UKC

Rockfax Description
A good HVS that can feel much harder if you aren't careful with your route-finding.
1) 4b, 18m. Start 4m left of the wall. Climb up a chimney, then move rightwards before heading back left towards an overhanging chimney. Now move right to belay left of the rib.
2) 5a, 30m. Traverse right onto the rib, around a detached block (take care!). Climb about 9m to a high step and weave delicately up to join Western Slabs.
3) 4c, 18m. Move round the arete on the left and climb a thin crack. Pass the steep arete and go right to meet Western Slabs. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Kirkus Routes , UK Lonely Leads , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Colin Kirkus' routes , 2021 , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025 , So you wanna climb HVS do ya?

Feedback

User Date Notes
jrose99 6 May Show βeta
βeta: If you go right then left on the first pitch after the start chimney, then be wary of the (very) loose block left of the arete. It will kill your belayer if you pull it off!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you go right then left on the first pitch after the start chimney, then be wary of the (very) loose block left of the arete. It will kill your belayer if you pull it off!
cojoh 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Start is more like 14m left of wall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start is more like 14m left of wall
gali 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block on P1 belay . Main block ok , but smaller block to right is loose
Show beta
βeta: Loose block on P1 belay . Main block ok , but smaller block to right is loose

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 86
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Strapiombo

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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