Rockfax Description
An Avon trade route that, although polished, is still a very classy piece of climbing. It is worth noting that the long runout on the second pitch is not polished. Start at a corner, right of some vegetation. High in the grade.
1) 4a, 12m. Bridge up the corner to below a small overhang and cracked block. Traverse left awkwardly and move up to a small tree and belay ledge just above.
2) 4a, 22m. Pull out right to a ledge beneath a corner. Move up and right around the arete and follow the magnificent line of good holds and ledges boldly rightwards and up to a grassy ledge. Continue to the fir tree belay above with a difficult move to access the ledge.
3) 4a, 20m. Above the fir tree is a right-slanting corner, move up to its start and then traverse right for around 4m to a line of well-used holds on the wall. Climb the wall to an easing and then head left on easy ground to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Avon sub-VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist.

The Ivanator 23/Sep AltLd O/S

Lead to pine tree in one pitch and did the HS variant start - one stiff move. Rob led last pitch.

with Rob
Rp20 19/Sep AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 23/Aug Solo rpt

Lovely evening light. Forgot how polished it is ...

Legs 31/Jul AltLd
Rob Morgan 31/Jul AltLd

Led P2.

with Max
badgerjockey 29/Jul AltLd O/S

Probably done before. Dans first lead on trad. Lovely climb at the grade with Avony run outs.

with Dan M
TGHB 24/Jul AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches, but would advise to just ab down from the end of the 2nd. Middle is a bit shiny but plenty of gear placement, 3rd pitch super easy but a big run out

Gibbo 08/Jul AltLd
with James Thompson
Eeep 13/Jun Lead
routrax 04/Jun 2nd dnf

Linked p1&2, then it pissed down. Abbed off, not great climbing in the wet!

with Dan
danjouan 04/Jun Lead O/S

Washed off in heavy rain- Escaped from top of second pitch.

with Steve
Hidden 01/Jun AltLd
adawson 01/Jun AltLd

Led the final pitch

G Weatherley 28/May AltLd O/S

Led P1&3

with Sophie Philbrick
alasdaircavaye 27/May AltLd

You'll be lucky to find more than one peice of decent gear per pitch.

with Joseph Camfield
Ashley King 14/May 2nd

Couple of interesting moves on the first pitch, other than that fairly standard, last pitch is short but great fun.

with Emily Hunt
AWalker96 10/May Lead O/S

Accidently missed first belay point by continuing up instead of traversing across to small tree. Made things interesting but had good gear placement so wasn't a problem.

with Megan Clark
NigelHurst 10/May 2nd O/S

first 2 pitches as one, final pitch is well polished. First climb in avon gorge for me so enjoyed.

matt_batchelor 07/May Lead dnf
Rachel Hodge 07/May 2nd

Polished! Seconded all 3 pitches.

with Chris
Hidden 07/May -
Angrypenguin 06/May 2nd rpt
with Cat
catty_9 06/May Lead

Led P1 and P2 run together so we could ab off the pine tree and rescue the gear Pete abandoned on Padansac

haribotheclimber 06/May Lead O/S
with Ed babs
Ed Babs 06/May 2nd O/S
with Harrison
mcrispin 04/May 2nd rpt
Chris Harbour 24/Apr 2nd O/S
with Chris Cookson
c357 24/Apr Lead rpt
RWB1986 23/Apr Lead O/S
Reesclimbs 23/Apr 2nd
with RWB1986
jammy4536 22/Apr Solo rpt
JakeBest 25/Mar 2nd rpt

Red hex left behind in the shifty looking cracked piece half way up the first pitch. Good luck getting it out. Climb ended early due to nearby accident.

with Francois, Floris
florisvanelteren 25/Mar 2nd

up to the fir tree only

JakeBest 18/Mar Lead O/S

First two pitches together and abseiled from the fir tree. Fun climb with a lot of rope drag by the top ledges, keep right for a good feeling of exposure but with bomber protection from the central crack.

jessie 11/Mar 2nd O/S
with Ciaran
Hidden 11/Mar Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 07/Mar Solo O/S
Digga 13/Feb Lead RP
rosso 26/Jan Lead
with Faye , Faye
faye 26/Jan 2nd O/S
ElBarto 03/Jan AltLd

Seconded pitch 1 & led most of pitch 2 except the very last moves which I had to get Terry to do. Abseiled off the tree on the second pitch so didn't do the third.

Big_T 03/Jan AltLd rpt
with Neil
Donny M ??/2017 Lead
with Bob the Sendor
Simon_Freeman 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S
with henry
Dave Latimer 21/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 21/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
riff156 11/Dec/16 Lead rpt

Just went to tree and ab'd off

with slartybartfast, Jo Smith
my 27/Nov/16 AltLd rpt

Me P1/p3, matt t p2

Hidden 27/Nov/16 AltLd β
fharnish13 25/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with Tim Exley
LanceSolf 05/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Ryan Barrett
Jim blackford 03/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Arthur
Lil_Pete 30/Oct/16 Solo rpt
alexpcox 29/Oct/16 2nd

First pitch only

with Lance
LanceSolf 29/Oct/16 Lead rpt

1st Pitch Only

LanceSolf 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Yulia's 1st Trad

with Yulia Solf
TommyKips 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Marti999 19/Oct/16 Lead rpt
jcking231 16/Oct/16 Lead RP

Emmas first multipitch!

with Emma Lewin, Louis Raettig
Hidden 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
That Dude With The Beanie 08/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Topped out properly this time.

with my Father
Jack Luke 02/Oct/16 Lead

Strung together first two pitches. Spicy wee route! Polished nature adds interest.

with Me Da'
Tonebear 22/Sep/16 2nd
andrew549 22/Sep/16 Lead
with Tony
AAhmed 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with ngreen, Maria Curle
Thwaites 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Grant
edgar_spaten 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Dad
Larey 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Megan
Megan.richardson1 11/Sep/16 2nd
Trevers 08/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with Rachael
Big_T 28/Aug/16 Lead

Did the first 2 pitches as 1 then ab'd off the tree.

with Neil
ElBarto 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Only did the first two pitches - just seemed easier to abseil off the tree at the top of pitch too as there's a chain around it.

lucyvass 24/Aug/16 Lead

Managed to create a lot of rope drag so had an interesting time getting to the fir tree belay!

with nathan
nathanjmasters 24/Aug/16 2nd
foobar123 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2 slightly more direct than the guidebook suggests. Great climbing throughout

with Robbie Cecere
d.heard 23/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch.

my 23/Aug/16 AltLd

Me P1, P3. Tricky in places, adequate gear. Good route.

with George
Anouk Spelt 23/Aug/16 AltLd

My first lead with my own gear! Wool wool!

with d.heard
Rmjmarlow 22/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Cardwell
That Dude With The Beanie 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great climb, even in the drizzle. Ate lunch on the fir-tree ledge.

with The-Fall-King, That Other One
The-Fall-King 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Two pitches: first to the small tree, second finishing at the fir tree ledge.

DavidWilby 16/Aug/16 Lead dog

Had little recollection of this route for some reason... Took a little slip off the wall just before the first tree, otherwise all good. Pretty characterful, if a bit run out.

with Zolly
TrevorCruse 11/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Malcolm
67hours 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
wilkinscl 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very steady though the polish adds interest.

with Katharine
alan1234 17/Jul/16 Lead
Meinertzhagen 17/Jul/16 AltLd

Led last pitch

with Christopher Lyus
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
edjenkins 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Chris Bunce
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Ian Slark ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
c357 08/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 & 3

leobold 07/Jun/16 -
Hidden 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S
PastyBoy84 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Carl's first multi-pitch

Stanners 02/Jun/16 Solo rpt
Jelly Mould Surfer 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S

I may of done this 30 years ago. Gaining the ledge of the pine tree is a bit tricky.

Phil Anderson ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Mike
HendrikTBB 29/May/16 AltLd rpt

Lead other pitches to previous ascent so have now lead all pitches once.

with Julian
musgravet 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Alison Hodkin
Hexman 25/May/16 2nd
AndySL 24/May/16 Lead
with Justin
Tom Brierley Gore 24/May/16 2nd rpt
dpiddock 24/May/16 AltLd O/S

I led P2

with Chris P
cpoad 24/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Dan P
hutchay 17/May/16 Solo rpt
MarkCunnington 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 1 and 2

with Jodi Sudgen
d.heard 15/May/16 2nd rpt

Ab'd from tree to get to the pub!

with Matt H
miriamclaire 15/May/16 AltLd

Split into two pitches, I led the first hutch led second

with hutchay
hutchay 15/May/16 AltLd rpt
mattharper 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with David Heard
leobold 13/May/16 Lead O/S
haydng 08/May/16 AltLd rpt
with RachelG
laurence_falconer 07/May/16 Solo
gingerbex 04/May/16 Lead rpt
Nathan Chrismas 04/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Dave
alastairbegley 04/May/16 2nd O/S
DavidWilby 04/May/16 AltLd O/S

Nathan lead P1&3, I lead P2.

with Nathan
laurence_falconer 03/May/16 Solo

Finished last pitch of sleepwalk to avoid seeping

Hidden 01/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/16 AltLd
HendrikTBB 26/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Claireybloomers 20/Apr/16 2nd
with Tom Rogers, Andy
laurence_falconer 20/Apr/16 Lead

Stayed in the groove rather than stepping right, and took the left hand option on the second pitch, very enjoyable!

lucyvass 20/Apr/16 2nd dog
andy dunn 20/Apr/16 Lead
with Claire, Tom
clipskipper 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Climbed the RH VS variation. Ran the first two pitches together - makes more sense

with Robert
Rob Moorcroft 17/Apr/16 Lead

Had a bunch of 20 or so teenagers at the top throwing rocks off, so decided to stay close to my belay to keep an eye on it. Bloody chavs.

with Tom Hopkins
kingjam 10/Apr/16 AltLd

Led final pitch

BarrySW19 10/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Probably deserves HS for the polish on the route - certainly deserves the fluttery heart symbol for the polished last pitch with virtually no gear (I think I placed one piece).

d.heard 05/Apr/16 2nd
with KatePG, Ali
WillAndrew 05/Apr/16 Lead rpt

To the tree with Tom & Matt!

with Tom N
ali.scott 05/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Kate's first outdoor climb and David's first multipitch.

with David H, KatePG
KatePG 05/Apr/16 2nd
with d.heard, Ali
91dave 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
label 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Lina Arthur, 91dave
Hidden 02/Apr/16 AltLd
Marcin78 ?/Apr/16 AltLd
with Tomek
will_lake 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Richardlake 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Up to the tree then abseiled off. Just to do something that wasn't falling off or backing off...

PanzerHanzler 24/Mar/16 Lead O/S

First climb in the Avon Gorge - not as polished as some comments would have you believe. Enjoyable route, ran P1&2 together.

Lynn Robin 24/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/16 AltLd
rosso 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
UBES_Bristol_Expeditions 21/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 17/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/16 2nd
nathanjmasters 12/Mar/16 Lead
jcking231 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Nice route and a good warm up for the other multi-pitches at Sea Walls

Moritz L 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

3rd pitch wet so went to corner 25m left

with James, Alice
Digga 11/Mar/16 AltLd

Ran first two pitches together. Good steady moves and polish not too bad though found the groove on p2 a bit bold. Finished up final pitch of Sleepwalk as the darkness descended.

with Alice, Moritz
CasualLime 11/Mar/16 AltLd

Climbed first two pitches, did the last pitch of a HVS to the left as the final pitch looked a bit simple.

TomGudgeon 09/Mar/16 Lead O/S

so polished it felt like ice skating vertically.

Hidden 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S

First route in Avon gorge. Not a great route, made more interesting by polish rather than difficulty. Pitch 1 and 2 together.

cem 05/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Led p1 & 2 in one.

with Tim Meehan
leland stamper 05/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Ice cream at the top! Rain held off. Still got scared of the damp at the top

with Cem
Hidden 05/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
miltonwakefield 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Smelda
Hidden 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Claire Noble 26/Feb/16 2nd
with Declan, Jono
JonoDHawkins 26/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with Claire
Doug miller 14/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Eagertom 14/Feb/16 Solo rpt
Bristol_Quornstar 05/Feb/16 Lead O/S

...and then the rain came in!

with Sverre Aarseth Tunstad
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 05/Feb/16 2nd O/S
WillAndrew 03/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
with Dylan, Cara
Dale Finnie ??/2016 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 27/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
jhobbs 02/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 3. Pitch two absolute class. Much better route than Morpheus.

with Elliott Clark
Pohil 14/Oct/15 Lead

Multi pitch teaching session 2. Confident second.

with Charles
laurence_falconer 04/Oct/15 -
Hidden 01/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 01/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Footiemadhannah 27/Sep/15 Lead

Did this in 3 pitches. Leon lead pitch 1, I then lead 3, it was quite a long travers with no gear for a while. Had to set up an early belay just before the ledge as a group of slower climbers were in front. Weather was stunning!

Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd
smartydh9 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
JoeMortimer 26/Sep/15 AltLd
Doug miller 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd
9fingerjon 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Angrypenguin 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Scrambled P1, lead P3. Polished and uninspiring. Would run P1 and 2 together next time.

with Cat
jon_gill1 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

i led p1 and p2 in one and mart did pitch 3. Lovely climbing on great rock

with martin johnson
catty_9 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

We scrambled P1, I led P2 and Peter led P3. As polished as expected

Rob Moorcroft 28/Aug/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Hidden 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
David Maddison 21/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead
Morgan Specht 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Melonfly ?/Aug/15 Lead

Awesome sunset route.

with Meg
lawlolly 29/Jul/15 2nd O/S


samvick1991 29/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
edjenkins 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

First multipitch route for Chris

with Chris Bunce
pnorth 08/Jul/15 AltLd

Top pitch of sleepwalk (I think) - big juggy 4a corner crack.

with Mark Ackroyd TSCC
mackroyd 08/Jul/15 AltLd
with Patrick North
lukerathmell 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Will Bithell
nickmoulden 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
Legs 23/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 23/Jun/15 2nd
Jan.Hrb 20/Jun/15 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Jan Hrbacek
jammy4536 16/Jun/15 Solo rpt
danieleaston 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth
monkeyru 11/Jun/15 2nd
with Dan
Patrick Clissold 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Will Laws
Dr Toph 08/Jun/15 Solo O/S

nice P2. Nothing is a nightmare except the polish on p3

KittyKat 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Holly Warder, Carmel
nickwhimster 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
anthonylewis 07/Jun/15 2nd β
with Nick
Lizziemay 05/Jun/15 2nd O/S

First trad climb and multi-pitch. Did not lead but removed the reset, then removed gear in order to practice.

with Matt
Hidden 04/Jun/15 2nd dog
aiyer ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
HowieB 26/May/15 Lead
with Heather
mrdaniel 21/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/15 Lead
Owen W-G 16/May/15 Lead O/S

In a oner to fir tree to retrieve gear from aborted attempt on Padansac. Found it surprisingly stressful, polished, run out, awkward gear, not very confidence inspiring!

with Pete
Trevers 15/May/15 Lead
with BStar
Hidden 15/May/15 2nd
BStar 15/May/15 2nd
with Trevers
jammy4536 13/May/15 Solo rpt

First did Nightmare up to the tree then final pitch of sleepwalk, before doing Nightmare fully. Really fun to solo

WillAndrew 12/May/15 2nd O/S
with Ali
alexcollins123 10/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
tomaca12 10/May/15 AltLd O/S
hutchay 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Luke Sonnex
Hidden 22/Apr/15 AltLd
duncanedgley 22/Apr/15 Lead
with Bethany, Alex Waldron
Lyndsay Superclimber 22/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

with Ryan
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
ali.scott 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
JGriffiths 14/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Done in two pitches. Second pitch was too far left of the correct route

with Gravy
Kemics 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Mel ran first two together. I led top pitch, last time had abbed from tree. Definitely polished. Nice late afternoon climb after college

with Mel
thompsonjr21 14/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Ross B 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Larey 10/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with carl
BStar 10/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with Phil Bischler
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Solo rpt
felixizzy 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt

First pitch

with Jack
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Jim-Roberts-1987 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tony McPhillips
Melonfly ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Caleb
avonclimber 31/Mar/15 Lead

P1 only

Alex Wieczorek 31/Mar/15 2nd O/S

First pitch only, rain cancelled play...

Jack Porteous 31/Mar/15 AltLd
benjaminloveday 27/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Solo rpt
JamesRich 14/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

Decided to abseil from the tree as the top pitch was soaking

with Lewis
Hidden 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/15 2nd
Rebs 12/Mar/15 Lead rpt

Third time lucky, finally finished the entire route!!

Legs 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch which was the best. Top pitch was a bit damp. A nice warm up to Avon style trad climbing!

Hidden 06/Mar/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Solo O/S
JoeE 12/Feb/15 Solo

First Proper solo, climbed first on top rope. Very polished but some nice moves :)

JoeE 16/Jan/15 Lead
AshBarnes 16/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Nice n simple.

Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Lukem6 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Jenny Monkey 01/Dec/14 AltLd
jungle 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Climbed direct to second belay. Didn't complete final pitch as it was soaked

with Chris Pike
Hidden 14/Nov/14 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 14/Nov/14 2nd
RKirke 30/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Shane, Andy French
Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
dbm 05/Oct/14 AltLd rpt

Lead P2

with Steve Hind
Marcin78 ?/Oct/14 Lead
with Karol
Marcin78 ?/Oct/14 2nd
with Karol
Hidden ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
timstyles 25/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Me P1+3, Huw P2

with Huw Howells
AngelaC 23/Sep/14 AltLd
with Jeremy
Hidden 23/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd
Richardlake 13/Sep/14 AltLd β

Climbed before a year ago.

will_lake 13/Sep/14 AltLd β
Hidden 09/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Paul Eckton 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Garyearl616 23/Aug/14 Lead
with Danny Adams
corinrathbone 21/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Łukasz Harazin
LucasHarazin 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 08/Aug/14 Solo O/S

A fighter jet was up to all sorts of nonsense on the other side of the the gorge.

nwakeman 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah Laight
sarahlaight 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S

it was a nightmare!

Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
wjcdean 01/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lead P1 and P3. The move to the belay at the top of the first pitch took some working out but was actually okay. dont particularly feel like it's hard in the grade, but i didnt have to tackle the runout on P2 to be fair.

BStar 01/Aug/14 AltLd rpt


Keelan McNulty ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tim Harper 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We might have gone slightly off route on the final pitch staying too far left which made for a much more interesting finish!!

Cheese Monkey 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Vienna
Jlewis01 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Phil Layton 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Lazytraveller 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
PaulWatson 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S

This was Dave's new version, direct from the ground, a nice clean route with no polish and a nice 4B / 4C move

with DaveTalbot
Rachael88 15/Jul/14 2nd

Really enjoyed the climb, quite pumped after the second don't think the lay backing helped!

with Adam
BStar 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Slightly run out on P2 and P3, some balancy moves but good climbing on good holds throughout.

with Rachael
Keelan McNulty 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Helen Baldwin, Jon Hardman, Sam Talbot
Zerocks 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Sian
sianabanana 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Merten
Rob Morgan 10/Jul/14 Lead
Keelan McNulty 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 02/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Callum Smith 02/Jul/14 AltLd
Dave Thompson 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
gavin.edwards 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Wheeler
HardmanJ ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Feeling bold 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Neville
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Feeling bold 19/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Repeat..still slippery.

with Tom (lead) and Andrew
Emily 15/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

I led pitches 1 and 3. The first one was kind of awkward, enjoyed the third more. Think I made things a bit difficult for myself on pitch 2 by going straight up the groove before moving right.

with Nick
Nick Russell 15/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

I led P2

with Emily
Lewis201 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BruceW 25/May/14 Lead rpt
with Becca
ben.richards 18/May/14 AltLd β
with Alex Burt
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
saraguti 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with axford studios
Slick 16/May/14 AltLd
wilsers 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Tristan led pitches 1 & 3. I led pitch 2. Took me a while to find the move to get off the ledge and up the corner. Having to wear Tristan's spare shoes didn't help - very painful. That'll teach me not to forget my shoes again!

Hidden 16/May/14 Lead
sadlerbrett 15/May/14 2nd O/S
with Alex Roberts
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd rpt
drgrange 30/Apr/14 AltLd
with Ali
BALD EAGLE 29/Apr/14 AltLd
with James Pomeroy, Diane Bent
Poco Loco 29/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Lead p1 and p2 in a oner to the big tree ledge.

with diane, Bald Eagle
Ricky Rocks 25/Apr/14 Solo
alexporter 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Naomi Dalton
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
tc7118 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead
Davidchatterton 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S
joeallen28 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Enjoyable climbing throughout - went massively off-route at top of last pitch onto something more like VS/HVS ground with absolutely no gear and desperate holds! Some seriously polished holds near top of 2nd pitch below tree.

Danslingsby 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
John Cornish 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Gavin Edwards
gavin.edwards 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
corinrathbone 09/Apr/14 2nd

P1 only.

Hidden 23/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
cteakle 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Danny
dmetcalfe 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Claire
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
duncanedgley 12/Mar/14 2nd
with Laura Shaw, Matthew Hill
laurashaw 12/Mar/14 Lead β

Climbed in two pitches instead of three. Very little gear in the last section but nice climbing.

with Matthew Hill, Duncan Edgley
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd
Dino Dave 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Paul AMC
David Maddison 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead
John Cornish 09/Mar/14 2nd

First outdoor climb since 2007. First ever multipitch.

with Gavin
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd
gavin.edwards 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
C@rwyn 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Flo
riff156 02/Mar/14 AltLd
with Hannahc
HannahC 02/Mar/14 AltLd

Lead P1

David Staples ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Mpaynter 24/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
dmetcalfe 23/Feb/14 AltLd

Lead p1 and p3. Nice climb

with Mike P
jezb1 19/Feb/14 Lead


robertcollier 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Bottled it just after 1st belay ledge, should be able to climb next time

with Emily Collier
Lazytraveller 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 10/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
youwillfindjimbo ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
AndyRogers 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Polished in places but a lovely line.

with ianlaw
laurashaw 11/Dec/13 Lead dnf

Climbed the first pitch and ran out of time. Some nice moves on solid jugs though!

with Matthew Clark, Emily Ford
Hidden 12/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
kenneM 12/Nov/13 AltLd
with Mike Dudley
kenneM 12/Nov/13 AltLd
with Mike Dudley
George.Rowland 24/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one and three. Gear where you need it on pitch three, which is Slippery when wet(!) (obviously ha).

with sam coppard
Hidden 15/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 15/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 10/Oct/13 Lead O/S
lukimotaka 10/Oct/13 2nd

Not too much of a nightmare, quite enjoyed this. Fairly straightforward

with Josh
zcsharp 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 24/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Climbed the corner on pitch 2 so there was some gear, felt like a very hard severe here.

lukimotaka 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Josh
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Boogs 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A nice romp .

swmackey 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
sarahrowlands 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
richardsavill 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Richardlake 10/Aug/13 Lead
will_lake 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
adamre12 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

OK but very polished

with Jess Addisson
Cheese Monkey 01/Jul/13 Lead β
with Iggy, Mike
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
squicky 01/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Ben, Mike
Tom Harper 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

ended up having to lead the whole climb. very difficult to communicate with belayer due to heavy traffic but still a brilliant climb

Huw Mithan 23/Jun/13 AltLd
with Molly McLeod, Nina Reinschmidt
mollymcleod 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Huw Mithan, Nina Reinschmidt
kateberry118 19/Jun/13 2nd
with rauri brooker, Steven Berry
Webster 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

first 2 pitches lead

David Maddison 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Swsloper 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead dog
mikedevcole 06/Jun/13 2nd

Did in two pitches

laurence_falconer 05/Jun/13 Lead
with Jess Railton
richardsavill 04/Jun/13 AltLd
with jez blake
neiloutdoors 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 3

with SDMC
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
lukeh 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Derrett
JezLeFevre 26/May/13 2nd O/S
with Stu Lade
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead
Patrickmartin99 07/May/13 Lead O/S
with Bosh
est1985 07/May/13 2nd O/S
with Chris Malin
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Steph
Steph Roberts 01/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Sam
Bcrich01 ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 AltLd
Ragingpossum 23/Apr/13 Solo rpt

Climbed swiftly with a good head. Not the same feeling as something steeper. Bit too warm.

Eagertom 22/Apr/13 Solo O/S

First lengthy solo. Timed myself and was quite pleased with the result. I'll have to try a few more Severe's in the gorge when the weather's good enough

Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd
Iron Face 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Unfinished business, bailed off second tree.

with Cerys
aylabarratt17 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Clive
cpoad 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Oliver C
Hidden 14/Apr/13 2nd dnf
jayyaj 14/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Bailed from the fir tree at the end of P2 when it started raining.

Joshthomas 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
cem 01/Apr/13 Lead rpt

P 1 & 2. COLD

Kirill 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
johnnyhobo 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Colin Baker
Neil D 09/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Took corner direct for final pitch - hard (maybe VS?)

Griff1990 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 18/Feb/13 2nd dnf


with Mike, Peter
pheotleyr 18/Feb/13 Lead dnf

first 1 1/2 pitches to the highest of the small trees. a nice warmup.

with Ben, Mike
Hidden 18/Feb/13 2nd dnf
crimpylewis 17/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd
Rebs 07/Feb/13 2nd
laurence_falconer 07/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Completed in drizly conditions, which made the polished moves more tricky than they should have been! Last pitch has very limited proection but is quite simple climbing

HarryB 07/Feb/13 Solo rpt
jacksonm1 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Will Homoky 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Whitton
AndySL ??/2013 Lead G/U
with Deano
Jonnie Watkins ??/2013 -
GouldHarry ??/2013 Lead O/S
GuitarGenius92 09/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the first and third pitches. Gear fell out whilst half way up the third pitch, made the finish pretty hairy.

Mark Salter 06/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Patrickmartin99 ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 13/Nov/12 2nd RP
thomasadixon 27/Oct/12 Solo O/S
riff156 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
Hidden 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
iantoday 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 and 3

10029759 21/Oct/12 AltLd
hairy51 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Kemics 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Warm up, climbed fast. Quite well protected, better than sleepwalk at least.

Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead
Stuart William 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Did direct finish.

with Pleb
Pleb 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with 2PointO
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Dave Ing 11/Sep/12 TR O/S

To retrieve gear, finished soloing up Sleepwalk

Deary65 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
Nick Russell 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt

First climb for about 8 weeks after injury

with Emily
Mlongman 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Davis
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jarodbishop ?/Sep/12 AltLd
with Richard
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ollie.turner226 13/Aug/12 AltLd
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
alexporter 10/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Started to get benighted at second belay so abseiled of.

Tom Brierley Gore 09/Aug/12 Solo O/S

perhaps a bit tooo polished for a solo onsight :/

Hidden 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Neil Stansbie 03/Aug/12 2nd
with adam parslow
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
Samuel Cox 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Done in two pitches

with Diane
maresia 24/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Client
steve-grigg 23/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
pattisonr 01/Jul/12 AltLd
with Steve Ryan
Davebryant ?/Jul/12 Solo O/S
SteveRyan 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Great evening climb in perfect weather.

with Rob Pattison
maresia 21/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Abseiled off when the heavens opened!

with Claire Lawrence
stafford101 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Took the VS 4c variation straight up the corner on P3. Thin and bold for a few moves.

George Frisby 18/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
steveprice.exmouth 04/Jun/12 AltLd

led p12

with David Coley
Brian Moseley 03/Jun/12 2nd O/S
riff156 31/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Bob Hotchkis
allykat 30/May/12 2nd O/S
with Sam
Bonkers Dog 30/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
panda70 26/May/12 Lead

Polish makes it interesting on a few moves, but a great evening!

with Alastair Blanshard
Quarryboy 26/May/12 2nd O/S

Did the variation this time, all three of us were definitely regretting climbing this in the full heat of the sea walls suntrap.

with Jason and friends
Hidden 23/May/12 AltLd
AndyMcCoy 19/May/12 AltLd

Led 2

with Tom
birthers 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

TB P1,3, AM P2.

Hidden 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
pheotleyr 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jana
daverichris 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Si Carter 14/Apr/12 AltLd

Wet second pitch. Just got away with the weather.

with Colin Tiley
Pete Rigby ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
Kyle87 ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead
gingerbex 29/Mar/12 2nd
with Dave Chandler, Shona Mackie
cdent 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Joe Innes 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
stafford101 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S

An excellent route with an atmospheric line. A bit polished in places, and scarce gear placements in some places.

George Frisby 14/Mar/12 2nd
with Chris
Voltemands 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Good route to practice being well above your runners. Very low in the grade. Last pitch a little polished.

Slick 10/Mar/12 Lead
with Kevin Vans-Colina
ben.richards 10/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
ron244 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Rich Sumner
LouiseP 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, didn't do pitch 3 as it was wet.

with Ross
Hidden 11/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Ragingpossum 09/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

I Led 1st and 3rd, Harry led the very bold 2nd pitch.

with Sam Mitchell, harry kingston
Sam Mitchell 09/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Will Bourne, Harry Kingston
climbingchica 07/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

first two pitches only, lead second pitch

Hidden 02/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
l.faulkner ?/Feb/12 2nd
Dean177 ?/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 21/Jan/12 Solo rpt

Alternative finish up the corner

Hidden 15/Jan/12 2nd
Ian JL 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Ruth ND 08/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Ev
evhall 08/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Ruth
Hidden 06/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 ?/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Rhodri, l.faulkner
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
Eagertom ??/2012 AltLd
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
gary.earl ??/2012 Lead
Robertspd2 ??/2012 2nd

multiple times

tomc 28/Dec/11 Lead β
squicky 27/Dec/11 2nd rpt
with rg1976
rg1976 27/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with squicky
fragglerock 11/Dec/11 AltLd β

Slightly wet-weather-style repeat in trainers. DL: P1 JL: P2

evilweed 11/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Dan
katherinesydney 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 22/Nov/11 AltLd rpt
Dave89 20/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Only did first 2 pitches and abbed off tree little bold, but not hard.

with Chris k
pffft 20/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with Dave, Chris Kmiec
Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Solo rpt
squicky 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with George
Bobling 16/Oct/11 Lead

First two pitches and then abbed as some jokers were having an abb-fest down the last pitch. Quality climb, typical Avon buldging polished fun.

with Jackie
Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd O/S
pffft 05/Oct/11 Lead rpt

repeat ascent, though I have no recollection of the first time. Lovely route, easy 2nd pitch though practically no gear. Didn't take the guide book and ended going up the corner which was bold and quite challenging.

Lil_Pete 02/Oct/11 Solo rpt

After heading up Thursday with mates and enjoying it, went back for a fun little solo on a Sunday morning. Ice-cream at the top to finish it off. Damn hot day!

HarryB 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Jonny Raines 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Lil_Pete 29/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Nice meander up, taking Na'i and Nick on there first Trad adventure :)

with Nick Allan, Naomi Howard-Kyan
carl_123 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 03/Sep/11 AltLd
halfwaythere 03/Sep/11 AltLd β

third pitch starts 3 metres right from corner btw!

joedoherty 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
wurzelinzummerset ?/Sep/11 2nd

A good route. Very near top traversed right and ended up somewhere right of Flash Gordon's Trip to mars which made things... interesting.

with Carl
matt25 31/Aug/11 AltLd

easy but bold climbing

Hidden 31/Aug/11 AltLd
Nick Russell 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/11 AltLd
Maddi O'Brien 22/Aug/11 2nd
with Dean Merchant
DerwentDiluted 21/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/11 AltLd
JamesRich 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches. It's quite polished and a bit bold in places but an enjoyable route.

with Paul Rich
groliver26 29/Jul/11 2nd
jon_ridley 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Neil D 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led up to tree in one pitch. Beth led off to the left up final pitch of sleepwalk?

Rory Southworth 19/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Gabe Oliver
Prez 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Kevin
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
j miller 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jas128 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead p1&3

Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
RiPomc 11/Jun/11 Lead
JCookie 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Richard Plater
andy dunn 07/Jun/11 AltLd
with Big Ben
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
colinkeb 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S

did the first two pitches then carried on with the last two pitches of gronk.

Abs 23/May/11 2nd
with Iain Afshar, Diane Bent
Hidden 23/May/11 2nd
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead O/S
DanMc 17/May/11 Lead O/S

I dont think I followed the exact route and finished at the tree as I didnt want to walk down.

Tarquin 06/May/11 -
with Sarah
MGrock 05/May/11 Lead
Monk 02/May/11 Lead rpt
with PerrinT
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd O/S
PerrinT 02/May/11 2nd
with Monkey
rapidrich 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Simon, Coni
PaulWatson 26/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Getting ever shinier and quite bold in parts for a Severe! Led all three pitches, the last move on the second is crux.

with Rosy
rapidrich 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

I lead the first 2 pitches in one go, Simon did the variation finish at the end.

with Simon
TDembrey 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with James
Macca_7 19/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Nice start and mini traverse to the nice airy ledge climbing to the tree. Finished up final pitch of sleepwalk as I was coming down Morpheus! Again!

Fatclimber 09/Apr/11 AltLd β

Led top half of p2 and P3

Quarryboy 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Did this to end the day after relief from doing 5b wall practically soloed the last pitch as I dident really have any gear.

Stanners 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead first two pitches in 1 pitch. 3rd was more of a solo ascent from jack, nice one.

mikeydee135 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Bangs 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Monkey
JamesBritton 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Linked the first two pitches and set up a top rope off the big tree. Abseiling off was quite exciting!

with Jeandr? Van Der Merwe
Katherine Ross 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The first few moves of the second pitch felt quite scary but otherwise not too bad. My Rockfax guidebook was pretty accurate in saying that it's run out and a bit polished in places!

Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Second ever trad climb, and completed as a comfortable lead on wet rock. Many thanks to halfwaythere for giving me the confidence and and advice.

with Pete
sofe13 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Did have a bit of a nightmare, tried to do a very tricky section by mistake on the last pitch. Had I gone the right way it would have been lovely, must do it again.

with Gof
Fatclimber 23/Jan/11 AltLd β

Lead Pitch 2

bonoid ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
onlyfoddington 30/Dec/10 2nd O/S

damp rock

stvredmond 11/Dec/10 AltLd

led pitches 2 and 3

with kelwyn
Shaky Dog 11/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

I did P1, Steve P2 & 3

Stan011 27/Nov/10 2nd
with Mike Coles
Topper Harley 23/Nov/10 AltLd
lostinmidlands 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and the first half of P2. The slab on P3 was wet and slimy so we did the (VS?) direct corner variation.

cas smerdon 13/Nov/10 2nd
halfwaythere ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

Richard James Edmunds 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Jex, Marcus Wood
ISavage 24/Oct/10 Lead

Wet second pitch

Hidden 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Clay C 13/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Johanna
TCarrick 06/Oct/10 2nd O/S
haydng 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Becca
Gaijin 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Nice easy scramble for first trad. ascent! :)

fragglerock 07/Sep/10 Lead O/S

an easy saunter up the obvious line of weakness to reach a large, rock strewn ledge and large tree belay.

tobydunford 04/Sep/10 Solo O/S
chiverstom 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Alice
ambrooker 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Did VS variation for third pitch

with Tom
TDembrey 31/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Jana
LJC 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Ran P1 & P2 together, making first belay by the big fir tree. Luca lead P3. First climb in the Gorge.

Fatclimber 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Didn't read the book carefully enough and couln't find pitch 3!

with Dan
Stan011 28/Aug/10 AltLd
with Mike Coles
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead
aipattison 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Yeti lead as SPA practice. Raining. Seconded with bag!

Yetiyare 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
TDembrey 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jana
luke_judd 10/Jul/10 Lead
with Sarah Smith
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Loubylou 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Ashley, Mike Kann
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Matt Smyth 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead
zach.stone 22/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jon Hauser
scorpia97 22/Jun/10 2nd
with Caspian
martinp 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Adam
cjohn62 20/Jun/10 2nd
with gareth
AdamP 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

with Martin
rbyrne84 19/Jun/10 Lead

Difficult start, little protection.

ron244 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Derek Cousins
sweenyt 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with UBMC
Slick 03/Jun/10 Lead
ParkFace ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Beautiful LP2 Crux pitch

crag_monster ?/Jun/10 Lead
Dan0Me 19/May/10 Lead
lizzie789 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, fine , although thought second pitch would have been a push to have done. 3rd pitch nice vs alternative as not polished

RagingPuffin 15/May/10 AltLd rpt

Did Vs 4c variation on pitch three

nick hawkins 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Linked p1&2 together, pete led last pitch

with peter
R_W_M 05/May/10 -
with Todd
TDembrey 05/May/10 Lead O/S

Ran first two pitches together.

with Rob
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Becky H ?/May/10 2nd O/S
with John Murphy, Felix
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Solo O/S
bsavage 22/Apr/10 AltLd rpt

Carlos lead 1st pitch

with Felicia Line
sbc 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Dunx
Dunx 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shell
mark schramm 15/Apr/10 2nd
with si
ron244 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Joined first two pitches together. Nice steady climb, plenty protection, polish not as bad as expected.

with Mike Connor, Peter Bird
mpc 08/Apr/10 2nd
gingergeorge 06/Apr/10 Lead
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Mark
Clay C 17/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Will A
Hidden 17/Mar/10 AltLd
PaulWatson 16/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Muny P1, Ben P2 me P3 opted against VS variation due to being first outing of year. Nice starter.

with Ben, Muny
Rafash 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Szymon
bluesharper 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Rafal
cem 14/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Apt name! polished monstrosity! Add a grade for the polish factor...

with Heather
matt_claydon 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Pete led P1 and P2 as one pitch. Led final pitch.

Lil_Pete 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 1 and 2 as one (accidently), with 3 poorly placed pieces of gear, tucked in on the way up, rather a token gesture! I can finally see me getting into this Trad climbing malarky ...

Hidden ??/2010 -
TR909 ??/2010 -
TR909 ??/2010 Lead
kyle ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ed morris 31/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch VS by accident and forgot helmet.

with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 31/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

awesome route, best lead so far, led the first pitch and Edmund led the second pitch on which he accidentally did the variation making it VS

drysori 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/09 Lead
bsavage 13/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with jon hauser
Chris Sansum 11/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

Gary led 1st half P1. Chris 2nd half & linked P2. Gary did the 'Sleepwalk' flake crack as pitch 3. First 2 pitches very wet!

with Gary Lewin
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd
crossdressingrodney 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Led the first two pitches as one. Not nearly as slippery as I was expecting. Did the VS 4c alternative finish.

with Ruth
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
BruceW 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Missed out last pitch as abbed off to get stuck hex.

with Becca
Dunx 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
joeym 13/Sep/09 AltLd
maresia 22/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Instead of the easy severe finish I lead through the steep wall to the right.

with Billy
Shonkhor 22/Aug/09 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Ben
Hidden 15/Aug/09 TR O/S
Adderbury Climber 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
trigger118 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

combined pitches 1 and 2, used the harder but better protected route on pitch 2

Circus 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Only went as far as the large tree, the top pitches didn't look that great.

with Tim Chappell
Joking 18/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Kyle
Mr. K 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch.

Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/09 -
Slick 16/Jun/09 -
aipattison 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
catemuir 10/Jun/09 AltLd

I lead 1st 2 pitches run together, Alex lead the 3rd pitch

JamieAyres 25/May/09 2nd rpt

the large fir tree now leans alarmingly. 20 years ago it was plumb vertical.

EmmanuelF 24/May/09 -


with Simon
kev_george 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Sean King
rorschach 10/May/09 AltLd

Did in two pitches. Kevin led first - myself second pitch. Now understand how 'polished' a route can be! Enjoyable climb - got into a slightly uncomfortable position on pitch 2 - glad i whacked in right size nut for protection at that point!

Andy White 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Anna Rothwell
Poco Loco 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climb. It is polished, but not too bad. P1 to the tree above the hanging block, P2 to the big tree. Probably top of the grade. Did the VS 4C finish up the corner, thin moves over minimal gear but the rock was nice and grippy, obviously not too much traffic on this variation of P3. Ill remember to bring the nut tool next time ;)

with Billy
Shonkhor 29/Apr/09 2nd
with James
bsavage 25/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

did VS 4c corner

with Richard Craddock
catemuir 22/Apr/09 Lead
aipattison 22/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Tony Mustow 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Loved it :)

Different Steve 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Polished to a gleam and rather disappointing

with Joe
joehanks61 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
pffft 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Monkey
Monk 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Did the VS finish

with Luke Vincent
PaulWatson 31/Mar/09 AltLd

2nd go at this, led 1st and 3rd. there is now a nut lodged on the first pitch available for use. Two persons attempts to remove failed so it is really well lodged! One tricky move per pitch. 1st pitch belay very crowded with me and two following climbers on it! Elected not to lead 4c version of last pitch, followed OK last time but lack of gear made me wary. Thanks to trevor for retreaving my dropped sling.

with Alistair
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Wrighty87 28/Mar/09 Lead rpt
dave1 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Alan Clouth
ClareR 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Led pitches 1 and 2. Very nice. Have seconded it ages ago. Found it much easier this time. Backed off 3rd pitch as not exactly sure where it went and coulnd't see any gear in nice places. Abbed off fir tree.

with Jane
Monk 28/Feb/09 Lead

Abbed from the tree

with PerrinT
Hidden 22/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
aipattison 22/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Repeat P1&2 Lead P2&3

Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR
PerrinT ??/2009 Lead
with Monkey
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 03/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
suunto12 03/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
richardadventurecafe 22/Nov/08 Lead

threatened rain - picked an easy route - nice route - and rock fine - despite people's whittering on about polish!!!! Rock actually pretty grippy... First 2 pitches - to big fir tree. Will return to complete final pitch.

with Nick Gray
pboniface 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

4 pitches (we split the middle 25m pitch into two, since there was a convenient tree and ledge), which allowed me to lead two of them (my first time at the grade). I got slightly off-route on the third pitch (from our extra belay, up to the main big tree belay below the final pitch to the top) but didn't make it any easier (possibly slightly harder). A good climb, average amounts of polish.

aldred 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Bobby Pearson 28/Sep/08 AltLd
nicksdavies17 28/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/08 AltLd β
sdkoutdoor 08/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
KarlH 03/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Climbed first pitch only. Nice pitch. Will come back to finish it off sometime.

with Gemma
Zygoticgema 03/Aug/08 2nd dnf
with KarlH
fishinwater ?/Aug/08 -

lead first ptich badly and then retired hurt to second the rest

with RD
Jon_Warner 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

4c variation. Name is apt as its a little arkward and a bit bold at the grade. Good route.

with Mark Glaister
AngusB 03/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with RoryG
AndyM-LVB 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
PaulWatson 24/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd. I would say 2nd and 3rd (Direct line variation) both 4b. Comms very hard on 2nd pitch, could maybe do with a higher 1st belay.

with Dan
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lizannday ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Neil Furgeson, Ewan Richards
Paz 16/May/08 Lead rpt
with WG
georgeevans88 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Emily K
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd O/S
Ewan Richards ?/May/08 2nd
with Neil, LizD
flytzen 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
mullermn 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Monkey
rh5980 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S

lead all of it did the vs 4c alternative finish really nice climb

with Piers
Hidden 10/Apr/08 Lead
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
catemuir ?/Apr/08 2nd
with Calum Smith
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
ISavage ?/Apr/08 2nd rpt

Moving Together

bsavage 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
jh5638 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Did the VS corner direct, gear very thin on the ground! Did the overhang direct at the top, roughly VS no gear!

with Rob Horton
RagingPuffin 16/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Al Franks 16/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Protheroe 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Polished with Mr Sheen

with Rachel Wodington
CarolineH 02/Feb/08 Lead
with Tash
Hidden ??/2008 -
rrrock! 13/Oct/07 AltLd

led pitch two

Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
riddle ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd
Monk 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Matt H
CarolineH 15/Sep/07 2nd
jayne-bravo 13/Sep/07 AltLd
with Nick
Humpty Dangler 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Nice route, if a little polished. The crux challenges you to decide between well protected harder moves or an exposed step out onto the rib. Occasionally this move will force novices off the route, usually accompanied by floods of tears. There are better routes for the novice. Topping out from the tree ledge offers a choice of routes; the easy ascent of the slab 2 metres to the right, or the direct assault of the corner.

Richard Fox 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S

There has been a little rockfall, particularly on the first pitch. Grade unaffected

with Jane Goodwin
No-chalk Nailer ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Feeling bold 06/Jun/07 2nd

Fun, but the polish addds an extra dimension.

with Rich
Millicent21 ?/May/07 2nd
mlmatt 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with chris jones
jh5638 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Ferguson
Byronius Maximus 10/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul Dewey
Hidden 10/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Justin T 09/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey & Stinky
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd
mwh 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Cormac
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
mrtom ??/2007 Lead O/S
Justin T 09/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
with Martin
maresia 12/Nov/06 AltLd rpt
with Rob Scheichl
Marq 05/Nov/06 Lead rpt
with Shona Wildman
Hidden 04/Nov/06 AltLd
nikinko 10/Oct/06 2nd dog

under instruction. slid off trying to remove stuck nuts. Slimy section that required some thought!

with Mike and Kathryn
sdi 07/Oct/06 Lead
dpmUK 01/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3

with Jayne
ISavage ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Combined the first two pitches (my lead)

with AndyM
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Lead
Quirina 19/Jul/06 2nd O/S
deanster01 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Crux move is ledge that protrudes, good holds and pro though. Last pitch provides safe exposure, good pitch

with Laurie Neale
Hidden 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
maresia 02/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 & 2 as one. Seconded 3rd pitch.

Tamlyn 06/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Rob Slacks
rotsoscooper 29/Apr/06 AltLd

Direct VS top pitch

with Karen and Tom
Hidden 29/Apr/06 AltLd
nienke 22/Apr/06 Lead
duncan 10/Apr/06 Solo rpt
kyt341k 07/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Tim Rolfe
dpmUK 06/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Combined pitches 1 and 2. Went off route on 3rd pitch and finished up Sleepwalk.

bpmclimb 05/Apr/06 AltLd rpt

John led P1. I led P2. Clare led P3.

with Clare & John
tom.e 04/Apr/06 -
with Charlie Everett
chiverstom 19/Mar/06 Lead RP

Repeated 03/06/06 with direct VS finish

cmsg ??/2006 2nd O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Solo β
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead rpt
Jen79 ?/Sep/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
andy mcc ?/May/05 2nd
with Gary
MagnusL ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with My mate Cormac
joe_alexander ??/2005 Lead
with Damon Woodhouse
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Solo O/S
with Donald Birchall
JamesColeman ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Alan
craig h 07/Dec/04 Lead rpt
with Geoff Green
Huntlyfiddler 18/Oct/04 2nd
bpmclimb 18/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Clare
mol 16/Sep/04 Lead
with Dave
furry ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/04 Solo O/S
with Ali Burleigh
Jim Brooke 02/May/04 Lead rpt
jakeclimber ?/May/04 Lead
with Rupert Rosedale
Marq 06/Sep/03 Lead rpt
with Isabel Kingsmill
five ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with TW
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Marq 13/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Lev 02/Apr/03 Lead rpt
with Jill Christner
Richard Hall 30/Mar/03 AltLd

Have climbed a couple of times. First time with girl I met in the UCL union (huntley street). Have also climbed with "guy in white Astra who I met at the crag and could not climb", and Ian Hawkins.

Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Leo
evhall 08/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with J
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
Lev 30/Dec/01 AltLd O/S

An early morning adventure, very very cold.

with Tom Elliot
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/01 Lead


with Matt Gotel
Hidden 05/May/01 -
steev ??/2001 -
gimmer ??/2001 -
EllieWoods 14/Nov/00 AltLd O/S
with Kath Rosedale
Hidden ?/May/00 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
greedo ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Various red rope chaps
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
CurlyStevo ??/2000 AltLd

A really good route. I didn't think the gear too bad - reasonably protected. The tricky moves the gear is never too far away and is good, the easier moves start to get close to bold and then a huge hold and / or a runner turn up.

cornishben ??/2000 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Boxy ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Hugh Bakere
Hidden ??/1999 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead
jim_randell 15/May/98 Lead rpt
with DG
plain kitten ?/May/98 -


mike fenwick ?/Jul/96 Solo

Back rope solo

Jim Brooke 09/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with James Latham
colin milton 06/Apr/96 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 -
richsmithinbristol ??/1996 Lead O/S
mikej 18/Nov/95 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
jim_randell 23/Oct/94 Solo rpt
Didymus 16/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Sims
jim_randell 20/Aug/94 Lead rpt
with BOC
jim_randell 29/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with RL
GAtkins 03/Jul/94 Solo O/S
with Neil
jim_randell 04/May/94 AltLd rpt
with MB, LS
jim_randell 12/Mar/94 2nd rpt
with MB
tompercy 01/Oct/93 AltLd
with Russ Weedon
Marti999 04/Apr/93 Lead
chris sm 27/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
jim_randell 14/Aug/92 Lead rpt
with MS
jim_randell 21/Jul/92 Lead rpt
with MP, SF
Hidden 19/Apr/91 2nd
Mal Grey ?/Sep/90 -
mattnuttall ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Scott Nuttall
Hidden 23/Oct/88 Solo
Hidden 16/Oct/88 Lead
Ali MacDonald 03/Jun/87 Lead O/S

I think I climbed this with my first wife Sue.

Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
JamieAyres ?/Jun/84 AltLd
with Phil Windall
Richard Weller 19/May/84 Solo
andy tetsill ?/May/84 Lead
with Manchester Poly, Joy
The Reaper 27/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 26/Jun/82 Solo O/S
leland stamper ??/1982 Solo
duncan ?/Aug/81 Solo rpt
mark-abz 11/Feb/80 AltLd
with Rob S
duncan ?/Sep/78 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/75 2nd
Nigel Bond 16/Nov/74 Lead
with Donald Workman
Mark Kemball ?/Nov/74 2nd
with Naiomi Beckett
alpboy57 ?/Jun/74 -
with Si Pryce
Andy Chubb ??/1974 -
with Phil Jardine
tapley 28/Oct/73 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Steve Woollard ??/1972 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 08/Mar/70 Lead

Snow in the morning stopped.

with Sue Poyner
Hidden ??/1970 Lead
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 111
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 90
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set