Rockfax Description
One of the longest routes in The Wye Valley. It takes its time to get going, but the two upper pitches are excellent. Begin just right of Nibelheim.
1) 3c, 18m. Head up short corners and ledges rightwards and then back left between trees and then straight up to a ledge and belay at a tall but wobbly tree. The tree belay can be backed up.
2) 4b, 20m. Move straight up behind the belay through trees and then on up past a groove to a left-leaning thin crack that leads to a ledge with a tree belay.
3) 4b, 17m. Climb up vegetated ground to reach two clean corner/grooves. Take the left-hand corner/groove past a peg and then a short but fine slab past another peg to The Great Ledge.
4) 4a, 30m. A fine pitch with good protection on the harder moves. Starting just left of where pitch three gains the The Great Ledge, take the line of clean rock to a break in the overhangs. Make a tricky sequence up a corner and then head up the wall above to ledges. The wide crack at the back of the ledge leads to a tree belay and abseil point. Do not climb higher than this point. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The North Wall
Ticklists
Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| whenry | 14 Apr, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The wobbly tree for the first pitch belay is more wobbly and very dead. An alternative belay is possible halfway up the second pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The wobbly tree for the first pitch belay is more wobbly and very dead. An alternative belay is possible halfway up the second pitch. |
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| PaulJepson | 19 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Left an offset and quickdraw to backrope to the belay of p2 after an accident on Angel's Girdle (just left of tree belay). If anyone retrieves these we would be grateful for their return. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Left an offset and quickdraw to backrope to the belay of p2 after an accident on Angel's Girdle (just left of tree belay). If anyone retrieves these we would be grateful for their return. |
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| Hewston09 | 17 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Large loose block halfway up second pitch, would do serious damage to your belayer below. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Large loose block halfway up second pitch, would do serious damage to your belayer below. |
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| jon59 | 29 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Lovely new abseil SWR loop at the top of pitch four, thanks BMC. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely new abseil SWR loop at the top of pitch four, thanks BMC. |
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| Webster | 27 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: you can take the obvious overhang on pitch 1 on the left (most people do) instead of going right as per the guidebook. it ups the tech grade but not the overall grade assuming you have small (but not micro) cams | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: you can take the obvious overhang on pitch 1 on the left (most people do) instead of going right as per the guidebook. it ups the tech grade but not the overall grade assuming you have small (but not micro) cams |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Zelda
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)