350m.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The easiest route on the Triangle and popular as a result - you'll need an early start to be first on this one.
1) Climb the snow ramp rightwards (50 - 55 degrees, belays on the right) to reach a short, icy chimney.
2) Follow this, then make an exposed traverse rightwards into an excellent ice gully.
3) Climb the ice gully onto a mixed, rocky crest which in turn takes you to a snowfield.
4) Drift leftwards up the snowfield to reach a left-leaning icy ramp. This leads to the end of the Contamine-Négri which is followed to the summit.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

G Gren, G Grisolle, A Poulain, M Ziegler and A. Contamine 04/Jul/1968

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UserDateNotes
TomAlford 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JakeTomos 17 Jul Solo dnf Bad conditions, thin flaking ice/slush. Got above the chock to the traverse, decided to call it as conditions weren’t on our side. Rappelled down the route back to the glacier
Bad conditions, thin flaking ice/slush. Got above the chock to the traverse, decided to call it as conditions weren’t on our side. Rappelled down the route back to the glacier
Hidden 3 Jun Lead dnf
Giacomo D'Ugo 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Marcello De Santis
with Marcello De Santis
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 -
Piglet69 ??, 2018 -
alpinestar_no1 23 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Totally dry with hard black ice, and no snow. Up and over, back down the chere gully. simul climbed all of the route, and droped my belay device amost at the top, so had to ab down on HMS which coiled the ropes, meanig each abb to much longer then normal. Came down just as it got dark, then a plod to the cozy Abri-simond hut. :)
with Jakob Fisker
Totally dry with hard black ice, and no snow. Up and over, back down the chere gully. simul climbed all of the route, and droped my belay device amost at the top, so had to ab down on HMS which coiled the ropes, meanig each abb to much longer then normal. Came down just as it got dark, then a plod to the cozy Abri-simond hut. :)
with Jakob Fisker
Tommy Harris 28 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Lean conditions made route a little tricky however an amazing route, rappelled from top of triangle to reach path coming down Tacul... Good day out.
with phillip belcher
Lean conditions made route a little tricky however an amazing route, rappelled from top of triangle to reach path coming down Tacul... Good day out.
with phillip belcher
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 Lead
lukegorman 2 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S and a nice nap in the toilets after.
and a nice nap in the toilets after.
JoeCoxson 2 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Aiming for the Contamine-Vauncher, but four teams starting up that, and no one on the Grisolle, this was a great alternative. Simul-climbed with a couple of belays. Lots more ice and mixed than snow, but still made good progress- abseiling back the Chére on the other hand took a while longer, with lots of wind. Missed the last lift and spent our first night in the toilets. Great fun.
Aiming for the Contamine-Vauncher, but four teams starting up that, and no one on the Grisolle, this was a great alternative. Simul-climbed with a couple of belays. Lots more ice and mixed than snow, but still made good progress- abseiling back the Chére on the other hand took a while longer, with lots of wind. Missed the last lift and spent our first night in the toilets. Great fun.
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 Solo
Hugh Irving 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S A fun mixed outing, my first time really climbing ice. 5am wake up from the wood box. Moved together over almost all of it.
A fun mixed outing, my first time really climbing ice. 5am wake up from the wood box. Moved together over almost all of it.
George Ponsonby 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Oliver Smaje ?Sep, 2016 2nd simul-climbed most of it
simul-climbed most of it
Roberttaylor ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 31 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. 3.5 hours climbing and moving together as a team of three. Some soft snow and some brilliant ice on the route, mixed conditions.
Lead all pitches. 3.5 hours climbing and moving together as a team of three. Some soft snow and some brilliant ice on the route, mixed conditions.
amuirheadsmith 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd
williemiller 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Most fun route of the trip, a small block of ice hit me in the face when leading the pitch after the chimney and knocked out half of my front tooth. Kept moving and placed a cam before starting a little freak out. Jake lead the rest of the brilliant pitches.
with JakeB.
Most fun route of the trip, a small block of ice hit me in the face when leading the pitch after the chimney and knocked out half of my front tooth. Kept moving and placed a cam before starting a little freak out. Jake lead the rest of the brilliant pitches.
with JakeB.
Hidden 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Flynn
with Flynn
Petarghh 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
c357 14 Aug, 2016 Lead
JasonOneEye 2 Aug, 2016 2nd dnf Whiteout. Bailed.
Whiteout. Bailed.
kempy7 ?Aug, 2016 -
bencoope ?Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 -
Hidden 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 29 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Following Alex, David and Matt. Very pleasant route. Carried on up the Tacul.
with Batt
Following Alex, David and Matt. Very pleasant route. Carried on up the Tacul.
with Batt
David Kay 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Alex Shipp, Lumbering Oaf
with Alex Shipp, Lumbering Oaf
Lumbering Oaf 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together as a rope of three and carried bivy gear (just to see if we could). Up at 0330ish, at base of climb by 0530ish, finished Triangle by 0930ish and were up the summit of the Tacul and back down the normal route and on to the Valley Blanche by 1300ish. Escaped back to the Midi station via the Cosmique Arete. A full, brilliant day. Great route and very steady.
with Alex Shipp, David Kay
Moved together as a rope of three and carried bivy gear (just to see if we could). Up at 0330ish, at base of climb by 0530ish, finished Triangle by 0930ish and were up the summit of the Tacul and back down the normal route and on to the Valley Blanche by 1300ish. Escaped back to the Midi station via the Cosmique Arete. A full, brilliant day. Great route and very steady.
with Alex Shipp, David Kay
mattdennies 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Bivvied on midi glacier, very cold and snowy. 5.30am start, good neve and ice, fantastic mixed climbing and a varied route, moved together the whole way. 3 hours to summit of triangle, 4 hours to Tacul summit. Some sketchy graupel and no track traversing across from the summit of the triangle to Tacul normal route. Only one other group on the route. Superb route and views.
Bivvied on midi glacier, very cold and snowy. 5.30am start, good neve and ice, fantastic mixed climbing and a varied route, moved together the whole way. 3 hours to summit of triangle, 4 hours to Tacul summit. Some sketchy graupel and no track traversing across from the summit of the triangle to Tacul normal route. Only one other group on the route. Superb route and views.
Joel Miller 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd
bogpetre 27 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 2nd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 2nd
niallsash 5 Jul, 2016 Lead
with kdo
with kdo
CameronH 2 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Just Will 1 Jul, 2016 Solo rpt
Just Will 1 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Rhys Deane ?Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Nikos Roidos
with Nikos Roidos
Everetta ??, 2016 2nd O/S
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
romatou18 30 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Amazing weather, good conditions, fantastic climb overall, not very hard. climbed in Scotland before. Technically speaking this doesn't exceed a Scottish grade III, perhaps a good III for the most tricky steps. Went down by the Chere goulotte, abseiling down. 3,5 hours to the top, 3 hours to get down for the rope go stuck in some crack, needed to climb back up to unlock it. Link to camptocamp.org with photos, video and detailed grade: http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/683339/fr/triangle-du-tacul-contamine-grisolle 4248m +750m (350m) AD II P3 2
with Kim Bodin, Stephane Lacourt
Amazing weather, good conditions, fantastic climb overall, not very hard. climbed in Scotland before. Technically speaking this doesn't exceed a Scottish grade III, perhaps a good III for the most tricky steps. Went down by the Chere goulotte, abseiling down. 3,5 hours to the top, 3 hours to get down for the rope go stuck in some crack, needed to climb back up to unlock it. Link to camptocamp.org with photos, video and detailed grade: http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/683339/fr/triangle-du-tacul-contamine-grisolle 4248m +750m (350m) AD II P3 2
with Kim Bodin, Stephane Lacourt
TBromley 5 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Misha 2 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S A bit of a stolen day: the forecasts disagreed, we decided to go up to have a look anyway and were rewarded with blue skies and clouds below the Geant glacier, very scenic. The route was in surprisingly good nick after a very hot summer. Mostly a mix of good neve and bits of ice, with just a few bucket step sections on soft snow. Moved together except for two short mixed pitches (at the top of the initial couloir and then going left just after), which I led. About Scottish tech 4 for those bits, so I guess hard for the grade at the moment but most of it is easier, still fun though. 3 hours to the top of the Triangle. Didn't fancy looking for the ab stations down the Chere, the weather was good, we had time and the Tacul face was tracked, so pressed on to the Tacul summit, which was another hour. An hour to descend to below the Chere down a decent track and then another hour to slog up to the Midi. Got the last (or penultimate?) lift with a bit of time to spare (the first lift wasn't till 9am due to deicing, otherwise would have been pretty chilled but we weren't rushed anyway).
A bit of a stolen day: the forecasts disagreed, we decided to go up to have a look anyway and were rewarded with blue skies and clouds below the Geant glacier, very scenic. The route was in surprisingly good nick after a very hot summer. Mostly a mix of good neve and bits of ice, with just a few bucket step sections on soft snow. Moved together except for two short mixed pitches (at the top of the initial couloir and then going left just after), which I led. About Scottish tech 4 for those bits, so I guess hard for the grade at the moment but most of it is easier, still fun though. 3 hours to the top of the Triangle. Didn't fancy looking for the ab stations down the Chere, the weather was good, we had time and the Tacul face was tracked, so pressed on to the Tacul summit, which was another hour. An hour to descend to below the Chere down a decent track and then another hour to slog up to the Midi. Got the last (or penultimate?) lift with a bit of time to spare (the first lift wasn't till 9am due to deicing, otherwise would have been pretty chilled but we weren't rushed anyway).
alexm198 2 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Moved together. Mixed step at half height is pretty thin at the moment.
with Misha
Moved together. Mixed step at half height is pretty thin at the moment.
with Misha
Remyveness 20 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Lead the first three pitches planning to cut across to Contamine Negri but abbed off, as the warm weather was causing alot of rock fall
with Aaron Markowitz
Lead the first three pitches planning to cut across to Contamine Negri but abbed off, as the warm weather was causing alot of rock fall
with Aaron Markowitz
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf
steveforgrieve 11 Jun, 2015 - Alpine week with guide Pelle Bagewitz
Alpine week with guide Pelle Bagewitz
sj87 11 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
laurashaw ?Jun, 2015 Lead
Eagertom ?Jun, 2015 2nd
with Laura Shaw, dmurray
with Laura Shaw, dmurray
DaveThexton 31 May, 2015 Solo O/S simul solo, left edge not grisolle
with Dave Searle
simul solo, left edge not grisolle
with Dave Searle
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden 12 May, 2015 Solo
davkeo 15 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S Lovely mixed climb. Walked up tacul.
Lovely mixed climb. Walked up tacul.
Andy Lagan 14 Sep, 2014 Lead
Katie S 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S left hut at 3 and climbed most in the dark, amazing mixed climbing
with Katie S
left hut at 3 and climbed most in the dark, amazing mixed climbing
with Katie S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 20 Aug, 2014 -
with Nick
with Nick
mrbird 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd
friendzone1234 ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S lead the whole route
lead the whole route
Grant Fulton ?Aug, 2014 Solo 2hrs from midi to summit of Tacul
2hrs from midi to summit of Tacul
JoeWilliams ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Kelvin W, Kate
with Kelvin W, Kate
GuitarGenius92 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Moved together on lower half and then on ice pitch.
with will smith
Moved together on lower half and then on ice pitch.
with will smith
wiibaker 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd β Five hours to the summit of Tacul. Abseiled down Gully Chere with other friends for four hours. Ended up sleeping in Cosmique Hut as missed the last telepherique.
Five hours to the summit of Tacul. Abseiled down Gully Chere with other friends for four hours. Ended up sleeping in Cosmique Hut as missed the last telepherique.
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 -
MSchobitz 28 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Only one other party on the route, due to the bad forecast. Simulclimbed all of the route spare the crux and the variation after the crux. Walked down Tacul Normal Route. First lift up 12:30 lift down.
Only one other party on the route, due to the bad forecast. Simulclimbed all of the route spare the crux and the variation after the crux. Walked down Tacul Normal Route. First lift up 12:30 lift down.
Lawrence Beesley-Peck 28 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2014 Lead
sadams601 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Very long day out. Much more ice than expected. Overall a fantastic day!
Very long day out. Much more ice than expected. Overall a fantastic day!
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Roger Cruse 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Kris and Nolan
with Kris and Nolan
td72 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
td72 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Sam Ash 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
JakeWShaw 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Ace route long day! Lead P2,4,5,6?? Had to rush for last lift, was pretty haggard but not quite as much as Sam, amazing effort at the end!!
with Sam Ash
Ace route long day! Lead P2,4,5,6?? Had to rush for last lift, was pretty haggard but not quite as much as Sam, amazing effort at the end!!
with Sam Ash
Ewan Russell 25 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with kelly_426, LDudill, Tom Nichols
with kelly_426, LDudill, Tom Nichols
Lxaddison 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt Ice in perfect condition all the way up. Watching the sun rise over the vallee blanche was phenomenally good!
Ice in perfect condition all the way up. Watching the sun rise over the vallee blanche was phenomenally good!
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 -
KatOstrich 21 Jun, 2014 - With ollie and joe. Moved together
with Ollie
With ollie and joe. Moved together
with Ollie
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
scree 19 Jun, 2014 - Guided by ISM. Really enjoyable route, esp final ice runnels at top. Followed Terry's snow plough to summit of Mt Blanc du Tacul for picnic before descending voie normal. Long but fantastic day out.
Guided by ISM. Really enjoyable route, esp final ice runnels at top. Followed Terry's snow plough to summit of Mt Blanc du Tacul for picnic before descending voie normal. Long but fantastic day out.
johnrich 17 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 -
QuentinSu ?Jun, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 24 Sep, 2013 2nd
joe.91 24 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Very long day, camped over the night before! Great route and probably could of done in a day.
with Reidy
Very long day, camped over the night before! Great route and probably could of done in a day.
with Reidy
Gordon Lacey 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Scott Rankin 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2013 Lead
dutybooty 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Mostly moved together. Pitched middle rock band but took a variation to left up overhanging corner crack. Approx Scottish Tech 6. Brilliant route. Due to new partner having issues with normal route, abseil descent which left us benighted. Fun day all in and gained some very funny tan lines.
with Lee
Mostly moved together. Pitched middle rock band but took a variation to left up overhanging corner crack. Approx Scottish Tech 6. Brilliant route. Due to new partner having issues with normal route, abseil descent which left us benighted. Fun day all in and gained some very funny tan lines.
with Lee
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd
jimmatthews 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Hanakin
with Hanakin
onlyfoddington 1 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Turned out we started pitching from the bergshund. I made the mistake of heading up the ice, which was hard work - probably should have acclimatised. I down climbed 60m when we decided to retreat based on conditions and how slow we were proceeding. Not our finest hour (things like climbing the first 30m whilst not being able to see my feet because I was still wearing the other rope). Got to places several ice screws for the first time. Was steeper than I had expected. It seemed it would take a long time to do, but perfectly possible.
with alooker
Turned out we started pitching from the bergshund. I made the mistake of heading up the ice, which was hard work - probably should have acclimatised. I down climbed 60m when we decided to retreat based on conditions and how slow we were proceeding. Not our finest hour (things like climbing the first 30m whilst not being able to see my feet because I was still wearing the other rope). Got to places several ice screws for the first time. Was steeper than I had expected. It seemed it would take a long time to do, but perfectly possible.
with alooker
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
friendzone1234 ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S I did pitches 5, 7, 9, second the rest
with matthew reynolds
I did pitches 5, 7, 9, second the rest
with matthew reynolds
AidanMorris ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
robgixer ?Aug, 2013 -
leeoftroy ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Benighted but smiling!!!
Benighted but smiling!!!
np134 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with TRFrost
with TRFrost
TRFrost 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with np134
with np134
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Stefan Jacobsen 11 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S Started the climb at 04.00 just before a team of three. Never saw them on the rute. Perfect conditions even with footsteps to follow. 06.00: The gulley pitch was a little scary. Summited at 08.20. A serac at the normal route of MB had collapsed reminding me to be fast.
Started the climb at 04.00 just before a team of three. Never saw them on the rute. Perfect conditions even with footsteps to follow. 06.00: The gulley pitch was a little scary. Summited at 08.20. A serac at the normal route of MB had collapsed reminding me to be fast.
HarryB 7 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S
zcsharp 6 Jul, 2013 Lead Epic 2,pitched it all so we were first on and last off, had to rush back down the normal route to the Tacul and ended with steve carrying both bags and still being faster than me going up the Midi arete...just managed to get the last lift. Great route though.
Epic 2,pitched it all so we were first on and last off, had to rush back down the normal route to the Tacul and ended with steve carrying both bags and still being faster than me going up the Midi arete...just managed to get the last lift. Great route though.
steve_gibbs 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with zcsharp
with zcsharp
LeadBalloon 5 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Awesome route, was in great condition but took longer than expected and had to spend night in Cosmique hut cos thought we'd missed the last lift down (turns out we probably didn't so well worth checking last lift time in the morning)
Awesome route, was in great condition but took longer than expected and had to spend night in Cosmique hut cos thought we'd missed the last lift down (turns out we probably didn't so well worth checking last lift time in the morning)
Hidden 2 Jul, 2013 2nd
stanleynkk ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
with Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
alooker ?Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf Should've pitched from the start of the ice/steep snow. Lack of communication and indecision made is retreat. Lots of ice coming down on my head and some very large rocks coming from up above. Maybe get on this when it's well frozen and don't hang around...
Should've pitched from the start of the ice/steep snow. Lack of communication and indecision made is retreat. Lots of ice coming down on my head and some very large rocks coming from up above. Maybe get on this when it's well frozen and don't hang around...
joelevanschamonix 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/06/26/contamine-grisolle-tacul-ski-descent/
with Emily roo
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/06/26/contamine-grisolle-tacul-ski-descent/
with Emily roo
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Gumery 23 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Forshaw
with Forshaw
Hidden 23 Jun, 2013 -
cwhitty 22 Jun, 2013 -
with Dave Macintyre
with Dave Macintyre
ray.allwood 21 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S With Mark Cordingley
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
With Mark Cordingley
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Lxaddison 18 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Started too late, ice not in great nick at the top, bit too much dinner plating for my liking as I had to lead ice pitches as Brads front points kept slipping. Ab'd off, terrible decision, rope got stuck multiple times took us about 4hours to get to bottom of route, got back down to hut for about 10pm. Long day.
Started too late, ice not in great nick at the top, bit too much dinner plating for my liking as I had to lead ice pitches as Brads front points kept slipping. Ab'd off, terrible decision, rope got stuck multiple times took us about 4hours to get to bottom of route, got back down to hut for about 10pm. Long day.
thomaspomfrett 17 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Moved together up until rock step then pitched. Descended via Tacul normal route.
with Sam Thomas
Moved together up until rock step then pitched. Descended via Tacul normal route.
with Sam Thomas
Brian Pollock 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
paulmck 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Nemo9 ?Jun, 2013 AltLd Moved together
with Col
Moved together
with Col
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 -
murray ?Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Ryan
with Ryan
leowestland ?Jun, 2013 -
rashwell ?Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
Dave Searle ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
timofy ?Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S weather turned while on the route so finished and abseiled down rather than summit
weather turned while on the route so finished and abseiled down rather than summit
dave josling ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
Andre Clarke 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Great route but could have done without the snow plot to the top afterwards. Next time I'll bring tat and abseil down.
with Weagie
Great route but could have done without the snow plot to the top afterwards. Next time I'll bring tat and abseil down.
with Weagie
JKBowers 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Ben Bennet
with Ben Bennet
AlexxelA 31 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Thrilling! Did the summit and back down the snow slope.
Thrilling! Did the summit and back down the snow slope.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2012 2nd
franksnb ?Jul, 2012 2nd dnf
with OwenF
with OwenF
OwenF ?Jul, 2012 Lead dnf Did not start would be more appropriate. Ab'd off at first rock section after basically soloing 50 degree ice and partner not too comfortable.
Did not start would be more appropriate. Ab'd off at first rock section after basically soloing 50 degree ice and partner not too comfortable.
davebrox 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with howard
with howard
Hidden 19 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
danfitz 19 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
pawelx 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Roped solo the first ice patch. Rock move immediately after this was probably the crux. 5hrs to the top of the route, didn't go all the way to Tacul summit, joined the Tacul normal route and descended to Cosmiques hut.
Roped solo the first ice patch. Rock move immediately after this was probably the crux. 5hrs to the top of the route, didn't go all the way to Tacul summit, joined the Tacul normal route and descended to Cosmiques hut.
Murilo Lessa 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S We followed track marks and because of that ended up finishing a bit more to the left on what I believe might be the Petit Frounet route. Because it was very warm the ice straight up was too hard and there was a lot of powder snow. We went straight from London and felt the altitude really hard. Down the normal route, 10h from the Aiguille du Midi and back to Cosmique hut.
with Pawel Zdziarski
We followed track marks and because of that ended up finishing a bit more to the left on what I believe might be the Petit Frounet route. Because it was very warm the ice straight up was too hard and there was a lot of powder snow. We went straight from London and felt the altitude really hard. Down the normal route, 10h from the Aiguille du Midi and back to Cosmique hut.
with Pawel Zdziarski
nich0las 15 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with Guy W
with Guy W
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 -
nvalentine760 28 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sam Burnham
with Sam Burnham
supos 26 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
with Lars Fjendbo
Matt Bennett 5 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Simult solo, 1.5hrs to summit
with Alalister Gurney
Simult solo, 1.5hrs to summit
with Alalister Gurney
PHILD 4 Sep, 2010 - early start from camp on the vallee blanche. Glorious sunny day with a biting cold wind that made communication difficult! Summitted the Tacul and then back to camp for cake and pittas!!
early start from camp on the vallee blanche. Glorious sunny day with a biting cold wind that made communication difficult! Summitted the Tacul and then back to camp for cake and pittas!!
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
James Smith ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
alan barnes ?Sep, 2010 -
with Dan Platt, luke
with Dan Platt, luke
Kris ?Sep, 2010 -
r_o_b_h2 ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S off the third midi lift of the morning, truly lazy start. JUST made the last lift down, but not without being heckled by the lift staff from the bridge!
off the third midi lift of the morning, truly lazy start. JUST made the last lift down, but not without being heckled by the lift staff from the bridge!
Hidden 26 Aug, 2010 -
Pat-H 11 Aug, 2010 2nd
declanj ?Aug, 2010 -
Jack Finney 15 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
JGW ?Jul, 2010 - MT led all the way, a couple of very nice ice pitches. Continued to Tacul summit then descended normal route and back to Midi station.
with Matt Tilley
MT led all the way, a couple of very nice ice pitches. Continued to Tacul summit then descended normal route and back to Midi station.
with Matt Tilley
kevburr 26 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
with Roger Payne
stuart34 12 Jan, 2010 2nd Did not reach Tacul summit, ab'd down route
with James Monypenny
Did not reach Tacul summit, ab'd down route
with James Monypenny
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Timo Austino 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Just awesome with AMS thrown in for fun - started chucking chunks just outside the hut and didn't stop til the next morning! Maybe it was the £17 dinner that did it!
Just awesome with AMS thrown in for fun - started chucking chunks just outside the hut and didn't stop til the next morning! Maybe it was the £17 dinner that did it!
wheelsucker ?Sep, 2009 AltLd
Piaras Kerry ?Sep, 2009 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
farmus21 17 Aug, 2009 AltLd Same grade as Cosmique Ridge? Good route though.
with Nick Stephens
Same grade as Cosmique Ridge? Good route though.
with Nick Stephens
nickstephens 17 Aug, 2009 AltLd
reima ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Some clear ice in the middle to keep things interesting. We were too slow though; we didn't even try to reach the summit but hiked down the normal route and just made it to the last telepherique.
with Niamh
Some clear ice in the middle to keep things interesting. We were too slow though; we didn't even try to reach the summit but hiked down the normal route and just made it to the last telepherique.
with Niamh
mathquirk 4 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Petter Zachrisson
with Petter Zachrisson
Hidden 29 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Ollie B 29 Jun, 2009 -
with B.Jacobs, S.Jones
with B.Jacobs, S.Jones
BenJacobs 29 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Steve and Ollie
with Steve and Ollie
Mathijs ??, 2009 -
Hidden 15 Aug, 2008 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
Neil D ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?Jul, 2008 Lead
Lear ?Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with Carl, Graham
with Carl, Graham
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd
existing debt 29 Jan, 2008 2nd dnf
with Iain a
with Iain a
Hidden 24 Oct, 2007 AltLd
nic42 ?Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with dru
with dru
Hidden 23 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Ed Saint ?Jul, 2007 - Attempted. Made it to 2 pitches above the big gully.
Attempted. Made it to 2 pitches above the big gully.
Bristoldave ??, 2007 AltLd Continued to summit
with long
Continued to summit
with long
Big Lee 6 Nov, 2006 Solo O/S Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Didin't bother with a rope. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather.
with Phil Davis, Jonathan Brown
Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Didin't bother with a rope. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather.
with Phil Davis, Jonathan Brown
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 2nd O/S
dancurrie ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Mike Coppock
with Mike Coppock
Sgt_Nige ?Jul, 2006 -
with H. Pell
with H. Pell
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Simon K ?Aug, 2005 2nd
with Rich Cross + PR
with Rich Cross + PR
Robbie H ?Jul, 2005 AltLd β Failed to reach summit of Tacul (stopped at plateau just beneath - too knackered with altitude).
with Glenn Watters
Failed to reach summit of Tacul (stopped at plateau just beneath - too knackered with altitude).
with Glenn Watters
David Horwood 23 Jun, 2005 -
AndyP 13 Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S Snow started to fall on the second pitch so we abbed off just below the pinnacle on the 4th pitch in snow and small avalanches. Crossed the Vallee Blanche in the same conditions to the tent where we were stuck for three days in bad conditions. On the third day the weather eased a bit (though when we got down to Chamonix the telephrique station sign was showing 100kph wind and minus 14oc for the top station) and we heard the tannoy from the top station. Rammed our gear into packs and set off on a desperate climb up to the station. Joe led most of it and set off an avalanch about two pitches from the station. 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen since we arrived on the 13th. Two Spanish climbers were at the railings outside the ice cave and offered to help us on the last pitch. There was one car up and down that day to change the staff. Desperate.
with Joe
Snow started to fall on the second pitch so we abbed off just below the pinnacle on the 4th pitch in snow and small avalanches. Crossed the Vallee Blanche in the same conditions to the tent where we were stuck for three days in bad conditions. On the third day the weather eased a bit (though when we got down to Chamonix the telephrique station sign was showing 100kph wind and minus 14oc for the top station) and we heard the tannoy from the top station. Rammed our gear into packs and set off on a desperate climb up to the station. Joe led most of it and set off an avalanch about two pitches from the station. 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen since we arrived on the 13th. Two Spanish climbers were at the railings outside the ice cave and offered to help us on the last pitch. There was one car up and down that day to change the staff. Desperate.
with Joe
Paul-Michael 25 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S The initial snow slopes were hard ice, this was unforeseen so we had to pitch them with only 3 ice screws between us. From there on we were able to move together to the top in 5 hours, & another hour & ½ to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We descended via the normal route (North-West Face) it was closed 2 days later!
with Paul Nurse
The initial snow slopes were hard ice, this was unforeseen so we had to pitch them with only 3 ice screws between us. From there on we were able to move together to the top in 5 hours, & another hour & ½ to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We descended via the normal route (North-West Face) it was closed 2 days later!
with Paul Nurse
liz j ?Sep, 2002 2nd
with neil brodie
with neil brodie
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 2002 AltLd
with Murray Hamilton, Simon Hale
with Murray Hamilton, Simon Hale
Hidden 9 Jul, 2001 2nd
stokienomad 23 Jul, 1993 AltLd
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Style of Ascent
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