Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The easiest route on the Triangle and popular as a result - you'll need an early start to be first on this one.
1) Climb the snow ramp rightwards (50 - 55 degrees, belays on the right) to reach a short, icy chimney.
2) Follow this, then make an exposed traverse rightwards into an excellent ice gully.
3) Climb the ice gully onto a mixed, rocky crest which in turn takes you to a snowfield.
4) Drift leftwards up the snowfield to reach a left-leaning icy ramp. This leads to the end of the Contamine-Négri which is followed to the summit.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

G Gren, G Grisolle, A Poulain, M Ziegler and A. Contamine 04/Jul/1968

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

Tommy Harris 28/Sep Lead O/S

Lean conditions made route a little tricky however an amazing route, rappelled from top of triangle to reach path coming down Tacul... Good day out.

with phillip belcher
Hidden 01/Jun Lead
JoeCoxson 02/Jan AltLd O/S

Aiming for the Contamine-Vauncher, but four teams starting up that, and no one on the Grisolle, this was a great alternative. Simul-climbed with a couple of belays. Lots more ice and mixed than snow, but still made good progress- abseiling back the Chére on the other hand took a while longer, with lots of wind. Missed the last lift and spent our first night in the toilets. Great fun.

Hidden 07/Oct/16 Solo
Hugh Irving 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

A fun mixed outing, my first time really climbing ice. 5am wake up from the wood box. Moved together over almost all of it.

with George, Noah
George Ponsonby 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Oliver Smaje ?/Sep/16 2nd

simul-climbed most of it

Roberttaylor ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 31/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. 3.5 hours climbing and moving together as a team of three. Some soft snow and some brilliant ice on the route, mixed conditions.

amuirheadsmith 31/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/16 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Most fun route of the trip, a small block of ice hit me in the face when leading the pitch after the chimney and knocked out half of my front tooth. Kept moving and placed a cam before starting a little freak out. Jake lead the rest of the brilliant pitches.

with JakeB.
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
machars 23/Aug/16 AltLd
with Flynn
Petarghh 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
c357 14/Aug/16 Lead
JasonOneEye 02/Aug/16 2nd dnf

Whiteout. Bailed.

bencoope ?/Aug/16 -
Hidden 30/Jul/16 -
Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Following Alex, David and Matt. Very pleasant route. Carried on up the Tacul.

David Kay 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Alex Shipp, Matt Box
Lumbering Oaf 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Moved together as a rope of three and carried bivy gear (just to see if we could). Up at 0330ish, at base of climb by 0530ish, finished Triangle by 0930ish and were up the summit of the Tacul and back down the normal route and on to the Valley Blanche by 1300ish. Escaped back to the Midi station via the Cosmique Arete. A full, brilliant day. Great route and very steady.

with Alex Shipp, David Kay
mattdennies 28/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Bivvied on midi glacier, very cold and snowy. 5.30am start, good neve and ice, fantastic mixed climbing and a varied route, moved together the whole way. 3 hours to summit of triangle, 4 hours to Tacul summit. Some sketchy graupel and no track traversing across from the summit of the triangle to Tacul normal route. Only one other group on the route. Superb route and views.

Joel Miller 28/Jul/16 AltLd
annihuovinen 06/Jul/16 2nd

Fantastic weather and good mixed route. Finished to the Tacul summit.

with Sara Berthelot
kdo 05/Jul/16 2nd

Niall lead all this in a good time. I was along for belay duty, not to much of that either as we moved together a lot. Lots of guides about and great to see them at work. Only two guides with single clients passed us so we made good time. I managed to get up the Midi Arete without vomiting!!

niallsash 05/Jul/16 Lead
with kdo
Hidden 01/Jul/16 Solo rpt
CameronH 01/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Rhys Deane ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Nikos Roidos
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
romatou18 30/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Amazing weather, good conditions, fantastic climb overall, not very hard. climbed in Scotland before. Technically speaking this doesn't exceed a Scottish grade III, perhaps a good III for the most tricky steps. Went down by the Chere goulotte, abseiling down. 3,5 hours to the top, 3 hours to get down for the rope go stuck in some crack, needed to climb back up to unlock it. Link to camptocamp.org with photos, video and detailed grade: http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/683339/fr/triangle-du-tacul-contamine-grisolle 4248m +750m (350m) AD II P3 2

with Kim Bodin, Stephane Lacourt
TBromley 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Misha 02/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A bit of a stolen day: the forecasts disagreed, we decided to go up to have a look anyway and were rewarded with blue skies and clouds below the Geant glacier, very scenic. The route was in surprisingly good nick after a very hot summer. Mostly a mix of good neve and bits of ice, with just a few bucket step sections on soft snow. Moved together except for two short mixed pitches (at the top of the initial couloir and then going left just after), which I led. About Scottish tech 4 for those bits, so I guess hard for the grade at the moment but most of it is easier, still fun though. 3 hours to the top of the Triangle. Didn't fancy looking for the ab stations down the Chere, the weather was good, we had time and the Tacul face was tracked, so pressed on to the Tacul summit, which was another hour. An hour to descend to below the Chere down a decent track and then another hour to slog up to the Midi. Got the last (or penultimate?) lift with a bit of time to spare (the first lift wasn't till 9am due to deicing, otherwise would have been pretty chilled but we weren't rushed anyway).

with Alex
alexm198 02/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Mixed step at half height is pretty thin at the moment.

Remyveness 20/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Lead the first three pitches planning to cut across to Contamine Negri but abbed off, as the warm weather was causing alot of rock fall

with Aaron Markowitz
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd dnf
steveforgrieve 11/Jun/15 -

Alpine week with guide Pelle Bagewitz

sj87 11/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
laurashaw ?/Jun/15 Lead
Eagertom ?/Jun/15 2nd
with Laura Shaw, Dan Murray
DaveThexton 31/May/15 Solo O/S

simul solo, left edge not grisolle

with Dave Searle
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead
Hidden 12/May/15 Solo
davkeo 15/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Lovely mixed climb. Walked up tacul.

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Katie S 04/Sep/14 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

left hut at 3 and climbed most in the dark, amazing mixed climbing

with katie
Hidden 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 20/Aug/14 -
with Nick
mrbird 08/Aug/14 AltLd
friendzone1234 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S

lead the whole route

fulton333 ?/Aug/14 Solo

2hrs from midi to summit of Tacul

JoeWilliams ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Kelvin W, Kate
GuitarGenius92 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together on lower half and then on ice pitch.

with will smith
wiibaker 01/Jul/14 AltLd β

Five hours to the summit of Tacul. Abseiled down Gully Chere with other friends for four hours. Ended up sleeping in Cosmique Hut as missed the last telepherique.

Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
MSchobitz 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Only one other party on the route, due to the bad forecast. Simulclimbed all of the route spare the crux and the variation after the crux. Walked down Tacul Normal Route. First lift up 12:30 lift down.

Lawrence Beesley-Peck 28/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/14 Lead
sadams601 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Very long day out. Much more ice than expected. Overall a fantastic day!

Hidden 26/Jun/14 AltLd
Roger Cruse 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kris and Nolan
td72 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
td72 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Sam Ash 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
JakeWShaw 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Ace route long day! Lead P2,4,5,6?? Had to rush for last lift, was pretty haggard but not quite as much as Sam, amazing effort at the end!!

Ewan Russell 25/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
Lxaddison 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Ice in perfect condition all the way up. Watching the sun rise over the vallee blanche was phenomenally good!

Hidden 21/Jun/14 -
Hidden 21/Jun/14 -
KatOstrich 21/Jun/14 -

With ollie and joe. Moved together

with Ollie
barrowclough 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
scree 19/Jun/14 -

Guided by ISM. Really enjoyable route, esp final ice runnels at top. Followed Terry's snow plough to summit of Mt Blanc du Tacul for picnic before descending voie normal. Long but fantastic day out.

johnrich 17/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
QuentinSu ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Sep/13 2nd
joe.91 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very long day, camped over the night before! Great route and probably could of done in a day.

Gordon Lacey 03/Sep/13 AltLd
Scott Rankin 03/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead
dutybooty 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Mostly moved together. Pitched middle rock band but took a variation to left up overhanging corner crack. Approx Scottish Tech 6. Brilliant route. Due to new partner having issues with normal route, abseil descent which left us benighted. Fun day all in and gained some very funny tan lines.

with Lee
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd
jimmatthews 16/Aug/13 AltLd
onlyfoddington 01/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Turned out we started pitching from the bergshund. I made the mistake of heading up the ice, which was hard work - probably should have acclimatised. I down climbed 60m when we decided to retreat based on conditions and how slow we were proceeding. Not our finest hour (things like climbing the first 30m whilst not being able to see my feet because I was still wearing the other rope). Got to places several ice screws for the first time. Was steeper than I had expected. It seemed it would take a long time to do, but perfectly possible.

with Adam
jwdickinson25 ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Matt Benson
friendzone1234 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I did pitches 5, 7, 9, second the rest

with matthew reynolds
robgixer ?/Aug/13 -
leeoftroy ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Benighted but smiling!!!

np134 24/Jul/13 AltLd
TRFrost 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Stefan Jacobsen 11/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Started the climb at 04.00 just before a team of three. Never saw them on the rute. Perfect conditions even with footsteps to follow. 06.00: The gulley pitch was a little scary. Summited at 08.20. A serac at the normal route of MB had collapsed reminding me to be fast.

HarryB 07/Jul/13 Solo O/S
zcsharp 06/Jul/13 Lead

Epic 2,pitched it all so we were first on and last off, had to rush back down the normal route to the Tacul and ended with steve carrying both bags and still being faster than me going up the Midi arete...just managed to get the last lift. Great route though.

steve_gibbs 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
LeadBalloon 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Awesome route, was in great condition but took longer than expected and had to spend night in Cosmique hut cos thought we'd missed the last lift down (turns out we probably didn't so well worth checking last lift time in the morning)

with Mark
Hidden 02/Jul/13 2nd
stanleynkk ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
alooker ?/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Should've pitched from the start of the ice/steep snow. Lack of communication and indecision made is retreat. Lots of ice coming down on my head and some very large rocks coming from up above. Maybe get on this when it's well frozen and don't hang around...

with David
joelevanschamonix 25/Jun/13 AltLd β


with Emily roo
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gumery 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Forshaw
Hidden 23/Jun/13 -
Avinash Aujayeb 22/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Tim Neil
cwhitty 22/Jun/13 -
with Dave Macintyre
ray.allwood 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S

With Mark Cordingley

with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Lxaddison 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Started too late, ice not in great nick at the top, bit too much dinner plating for my liking as I had to lead ice pitches as Brads front points kept slipping. Ab'd off, terrible decision, rope got stuck multiple times took us about 4hours to get to bottom of route, got back down to hut for about 10pm. Long day.

thomaspomfrett 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Moved together up until rock step then pitched. Descended via Tacul normal route.

with Sam Thomas
Brian Pollock 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
paulmck 06/Jun/13 AltLd
Nemo9 ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Moved together

with Col
AdamCB ?/Jun/13 -

With Andy Owen

murray ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ryan
leowestland ?/Jun/13 -
rashwell ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 27/May/13 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
timofy ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

weather turned while on the route so finished and abseiled down rather than summit

dave josling ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Andre Clarke 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great route but could have done without the snow plot to the top afterwards. Next time I'll bring tat and abseil down.

with Weagie
JKBowers 12/Aug/12 AltLd
with Ben Bennet
AlexxelA 31/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Thrilling! Did the summit and back down the snow slope.

Hidden 10/Jul/12 2nd
franksnb ?/Jul/12 2nd dnf
with OwenF
OwenF ?/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Did not start would be more appropriate. Ab'd off at first rock section after basically soloing 50 degree ice and partner not too comfortable.

davebrox 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with howard
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
danfitz 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
pawelx 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Roped solo the first ice patch. Rock move immediately after this was probably the crux. 5hrs to the top of the route, didn't go all the way to Tacul summit, joined the Tacul normal route and descended to Cosmiques hut.

Murilo Lessa 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

We followed track marks and because of that ended up finishing a bit more to the left on what I believe might be the Petit Frounet route. Because it was very warm the ice straight up was too hard and there was a lot of powder snow. We went straight from London and felt the altitude really hard. Down the normal route, 10h from the Aiguille du Midi and back to Cosmique hut.

with Pawel Zdziarski
nich0las 15/Sep/11 AltLd
with Guy W
Hidden 31/Aug/11 -
Hidden 11/Aug/11 -
Hidden 04/Jul/11 -
nvalentine760 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sam Burnham
supos 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
Matt Bennett 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Simult solo, 1.5hrs to summit

with Alalister Gurney
PHILD 04/Sep/10 -

early start from camp on the vallee blanche. Glorious sunny day with a biting cold wind that made communication difficult! Summitted the Tacul and then back to camp for cake and pittas!!

Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
James S ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
alan barnes ?/Sep/10 -
with Dan Platt, luke
Kris ?/Sep/10 -
r_o_b_h2 ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

off the third midi lift of the morning, truly lazy start. JUST made the last lift down, but not without being heckled by the lift staff from the bridge!

Hidden 26/Aug/10 -
Pat-H 11/Aug/10 2nd
declanj ?/Aug/10 -
Jack Finney 15/Jul/10 2nd O/S
JGW ?/Jul/10 -

MT led all the way, a couple of very nice ice pitches. Continued to Tacul summit then descended normal route and back to Midi station.

with Matt Tilley
kevburr 26/May/10 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
stuart34 12/Jan/10 2nd

Did not reach Tacul summit, ab'd down route

with James Monypenny
Hidden ??/2010 -
Timo Austino 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Just awesome with AMS thrown in for fun - started chucking chunks just outside the hut and didn't stop til the next morning! Maybe it was the £17 dinner that did it!

wheelsucker ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Piaras Kerry ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
farmus21 17/Aug/09 AltLd

Same grade as Cosmique Ridge? Good route though.

with Nick Stephens
nickstephens 17/Aug/09 AltLd
reima ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Some clear ice in the middle to keep things interesting. We were too slow though; we didn't even try to reach the summit but hiked down the normal route and just made it to the last telepherique.

with Niamh
mathquirk 04/Jul/09 Lead
with Petter Zachrisson
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ollie B 29/Jun/09 -
with B.Jacobs, S.Jones
BenJacobs 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Steve and Ollie
Mathijs ??/2009 -
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Neil D ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 Lead
Lear ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Carl, Graham
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
existing debt 29/Jan/08 2nd dnf
with Iain a
easers 24/Oct/07 AltLd
with Doug Aitken
nic42 ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with dru
Hidden 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Ed Saint ?/Jul/07 -

Attempted. Made it to 2 pitches above the big gully.

Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd

Continued to summit

with douglas
Big Lee 06/Nov/06 Solo O/S

Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Didin't bother with a rope. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather.

with Phil Davis, Jonathan Brown
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Sgt_Nige ?/Jul/06 -
with H. Pell
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Simon K ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Rich Cross + PR
Robbie H ?/Jul/05 AltLd β

Failed to reach summit of Tacul (stopped at plateau just beneath - too knackered with altitude).

with Glenn Watters
David Horwood 23/Jun/05 -
AndyP 13/Oct/04 AltLd O/S

Snow started to fall on the second pitch so we abbed off just below the pinnacle on the 4th pitch in snow and small avalanches. Crossed the Vallee Blanche in the same conditions to the tent where we were stuck for three days in bad conditions. On the third day the weather eased a bit (though when we got down to Chamonix the telephrique station sign was showing 100kph wind and minus 14oc for the top station) and we heard the tannoy from the top station. Rammed our gear into packs and set off on a desperate climb up to the station. Joe led most of it and set off an avalanch about two pitches from the station. 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen since we arrived on the 13th. Two Spanish climbers were at the railings outside the ice cave and offered to help us on the last pitch. There was one car up and down that day to change the staff. Desperate.

with Joe
Paul-Michael 25/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

The initial snow slopes were hard ice, this was unforeseen so we had to pitch them with only 3 ice screws between us. From there on we were able to move together to the top in 5 hours, & another hour & ½ to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We descended via the normal route (North-West Face) it was closed 2 days later!

with Paul Nurse
liz j ?/Sep/02 2nd
with neil brodie
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/01 2nd
stokienomad 23/Jul/93 AltLd
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