UKC

50m.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous climb that follows a subtle line of weakness up the smooth-looking main face. Described here with the direct finish - the original line traversed to the stance on The Shield and finished up the wall above on the left. The climb is both intimidating and amenable in equal measure. Start next to the house-sized boulder. Boulder up to the break (either using the crack between the boulder and the wall, or the wall just to the left of the boulder). Move along the break to a niche. Carry on leftwards up a crack until moves straight up gain good holds at the start of a shallow left leading depression. Follow this until a move up reaches a horizontal finger-crack. Move right and climb direct to a flake belay. Scramble off left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , HVS Cornwall , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Kernow , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cornwall - October 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
belay bunny turned bad 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: There is now a stake at the top of the grass slope which we used to an to the top of the route and then set up to an to the base.
Show beta
βeta: There is now a stake at the top of the grass slope which we used to an to the top of the route and then set up to an to the base.
Euan Todd 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Worth fixing an ab rope for the top out, as the slope is pretty loose and slippery.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth fixing an ab rope for the top out, as the slope is pretty loose and slippery.

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 133
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queen of the May

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Vellan Head Area)

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