Rockfax Description
An excellent, sustained wall-pitch with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang.
Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct line up the slab right of Saxon with tricky protection. Start on a large boulder left of the Saxon start and pull strenuously throught the overhang into the break at 4m (it is possible to protect this section after the first move is made). Continue direct for 10-15m before pulling up to and onto the obvious sloping ledge. Move to the left end of this and finish direct.

R Edwards, M Edwards 17/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Hidden 29/Aug/17 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Ian MK 18/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Bang tidy!

with Anna
The Grist 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S

On Tom's gear. Fun climb.

Ben1983 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
dinodinosaur 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with JonesE
JonesE 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this a lot, good moves and continuous interest. A bit like welsh slate but with pockets instead of edges.

SimonWooden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Pre-placed runner above start and top roped this. I still thought E1 above this with mostly less than bomber gear.

with Mark Lewis
melv 04/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
evhall 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

A really brilliant route 3 stars all day

with Mike B
Jess Carr 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Found gear hard to place in the middle of the route but breezed the climbing, feet very painful when I reached the top! New shoes :b

with Rich Pollard
Martin Haworth 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 03/Jun/17 2nd O/S

A hard unprotected start. Lovely climbing. I think this route is much more deserving of the 'top 50' accolade than Saxon.

Hidden 20/May/17 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 20/May/17 2nd rpt
with JakeB.
Lenny 18/May/17 Lead O/S
with Lada Lukinić
Alison Cairns 18/May/17 2nd rpt
with Maria
Dave Almond 15/May/17 Lead O/S

Bmc International meet

with Joni Kuusenmaki
Alice Thompson ?/May/17 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 20/Apr/17 2nd rpt

Had forgotten the bouldery start. Crux moves are pleasing. A great route.

manbat 20/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Glad to have led this and felt comfortable and able to enoy the climbing after feeling so sketchy on the previous two routes of the day. It is a lovely route, pleasurable climbing, just enough gear. Great crux move rocking onto the ledge. Girding oneself for pulling off the ground in never appealing though!

mariannekhoo 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Easy climbing apart from a few bold moves at the crux - used a heel hook instead of mantling the narrow ledge. Felt about the same as Saxon.

with Zoë
G Weatherley 14/Apr/17 Lead
with Ed Walker
Jess patel 12/Apr/17 2nd
with tim ashlin, mike thomas
Hidden 12/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 11/Apr/17 2nd
DanChad 11/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/17 Lead O/S
ClimbingAlex 14/Jan/17 Lead O/S

First E1! Climbing felt pretty steady after the initial boulder problem. Really pleased with this!

with Matt
Matt Magecha 14/Jan/17 2nd

Awesome climb for my first E1! fun little bouldering style problem to start with!

with Alex
mutt ??/2017 -
alanblyth 31/Oct/16 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 31/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
G Weatherley 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Ed Walker
JoeCoxson 19/Jul/16 Lead rpt
omaskrey 19/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Cecilewannaclimb 11/Jul/16 Lead
with Matt, Mike C
Tom McCabe 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S

After the rain cleared. Very good positive climbing on an impressive slab. Hard first move with a brassie to protect.

JRJones 15/Jun/16 2nd O/S
amccann 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
lcullum7 15/Jun/16 2nd O/S
kyaizawa 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
benkelsey 14/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Total romp and Much easier than shield

harold walmsley 23/May/16 2nd rpt

Hard start but steady after.

with Chris Calow
dbrooks 15/May/16 Lead O/S

one of the best E1s in Cornwall?

with gidmord
gidmord 15/May/16 2nd O/S
with dbrooks
islandlynx 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Very nice route. managed to get a wee nut in to protect the first move. Seems i did the crux slightly differently by hand traversing and using a heel-hook instead of a mantle. Missed the last 2 meters by going too far left.

with Amy
AmyAmy 12/Apr/16 2nd
Spearos ?/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Riggo
poeter210 25/Oct/15 Lead dog

stupid foot slip on a badly chosen hold, very glad not to fall off the crux which was a good deal higher above the gear!

Hidden 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
manbat 15/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Great route!

Lumbering Oaf 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Bouldery start, steady climbing throughout. Nice crux higher up. Good pro all the way.

Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Graham Booth 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Felt about the same grade as as Saxon, just fiddly gear

Hidden 08/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
jonleighton 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Good route, scary start!

Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
supersouthward 02/Aug/15 -


with Selen Thyssen
Hidden 02/Aug/15 -
Hidden 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Wendy 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. I found the gear placements a lot harder than saxon

Tom Schofield-Graham 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
Jack Porteous 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Alison Cairns 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Excellent route, a long held ambition. Did start of Saxon just to right to avoid greasy boulder problem. Steady climbing to traverse crack tho gear tricky to find, then went too far left and nearly fell off doing really hard mantle to get stood up! Exciting.

with Andy
shaunhumphreys 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice introduction to cornwall

Matt77 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. The bouldery start wasn't as hard as it looked. Exciting mantelshelf crux.

RyanOsborne 05/Jul/15 -
benkelsey 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S

No hard moves, good gear, felt soft.

with Shaun Humphreys
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
tim.fairhall 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tommy
saxdonkey 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
beni 20/Jun/15 2nd
JoeCoxson 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route on an awesome wall. Protection is spaced but never really run out,

Wendy Watthews 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Harder than thane, accidentally fot traversed the hand traverse

with Beni
lukegorman 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Rachel S 28/May/15 2nd
with Cal
HimTiggins 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
Mike_Hayes 20/May/15 Lead O/S
with dan parkes
Robin Woodward 17/May/15 Lead rpt

Lovely as always, but seem to go about the main crux differently each time. Protection is tricky, but generally there, and the holds keep coming.

Jelly Mould Surfer 13/May/15 2nd O/S

A top pitch

Si ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant. Big swell

mikeyjbs 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
beni ??/2015 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route, never too hard but with interesting climbing all the way to the top

with Nick Eaton
eel 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ted
richiebongo 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Plenty of gear.

with Jon Didymus
Didymus 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
mountaingoatgirl 27/Jul/14 2nd
with John C, Steve C
tash 27/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 08/Jul/14 Lead
oddtoast 08/Jul/14 2nd

Incredible! My best 5b climbing by a long way, a dance not a battle :p

with Gav
gowla 01/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Andy, Alex Burns
hotfeet 12/Jun/14 Lead

Pure pleasure.

Jenny Dart ?/Jun/14 2nd
Robin Woodward ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/May/14 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 28/May/14 Lead
mike lawrence? 26/May/14 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
HIGHTOWER 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Wow.... Just wow.

with Jocky
Sophie Nunn 07/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 07/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 23/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
Justin T 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Crispin
Hidden ?/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/13 2nd
AndyMcCoy 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Bill
Graham Westbrook 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

mutt 12/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead
David Sherratt 08/Aug/13 2nd
Tom Livingstone 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S

What delightful climbing. Never too hard, always enjoyable and constantly thought-provoking. I can imagine it's a bit exciting on the sharp end though.

mattkemp70 ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Westy
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/13 Lead
with Astrid Saxby, Solly Kemball Dorey
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 Lead

Amazing route!

Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 2nd
rurp 29/May/13 TR O/S

balancy and nice on shunt

morganator 17/May/13 Lead

Pleasant. Thin gear

with International Meet Guest
Wil Treasure 17/May/13 2nd
with Davor
Simon Alden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
Hidden 04/May/13 TR
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 2nd
with BMC international meet
Dilwat 02/Apr/13 Lead rpt

I've been wanting to lead this since seconding the route with nick. Lived up to all my expectations.

with dready
dready 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S

wow so good!

with dillwat
dprctr 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Ended up mantling onto the ledge. Scary and not easy, or the easiest way of doing it. Standard E1 if you do it correctly I reckon. Fairly steady with loads of gear and no hands rests.

with Fiona McFarlane, Robert Dufton
rd20 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S

David led

with Fiona
Fiona McFarlane ?/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Dave proctor, Robert Dufton
cymjt ??/2013 -
burto 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Martin Cooper 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S

5a/b but run out

with Nick
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
stuart34 08/Sep/12 2nd
s.c.white 08/Sep/12 -
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Martin Cooper
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead
jgordon75 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Top end E1 due to having to think to get good gear

The_Boy_ODwyer 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
gowla 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Paddy Mitton, Alex Burns
paddymitton ?/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Jen Crook 27/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead
Jim Slater 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the crux and then it started to rain so backed off.

HowieB 24/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Very good, difficult to know exactly where it goes though. Top end e1.

jezb1 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Tricky spaced gear but the holds keep on coming. Loved it

The Ivanator 06/Jun/12 2nd RP

Slipped off the tricky starting moves first time, clean ground up at second attempt. A fantastic route, some great sequences and a beautiful setting.

with Jez
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
pete johnson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Lun
monsteratt 06/May/12 2nd O/S

Start seemed fairly steady at the start then some tricky moves to get up to a hand rail.

with Chris Goddard
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Paul ablitt 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
cem 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Way superior to the over-hyped Saxon.

Dave Rumney 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Tanya Milner
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
andybenham 26/Nov/11 2nd rpt
conorjclarke 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Rhona Barr
domskezz 22/Sep/11 Lead

Fantastic route enjoyed it more than Saxon.

with Jamma
Rich Guest 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Might have strayed off route slightly leftwards... Amazing rock and brilliant climbing though. Gear is iffy and sparse but the holds are surprisingly better than it appears from below.

Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Marti
Cheese Monkey 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Lovely tricky moves

with Phil, Paul
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Bob Peters ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
Graham Atkins 25/Jun/11 2nd
richsmithinbristol 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Superb climbing

JulesV 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dizz 22/Jun/11 2nd

finished up In the gallery.

with Richard S
Em66 03/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Pippa 30/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 28/Apr/11 2nd
cem 28/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Charles Mason, Paul Bolton
victim of mathematics 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superfantastic. The start was easier than expected, but getting onto the juggy ledge was exciting!

crossdressingrodney 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S


Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Apr/11 2nd

Mike managed to get a surprising amount of good protection on this route (including a cam dropped by a party that had just climbed Saxon). The superb 1-finger pull to get established on the ledge 2/3 of the way up felt like the crux.

mtempest 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
jchenoweth 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf
daviesxxx ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
andybenham 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

very ...ahem ...memorable

Hidden 20/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
david morse 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris todd
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead
colkurtz 02/Sep/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Nel Tindale 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Percy
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
jak.kelly 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Lacey 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Nel Tindale
Dilwat 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue ?/Jul/10 Lead

fantastic face climbing

Different Steve 12/May/10 Lead rpt
with Luis Silva
verticon 12/May/10 Lead O/S

Excellent route with delicate face climbing and some hidden holds. I only managed to place about six pieces of protection for the whole pitch (offset nuts and small cams). The final belay on the preplaced rope (that we used for the abseil)

with Craig Harwood
Dave Turnbull, BMC 07/May/10 Lead
with Becky McGovern
Huntlyfiddler 11/Apr/10 2nd
bpmclimb 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
jon thompson27 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with simon mayell
rockferret 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Fantastic route. Pete did an excellent job of protecting it.

with Pete
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Swotson 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/09 -
with SF
climber130887 15/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with luke hunt
datoon 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with S
centurion05 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Wandered all over in search for gear. Have repeated a few times now and it actually goes pretty direct! Rough juggy rock and technical non-pumpy style on this cliff are both superb.

with Simon Denison
KRB 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Bridges
chrissloan84 07/Apr/07 2nd
with AJM
Tim Sparrow ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Geoff Thomas
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Different Steve 17/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Steve Gray
pezzerrr 22/Sep/04 Lead O/S
The Reaper 28/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
cem 11/Apr/04 2nd rpt
Macca_7 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S

What a route far better than saxon

cem 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Sally Dipple
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Samuel P 02/Mar/03 2nd
with Luke
andy_pemberton ??/2003 Lead
goi.ashmore 24/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Ian JL ??/2001 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

A great route. The only soft touch in Cornwall?

Bullybones ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 2nd O/S
Roget 15/Aug/99 Solo O/S
lost.arrow 09/Aug/99 Lead
with Paul Palfreyman, Gill Heartly
Hidden 17/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Jul/95 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Andy Say 02/Jun/94 Solo O/S
3 Names ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Brian Parker
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Eduardo Martinez 29/Dec/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
rogerskews 30/May/91 -
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden 06/Sep/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/90 Lead
daviesxxx ??/1988 -
Neil R 24/May/87 2nd
with Ian
Greg Cunningham ??/1984 Lead
with caroline lee
Hidden ?/May/82 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1978 -
with FMC
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High E2
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Low E1
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Votes cast 73
High 5c
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Low 5b
High 5a
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Votes cast 71
Votes cast 71
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