2 pitches. 4c,5b. Airy climbing up the prow with a crucial stretch to gain a great jug on the second pitch. Short lived but committing and fun.

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
markfromstoke 14 May 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 14 May Lead O/S
AliceJS 26 Feb 2nd
myrddinmuse 26 Feb Lead O/S Awesome feeling to grab that jug! What a lovely sequence, just wish it was longer! Protection was great, too. One long pitch.
Awesome feeling to grab that jug! What a lovely sequence, just wish it was longer! Protection was great, too. One long pitch.
Charlie Aird-Rossiter 26 Feb 2nd
Dave Cundy ?? -
whoisjosh 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog I led first pitch clean and Chris led the second which a fell on a couple of times
with Chris
I led first pitch clean and Chris led the second which a fell on a couple of times
with Chris
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom Brierley 20 May, 2018 Lead rpt
with karenhh
with karenhh
cem 10 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Pero 10 May, 2018 2nd
Theeni 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with kenneM
with kenneM
kenneM 2 Sep, 2017 2nd rpt
with Theeni
with Theeni
No? Yes! 22 Aug, 2017 Lead
with Bern
with Bern
hfotheri 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with arjun
with arjun
Andrew Sloan 4 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Nice climbing. Good friction for limestone. Microwire protection adequate for top section. Climbed as one pitch. Easier than Wurlitzer.
with pete
Nice climbing. Good friction for limestone. Microwire protection adequate for top section. Climbed as one pitch. Easier than Wurlitzer.
with pete
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
BenCollis 18 May, 2017 2nd
Hidden 18 Mar, 2017 TR O/S
Chris Harbour 11 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with James Smith, d.heard, KatePG, WillAndrew
with James Smith, d.heard, KatePG, WillAndrew
KatePG 11 Mar, 2017 2nd
WillAndrew 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
countchalkula 13 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Good. Loved this route. Good holds if you know where they are. Got a couple of little wires in once I got to jug and equalized with a sliding x, which felt pretty good actually. Not as bold as the guide would have you believe.
Good. Loved this route. Good holds if you know where they are. Got a couple of little wires in once I got to jug and equalized with a sliding x, which felt pretty good actually. Not as bold as the guide would have you believe.
Billg 6 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Nice route. The guidebook comments about there being no gear in the upper half are nonsense. There's a good wire above your head on the reach to the jug.
with Will Calvert
Nice route. The guidebook comments about there being no gear in the upper half are nonsense. There's a good wire above your head on the reach to the jug.
with Will Calvert
julesmckim 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Great position, fun climbing on good rock and good gear. Soft for E2, perhaps E1
with Rob Smart
Great position, fun climbing on good rock and good gear. Soft for E2, perhaps E1
with Rob Smart
AlexRenshaw 2 Oct, 2016 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
thompsettjack 23 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
kenneM 23 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with Mike
with Mike
shazza65 16 Aug, 2016 2nd β lovely moves bumping up the arete in the top section
lovely moves bumping up the arete in the top section
BenNorman 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Felt casual, awesome moves and position at the top!
Felt casual, awesome moves and position at the top!
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 2nd dog
Luke90 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S E1 for the tall, E2 for the short? I could reach the jug easily so didn't feel too tough.
E1 for the tall, E2 for the short? I could reach the jug easily so didn't feel too tough.
valentinesbabe 18 Jun, 2016 TR dog Lovely climb. Watched Charley lead it from above so could see where the jug was (it isn't obvious from below). Climbed in good style up to the reachy move to the jug then popped off the balancy reach. If you're short its a pretty technical and committing move and would say it would definitely be E2 on lead as you'd have to place fiddly gear or move up without gear and place it once you've got the jug (which onsite you wouldn't necessarily find!). All in all a lovely climb and I was pleased to get it after only a couple of goes and stayed on route.
Lovely climb. Watched Charley lead it from above so could see where the jug was (it isn't obvious from below). Climbed in good style up to the reachy move to the jug then popped off the balancy reach. If you're short its a pretty technical and committing move and would say it would definitely be E2 on lead as you'd have to place fiddly gear or move up without gear and place it once you've got the jug (which onsite you wouldn't necessarily find!). All in all a lovely climb and I was pleased to get it after only a couple of goes and stayed on route.
charley 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Really nice moves, brilliant climb. The "jug" is easy to reach if you're tall. E1?
Really nice moves, brilliant climb. The "jug" is easy to reach if you're tall. E1?
ciderspider 18 Jun, 2016 2nd dog
with charley
with charley
Tithe Technique 18 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
luke glaister 26 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S In one pitch. First and last route of the night. Rain stopped play. Really good route tho and bommer gear before the run-out. Move off the block is good to. Never thought I'd be warming up on soft e2s a year ago mind. Happy days.
In one pitch. First and last route of the night. Rain stopped play. Really good route tho and bommer gear before the run-out. Move off the block is good to. Never thought I'd be warming up on soft e2s a year ago mind. Happy days.
kenneM 31 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Chris
with Chris
Tom Brierley 25 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with karenhh
with karenhh
BStar 18 Dec, 2015 - Shunted up it, quite strenuous
with Shunty McShunt
Shunted up it, quite strenuous
with Shunty McShunt
Steve Lewis 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Josh Lewis 17 Oct, 2015 2nd β
Hidden 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Tom Brierley 19 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with karenhh
with karenhh
LJKing 12 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S After having just led Never Say Goodbye, after 20 years of waiting, I was emotionally drained by the time I had to second this, so found it hard! I suspect its okay really!
with Paul Clarkson
After having just led Never Say Goodbye, after 20 years of waiting, I was emotionally drained by the time I had to second this, so found it hard! I suspect its okay really!
with Paul Clarkson
Ian Stirrups 4 Sep, 2015 Lead The bit after the pedestal seems to be as much the crux as the move for the big jug
with Sue
The bit after the pedestal seems to be as much the crux as the move for the big jug
with Sue
edjenkins 18 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 18 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15 Aug, 2015 2nd
bpmclimb 15 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt
Tom Brierley 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S More gear than i was expecting, nice little one.
with karenhh
More gear than i was expecting, nice little one.
with karenhh
AngelaC 6 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Paul Wood, Rick Sewards
with Paul Wood, Rick Sewards
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Carl Watkins 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Stanners 17 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S perfect entertainment in the sun. P2. (Andy did p1 as for butterfly)
perfect entertainment in the sun. P2. (Andy did p1 as for butterfly)
kenneM 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant route - moves no harder than 5b but gear at top is fiddly to place.
with Chris
Brilliant route - moves no harder than 5b but gear at top is fiddly to place.
with Chris
simonf 2 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
localboy 2 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Definitely dogged, but that's me as the climb was good.
Definitely dogged, but that's me as the climb was good.
Dizz 1 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Dave Frost
with Dave Frost
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
alastairbegley 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Really enjoyable route, lead as one pitch. Felt more like E1.
with Jason
Really enjoyable route, lead as one pitch. Felt more like E1.
with Jason
ian bryant ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 Lead
JoeWilliams 26 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with J Lewis
with J Lewis
JoeWilliams 23 Jul, 2014 Lead β
with J Lewis
with J Lewis
AlexRenshaw 29 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
Joe Innes 25 May, 2014 Solo Great climbing!
Great climbing!
Ricky Rocks 21 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Paul_southgate68 16 May, 2014 Lead O/S Haha pleased to get this. Had to have a word with myself to commit, cool beans.
Haha pleased to get this. Had to have a word with myself to commit, cool beans.
Mike Goldthorp 18 Mar, 2014 Solo rpt Great fun! Move to the jug is well exciting!
with Rose Hall
Great fun! Move to the jug is well exciting!
with Rose Hall
Mike Goldthorp 13 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Great little route, classy moves up to the beaut jug, and really exciting positions!
with brices
Great little route, classy moves up to the beaut jug, and really exciting positions!
with brices
brices 13 Mar, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 8 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Mar, 2014 TR O/S
nniff 1 Sep, 2013 Lead
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 2nd rpt
ben.richards 11 Aug, 2013 2nd dog
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S P2. Some loose blocks on the left side.
P2. Some loose blocks on the left side.
Alex Winter 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Foot pinged off going for the top, but managed to catch myself on a jug.
with Will A
Foot pinged off going for the top, but managed to catch myself on a jug.
with Will A
Didymus 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Remo
with Remo
Hooo 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 of Butterfly as I couldn't face battling the veg on the official line. P2 is no problem on second, the difficulty is purely psychological. 5a max.
Led P1 of Butterfly as I couldn't face battling the veg on the official line. P2 is no problem on second, the difficulty is purely psychological. 5a max.
Chris Sieradzki 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. Soft E2 and soft 5b. The crux just little bit commiting. For taller climber thats 5a max. Though nice and exposed climb.
with Hooo
Led P2. Soft E2 and soft 5b. The crux just little bit commiting. For taller climber thats 5a max. Though nice and exposed climb.
with Hooo
steveb2006 4 Jul, 2013 Lead
mes32 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S 1st pitch.
with Wilki
1st pitch.
with Wilki
Mistee 5 May, 2013 AltLd β Lead the first pitch which is easy - made a better stab at the second pitch than the last time I was here - next time I will get that last bulge cleanly.
Lead the first pitch which is easy - made a better stab at the second pitch than the last time I was here - next time I will get that last bulge cleanly.
Hidden 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
evhall 25 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S definitely harder than an E1...
with colin
definitely harder than an E1...
with colin
DrewWilkins 23 Feb, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 2 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
with ollie_e
with ollie_e
jwhereat 2 Jan, 2013 2nd dog
ianto ??, 2013 -
waynekinrade ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Nov, 2012 Lead rpt
Mistee 3 Nov, 2012 2nd dog Rock was very cold but no excuses - should have done better. Will get it clean next time.
Rock was very cold but no excuses - should have done better. Will get it clean next time.
thomb 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Brilliant route, short but really enjoyable. Very easy for E2, as long as you don't mind going a few feet above your last gear.
with Matt
Brilliant route, short but really enjoyable. Very easy for E2, as long as you don't mind going a few feet above your last gear.
with Matt
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Dave89 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Naomi D, Baby D
with Naomi D, Baby D
stevethomas 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Nick
with Nick
Mistee 24 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines 2 Jun, 2012 Lead
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd O/S
AJM 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S Build a bomb shelter, then do a nice little sequence above it. I thought it was quite easy but my second found it a lot harder - sequences are a bit morpho.
with AllyBee
Build a bomb shelter, then do a nice little sequence above it. I thought it was quite easy but my second found it a lot harder - sequences are a bit morpho.
with AllyBee
Pete Rigby 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Merlin March
with Merlin March
clams ?Mar, 2012 2nd
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
s.c.white 1 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
with mike thomas, TimAshlin
with mike thomas, TimAshlin
Hidden 1 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
benkelsey 5 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S not E2.. hvs with a nice move at the top.
with remus
not E2.. hvs with a nice move at the top.
with remus
Hidden 5 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
grp 1 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S thought it was getting desperate but the i saw the massive hold hiding in front of my face
thought it was getting desperate but the i saw the massive hold hiding in front of my face
groliver26 1 Jun, 2011 2nd
jon_ridley 1 Jun, 2011 2nd dog Full spread on crux move, fell, easy when I tried again. Damn.
Full spread on crux move, fell, easy when I tried again. Damn.
simeclimb68 7 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Brilliant route
with Dylan Burgess
Brilliant route
with Dylan Burgess
DrGav 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Dave led the 5b pitch. Very good moves on clean rough rock around the arete, committing but above good gear. First pitch needs more traffic.
with Pan Ron
Dave led the 5b pitch. Very good moves on clean rough rock around the arete, committing but above good gear. First pitch needs more traffic.
with Pan Ron
aged_ape 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Pete
with Pete
chris wyatt 8 Apr, 2011 Lead Could not find the jug as I'm too vertically challenged so wondered round the corner, snapped a hold and had some airtime. Got back on at the top of the pedestal and climbed practically the whole pitch OK using the jug. Guess the syle of ascent is open to interpretation. Could not see a micro wire - just a rock scar!
with steve tree
Could not find the jug as I'm too vertically challenged so wondered round the corner, snapped a hold and had some airtime. Got back on at the top of the pedestal and climbed practically the whole pitch OK using the jug. Guess the syle of ascent is open to interpretation. Could not see a micro wire - just a rock scar!
with steve tree
nniff 27 Mar, 2011 AltLd
Tim Sparrow 27 Mar, 2011 AltLd Guidebook makes a bit of a fuss - no gear needed after the jug!
with nniff
Guidebook makes a bit of a fuss - no gear needed after the jug!
with nniff
djking1983 16 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Didn't realise I was on an e2 as my second read the guide and looked at the line on the topo and was like yeah up the arête. I thought well feels a bit hard and exposed but done it well. Good climb.
with Steve Knaggs
Didn't realise I was on an e2 as my second read the guide and looked at the line on the topo and was like yeah up the arête. I thought well feels a bit hard and exposed but done it well. Good climb.
with Steve Knaggs
Hidden 15 Mar, 2011 2nd β
bpmclimb 15 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
with hms
with hms
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead dog
Sam W 18 Sep, 2010 Lead Very safe, despite how the guidebook makes it sound
Very safe, despite how the guidebook makes it sound
Hidden 18 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
andy dunn 28 Aug, 2010 2nd
bennevis 10 Jun, 2010 TR
with Barry
with Barry
tom.e 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
just one more 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
tobydunford 3 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with James
with James
stvredmond 6 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S first time on E2 country. really enjoyable. good do with growing a few inches to make doing for the jug less daunting
with Trefo
first time on E2 country. really enjoyable. good do with growing a few inches to make doing for the jug less daunting
with Trefo
Trefo 6 Feb, 2010 Lead rpt Awesome route up the arete.
Awesome route up the arete.
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
KRB 29 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Sneaked this one halfway through Ollie's (age 10) brilliant on-sight lead of Moth. Good moves in a good position. Looks like it should be quite photogenic had I bothered to bring my camera.
with Oliver Bridges
Sneaked this one halfway through Ollie's (age 10) brilliant on-sight lead of Moth. Good moves in a good position. Looks like it should be quite photogenic had I bothered to bring my camera.
with Oliver Bridges
Trefo 10 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant moves. Fantastic gear-not that bold really.Crux is at the bottom moving up from standing on the pillar, certainly not reaching to grab the jug at the top, thats unless your a real short arse!
with chris james
Brilliant moves. Fantastic gear-not that bold really.Crux is at the bottom moving up from standing on the pillar, certainly not reaching to grab the jug at the top, thats unless your a real short arse!
with chris james
JamesColeman ?Sep, 2009 Lead RP
with Alan
with Alan
Hidden 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
simonf 30 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with raingod
with raingod
Dan_Carroll 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S would be soft for an E1. nice route but never E2.
with Rebecca Holland
would be soft for an E1. nice route but never E2.
with Rebecca Holland
Hidden 16 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
3 Names 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2009 2nd
bevsie 31 May, 2009 2nd dog Couldnt hang on going for the jug/getting micro wire out from beside! Nice route
with M Ayes
Couldnt hang on going for the jug/getting micro wire out from beside! Nice route
with M Ayes
The Reaper 2 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 14 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S move felt about 5c to me, a bit go-ey but good gear a couple of metres below you
move felt about 5c to me, a bit go-ey but good gear a couple of metres below you
Marti999 12 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Jan, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd
martinazando 19 Oct, 2008 2nd
with al99
with al99
al99 19 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S Much more gear than the guide book makes out, with a good micro wire just by the jug. Easy at the E2 grade although I thought it was technically quite hard for a 5b!
Much more gear than the guide book makes out, with a good micro wire just by the jug. Easy at the E2 grade although I thought it was technically quite hard for a 5b!
pezzerrr 10 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?Sep, 2008 2nd
with Side Show
with Side Show
gdb4060 30 Jul, 2008 Lead
with Niki
with Niki
Mark Davies PK 23 Jul, 2008 Lead β Definately not e2 - unless you are very short and have no micro wires! A good route though with some good moves.
with Fiend
Definately not e2 - unless you are very short and have no micro wires! A good route though with some good moves.
with Fiend
Huntlyfiddler 9 Jun, 2008 2nd
bpmclimb 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Didn't seem as bold as the guidebook said.
Didn't seem as bold as the guidebook said.
dan gibson 8 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Bristoldave 16 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Thomas
with Thomas
deklan ?Feb, 2008 TR
saz_b ??, 2008 -
maybe_si 27 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with jamie
with jamie
tcn_2002 25 Oct, 2007 Lead
Hidden 28 May, 2007 Lead
Circus 16 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with Will Russell
with Will Russell
Stefan Kruger 1 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S A very nice route, a bit bold but not nearly to the extent eluded to by the guide book write-up. It's getting harder to fit in post-work climbing due to the fading light.
with Paul Wood
A very nice route, a bit bold but not nearly to the extent eluded to by the guide book write-up. It's getting harder to fit in post-work climbing due to the fading light.
with Paul Wood
Hidden ?May, 2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
markysums ??, 2003 Lead
simon kimber ??, 2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
with Tony Penning
simon kimber ??, 2002 Lead
Hidden 1 Sep, 2001 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2000 AltLd
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??, 2000 Lead Really nice and not too bold.
Really nice and not too bold.
mikej 8 Jun, 1992 2nd
with Bill Turner
with Bill Turner
JimR ??, 1990 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set