87m, 3 pitches. 4b, 4a, 4c, 4b
Third pitch crux is good value for VS. Start at the right hand side of the cliff (north wall) and follow the obvious crack line in the corner over the small overhangs. Belay on the first decent tree. continue behind the belay, up a corner groove and over another small roof to a big tree belay again. Now go slightly left then back up right a few metres to near another tree and climb up from there to the base of the obvious slab with the overlap at the top. Moves up the slab past a finger ledge to the overlap are quite tricky and would be very bold but for the peg. Pull over and belay on the great terrace. The 4th pitch looks terrible, better to finish up right hand route (straight up through the obvious v-notch in the overhangs then up the easy chimney), or you can just reach the ground from the great ledge with an abseil on double 50m ropes.
19/9 - 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still claimable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful.Feedback
Third pitch crux is good value for VS. Start at the right hand side of the cliff (north wall) and follow the obvious crack line in the corner over the small overhangs. Belay on the first decent tree. continue behind the belay, up a corner groove and over another small roof to a big tree belay again. Now go slightly left then back up right a few metres to near another tree and climb up from there to the base of the obvious slab with the overlap at the top. Moves up the slab past a finger ledge to the overlap are quite tricky and would be very bold but for the peg. Pull over and belay on the great terrace. The 4th pitch looks terrible, better to finish up right hand route (straight up through the obvious v-notch in the overhangs then up the easy chimney), or you can just reach the ground from the great ledge with an abseil on double 50m ropes.
19/9 - 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still claimable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful.
J. Willson, R. Hazell 03/Feb/1979.
Ticklists
Orange Spot Lower Wye, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Timmy3rdw | 20 Sep |
Show βeta
βeta: 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still climbable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still climbable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful. |
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| Martino90 | 26 Jul |
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βeta: Be mindful of some small loose block on P3. | βeta? |
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βeta: Be mindful of some small loose block on P3. |
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| Uluru | 8 Jul |
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βeta: Just did pitch 1-3. Pitch 4 looked scrappy | βeta? |
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βeta: Just did pitch 1-3. Pitch 4 looked scrappy |
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| Mbowell | 20 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Double ab station 10m left along ledge at top of P3 | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Double ab station 10m left along ledge at top of P3 |
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Route of Interest
Freedom
Grade: VS 4c ***(Wintour's Leap)