Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
The final moves are goey and spectacular. Start as for Butterfly.
1) 4a, 12m. Butterfly pitch 1.
2) 5b, 12m. From the top of the pillar make a move left and follow the rib in its entirety. The final section above the break is committing but over quickly. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4c,5b. Airy climbing up the prow with a crucial stretch to gain a great jug on the second pitch. Short lived but committing and fun.
Becky's ticklist , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 24 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson |
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Gary Gibson | 26 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent g | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent g |
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BarwoodP | 7 May, 2023 |
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βeta: First E2 and skipped E1 grade. Even E numbers now onto E4! | βeta? | |
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βeta: First E2 and skipped E1 grade. Even E numbers now onto E4! |
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BarwoodP | 30 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: amazing climb 2 star for sure | ||
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βeta: amazing climb 2 star for sure |
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NCrossingham | 15 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Definitely soft for E2 if you have a big span | ||
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βeta: Definitely soft for E2 if you have a big span |
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Ed Thomsett | 9 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Big TV sized block that you pull round off the ledge flexes a lot. Wouldn't put gear in it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big TV sized block that you pull round off the ledge flexes a lot. Wouldn't put gear in it. |
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Mattress | 24 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Good #1 wire, head-height on your right, once your hands are on the jug - makes the committing moves feel much more reasonable. | ||
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βeta: Good #1 wire, head-height on your right, once your hands are on the jug - makes the committing moves feel much more reasonable. |
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ClimbingNut | 9 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: When all seems lost nere the top... Gun for the big hold! | ||
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βeta: When all seems lost nere the top... Gun for the big hold! |
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Grade: E2 6a ***
(Ellwood)