Rockfax Description
A very worthwhile top-pitch up the huge right-leaning corner. High in the grade. Start as for Gates of Eden.
Start at the arete right of the layback crack.
1) 4a, 21m. Climb Gates of Eden until it is possible to work rightwards to a stance at the base of the corner.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the long, wide corner-crack with the crux near the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Hidden 15/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/17 AltLd
Hidden 15/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Tom Seccombe 30/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch.

leland stamper 26/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Too much sea cabbage! 2nd p2 with big pack. Superb but strenuous with sac.

with BU6330
crater 13/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

led p1

with mike
ian hendy 19/Aug/17 AltLd
with Thomas Bennett
evhall 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

p2 after heavy rain - made it a bit more testing

with Liz, goat
lizbarilepage 18/Aug/17 2nd
with Ev Hall, Matt Goater
Fakey Rocks 31/Jul/17 2nd rpt
Jim blackford 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S

First pitch quite awkward an vegetated. Second is rather good

LoneDeranger 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

huge chunk of cliff broke off at belay without much prompt. All but water bottle unscathed

with Tom
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
adamkidson 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Kiddo
Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd
El Swiftos! 27/Jun/17 Lead O/S
jhobbs 22/Jun/17 2nd

P2 only

with Pete Belfield , Charlie chambers
Fakey Rocks 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Went for a quick skinny dip, then Alasdair lead pitch 1, we hauled my bag up, spent quite some time sorting everything at the belay, i set off up p2 using the right wall a fair bit + bridging, good cam 2 + 3,+dmm hex 3, smaller cams would go higher if got, but did layback + jammin moves on some of the top section. Bit loose in places, watch out for gear that might not hold + rip blocks out, warn yr belayer to b ready to step in. Quite sustained, lovely top section. Save a rock 2 for the very top of crack, bomber. Took us around 4hrs!? I faff a lot. We followed what seemed like a rough path to get out but them pesky badgers led us astray/ to their house, + we ended up crawling through thick thickets on our bellys to finally find the badger worming munchies field + freedom. Almost a 50th anniversary climb... 1st ascent Sat 17.6.67! Biven + Cannings.

alasdaircavaye 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Easy first pich to lead. Second very technical for grade. Gear bomber. Bring cams

with Rich
LDJ 13/May/17 Lead
m.powell02 02/May/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

Hidden 02/May/17 AltLd O/S
Gregory Gibas 23/Apr/17 AltLd dog

I led 1st pitch with heavy backpack. Rad led 2nd. I rested twice before the end of 2nd pitch. Really bold finish. Overall a great classic route.

with Rad
minexplorer 23/Apr/17 AltLd

led 2nd pitch.quite strenuous

with gregory
UncleMephisto 19/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

1st pitch is chossy horror. 2nd is still a chossy horror, but gets solid where it matters. A fine adventure.

Hidden 19/Feb/17 AltLd
Adam Hill 15/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
phil456 14/Nov/16 2nd O/S
with Steve Price
steveprice.exmouth 14/Nov/16 Lead

still lovely - great climbing, great gear

with Phil Ellis
Hidden 07/Nov/16 Lead rpt
EllieWoods 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
timreynolds 29/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Sam Husband 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P2, great fun, on the HVS/VS border

with Tom
Luke90 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 11/Aug/16 2nd
G Weatherley 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great second pitch but tough for the grade. Felt significantly harder than Gates of Eden

JackM92 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick Nixon
burto 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with rozzy
BeastintheWest 10/Jul/16 Lead β
with Paul Roberts
John Sheehan 22/Jun/16 2nd
Euge401 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/16 Lead O/S
David Staples 24/Mar/16 AltLd dog
kingholmesy ??/2016 AltLd O/S

Escaped up this after failing on Blubberbeast.

with Colin
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
LauraTejada ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Possibly the hardest 'VS' I've ever led, either that or I'm well out of shape ;) it didn't help not having any large cams or nuts/hexes, and the largest cam we had was used just after the belay! Brilliant climbing on the top pitch though, hard for the grade.

with chris ridgers
Hidden 25/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 03/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd
alice fuller 17/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Phil79 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Delectable 2nd pitch, sustained at the top.

with Steve H
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
owb106 14/Sep/13 -
with Tom Bushell, Caroline Hammond
R0BJ0N 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Lloyd Purdy
steveprice.exmouth 05/Sep/13 AltLd

led P2

with Jeremy Windsor
tombushell ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline Hammond, Oli Brend
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead
Grabtheslab 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

did both pitches well protected on the final slab

mollymcleod 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S


with Leo Grabowski
leo-z-g 21/Jun/13 -

One of the best VS's I've ever climbed. Really nice, hard, well protected moves. Better than Gates of Eden in my opinion

Hidden 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Merlin 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 with a seagull attacking me throughout! The crux on P2 felt hard.

with Dave Tait
BelayBunney 01/Jun/13 Lead dog

Layback on last pitch is tricky and quite sustained. Had to sit in 3/4 up after faffing around for too long and getting tired . Nice climb though - will do it clean next time!!

francois 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Cheese Monkey 06/Jan/13 Lead rpt

Still good! Better technique this time. Lead p2 after partner fell from crux!

with Iain
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 05/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Well good corner climbing, a strong line. Quite why I didnt use the crack for my feet I dont know, made life hard for myself. Be very careful around the right hand end of the small Right traverse on p1, stood on a large block which very nearly came off.

with Ian M
Ian Miller 05/Dec/12 2nd
Bry 16/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, nice climb but a little bit wet on the top section and then started to rain on the top section which made it a little bit more interesting.

with Will
Mike_Hayes 13/Oct/12 Lead
Thunderthighsontheloose 13/Oct/12 2nd

Didn't quite follow the correct line - headed off to the right instead, which probably made it more E1 5b

Motown 13/Oct/12 AltLd
with Luke
waydan 10/Aug/12 2nd

Top pitch has some lovely climbing.

steveprice.exmouth 08/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led p2.Lovely

with Pete Callaghan
timreynolds 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with stuartf
iantoday 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch - very chossy and made a meal of it, top pitch excellent glad I was only 2nding it

Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
SteveoS 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Did first pitch, Doug did second. Hard second pitch.

with Doug Miller
Ed morris 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with chris
Doug miller 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is Hard

Chris.Irwin 13/May/12 2nd dog

Bit of trouble on the second pitch, before realising a lay back was possible

with Ed Morris
rustaldo 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

lead in one long pitch, first half is utter garbage. very chossy, lots of loose rock and very dusty and green. upper half though is tough for VS on a nicely cut corner. 1 star for 1 section of good climbing and good rock. felt harder than gates of eden.

Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
Sarah Welsh 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
mark schramm 12/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Sarah W
Marti999 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Marti
Dave 88 06/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Did I ever pick a winner! Fantastic bridging up a solid corner. Plenty of gear if you want it (cams). Don't layback it unless you have forearms like popeye! Finished in the dark (shock!), and had to ab for a cam that I placed badly. NOTE: 1st belay pegs are infact one mullered rusty peg. Plenty of placements to use instead though.

minexplorer 06/Dec/11 AltLd

both pitches great. led the 1st dave led the top.fairly strong moves at top but there are holds on both the slab an the left wall.belay pegs long rusted away belay 10ft higher

with dave88
John Tanner 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
gidmord 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Smith, John Tanner
Matt Smith 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

P1, second pitch is amazing.

Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead
JackHatton 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with richy mardell
Motown 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Richy
jcook1980 06/Aug/11 AltLd
Homes 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Jonny C
mark schramm 05/Aug/11 AltLd
with tom mason
DCIGadget 03/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Mark led 1st pitch, tim 2nd. very much enjoyed though finding our way out at the top was a bit difficult

mark schramm 03/Aug/11 AltLd
timreynolds 03/Aug/11 AltLd
thomb 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

very hard in the grade, particularly scary with a skeletal rack!

with Tom Syrett
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
jameshiggins 23/May/11 Lead
with Neil Adams
Sophie Nunn 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 22/May/11 2nd

Done carrying my rack and rucksack to avoid scrambling!

TiffTiff 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

led p2

with Ceri, Sophie
Okecroak 03/May/11 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 03/May/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
rob1 22/Apr/11 AltLd
little_tammy 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
francois 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Much easier in the dry! Nice route.

with Tammy
JulesClimbs 14/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 12/Apr/11 Lead
with Emgrant
brynmays 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch, the crux was quite fun as there wasnt to many placements.

kyebrooks 03/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
NathanC 1994 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Awsome Climb, Some Really Tough Moves But Defintely Worth Doing It :D

kyebrooks 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Davebryant ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown
crimpy69 ?/Apr/11 AltLd

found crux tricky, plenty of cam protection had no cams...bit scarry!

mark schramm 28/Oct/10 AltLd

Lead top pitch - lovely.

with steve P
Steve Woollard 02/Oct/10 Lead

I also think it's better than Gates of Eden

Haytor_Haggis 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
justin burgoyne 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
saz_b 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, dugs took second. v loose blocks at top of first pitch. Nice second pitch, enjoyed the bridging!

with harry b, Dugald
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd rpt
francois 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Second pitch only as we abbed off into the stance.

with Chawn
nickdonohue ??/2010 Lead
with Steve ?
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S
twright180 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/09 AltLd
RobSteere 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
rockferret 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Nice climb, plenty of protection, although I did jam a friend in and have to ab-off to get it back.

with Tony
Popkids 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Martin
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead
James Mitchelmore 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
manwithacam 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Very cold and windy. Bit of a fight.

with Chippy & Mr Mantel
nick99 ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 02/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Justin T 13/Aug/07 Lead
with Wifey
Justin T 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Clara
Justin T 29/May/07 Lead rpt
with Martin
Okecroak 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 22/Apr/07 AltLd
with Dave R.
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt

Hard top pitch, top of the grade, nice climb!

with Wifey & Martin
climber sim ??/2007 -
AJH 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Crispin
chris j 30/May/06 Lead O/S

Top pitch only

with Chawn
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead O/S
richardr ?/May/06 -
Jon Evans 10/Mar/06 AltLd

great climb

with Mike
Hidden 19/Jun/05 AltLd
Okecroak 09/Mar/03 AltLd
Ben1983 ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
AJH ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with Henk
John Andrew Simpson ??/1998 2nd O/S
with Damien Elsdon
Nick Biven ??/1996 Lead O/S

Pulled a huge hold off the left wall near the top which was a bit exciting

with Rich Whitwell
colin milton 10/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton and s blagdon
Hidden 25/Apr/92 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1990 -
RichardMc 19/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hidden ?/Nov/84 -
Hidden 25/Sep/83 Lead O/S
Mike C 09/Mar/82 Lead

First pitch only

with Chris Davis
Ken Taylor 28/Feb/82 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
mark-abz ?/Feb/81 Lead
with Andy W
Steve Woollard ??/1981 Lead
Mike C 18/Jun/78 Lead

Variation on first pitch only

with Dave Hyde
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set