Rockfax Description
III, 165m. A tougher option than its neighbour but with more varied climbing, this is a rightly popular line. The bergschrund is straightforward but can be wide in late season. The couloir itself is usually (depending on snow cover) around 55 degrees all the way but steepens gradually for the final 100m. Depending on conditions it may be worth pitching the final section if time allows.
1) 3, 15m. A short pitch of ice to get from the top of the approach couloir to a belay on the right, below the start of the difficulties.
2) 4, 50m. Follow the gully over a series of 70 degree steps to a belay on the left, midway up the snow slope.
3) 5+, 50m. Climb the rest of the snow slope and step up into the icy groove above. Climb this (sometimes thin ice) with rock protection available on the left wall, including some in-situ pegs. A brilliant technical pitch.
4) 3, 25m. Climb the snow slope, up a short 60 degree step and onto another snowy section with a belay on the left beneath a vertical wall.
5) 5, 25m. Tackle the vertical wall, which can often be quite thin, to the final belay on the left.
Descent - Abseil on fixed anchors preferably on 2 x 60m ropes but there are other belays if required. It is possible to continue over moderate mixed ground to reach the summit of the Tacul and descend Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face but, even without the skis, most still abseil. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
III 5+ using the Damilano grading scale. Begins with a snow couloir common to Gabarrou-Albinoni. after 30 to 40 meters a short section of 80 degree ice, then a belay on climbers right. head up the large snow couloir to the Y clipping in situ belay tat. we moved together to reach the first belay unique to Modica-Noury which is 15 meters past the Y on climbers left, up and in the rocks. From here the climbing becomes more interesting. We moved together for about two pitches, nothing too severe and belayed the 15 meters of vertical ice and rock climbing, then moved together again to the top. Last 10 meter pitch of vertical was also nice. Stopped at the beginning of the mixed section before top snowfield as we were not walking off the normal route of Mt. Blanc du Tacul. Rappelled off using in situ belays.

Gilles Modica, Antoine Noury 24/Jun/1979

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

adie84 ??/2017 -
Rhys Macallister 28/Apr/16 AltLd
with liam brophy
liamo333 ?/Apr/16 -

Hard work swimming over the schrund

Graeme Barr 19/Mar/16 AltLd

Didn't finish it as partner got frost nip in his fingers.

DigitalSteak 19/Mar/16 AltLd

Hands got very cold stuck behind a slow party and would warm up so bailed..

Hidden 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk 09/Mar/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 09/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
alpinestar_no1 21/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

Pretty straight fwd in the lower snow gully, but my partner was feeling very sick. Just before the climbing got interesting he sacrificed all of his breakfast on to the snow. Straight after that he lead the first interesting pitch. Then I took the leead up untill just below the last interesting pitch. My partner was feeling very bad, dizzy, and not able to carry on. Shame not to have finished the last part. Pretty easy for TD+

with Jakob Fisker
robgixer 23/Mar/15 AltLd
with Big Lee
Big Lee 23/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Rob made good work of the crux pitch. Climbing felt steady as stepped out and therefore easy to rest. Ab'ed the route.

Hidden 18/Mar/15 AltLd
QuentinSu 11/Mar/15 AltLd
niallsash ?/Jan/15 -
vegarye 31/Mar/14 AltLd
darcan 31/Mar/14 AltLd
with vegarye
BorisVBlade 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Kilian Sutz
Hidden 15/Mar/13 AltLd dnf
clams ?/Jan/13 2nd dnf

I led to start of pitching. Did P1 and P2 then abbed off

with Jim+Mark
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
stevepotter 25/Jan/11 2nd
with Matt
Ben Briggs 23/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 21/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
Matt Bennett 21/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

went up initial gully, regular small slides coming down from snow-patch above, retreated.

with Mr Lopez, Lewis Grey
Oliver Sherman 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Roger Knox
mike.moss ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
Stuart Johnston ?/Feb/08 AltLd
Hidden 08/Nov/07 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/07 AltLd
edek_w 31/Mar/07 -
Hidden ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
sgl 08/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 08/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 05/Feb/06 AltLd

nice climb, the first half goes very quickly. the crux pitch was fun to lead but the short pitch towards the top was also dif to second. 5 hours round trip. most beautiful view of alps from high up in couloir i have yet to see

with chris
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 04/Apr/05 -
Hidden ?/Mar/99 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Feb/98 AltLd
with Mark Harris
crossleysm ??/1995 -
mark-abz 25/Mar/94 AltLd

Last 2 mixed pitches much harder than the rest.

with Bill S
GaryK ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S

Started a bit too early and finished in the dark. Got back to the Abri Simmond bivi as other people were setting out to go to rock routes. An excellent route.

with Andy de Klerk
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