason dropping his mums pink £70 camera that he was borrowing down a gully.

with Jason and friends
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead O/S
mullermn 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

Kylie P1, me P2&3 P2 definitely good value for the grade! P2 belay possibly scarier than the climb itself being composed as it is of a horror show of dying pegs in slightly the wrong direction backed up with one small directional offset. Good climb though; memorable... Upon checking the Rockfax guide they recommend belaying a few metres below the roof - this would have been much more sensible!

pffft 19/May/12 AltLd rpt

Second pitch, a joy.

Monk 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely.I lead P1&2 together. Thought it was quite tricky in places.

with Luke Vincent
pheotleyr 13/May/12 2nd β
with Todd
TDembrey 13/May/12 Lead rpt
with Peter
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd
Slick 30/Mar/12 AltLd

Izzy led P2

Jack_F 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Cameron
Stanners 18/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Pitch 3 instead this time round. Good route but was not very psyched this morning.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

It was really cold and I couldn't feel my fingers on pitch 2 and 3 which made it a bit tricky. I led the first, easy, pitch.

Quarryboy 18/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Big and intimidating as ever

Dean177 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twigger
Hidden 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Bobby Pearson 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Epic!! I did first pitch. Duvies led 2nd pitch and pulled off a large flake which landed on my head, smashing a hole in my helmet and splitting my head open resulting in 4 staples in A&E. Finished the climb though which was bold in places but enjoyable. Tim bricked himself!

with Nick Davies, Tim Pearson
Hidden 02/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/12 2nd β
Nick Russell 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Graeme
dbm 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Martin Grenfell
jamesn89 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with James N
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
HarryB 07/Dec/11 Lead rpt
Katherine Ross 07/Dec/11 2nd O/S

Refreshing to climb in the gorge with so little polish! Nice climbing on P2 & 3, though I thought I was going to come off at 2 points on P2.

georgeevans88 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex P
aipattison 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Great route! Very little polosh considering the grade. Scrambled P1, led P3.

pffft 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Think the gentleman above conned me into the HVS 4c variation, though not sure. What ever it was, it was bold for VS 4c. Love going under the overhang though :-)

with Jojo Mills
maresia 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Some steep sections but the holds are all there.

dan ely 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with jon (ukc reading)
Kate Edhouse 18/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Scrambled up pitch 1, seconded pitch 2, lead pitch 3, amazing little climb, thats a lot less tafficed than the sea wall around the corner!

with tom
Gary S 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom Moat
tim.fairhall 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S


with Matt
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

standard Vs climbing. top pitch is definitely easier but has a nice sequence of exposed moves

arandall ?/Sep/11 Lead β
with Hebe Knowles
arandall ?/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
ashley_sandeman 19/Aug/11 AltLd β

Decent and exposed VS with a slightly tricky crux around the double bolts along P2. The whole second pitch feels pretty exposed right up to the belay under the roof (easier belay station than the option of the double bolts). The final pitch traverse and rock over up and out between the overhang is a nice but short sequence of moves.

with kingrollo
Dave Ing 26/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Clean onsight lead of P1 & P2, though in the heat almost stacked it when my left hand slipped! Backed off from the belay under the roof as second felt too exposed. Not an easy retreat.

BridgetteB 26/Jul/11 2nd

Great 2nd pitch and surprised myself with the crux. Felt too intimidated by the stance of the belay to complete the climb.

with Dave Ing
Stanners 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Fantastic route, but worryingly hollow sounding flake you have to pull on half way up. Difficult last pitch with a fairly heavy backpack on. Dyno version next time!

Quarryboy 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing but the position and the situations on it make it feel very serious and intimidating for the grade.

Hidden 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 19/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
with Harry K
karenhh 19/Jun/11 AltLd

Nice climb, but very very loose cream and beautiful view on the top~

Tom Brierley Gore 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, especially with the thought of ice-cream at the top :D Be very careful of loose rock on this climb, when we climbed it i came across a large chunk of rock half way up the middle pitch that was loose but heavy enough not to come off when pulled on... i could actually lift it slightly to remove gear.

andy dunn 14/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

Led P1 & 3

with Big Ben
Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
scorpia97 27/May/11 AltLd rpt

done in 2 pitches, I lead to start of groove under roof, will finished

stvredmond 21/May/11 AltLd

Led P2. Was high in VS, got very exposed very quickly. well worth its 2 stars

Hidden 21/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead
HarryB 04/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 3, found the traverse under the roof harder then pulling through but overall the route wasnt a difficult as I expected

with Al
richtea21 ?/May/11 AltLd
with S.Pelly
Phil PBC ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
arandall 25/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Pitch's 1 and 3, my second finished the 2nd pitch in the wrong place so most of the 3rd pitch was missed.

with Isaac Whitcombe
Slick 19/Apr/11 Lead
with David Q
David Qualtrough 19/Apr/11 2nd
Slick 18/Apr/11 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
sdi 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom K
crossdressingrodney 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with john h
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Rob Exile Ward 19/Mar/11 Lead

2nd pitch -trickier than I remember from 40 years ago! Beautiful sunny afternoon.

with Sam Ward
Greg Pittam 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, Sophie lead P1 and P3

with Sophie Keltie
andy dunn 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Led all pitches - Really enjoyed the pull out onto the arete on the 2nd pitch along with the start of the 3rd.

with J, Alan
Jim Tan ?/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Jan/11 Lead dnf
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
31770 ??/2011 -
kelliroberts3 ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Toby Stead
Kevster 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with ah
TDembrey 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Scrambled P1, Lead P2 and Clay on P3. Little dissapointed with the length of P3 but good climb.

with Clay
Clay C 09/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

We scrambled up to the first belay, Todd led 2nd pitch and I led 3rd.

with Todd
Pete Rigby ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Paul_southgate68 15/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

awesome route,not been that scared for a while and a 99 at the top haha!

with super gav
BeccaSnowden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S

v good - really cool stance at end on p2!!!

with Tom
thomasadixon 09/Jul/10 2nd rpt

Sitting on the belay after p2 is wicked (good route too!).

with Becca
django 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with John Rowe
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
zach.stone 22/Jun/10 2nd β
with Jon Hauser
Gibbo 03/Jun/10 2nd
with Ollie Keynes
localboy 18/May/10 2nd dog
with Simon C
wildrover220 10/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, pretty exposed! Led 2nd pitch

sweenyt 05/May/10 AltLd O/S

P1 + 3. P1 was crap, very vegetated, but the rest was ace.

with Cate
catemuir 05/May/10 AltLd

Henry lead pitch 1 and 3 (pitch 1 really needs clearing, is covered in brambles), I lead pitch 2 - got very scared, but felt so good when I did it!

Jessie Rushbrooke 04/May/10 Lead O/S
with GF
georgeevans88 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Fred_Richard 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Great VS! Scrambled P1, Led P2 and P3. P1 is a bit vegetated but very easy, P2 is quite long with a couple of bold moments (long run between gear and rusty pegs). There is a big dodgy looking block on P2 but not loose yet. P3 is very atmospheric but found it easier technically. definitely 2 stars! Finished at 8:30 ice cream van was gone, dam!

simonf 27/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Chris lead P1 and P2 as single pitch; led P3

with Jane, Chris
Albino 27/Apr/10 2nd
with Fred Richard
PaulWatson 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

1 just a scramble, Led 2, Dave led 3. Nice one, one really tricky move on each of 2nd and 3rd pitches though 2nd pitch easy enough when worked out. Good sticky rock apart from one foot hold on 3!

with Dave P
Tomar 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 04/Mar/10 AltLd rpt

Climbed in an improvised harness made out of slings after forgetting to pack my harness! Chris P2 Tom P3 (P1 is a scramble)

with Tom
tommytuffa 04/Mar/10 AltLd
with chris s
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
jase burnard 25/Oct/09 Lead
suffolknick 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S

good climb, got in a bit tangle on the second pitch crux as i decided not to remove the pegged protection before moving round... :/

with Paul
evhall 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S

harder than before...

with Fletch
Chris Sansum 13/Sep/09 AltLd rpt

Chris/Gary - solo P1, Gary P2, Chris P3

with Gary Lewin
Hidden 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead
Quirina 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
ruaidh 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Ben led first pitch. Footwork on second pitch traverse is crucial, especially since the three belay pegs are rusty *yikes*.

with Ben
Hidden 16/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
evhall 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt

easy - finally lead top pitch too

with J + Mike
lizannday 10/Jun/09 2nd
with Ewan Richards
Ewan Richards 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S

V. vegetated at the bottom, but soon broke out onto decent rock. Gear was pretty sparse - relying on dodgy old pegs for the most part, wished I'd taken tricams! Felt reasonably steep and sustained. Last pitch easier. Should have used the alternative belay on the big ledge-would have saved a lot of faff....

with LizD
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
Feeling bold 01/Jun/09 2nd rpt cream van was still there at 9pm.

with Neil, Cheddar John
Dr Caterpillar 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Calum
deklan 07/May/09 AltLd
with luke
luke13 ?/May/09 AltLd
with Dec
Hidden 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
jh5638 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/09 Lead O/S
scorpia97 07/Jan/09 2nd O/S

P2 detour on HVS 4c.

with Caspian
MagnusL 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

came *very* close to taking whipper after my foot slipped which certainly added to the 'atmosphere' :)

with My mate Paul
Kenemo ??/2009 -
CarolineH 12/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 03/Oct/08 Lead rpt
John Dale 05/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave Wagg
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd
georgeevans88 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with Emily K
georgeevans88 01/May/08 Lead O/S
with Harry H
Hidden 26/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
dzlhodgson 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Alan linked first three pitches. Quite exposed at times and with a few "interestingly polished" holds.

with Alan Sage
Hidden 16/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Marti999 09/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Marti999 09/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
RagingPuffin 17/Feb/08 AltLd rpt

Lead 3rd pitch

with Andy Hayes
Al Franks 17/Feb/08 AltLd rpt
with Andy Hayes
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Lead rpt
67hours 13/Feb/08 2nd
with douglas
georgeevans88 ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
catemuir ?/Jan/08 2nd
with Harry Allan
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Humpty Dangler 14/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

First pitch 'a bit green'; I'd suggest a sit-on lawn mower rather than secateurs; leaves the rock shoes nice and greasy for pitch 2, which used to be two pitches before the second belay stance collapsed, (my 1990s guidebook is out of date). Worryingly loose chunks of rock at head height came off when touched (the orange stuff on the left). Some interesting and varied moves made this climb a real pleasure. The final pitch has a delicately balanced traverse 6 - 8 ft followed by a pull-through described by the book as 'surprisingly difficult', but in fact protected by two very solid pegs and served by more than adequate hand holds. Above this move the finish was easy, the only complication being the impossibility of verbal communication with the climbing partner. Radios are always a good idea at Avon. Emerging right next to the van rewards the climber with the combined smells of ice-cream and diesel fumes along with a crowd of interested pedestrians. Take an old krab to give to a fascinated small child and inspire the next generation.

Hidden 14/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
CarolineH 07/Oct/07 2nd
with Dave
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Emily
Al Franks 05/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

RagingPuffin 05/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Lead middle pitch

with Sam Howell
Dale ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

good adenture

with johny
deklan ?/Sep/07 Lead
with lord harry
jamestryfan 05/Aug/07 Solo O/S

A quick evening's solo using a top rope and the shunt. Found an extender perched on the bushes!

thomasadixon 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Feeling bold 28/Jul/07 2nd
Chris Sansum 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Quite bold in places! Nice climb apart from the first pitch, where you have to do some gardening (take seceteurs next time!). The approach path is quite overgrown, and would benefit from some gardening too.

with Weilin Wang
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor 01/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led optional middle pitch up slab to roof. Overhang sections not too bad. Ice cream van drove off as i came over the fence!!

with 31770
django ?/May/07 2nd O/S
with John Rowe
Hidden 15/Apr/07 AltLd rpt
jon bradley ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Huw Howells
mol 16/Sep/06 AltLd
with Dave
chiverstom 28/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1+2

with Jonny
Hidden 28/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 04/May/06 AltLd O/S

P1 scramble. I led P2, Sandy led P3.

with Clare & Sandy
Fat Tim 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Lev 22/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Bux ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches

with Rupert Bassadone
phsharpy 05/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Bethan Davies
Marcus ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S

Climbed before and after rockfall, now two pitches of sustained 4c.

with Noel Duffy
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Richard Hall ??/2006 -

Many times

Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Tamlyn ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Rob Slacks
Andrew Barker ?/May/05 AltLd O/S

Month a guess

with Dave Peachey
Hidden 16/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
al99 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ?/Nov/04 Lead rpt
furry 20/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
jakeclimber ?/May/04 Lead
with Rupert Rosedale
Mark Davies PK ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Digger 20/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with James Latham
Paz ?/Jul/03 Solo rpt
Jim Brooke 18/May/02 2nd rpt
with Rich
richsmithinbristol 18/May/02 AltLd
tomkhoward ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Unknown
markysums ??/2002 -
simon kimber ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
greedo ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Various red rope chaps, Colin knowles
CurlyStevo ??/2001 AltLd
cornishben ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Boxy 15/Nov/99 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 13/Jun/99 AltLd
Jim Brooke 27/Mar/99 AltLd rpt
with Vic, Liz Cant
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
Jim Brooke 31/Jan/98 AltLd rpt
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Jim Brooke 21/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
with James Latham
pezzerrr ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
colin milton 22/Sep/96 AltLd

lead p1 and 3. excellent

with eric milton
richsmithinbristol 12/Jun/96 Lead

Darb weekend of VS

jim_randell 05/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with FW
AndySL 01/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Mark
GAtkins 01/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Linnegar
chris sm 28/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
Okecroak 27/Sep/92 AltLd
with M Mercy
Budge ?/Jun/92 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead
GAtkins 01/May/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Russell
GAtkins 01/Sep/91 2nd O/S
with Bob Linnegar, Andy Russell, Nick Stenning
mikej 13/May/88 Lead
with Robert Smith
mark-abz 05/Mar/88 AltLd
with Andy W
AndyB123 ??/1988 Lead
with Andy E
Tony Buckley ?/Jun/87 AltLd
with Robert Clark
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
clark alston ?/Oct/85 AltLd O/S

With Peter Jones I think.

Pete Nugent 03/Feb/85 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC), Andy Kitchen
JamieAyres ??/1985 AltLd dog
with Peter Rickard
andy gittins ??/1983 -
John Marsland ?/Dec/82 2nd
with Tony Rex
leland stamper ?/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with pete crutchley
AlanLittle ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd O/S
stp 30/May/81 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/79 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
Hidden 21/Aug/77 AltLd
Mark Kemball 10/May/75 Lead
with Norman
Andy Chubb ??/1975 2nd
with Pete Watts
Nigel Bond 03/Aug/74 -
with Pete Dainty
Nigel Bond 20/Jul/74 AltLd
with Dave Jolliffe, Alan
tapley 31/Oct/73 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/72 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 15/Jun/72 Lead
with John Williams
Martin Bennett 06/Sep/71 -
with JD
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
44 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set